Vektor Posted March 27, 2005 Report Share Posted March 27, 2005 For some reason, airsoft revolver manufacturers fancy either those huge monster magnums or tiny little snub-nosed pocket revolvers, but there is only a handful of mid-framed, medium lenght barreled, true combat revolvers out there. Personally, I´ve always found those handcannons awfully clumsy to use during skirmish (or action shooting competition) and after Tanaka finally moved on to S&W K-frame, I immediately bought a stainless version, M66, of S&W´s classic "Combat Magnum". Hence, my new revolver is a Tanaka Smith & Wesson M66 with four inch tube. At first, when I opened the Guns´n´Guys package, I was a bit concerned, since the Tanaka box was for the snubbie 2½-inch barreled version. Like in many Tanaka boxes, there´s only a small dot on the side of the box, indicating that there´s really a four incher inside. And so there was. The gun looks really good, the "stainless" finish is only a tad shinier than real S&W stainless finish, but still in acceptable limits. I didn´t know what to expect, since the only "stainless" airsoft guns I´ve seen were the horrible Marui Beretta GBB in ugly, mirrorlike "Silver Chrome" and Tanaka´s Colt SAA (which actually looks periodically correct, due to the emulated "nickel plating" finish). But, indeed, the M66 looks very good. Even the fake wood grip is very acceptable, waaaay better than any Marui AK fake wood stocks, for example. The "Target" grip (official S&W name for this type of grip) looks a bit oversized for this gun, but it feels very good and surprisingly comfortable, at least for my small-to-medium sized hands. Fitting an aftermarket grip is probably no problem at all, just remember that S&W K-frames with four inch barrel (or longer) sport so-called "square butt" grip frame. Snub-nosed K-frames have "round butt". When I picked up the gun, the plastic ABS material was noticeable: this gun is rather lightweight, most retailers stating it below 700g. Apparently Tanaka´s still having problems getting their "stainless" paint job to stick in HW materials. The lack of weight is disturbing, but otherwise the gun feels very solid and sturdy. No rattles, no loose parts and everything feels tight & fit. Cylinder latch could be more precise, now it lacks a sharp, clear edge which releases the cylinder. On the other hand, this probably helps keeping the cylinder tight, which is imperative for unobstructed gas flow and accuracy. Gun´s front sight is Patridge type, with red insert, and the fully adjustable rear sight has white frames to aid low light shooting. Trigger is narrow, combat style, and even double action pull feels really smooth. Gas is stored inside cylinder, as in every Tanaka revolver, via an extension rod. Compartment for BBs is also in the cylinder and BBs are loaded from the front of the cylinder, very Tanaka-ish here too. I´ve only had one test fire session with this gun and during that day it was only about +7 Celsius around here (that´s about 45F, right?), so don´t take these results as Ultimate Truth. Due to the cold weather, I used only Green Gas (unbranded Super Power Green Gas, white bottles with dark and light green "camo" pattern) and had a bag of Marui 0,2g BBs for initial testing. Green Gas and lightweight BBs are definitely not the best combination for Tanaka revolvers, since these babies usually shoot such high FPS that accuracy with lightweight would make skirmish opponents laugh at you. But I was hoping that the cold weather would compensate that. I was wrong, unfortunately my bad experience with Tanaka revolver accuracy continued. The BBs flew everywhere. High, low, right and left (well, mostly right, to be honest). Sometimes even dead straight, but there was absolutely no consistence in accuracy at all. Then I managed to find a small bag of Marui 0,25g BBs and tested those too. Sadly, no help. Okay, I´m partially blaming the cold weather and I´ve scheduled an another, more comprehensive test for later, when the weather here gets more "airsoft friendly" (about May-June). I´ll test HFC134a gas and wider range of BBs then, but I´m almost certain that at least this specimen of mine needs a barrel re-alignment. M66 has adjustable hopup, but since there was little consistence in grouping, adjusting hopup wouldn´t have done much difference at this point. Power-wise M66 shot pretty much same FPS as a Marui Mk23 SOCOM NBB with Green Gas, so this Tanaka will not disappoint the power hungry players. I don´t have a chrono, so I can´t give exact figures, but I´ll do more comprehensive comparisons when weather here gets warmer. On the positive side, I managed to get nearly 100 shots through the gun with one charge of Green Gas, so M66 is not a terrible gas hog. HFC134a and warmer weather will get you even more shots than that! Conclusion? Accuracy problem solved, I´d choose this gun over any longer barreled N-frame Tanaka "S&W", any day. This medium sized wheelgun is just so much more comfortable to carry and use, plus the reasonable sized barrel makes fast point shooting and target acquisition more useful (considering the average handgun engagement ranges in airsoft skirmish). Should I recommend this gun to anyone? That depends on what you´re looking for. Revolvers in general require certain attitude and not everyone likes them. If we look at Tanaka M66/M19´s direct contenders in the market, it runs circles around Marui & KWC Colt Pythons (and Marui M19´s) in terms of reliability, sturdiness and power, and at the moment it´s easier to obtain than Tanaka Colt Pythons. So, in the end it´s pretty much up to you. My apologies for the poor quality of the pic, I have really bag lighting in my apartment... