justsomeguy Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 Anyway, I got it off with major help from DaMan from ASR, who is crazily awesome. Just took some plier action and yanking like crazy. My friend wasn't letting enough time for the motor to run completely through, so the gears got jammed. He was just double taping like crazy during semi auto mode. I opened up the gearbox and readjusted the gears (that anti reversal latch is a *****!). I'm left over with 3 shims though. Some help with that would be nice. What happens if the shims aren't all in, or not all in correctly? Link to post Share on other sites
dudemattbored Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 lol uh oh its going to be a *badgeress* to reshim and if the shimming is to loose you get this grinding nosie from your gearbox the gears will wobble around andit could possobly strip something Link to post Share on other sites
slayer544 Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 quick question. If i remove all the stock shims and just use the little shim guide that came with the systema bearings to re-shim, will that be fine? Link to post Share on other sites
mrezzy Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 that would be more tha fine Link to post Share on other sites
Redeye Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 Static, have you actually measured the resistance on the wire lengths that you used? If so, what was it? Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted September 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 This has some pretty useful and important info regarding shimming. Read it. http://pageproducer.arczip.com/daedalus03/shim.html All sorts of badness can happen as a result of improper shimming including broken piston teeth, stripped gears, the gearbox locking up all the time, or just reduced ROF and battery life. Static, have you actually measured the resistance on the wire lengths that you used? If so, what was it? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No I have not. Link to post Share on other sites
onewickedsvt Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 I just ordered a gun. But let me get this straight, everyone says its affordable, but to get it up to par with other competition, you must spend a lot of money. Therefor it is not affordable. It is a great beginners gun, and I do not plan on upgrading anything serious except cosmetics. Goodluck to all. Link to post Share on other sites
Xet Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 its not really expensive dude a m100 spring cost like 10 bucks and the wiring costs like 15 for me after shipping 125 bucks < 250 or so Link to post Share on other sites
osok Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 Static, first, thanks for the pm, helped alot.Got everthing back together to test and the piston stripped and locked back.So I guess it's back to the drawing board.Any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites
lacroixpamplemousse Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 **PROBLEM SOLVED, POSSIBILITY FOR EVERYONE ELSE HAVING PROBLEMS!** On mine when you put the barrel in the hopup unit, if you tighten the barrel all the way part to the rubber sleve comes out past the interance way for the bbs to come from the magazine. Make sure you only tighten the stock barrel enough where you dont see it. Yes it will be a little loose, but i just did 2 full magazines (1 magazine and then the other) and I didnt have a single double feed or blank (except at the end, which makes sense). This could be some of you all's problem also, I know thats what was wrong with mine. Link to post Share on other sites
Redeye Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 I just ordered a gun. But let me get this straight, everyone says its affordable, but to get it up to par with other competition, you must spend a lot of money. Therefor it is not affordable. It is a great beginners gun, and I do not plan on upgrading anything serious except cosmetics. Goodluck to all. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> My investment has been about $20 so far. Now considering I originally got the gun for $80.... Link to post Share on other sites
Tunershark Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 hey does anyone know if its healthy to charge the battery all the way up and not use it for a week or two?, i have a broken knee so im not outside shooting it often, and when i first got the gun i charged the battery all the way up but now i never shoot it, is this Ok i heard that it discharges itself or something, idk Link to post Share on other sites
Canasian Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 I've put about $80 into my MP5... but it's all cosmetics that can be moved around. $55 red dot, $15 sling, $10 all metal silencer. Oh ya, $1.59 for the brass union to allow the silencer to screw in. When I do internal, it will be a cheap *albatross* spring and some wire. It will be the best and cheapest internal possible plus a lot of people are already doing it. Look at the amount of info on wire alone, like 4 or 5 pages worth lol. Link to post Share on other sites
Tunershark Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 i wonder what would happened if i put an EG1000 into my UTG wihtout any other upgrades Link to post Share on other sites
vengecore Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 I've put about $80 into my MP5... but it's all cosmetics that can be moved around. $55 red dot, $15 sling, $10 all metal silencer. Oh ya, $1.59 for the brass union to allow the silencer to screw in. When I do internal, it will be a cheap *albatross* spring and some wire. It will be the best and cheapest internal possible plus a lot of people are already doing it. Look at the amount of info on wire alone, like 4 or 5 pages worth lol. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> how did you fit the silencer? Link to post Share on other sites
justsomeguy Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 Does anyone happen to know the shimming configuration of a stock UTG MP5? That guide was somewhat helpful, but i'm still a bit confused. So gears shouldn't touch anything but each other? Link to post Share on other sites
osok Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 Patience is truely a virtue.I had a spare piston from my ICS M4 but was reluctant to use it.Put it in anyway and it works so far.Static, thanks alot for this guide. For all the new people,if your going to learn to work on your AEG better be a 80 dollar gun instead of a 300 dollar one. justsomeguy,I believe the stock shimming is one shim on bottom and one on top.I don't know what size thay are but I only counted six in mine. Link to post Share on other sites
