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Found 13 results

  1. Apologies for the bullet-point formatting. It seems I can't modify it so each list is single-spaced. If the formatting really bothers you, here's a link to this same document on my google drive: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1U8acwm_xEDo04XfRLj5s-8Zh1z1LMpER9AGWt6l8ONQ/edit?usp=sharing TOKYO MARUI M870: BUILDING THE ULTIMATE AIRSOFT SHOTGUN This is a modification-oriented overview of the Tokyo Marui M870, which has been written over the course of 6 months and covers each phase of my modification and outfitting plan. Treat this writeup as a technical supplement to the more standard reviews already out there, some of which are listed in the Additional Resources section at the end of this document. If you’re short on time, the following is the BLUF (Bottom Line Up Front) for this article: This gun is okay out of the box. Somewhat better than a spring-powered tri-shot shotgun, but not significantly so. See Phase 1 notes for more details. The issues plaguing earlier production runs of this gun have been largely corrected in newer batches. See Phase 2 notes for more details. If you want to maximize reliability and exploit performance potential, get comfortable with taking the gun apart. This especially applies to the x-ring modification, which greatly reduces the likelihood of your gun leaking. See Phase 2 notes for more details. If you plan on upgrading, use WiiTech parts. The more, the better. See Phase 2 and 5 notes for more details. If you want to fine-tune your gun’s performance, converting to HPA is recommended. See Phase 4 notes for more details. If you want to run ammo heavier than 0.30g, be prepared to experiment with the hopup system. See Phase 3 notes for more details. If your gun ends up shooting 0.36+g bbs best, you’ll likely need to upgrade your loading system components. See Phase 5 notes for more details. Fitting a real Remington 870 stock is possible, but it’ll take some work. Having a machinist perform the modification is recommended. See Phase 6 notes for more details. Do not use soft or brittle bbs, like Valken. High-quality bbs like HPA and BLS minimize the likelihood and severity of jams. See the Verdict section for more details. The contents of this article are as follows: Inception/Viability/Selection: Background information Phase 0: Notes gathered from various reviews about TM M870 problems and fixes Phase 1: First impressions and stock performance Phase 2: Disassembly, upgrade and reinforcement part selection, and installation Phase 3: Experimenting with different hopup modifications Phase 4: HPA conversion and performance testing Phase 5: Internal part repair and reinforcement Phase 6: External part selection and fitment, including converting a real Remington 870 stock to fit Phase 7: Accessory and equipment selection On the field/Verdict/What’s next?: After-action report, final modifications, lessons learned, and conclusion Additional Resources/References: Helpful links and sources for information indicated by bracketed numbers The following is the parts list for this build: Base gun: Tokyo Marui M870, wood version Internals Amped Airsoft Integrated Grip Line (IGL) for Jack 1.1/F1/F2, screwed into ¼-28 tapped gas port Blackcat mechanical box spring set WiiTech 150% hammer spring, P/N 4051 WiiTech stainless steel valve pin, P/N 4043 Size 104 nitrile x-ring, modified, installed on valve pin DangerWerx transfer bar WiiTech aluminum loading plates, P/N 4044 WiiTech duster gas nozzle, P/N 4045, with nozzle shaft return spring from WiiTech top gas loading nozzle WiiTech 2016 version hopup chamber, P/N 4059 TM hopup rubbers, shimmed with electrical tape WiiTech 6.03 x 380mm extended inner barrel set, P/N 4032 Externals Real-steel Knoxx SpecOps stock, Gen 1, machined to fit Blackcat sling adapter, slot type, modified to interface with Knoxx SpecOps stock TM M870 Tactical black faux bolt, P/N 870T-39 G&P saddle rail and shell carrier, cut down, P/N MSP-017 Real-steel GG&G QD T1 mount, with Dytac T1 red dot and WiiTech T1 lens