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The longer piston means that the last tooth the sector gear touches is not going to be metal... it will have big negative effect on reliability(last tooth is the one that is very important to have in metal due to its size and position). You can modify the piston to be shorter by moving the metal tooth back.

I need to clean up my desktop...as soon as I have time.

That is due to airsoft ones being only reinforced for about 0.5/1mm thick on the outside, the inside is pretty much still abs.

PM, it exists for a reason. My collection of G36 consists of two CA G36s, no TM. Your opinion does not represent the "many" so if you do not like quality externals...I have nothing more to say. You can compare TM AK to RealSword T56 if you MUST not compare general build quality of each brand. OP, I am sorry and I will leave now before more rabid fanboys start the flaming.

Yes I can. RealSword + KWA 2G bucking... TM just got pwned. Marui may have superior hop-up to less-quality companies(such as most ACM companies), but their performance is very overrated. *coolface* If I want Milsim I would not want a gun that feels like a toy but cost over $400. Whine? You will never get RealSword external out of any other gun manufacturer. Except for maybe Norinco (LOL). I do not want to go off-topic but I had to. -.- ---------------------- Anyway, Marui recoil engine is good(not so much the G36 since it connects to the piston...DIY job can be done to ea

Although I disagree about the recoil(seriously, these EBB system blowback are TOO weak to affect anything and not much better than G&G fake blowback)... the price vs. external is too true. Spending THAT much money for a full-ABS plastic (ABS here = ABsolutely s***ty) G36 is not justified IMO in anyway. ARES does a much better job.

Perhaps the WE rep that was e-mailed was thinking of STAR full-length G36 kits which includes a AEG inner barrel? That might be the reason to say that it will not fit.

Only the top cover iirc.

FINALLY!!! A picture that is taken CORRECTLY. I have seen so many ###### AK (ex: the brutally cut-down ones, ones fitted with SVD stocks, ones with capitalist suppressors) that my eyes almost started to bleed.

It may be that it is missing a hop-up nub and is being pushed down by only a arm. I would take it apart first to check.

There are more pieces to remove in order to completely remove it. But you have more time later.

In Chinese, they said that you need to switch to full-auto and fire a few shots if semi-auto jams on a sticker on the manual somewhere IIRC. It is a common thing. XD You just need to remove the pre-wind and blow-back feature for the semi-auto to stop jamming.

It is held by friction. Unfortunately, you need another barrel to put in the front to hammer it out. Do not remove the gas block, it is unnecessary. The barrel is a M4-length (363MM iirc), it was mentioned above somewhere.

Me and some other local comrades who do PLA loadouts (I am a Chinese, so it is natural) tend to hypnotize each other into thinking that it is a QBZ-95... we also NEVER look at the mags. I covered my mags with tape.

Subsequent variants were blued, THEN painted over with paint. I found some bluing under the paint of my Dboys AK... win.

Might be the mag, try pushing it up the magwell (some brand, like *cough*gay echo1*cough* tends to do that). You probably forgot to turn the spring guide into the correct position when you reinstalled the spring... that can be fatal because the spring can get caught in the gear and everything can blow up. Good thing: RealSword sells all their internal parts.

Congrats, this is one of the only non-communist weapon I am willing to consider (others being AUG and P90, both used in one of my favorite anime). This one is cool because it is like the AKS-74U of AR but not really very AR-ish... But have GHK done anything with AKMs? I heard they are going to actually do the AKM and make some good changes to their AK gas internals. Though... nothing beats Daytona Gun... nothing (getting their AK drop-in kit next year).

You are so unlucky. Both my Dboys AK are running fine after who knows how many rounds... (I ran atleast 15 bags of bb through one of them) without breakage of stock internals... the only thing that broke was one of the aftermarket 7mm bearings I put into it and now it just ran 4000 rounds on stock nylon bushings (emergency in-field repair). Maybe it has something to do with the fact that AK are blessed by motherland.

I find the normal Type 97 a bit slow on the rate of fire department. When using a high quality 9.6v battery, that is. That is just me, though... (all my other guns with either SRC stock motor or Guarder inf. torque shot atleast 3 rps faster...) 16rps is also very realistic. Btw, I have already broken the front of the hop-up unit after the 7th time of taking down hop-up for maintainence... stock bucking + hop-up = really tight. Luckily, the hop-up can have the front (in front of the barrel clip) break off and function perfectly due to the design of the gun. Now I finally go

Stock bucking, 6 for .25g bb. I used around 7-8 for .28g bb, which is what I actually use in Skirmish due to high stock fps(in U.S., it exceeds 400 on .2g). Airsoftgi probably ships to Europe. However, firefly is pretty much the same thing, and I prefer Firefly because it cost more .

I get really good results with both firefly(hard) and KWA 2g buckings due to the V-fin design.

"From Asia (actually, just China, the one and only China... the People's Republic of China) with Love" - a RealSword Type 97 review by a Comrade(me) After carefully considering compatibility with my lookouts(Modern Chinese PLA Ground Forces or Marines), I have decided on buying the RealSword Type 97 instead of the Type 97B or Type 56 series(as they are only used by reserved units now). The order arrived relatively quickly within 3 weeks of ordering from PrecisionAirsoft.com. I have encountered problems with the upper hand guard, which I will attempt to explain here before anyo

To make a correct AKM (correct enough for members of Red-Alliance.net anyway...), you need: 1. Weld over the "L" and "D" markings and re-stamp the Russian markings onto the rifle. 2. Change the whole stock + stock locking mechanism. 3. Get Russian AKM handguard. 4. Install new FSB, Rear sight, and muzzle break. That would cost over $300... just get a VFC or LCT.

You can still just get Nimh...