slayer544 Posted September 20, 2005 Report Share Posted September 20, 2005 .....amazing. I think i speak for everyone when i say thank you!!!!! can't wait to get on this project! Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted September 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2005 So if i put in that wiring, I dont need to buy a new mottor to putt in a m100 or the other huricane spring, the one i cant mention? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Correct, you don't need a new motor to run the M100 after this. Beyond that I cannot say (even if it was allowed) because I haven't tried it, and I'm not about to speculate on it (again, even if it was allowed) because there's jusrt no way to know without trying it. Also, as I mentioned, even with the M100, it's worth considering a more powerful battery. Link to post Share on other sites
slayer544 Posted September 20, 2005 Report Share Posted September 20, 2005 just ordered all the stuff woo cant wait! Link to post Share on other sites
CallOfKtulu Posted September 20, 2005 Report Share Posted September 20, 2005 I would probably do it, i just dont think i van, i'd probably mess my gun up, landing it into a black glad body bag. Link to post Share on other sites
sketchfox00653 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 Heyaz, guyz Static? Would it be easier to but a better battery or would it make absolutely no difference at all due to bad wireing? :3 Any information would be much appreciated. I mean, i have soldering tools and the knowhow from a history of taking things apart-- but its like i tell everyone "i ish poor" so if i mess this up, im *fruitcage*ARU'ED! >:3 andidontfeellikepayingouttheassforanewgun!! ^-^ So again, any help would be appreciated. Laterz, Sketch Fox Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted September 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 As I mentioned earlier in the thread, when I installed the stock CA spring the gun would not turn over reliably at all. It would get stuck, and even my biggest meanest battery wouldn't turn it over. Maybe with the right battery you could get it to work, but I'd wager it would have to be a large type 9.6v at least, it it would have to be built with some seriously awesome cells. That limits you to using the full stock, plus you have to mod the stock to fit the 9.6v pack in the first place, and you're basically throwing away the included battery, plus the battery is going to be pretty expensive. So yeah, I don't recommend that method. If you want to try being lazy first, and you don't mind spending the money, I'd try a different motor (maybe an EG700 or EG1000). They're easy to swap, and if it doesn't work out and you have to rewire it anyway, then you'll have good wiring and a good motor. Can't hurt anything but your bank account. You could also just skip doing the gearbox and just replace the connectors and the extension, that was working fine for me with the stock CA spring, and might have worked with the M100 (can't say for sure you understand, didn't try it). I don't think there's anything you can mess up during the rewiring process that you couldn't fix or replace. Like I've said before you can buy pretty much every part of a TM MP5 individually, inside and out. Don't be afraid, take the risk and gain some knowledge and experience. Link to post Share on other sites
lacroixpamplemousse Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 Ill plan on doing this once I receive my new selector. Great tutorial, can't wait untill I get to 50 posts so that I can +1 you. Link to post Share on other sites
sketchfox00653 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 As I mentioned earlier in the thread, when I installed the stock CA spring the gun would not turn over reliably at all. It would get stuck, and even my biggest meanest battery wouldn't turn it over. Maybe with the right battery you could get it to work, but I'd wager it would have to be a large type 9.6v at least, it it would have to be build with some seriously awesome cells. That limits you to using the full stock, plus you have to mod the stock to fit the 9.6v pack in the first place, and you're basically throwing away the included battery, plus the battery is going to be pretty expensive. So yeah, I don't recommend that method. If you want to try being lazy first, and you don't mind spending the money, I'd try a different motor (maybe an EG700 or EG1000). They're easy to swap, and if it doesn't work out and you have to rewire it anyway, then you'll have good wiring and a good motor. Can't hurt anything but your bank account. I don't think there's anything you can mess up during the rewiring process that you couldn't fix or replace. Like I've said before you can buy pretty much every part of a TM MP5 individually, inside and out. Don't be afraid, take the risk and gain some knowledge and experience. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Aye!...><! ^-^ Well, good advice. Muchos gracias mi amigo! Happy hunting, guyz. Link to post Share on other sites
ef9 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 dang staticzero u beat me to it to write up a guide.... hehe oh well guess i wont post mine then =) thanks for the nice detail touch up on the gun , so any numbers from stock and after the upgrade? btw static , why did u solder the wires directly to the motor? wouldnt that make future upgrades or dissecting a bit troublesome? Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted September 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 I already posted all the numbers I can. I soldered directly to the motor because less connections in the circuit == better. Plus the tiny slide connectors, well, eew. After putting this much time into rewiring the gun with low resistance parts, why put in those potential bottlenecks? Anyway de-soldering the motor connections isn't that hard, and how often are you really planning on going back in there?? Good question though. Oh and if you have a write up, you should post it. You put the effort in, might as well get some eyes on it. Link to post Share on other sites