protector G&P railed pump, P/N MSP-002H, with Longshot Manufacturing 25-slot M-Lok rails machined to fit Replica H&K vertical foregrip Night Evolution M600C weapon light FMA LA-5 battery box Replica KAC rail covers x2, cut down, backside filed to allow passage of cables WiiTech dummy magazine tube extension, P/N 4028, with coupler from G&P magazine extension Real-steel Remington 870 magazine tube clamp US-issue M60 sling, configured as 3-to-1 point quick adjust sling with ITW MQRB bolted to saddle rail Accessories/other TM shotgun shells with MAS SuperFeed springs and HexMag follower bases Redline SFR regulator First Strike Hero 2 48/4500 HPA tank, or dual First Strike Guerrilla 13/3000 HPA tanks Amped Airsoft HPA line TechT GunSav grease If you’re interested in learning the specifics of how I transformed this rather ordinary replica into what is perhaps the ultimate airsoft shotgun, buckle up. It’s gonna be a long read.
  2. Afternoon guys. This morning I was very lucky to receive my brand spanking new Tokyo Marui Remington M870 Tactical, from the good folks over at Redwolf UK. This is a text/ video review for now, with a video and preliminary firing test uploading tonight. First impressions. The box is very nice and well presented, with pictures of the shotgun on the front with features in English and Japanese, with a nice glossy finish. Inside, you're immediately struck by the shotgun- securely held in place with straps. The Shotgun comes with one removable gas tank and one 30-round shell, both packaged separately to the gun inside the box. The shotgun itself. The shotgun feels great. It's got a metal body, metal rail and sights, trigger and trigger housing, metal charging arms on the pump, and metal shell tube and barrel. The rest seems to be high quality ABS-type plastic. The pump is light to rack, and sounds GREAT. Trademarks are typical marui- ie, they've got the Tokyo Marui name and logo on it. The gas tank is a bit awkward to access- the rubberised stock pad seems to just 'pull off', rather than any specific knack. When you want to change the tank, you just press a catch inside once you take off the pad, and it releases it fine. Gassing the tank may take a while- Marui claimed you can fire '100 shots' with it, which I'm not 100% sure of so far, but I possibly didn't fill it up enough. The cartridge is well built, holds 30 rounds snugly, and is semi translucent so you can see the outline of the bbs, which is cool. The shell door, always a weak point of the original Marui M3 shotties, seems to be much more secure here. It's not metal, but it feels a lot more solid. How does it shoot? Firing is simple- you rack the pump, select whether you want to fire 3, or 6 shot, and blast away. 3 shot is great. There's some spread, but it's reliable, powerful, and range is decent out the box on green gas. 6 shot is EVIL. The bbs go in a similar spread to the 3 shot, with not much noticable drop in power- it fires 2 from each tri-barrel, so you're getting hit with 2 rounds in 3 places with each pull of the trigger. You can also slam-fire the shotgun; hold the trigger down, and rack the pump. This is going to be brutal in CQB, especially on 6-shot. I can empty an entire 30-round shell in under 3 seconds. Initial conclusions. Initial conclusions are that this shotgun is a BEAST. It feels solid, shoots well, seems powerful and takes green gas fine. It feels great fun to fire, and I think it's the shotgun system we shotgun fans were waiting for. I'll be putting it through its paces this weekend at Operation Orchid Dawn at Tier 1 military simulation, and it should get a thorough workout in that FIBUAR environment at Stanta, so I'll update further after its first big outing. Massive thanks to Gaz and Sam at Redwolf UK for getting to me so quick, and for sorting me the two spare gas tanks. Video version of this review should be up later tonight. If you're on facebook, please like my page, Maple Leaf Tactical. https://www.facebook.com/mapleleaftactical?fref=ts My youtube channel is here. http://www.youtube.com/user/writerdave87 Cheers Dave
  3. vorpalbunnie