famman47 Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 Does anyone happen to know the shimming configuration of a stock UTG MP5? That guide was somewhat helpful, but i'm still a bit confused. So gears shouldn't touch anything but each other? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'm also wondering about the whole shimming thing. To start with, am I correct that bushings are the little metal or plastic washer looking rings that are used to fine tune the lateral position of the gears, and is "shimming" the process of sitting down with a pile of many different thicknesses of bushings and trying them in different combinations until you get the gears perfectly spaced? If the bushings put in at the factory are already just right, then wouldn't proper shimming be achieved by simply putting each one back exactly where it came from? If replacing the factory bushings with metal ones, do you need to purchase bushings in a range of microscopically different thicknesses to be assured to finding a combination that works? Sorry if this post sounds kind of nutty. famman47 Link to post Share on other sites
Redeye Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 I'm also wondering about the whole shimming thing. To start with, am I correct that bushings are the little metal or plastic washer looking rings that are used to fine tune the lateral position of the gears, and is "shimming" the process of sitting down with a pile of many different thicknesses of bushings and trying them in different combinations until you get the gears perfectly spaced? If the bushings put in at the factory are already just right, then wouldn't proper shimming be achieved by simply putting each one back exactly where it came from? If replacing the factory bushings with metal ones, do you need to purchase bushings in a range of microscopically different thicknesses to be assured to finding a combination that works? Sorry if this post sounds kind of nutty. famman47 <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Oh come on! That would be way too darn easy! Link to post Share on other sites
famman47 Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 Oh come on! That would be way too darn easy! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I know it sounds stupid, I just want to make sure I'm following what's being said. famman47 Link to post Share on other sites
osok Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 No the bushings go in the mech box for the gears axles to ride in. The shims go on the axles to space it away from the mechbox and keeps the gears from being to close. There are several good guides on shimming and other maitenance or upgrading. Check 858airsoft.com, airsoftforum.com or any other forum for that matter. There's probably a guide on this forum too. Just search a little, all the answers are out there. As stated I just put mine back together today. Not too difficult but kind of frustrating. Take your time. This was my first time and I did it. Just be patient. Oh, yes the bushings are the little metal or plastic things. Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted September 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 These are (metal) bushings. Note the stock UTG bushings are white plastic, probably nylon. http://www.wgcshop.com/WGC_Shop/images/sys_a15.jpg These are shims. http://www.wgcshop.com/WGC_Shop/images/zs-07-03.jpg While the gun may have a standard/default shimming configuration from the factory, it may not. It doesn't matter really, because even if every gun goes out the door with the same configuration, that doesn't make it right. The point of shimming is to account for manufacturing variances in all the parts involved (gearbox, bushings, gears). Therefor there is no universally correct shim setting, there is only what is correct for the particular gun you're holding. If you need more info, there are a ton of guides out there on this. Search. Pretty much every worthwhile upgrade guide will include info on shimming. hey does anyone know if its healthy to charge the battery all the way up and not use it for a week or two?, i have a broken knee so im not outside shooting it often, and when i first got the gun i charged the battery all the way up but now i never shoot it, is this Ok i heard that it discharges itself or something, idk <{POST_SNAPBACK}> NiMh batteries like the one included with the gun are fine to leave partially charged. There's no need to discharge them, ever. The only thing is, if you don't have a peak charger (as in you only have the included charger, or some other trickle charger) and the battery is partially charged, you have no idea how long you should charge it for when you want to top it off. I dunno about that self-discharging bit. Where'd you get that? i wonder what would happened if i put an EG1000 into my UTG wihtout any other upgrades <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Probably just faster ROF. It's not going to hurt it or anything. Link to post Share on other sites
Canasian Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 how did you fit the silencer? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> A4/5 to SD Conversion w/Silencer http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...pic=31849&st=20 Check out 1Bean1's post. Basically I've been looking to fit silencers ever since I wanted to get an AEG. It was my favorite cosmetic upgrade so I searched frantically. He quotes the price of the brass union at $1.59 at Home Depot. I was surprised to see it was the EXACT same where I live, though not REALLY... (Redmond, WA) I also prefer metal silencers so those differed. The electrical tape acts as your 'thread' if it doesn't match up. Mine can sort of be a shred crooked stiff but it doesn't effect the shooting and it stays pretty straight. I think since it's metal and heavier gravity and such will have more of an effect versus plastic where if you screw it on it'll stay straight and light. Have fun! Link to post Share on other sites
vengecore Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 A4/5 to SD Conversion w/Silencer http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...pic=31849&st=20 Check out 1Bean1's post. Basically I've been looking to fit silencers ever since I wanted to get an AEG. It was my favorite cosmetic upgrade so I searched frantically. He quotes the price of the brass union at $1.59 at Home Depot. I was surprised to see it was the EXACT same where I live, though not REALLY... (Redmond, WA) I also prefer metal silencers so those differed. The electrical tape acts as your 'thread' if it doesn't match up. Mine can sort of be a shred crooked stiff but it doesn't effect the shooting and it stays pretty straight. I think since it's metal and heavier gravity and such will have more of an effect versus plastic where if you screw it on it'll stay straight and light. Have fun! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yeah i dont want the SD front end 'cuz i have atactical foregrip. I'd like to put a cheap silencer on it though. If it fits with the surefire. Link to post Share on other sites
Canasian Posted September 26, 2005 Report Share Posted September 26, 2005 Yeah if you didn't read the thread he shows how to put on any silencer if you don't want to do the SD conversion. Link to post Share on other sites
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