Megalomaniac

Relevant MOSFET sheets: A&K: http://www.ruichips.com/pic/RU40280R.pdf PTW: http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf4905.pdf and http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irl1404.pdf DTW: http://www.silikron.com/upload01//SSF4004%20V1.1.pdf and http://www.ic-on-line.cn/view_online.php?id=1133691&file=0074\2sj657_652068.pdf AFAIK the 40-280s need a big massive heatsink and even then are worse at handling heat, which may be why they die an early death, but I am not an expert on MOSFETs, I just dabble.

The 5 MOSFET board is the 07 design, yup they used 5 very weak MOSFETs which tend to die from back fed voltage from the motor (PTW motors make a huge amount of AC line current when they spin down 4-5V vs 250mV from an EG1000) but the added in TVS on the A&K should have helped stop that, but FETs don't really fully like load sharing so it could be one FET soaks all the heat and fails open as FETs tend to....

Double check your DTW, I have one of the "newer" models with no markings on the body, and it has a mechanical safety as well as an electronic.

A&K electronics are clearly an 07 clone, and from a technical standpoint they are the WORST electronics, but it looks like A&K added a TVS diode which should help keep the motor the FETs alive.

If you are having trouble with MOSFETs you are doing something vastly wrong, bullet proof IRL3034 based units are available for as little as 18 bucks for a basic switching FET.

Back on topic, got a DTW and a pile of parts from various brands. DTW motors are the adjustable type if you secure the proper bolt and ball bearing size. If I read the data sheet for the FETs in them correct they have a lower VgsOn than the regular SystemA which should make them more resistant to under voltage batteries.

As far as Semi-Lockup, switch to a high torque motor and reduce resistance if you can. As far as ROF lowering, likely your motor's gotten a bit dirty and burnt from usage, either clean the comm or replace. Cleaning the comm is easy IIRC Maekii on Youtube has an excellent guide.

That rig, you owe me a new pair of work trousers.

Alu cylinders are prone to getting dents and nozzles are problem on the entire *TW platform, ideally if you skirmish with a *TW you should have two cylinder assemblies, a set of springs, and a set of nylon washers for FPS adjustment.

My kit for Red Storm East,

Background: ?SKD Tactical, initially started out as a gear retailer and in the past few years have branched out and started producing new and novel pieces of gear, they have done this under the PIG or "Patrol Incident Gear" brand, like everything else they do the PIG line is focused on quality and cost effectiveness. A Brigandine refers to a type of medieval armour that consisted of a light vest or "Jack" interwoven with metal plates, as a lighter form of armour over a maille shirt to provide a level of protection without the weight of the heavier plate amrour of that day, and the PIG

A friend got it for me since he knew I spent most of my childhood/early teenage years playing Half-Life and CS.

Sounds like they cocked something up when they worked on it, but without it on my bench I can't blame shoddy tech work.

Angle of the picture and the way I pulled it over the chair, both are size Small SAPI.

I like it, it is basically the perfect cross between a dedicated PC and a slick PC + Chest Rig setup.

SKD PIG BRIG SYSTEMA:

TM CQBR:

TM recoils run fine on 7.4v up to 20c Li-Pos more voltage or amperage can cause overspin/pre-engagement of the stock setup.

100% it sounds like a nozzle or tappet issue issue, if the nozzle is in properly you won't be able to twist it, if it isn't it'll twist and seat back a hair. That little bit extra that it sticks out is enough to cause a constant failure to feed on semi and an intermittent failure to feed on f/a.

Give your mags a deep cleaning, mine miss fed and failed to lock after being loaded up with Biovals for too long.

Wiring miss routed can do that, magazine catch being installed too loosely can do that, also look at your air nozzle if it isn't seated right it will sit forward just a hair and block feeding.

That would be the usual trade off, higher torque means underload the pinion will reach max speed sooner but that speed will be lower, thus better trigger response but lower ROF.

Yes TPA is turns Turns Per Armature, lower TPA equals higher speed but lower torque and greater heat generation underload, higher TPA is lower speed but more torque and less heat underload.

Um, your wiring is likely getting hot from that grossly inefficient low TPA armature, I find an EG1000 armature is the ideal host armature for a Neo-magnet can, plenty of torque but still rather quick.

Trying out a variety of new stuffs as the very start of my Airforce PJ impression.