    Tokyo Marui AA12

    Hi! First person to buy it from Echigoya and I've been loving it for the last 30 hours. I'll embed my pics when I'm home along with a better write up. For now here is the imgur album: http://imgur.com/a/Bq3GO Videos later too
  4. Batmause

    PPS shotguns

    Hey there, I made my first video about a range-accuracy test with a PPS XM26 shell ejecting shotgun. I bought this shotgun a half-year ago but it was one of first time when I used it. My experiences was that this shotgun isn't like the cold weather, that is why I didn't use it for a while. I recorded this test on 5-10-15-20 meters distance with 4 different BBs, like 0.12g - 0.20g - 0.25g - 0.30g BBs. The results was that you can hit the target on 5-10 meters all the time if you aimed to the target. On 15 meters I recommend heavier BBs, like 0.23-0.28g BBs because the wind can change the trajectory but in CQB I recommend 0.23g or 0.25g BBs. It is hard to hit the target over 20 meters which is acceptable for a shotgun. If the weather is good (temperature) you can hit the target by aiming above the target. The grouping is really closed thanks for the hidden inner barrel and for the fixed hopup system, there isn't any grouping under 8-11 meters. Basically the XM26 shotgun is a really nice gun. The receiver and the bolt carrier is made from aluminium, the outer parts looks really nice. The stock is a copy of B5 crane stock with really nice surface/finish. I liked the gun except the compensator which was made from plastic, I will replace it with a steel version in the future - it will cost a lot to reproducing but I don't care. Sadly it is hard to use because it doesn't have any shell catcher - unlike the M870 has few solution. The M870 isn't as well built shotgun as an APS CAM870. Lighter and it looks like a toygun - compared to APS. The receiver and all the external parts made from metal, more like aluminium. There is few parts which made from steel - ejecting plates, forend cradle bars, shell carrier, shell ejector, shell catcher, sear. The painting on the receiver isn't homogen but the other parts are really good. At this moment I'm a bit busy but I like if you share your experiences with your PPS shotgun. I will record a video review in the future but at this moment I can not do it.
  5. From the album: BST Works

    This is our BST valve-nest for Tokyo Marui M870. The stock valve-nest isn't seal properly so we redesigned it with a lot nice and nice function. - New sealing design. The valve-nest has much better and bigger contact are which cause better sealing even with HPA. - It has a spring guide for the hammer spring. - Made from copper by hand-working. The size is perfect, we spent a lot energy to reach the best design - this is the third version. The third version tested with HPA, it is run 7 month without any leaking in TM Breacher.

    © GBB Hungary

  6. AirsoftGuns-Europe.com

    AirsoftGuns-Europe.com NEWS

    Hi, we are Airsoftguns-europe.com and for summer ending for you, our customers, we prepare some Special Offers. Take a look yourself. We are sending goods throughout European Union. Everyone knows them, everyone wants them. Gas operated pistols from Tokyo Marui, Japanese warranty of quality for best prices. Metal and plastic spring operated shotguns made by Cyma. Affordable price, great power, large variety of types. Everyone chooses. Choice from many color combinations, metal and polymer slide. Winner in Airsoft Players Choice Awards. Did you voted too? Need a high power or great durability? Let´s take a look to our AirsoftGuns Custom series. Customized by our team, with more than ten years of experiences.
  7. CatgutViolin