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hhsohn Posted March 27, 2005 Report Share Posted March 27, 2005 Excellent review! I'll be looking forward to your additional testings. BTW, I've heard that the short barreled versions have dismal power, so an accurate FPS number would be quite appreciated if possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vektor Posted March 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2005 Thanks, man! Really, since I don´t have access to a chrono (and I´m quite ambivalent on spending my money on a cheap one), I can´t give truly accurate figures. I´m working on an alternative "power proof" method, but I´ll let that one remain a mystery so far... If I get an access to decent chrono later on (´til early June), I´m definitely posting some figures. Looks like that at this point the four-incher is not losing too much ground on longer barreled versions, but I´ll perform some thorough test later. I was near a decent chrono just last weekend, but it was really, really cold day then, so I didn´t see much sense chronoing a gas gun in such freezing weather... Other requests are welcome too (within reasonable limits, of course... )! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PV_Golf Posted May 4, 2005 Report Share Posted May 4, 2005 Have you had a chance to use it with heavier BB's yet? I really would like to get this I just want to make sure that the accuracy isn't as bad as some of the other Tanaka Revolvers. I'm hoping you just need really heavy BB's to get good accuracy/consistency. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vektor Posted May 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2005 Not yet, but I´ve scheduled a second test day in couple of weeks! I´m hoping to gain an access to a chrono and heavier BBs by then. And I´m hoping for heavier BBs to help the accuracy problem too, even though my past experience is not too encouraging... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shao14 Posted May 21, 2005 Report Share Posted May 21, 2005 Any updates? Does the warm weather help with the accuracy? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
seth Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 I'm curious about the FPS as well. My old 2.5 inch M66 chronoed around 200 FPS at around 75F in balmy Hawaii, on a cold cylinder. This was on green gas as well, so the power was pretty poor. I am wondering if the meager 1.5 inch increase in barrel length would drastically kick the FPS and accuracy up? As for accuracy, I recommend tuning down the hopup to the minimum, and using .25 BBs or heavier on green gas. This should tighten your groupings a bit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vektor Posted May 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 Nothing really significant to update yet, I´m sorry. I planned buying a chrono, but I had to postpone that for couple of weeks now. Also the weather warming here took couple of weeks more than I expected, so I didn´t feel it reasonable to test the power in only slightly warmer temperatures than before. You probably already have noticed this topic (or if you haven´t you should check it out)!, which is very useful tech info on Tanaka revolvers in general: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...showtopic=10137 Big Special Thanks to Cerebus for that! For my M66, I bought a Hogue Monogrip about a week ago and fitted it. Unfortunately the fit isn´t 100% snug, there are some visible gaps left between the rubber grip and gun grip frame. And grip also shifts a little bit while shooting. Maybe this is just my bad and I haven´t mounted the grip correctly enough, I´ll have to look into that. Also I´ll try to post a pic with Monogrip attached! And thanks, seth, for the scoop! I´ll test that too if the accuracy is not improved otherwise! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
seth Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 (edited) Vektor, are these the grips you installed on your piece? http://www.store.smith-wesson.com/store/in...sw_activeTab=10 Hogue K/L square butt monogrips? I was hoping to buy one of these for my future M66 4 inch...but if it doesn't fit (well), might as well not waste the money. Edited May 23, 2005 by seth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vektor Posted May 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 Seth, yup. Exactly that rubber grip, Hogue model 10000 "Monogrip" for S&W K/L frame (sq. butt). Here´s couple of pics I just shot: In the latter you might see (sorry again for my poor photographing, I will stop shooting pics after this...) that there are visible gaps between grip and gun gripframe. Hence, the fit is notsnug enough. In Tanaka´s gripframe, the two prongs in the bottom are not wide enough to accomodate Hogues grip stirrup firmly (at least I came up with this explanation) and allows it shift a bit. Too bad, altough Hogue Monogrip wasn´t really too expensive. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HaVoC Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 I don't suppose anyone knows a stockist of the 6.5" version, do they...? In silver, of course Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shao14 Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 I don't suppose anyone knows a stockist of the 6.5" version, do they...? In silver, of course <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Did Tanaka make a 6.5" M66? Well, as far as I like the combat magnum's look, its performance fails to impress, so I guess I'll go for a SAA instead, and I can finally have a duel with Ocelot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cerebus Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 (edited) Seth, yup. Exactly that rubber grip, Hogue model 10000 "Monogrip" for S&W K/L frame (sq. butt). Here´s couple of pics I just shot: In the latter you might see (sorry again for my poor photographing, I will stop shooting pics after this...) that there are visible gaps between grip and gun gripframe. Hence, the fit is notsnug enough. In Tanaka´s gripframe, the two prongs in the bottom are not wide enough to accomodate Hogues grip stirrup firmly (at least I came up with this explanation) and allows it shift a bit. Too bad, altough Hogue Monogrip wasn´t really too expensive. