Upgrading a CA36

[Thechom]

Hi there,

I am in the process of making an MG36c, out of a standard ca36c.

 

I'm just wondering th ebest way of upgrading it to be able to fire long, and I mean Looong, like 10 second bursts.

 

I am a compleate n00b when it comes to opening up Gearboxes, so be gentle. I also dont really want to spend too much, no more than say £80ish would be best.

 

Cheers

TheChom

[Raygis LasVegas]

First of all you'll have to downgrade your power. To be on the safe side, consider the V3 gearbox to be insufficient handling a LMG role. Lowering the spring's power to around 300fps (0.2g BB) would be safe enough to go "wild" as a V3 gearbox LMGunner.

 

Secondly, upgrade the AEG's wiring to thicker gauges. Reinforce the solering points on the trigger contacts so they don't over heat. If possible, you might as well purchase a Guarder wiring set as their trigger contacts and plastic contruction can handle higher heat usually dispersed during 10 second bursts.

 

 

Purchase G&P's Polyacetal piston as it's durability is the best... even better than Guarder and Systema.

 

 

Make sure you keep the barrel stock as a tightbore will accumulate dirt and plastic residue faster due to the large volume of fire. Always clean your barrel after 1000 rounds. Once a BB is jammed in the barrel and you continue to shoot 20 more rounds, a catastrophic failure of the piston and gears is inevitable.

 

Chose a battery no larger than a 8.4V 4200mah type pack. If you use a 9.6V battery, your piston will be chewed up due to your low spring power of 300fps. Even if you're using best piston, an ultra-high rof will destroy it with ease.

 

[Xaccers]

Hi there,

I am in the process of making an MG36c, out of a standard ca36c.

 

I'm just wondering th ebest way of upgrading it to be able to fire long, and I mean Looong, like 10 second bursts.

 

I am a compleate n00b when it comes to opening up Gearboxes, so be gentle.  I also dont really want to spend too much, no more than say £80ish would be best.

 

Cheers

TheChom

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Two simple steps to make the CA36c be able to handle 10 second bursts.

 

1. Place hand on pistol grip.

2. Squeeze trigger for 10 seconds.

 

Seriously, the CA36 gear box is a tough little cookie.

I've been running mine on 11.1v for nearly a year now, with bursts longer than 10 seconds.

Yes, the motor has just burnt out, but you're going to be running at 8.4v or 9.6v right and with mini batteries (or do you have the large foregrip for the 36c?) so yours will last even longer (I've put nearly half a million bb's through mine I reckon).

 

Buy yourself a spare piston (TM will do) for when yours goes so you can change it in the safe zone and carry on playing.

[juicymeat]

Ditto with the top, G36's use the V3 gearbox, you dont have to worry about anything breaking anytime soon unless its a fluke. Just get a high powered battery 9.6/10.8v 3000+mah and youll be fine.

[Xaccers]

Remember, having your piston as the weakest part of your gearbox is a good thing!

If your piston goes because of a jam, it normally doesn't take gear teeth with it, and it's relatively cheap and easy to replace.

[MooCow]

8.4 or 9.6v should do you just fine.

i mean if you want it to withstand 10sec bursts. any mainstream branded AEGs should be able to take it without much trouble. (TM ICS CA etc)

 

dont worry about sticking loads of upgrades in.

the G36 you have now is tough enough to last 10sec bursts. the motor will get warm, you'll feel it on the hand grip but it shouldnt be much trouble for a CA AEG to handle. even unmodified.

 

edit:

yes, i agree with Xaccers, gear sets costs £35ish or around that depending on what brand and type you go for. and pistons? a tenna should do the job.

[The Saint]

An auto-winding mag to ensure a steady flow of BBs?

[hsimoorb]

Just buy an aftermarket Piston/piston head so that when and if those parts go out, you'll have a spare. Untill then the internals should be fine for the kind of stuff you're thinking about.

[Thechom]

So, all I really need is a spare piston?

And possibly a slightly lighter spring?

I will be getting the G&P battery stock, as much for looks as to have a big battery. I will only be using 8.4v as I don't want to break anything too quickly. I will also be making a custom box-mag probably auto winding, as its not that hard to do.

 

Thanks for the help everyone, keep the hints coming!

[***Ice***]

Buddy, on 8.4 volts the CA piston may well last the life of the gearbox shell provided it is getting engaged at a decent angle. Also, I wouldn't lighten the spring, a CA36 will come in at about 320, you don't want to go any lighter, if anything you'll want to go with more power.

 

Also Raygis LasVegas recommended 4200mah intellect batteries, this is a fair recommendation, however I would opt for 4300mah Tornado cells as they are cheaper and have basically the same discharge properties.

 

http://www.overlander.co.uk/products/defau...id=111&pid=1406

 

If you really want to pull with NiMH go for the 4500mah Elite cell. However this would be pointless as you're running a stock CA36 on 8.4, which isn't exactly pushing the boundaries.

 

As for pistons, if your CA one does go I'd recommend a TM replacement, or just another CA, both can handle 300 round bursts at about 30rps (with 2nd and 3rd teeth removed)

 

 

Ice

[XenoBait]

How are you attaching the battery? Sorry if i missed that, but on a CA36c, I'd have thought getting a bigger battery in there needs to be the main priority as mine goes through them fast enough without using it for sustained fire. If you're staying with the 'c' configuration you could use the Laylax wide foregrip.

 

Maybe a C-mag and bipod after the battery problem is solved....

 

Edit: battery discussion http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...topic=87947&hl=

[hsimoorb]

So, all I really need is a spare piston?

And possibly a slightly lighter spring?

I will be getting the G&P battery stock, as much for looks as to have a big battery. I will only be using 8.4v as I don't want to break anything too quickly. I will also be making a custom box-mag probably auto winding, as its not that hard to do.

 

Thanks for the help everyone, keep the hints coming!

 

Nah, stick with the stock spring, there's no need to get a lighter one. And the piston, as ***Ice*** said, is mostly a precaution rather than a neccessity, you probaly won't be needing it for a while anyways.