ef9 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 btw static , is it just me or u didnt use the fuse at all? u are not afraid something might just happen and there is no fuse there? so did u wire in the charger with dean connectors as well since your battery is in dean connectors?..... so u never upgrade your motor and battery? thanks man Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted September 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 As I said in the write-up, I omitted the fuse. I've talked about this in the past too. I know the risks involved, and prefer to leave it out. I don't use a fuse in any of my AEGs. Basically, if the gun locks up, don't stand on the trigger to try and fix it. The fuse is more useful as a diagnostic tool than a safety mechanism in my experience. Also as I've said in the past, my charger has clip connectors which allow me to hook up whatever I want to it. I made a cable with a male deans connector for it. Obviously you'll need to replace the connector on your charger or make an adapter to use the converted battery. I did not upgrade the motor or battery. Link to post Share on other sites
ef9 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 ah great.... i tried to search for your post but cant seem to find it about omitting the fuse... i mean not in this thread , i mean on your other posts on all your aeg..... i would like to know more on that.... so if a gun really locks up... people would usually see the fuse.... if u have no fuse how would u know if its not the motor or battery acting up? Link to post Share on other sites
Jchip Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 awesome work yet again static! I am sure this thread with your step by step articles will help a bunch of people out. There is a good article on airsoftretreat at http://www.airsoftretreat.com/features/rev.../mechbox_guide/ with some more pictures about how to take apart and reassmble the mechbox. It has descriptions and explanations of all the parts, as well as info about reshimming and regreasing. Link to post Share on other sites
ef9 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 what is the intermediate connector that u keep mentioning?......is it the fuse assembly plastic thing? Link to post Share on other sites
Jchip Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 The intermediate connector is two deans connectors joined together (near the stock connection) between the gearbox and the battery in the foregrip. If you wanted to put a battery in the stock you would take the two intermediate plugs apart and go straight to the mechbox from the battery in the full stock. You can see the two intermediate plugs in the last picture and the female deans in the third from the last picture. Feel free to correct me if I go wrong anywhere guys. Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted September 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 Edit: Jchip beat me to it, and he is exactly right. I refer to the connector attached to the wires coming directly out of the back of the gearbox as the intermediate connector. The one in back that can either connect to the stock extension or the stock extension. This one, right here: Link to post Share on other sites
Xet Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 wow you are a god among men ill defintely try this out hopefully with the help of someone experience with soldering haha. Ill try to do the outside of the gearbox and see if that works after i order my m100 and if it works ill let ya know Link to post Share on other sites
phatire Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 Very nicely done, many thanks for the time and effort, and mostly the knowledge! i am wondering though, since you soldered the motor straight to the wires, if you ever need to take out the gear box again, will you have to un-solder those wires? Link to post Share on other sites
wbod Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 I ordered mine last week, it came today. I can't get it to work though. Charged it up and set up a target to test it out, but it's already jammed. It's making a low thud noise rather than the smooth click it normally would make. Can anyone help me out? Link to post Share on other sites
ef9 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 man i cant belief i invested another $150 onto the gun itself... i hope it will shoot better than the rest.... i upgraded all of the internal but just left the spring , motor and gear stock...... Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted September 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 man i cant belief i invested another $150 onto the gun itself... i hope it will shoot better than the rest.... i upgraded all of the internal but just left the spring , motor and gear stock...... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yikes. I hope that works out for you. i am wondering though, since you soldered the motor straight to the wires, if you ever need to take out the gear box again, will you have to un-solder those wires? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Correct. I ordered mine last week, it came today. I can't get it to work though. Charged it up and set up a target to test it out, but it's already jammed. It's making a low thud noise rather than the smooth click it normally would make. Can anyone help me out? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> So it's actually turning over? As in it's fully cycling? Otherwise my first thought is you didn't charge the battery as much as you think you did. How did you charge the battery? You may want to go and start a new thread in the technical forum, your problem will probably get more attention that way. Link to post Share on other sites
malkav33 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 amazing guide. are the motor connectors called slide connectors? i found some slide connectors online (http://www.tessco.com/products/displayProducts.do?groupId=620&subgroupId=19) but they don't look like the ones in the gun Link to post Share on other sites
ef9 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 staticzero: could u explain more about the omittence of the fuse? how would u know if your motor or battery is screwing up the circuit without a fuse to protect it?..... and what kind of solder did u use on the motor terminals? normal resin cored solder?..... Link to post Share on other sites
Shao14 Posted September 21, 2005 Report Share Posted September 21, 2005 staticzero: could u explain more about the omittence of the fuse? how would u know if your motor or battery is screwing up the circuit without a fuse to protect it?..... and what kind of solder did u use on the motor terminals? normal resin cored solder?..... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I would advise against the omitting of the fuse. If you measure the resistance of the fuse, it's practically zero. Omitting the fuse will not give you any noticable difference in performance at all, it will only increase the risk that your gun get burnt. It is not worth it to leave the fuse out. Link to post Share on other sites
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