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hmmm that is a poor fit, the guy I bought my Umbrella magnum from also included real steel Hogue monogrips with were very snug with no gaps. Mind you I still find the ones Tanaka supplies with it's revolvers to be softer and more comfortable, and obviously an even better fit which is why I wish they'd released the M66 with them. Also there is no 6.5 inch M66 available yet, otherwise I would've definitely bought that instead. Chris. Edited May 23, 2005 by Cerebus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shao14 Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 (edited) If I want a 6.5" revolver, I'd go for the M629. Unfortunately, I don't know anywhere that has any of those in stock. Edited May 23, 2005 by Shao14 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HaVoC Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 Knackers, you're right I'm getting confused - I thought this was the M629... Ah well, my quest for the Sledge Hammer! revolver continues... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shao14 Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 (edited) Yea, Sledge uses the M629 (I'm not sure if that's the correct number because the black version is called M29. All the S&W numbers are so confusing. ), and it's a .44 magnum. the M66 is only a .38. Edited May 23, 2005 by Shao14 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HaVoC Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 I see Sledge's gun was silver, so I think it's the 629. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Redhawk Posted May 23, 2005 Report Share Posted May 23, 2005 Yea, Sledge uses the M629 (I'm not sure if that's the correct number because the black version is called M29. All the S&W numbers are so confusing. ), and it's a .44 magnum. the M66 is only a .38. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The "6" means stainless. And the M66 is not just a .38, but a .357 also. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shao14 Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 The "6" means stainless. And the M66 is not just a .38, but a .357 also. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Aren't some of them use .38spl? Here's my source http://world.guns.ru/handguns/hg76-e.htm What the heck is the difference between .38 spl and .357 magnum? Sounds to me that the .357 magnum is more powerful that a .38 spl. Is there such thing as .38 magnum? Also is .44 magnum bigger than .45 ACP? Is .50 AE bigger than a .44 magnum? Is there a .50 magnum? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Redhawk Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Aren't some of them use .38spl? Here's my source http://world.guns.ru/handguns/hg76-e.htm What the heck is the difference between .38 spl and .357 magnum? Sounds to me that the .357 magnum is more powerful that a .38 spl. Is there such thing as .38 magnum? Also is .44 magnum bigger than .45 ACP? Is .50 AE bigger than a .44 magnum? Is there a .50 magnum? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes, most .357 revolvers can also chamber the .38; the .38 has a slightly shorter shell casing and it's not as powerful as the .357. There's no such thing as a .38 magnum, at least not that I'm aware of. The bullet diameter of a .45 ACP is nearly the same as a .44 Magnum, but it's nowhere as powerful as the .44. Some people consider the .50 Action Express, or .50AE used in the Desert Eagle, a .50 magnum. Also the newly developed .500 Magnum used in the S&W M500 revolver, is a .50 magnum. Does that help? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shao14 Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Yes, most .357 revolvers can also chamber the .38; the .38 has a slightly shorter shell casing and it's not as powerful as the .357. There's no such thing as a .38 magnum, at least not that I'm aware of. The bullet diameter of a .45 ACP is nearly the same as a .44 Magnum, but it's nowhere as powerful as the .44. Some people consider the .50 Action Express, or .50AE used in the Desert Eagle, a .50 magnum. Also the newly developed .500 Magnum used in the S&W M500 revolver, is a .50 magnum. Does that help? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ah, yes, that helps a lot! Thanks! So, diameter is not everything. Oh yea, and is the S&W .500 magnum bigger (as in more powerful) than the DE's .50 AE? And where does the 10mm sit in the power spectrum? My impression is that it's more powerful than a .45ACP. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Redhawk Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Damn you, Shao, you and all your questions! The .500 Magnum is the most powerful handgun round to date. As for 10mm versus .45 ACP: a 170-grain 10mm round travels at 1300 FPS, while a 230-grain .45 ACP round is at 860 FPS. So you do the math! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shao14 Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Hey, those numbers are above forum rules! I can't do math with numbers that big. How heavy is a grain? haha, ok, you don't have to answer that. I think you have cleared all my confusions on different calibers very nicely. Thank you! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Redhawk Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Well I'm glad now that you could sleep better at night. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snowman Posted May 24, 2005 Report Share Posted May 24, 2005 Those Hogues look a dreadful fit. It's not a case of fitting square butt grips on a round butt frame (or vice versa) is it? All the Tanakas I have seen are excellent replicated and I can't believe they got this one THAT wrong...especially as Seth's 500 grips seem a perfect fit. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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