    Apple Airsoft / 6mmProShop M1887

    Just a little bit of background, I saw a video of this gun back in October and immediately became interested. I'm a big fan of both the Terminator films and Westerns, own a modern reproduction of the Winchester 1887, and had been long considering buying a Marushin M1887 and seeing if I could convert it to 6mm- so when I saw that a clone of the Marushin was coming out, and in 6mm no less, I jumped at the opportunity. So first things first, here's how it comes out of the box. Not too bad, really. The finish on the wood is terrible, and the matte black finish looks a little weird compared to the distinctly metallic finish on the real thing, but the whole gun is aluminum and the grips are decent quality wood. It feels solid. I've owned quite a few cheap pot metal guns and it doesn't feel like that at all, and I wouldn't be concerned about breakage. That said, it's aluminum. Repeatedly opening it up to mess with the grips and internals has worn at the threading and it's in danger of stripping screws. Just have to be gentle with it. So firstly, working with the externals, I sanded the wood down, easily removing the cheap stain and finish. I stained it with a few light coats of Minwax Gunstock, then sealed with several layers of Tung oil. As I said, the wood is much better quality than the finish indicates, and I think it came out pretty well. I also wanted the gun to have a more metallic sheen, and while I could try wearing down the paint to expose aluminum, I was concerned that oxidizing aluminum would have the wrong finish. So, I buffed it with powdered graphite. My point here is that while it may look like a cheap toy out of the box, it's not made of terrible materials and can look much better with just a little bit of work. I did try fitting the full stock from my real 1887, and it would take just a little bit of removing wood to make it fit, so I ordered a second full stock so as not to modify the one I use on the real shotgun for obvious safety reasons. Now onto operation. First, it uses green gas or duster, through a fill valve cleverly hidden behind the hammer arm. With the hammer uncocked, you open the action fully, and it exposes the valve. Because the valve is recessed, the gun comes with a small fill needle extension, but I found I didn't need it for my propane adapter. It was hard to get a good image here- the gun is pointing to the right, and you're looking at the lever assembly in the foreground. Next, the shells. The gun comes with five of them. Each shell is a CNCed aluminum tube with a plastic sleeve/cap friction-fit over it, with an O-ring at either end. The design is almost identical to the Maruzen M870/M1100 shells, but slightly shorter and with an interesting recessed rim design. Unlike the Maruzens, the interior is not simply a single 6mm hollow tube. It has a larger 6mm hollow tube big enough to hold the BBs, which narrows into a 4-5mm channel for the gas, like airsoft revolver shells. Because the BBs can only fit in the short, larger section, each shell only holds up to 3 BBs. That's better than a single shot I suppose, but still pretty stupid since I see no reason whatsoever why the shell could not be opened up with a drill bit to hold 8 or 9 BBs instead like the Maruzens. It looks to me like it was just cloned from the 8mm Marushin, which only held 3 BBs, which is a disappointing missed opportunity for improvement. Below on the right is the stock shell. You can see the O-ring that holds the BBs in and the 6mm tube, and just the end of the gas channel. On the left is a homemade shell- we'll get to that. So now with the shells loaded with 1-3 BBs each, they get loaded into the gun. Oh, here's where the fun begins. It seems simple enough- open the action, push the carrier down with a shell, slide it into the tube. In practice, however, if you push the carrier too far down the shell just runs into the bottom of the magazine tube, and the shell won't go into the tube unless it's almost parallel, necessitating a very awkward motion to load it. If your finger slips, the follower or already-loaded shells ram the one you're trying to load back, and then you have to wedge it forward with your thumb and push it into the tube. This process can be dramatically improved, as discussed below, but out of the box it took me about a full minute to load five shells, and that's as someone already used to the funky loading mechanism from the real thing. Here's what the action looks like. The lifter is the only significant plastic component on the gun. Oh yeah, and the gun holds five shells in the tube plus one in the chamber. The manual says 4+1, but the gun holds five in the tube fine. By comparison, the real thing also holds five in the tube and one in the chamber, but can also hold an additional shell on the lifter, for a total of seven. This replica can't, so it's limited to six. Once the tube is loaded, the user either loads the last shell directly into the chamber, or onto the carrier. Fully opening the action pushes the lifter up, then closing the action loads it into the chamber. Here's what it looks like with a shell on the lifter. Pull the trigger to fire, then cycle the action with the lever. The extraction is extremely smooth and reliable, and doesn't ding up the shells or wear down the extractor the way the Maruzen guns do. It's very smooth in operation. Unlike the real one, it does not eject straight up, it flings the shell backwards and a little bit up, so they go across the user's wrist. No complaints here, it does exactly what it's supposed to. I will note that the gun is a little weak, firing about 330fps with 0.2s and propane at roughly 70F (21C) with just one BB, making it pretty weak with 3 BBs. That's also fixable. I'll note here that not only does the gun have a hop-up, but it's even adjustable and works pretty well. That's a great feature for a multi-shot shotgun, as most seem to have a fixed hop or no hop at all. The gun comes with a dummy shell with a lever, you load it into the breech and turn the lever and it adjusts the hop. Pretty slick system. So now, let's talk about how to make this gun actually useful and not just a cool-looking wall-hanger. Firstly, the loading system is the worst part of the gun, by far. Having the lifter go too far down and needing to get the shell almost parallel with the tube before it will go in are the two big offenders. Both are surprisingly simple to fix. To fix the lifter, I glued a small piece of ABS plastic to the lever mechanism, as shown below: When the lifter comes down while the action is open, this piece of plastic is in its path, and arrests its movement, preventing the lifter from going down too far. Once the action is closed, it gets out of the way so the gun can feed. Action closed: Action open: The second problem is with the tube. I don't have any pictures as it's hard to get to, but it turns out there's a small gap between the tube and the frame by design, which is what the follower engages to keep it in the tube. If the shells are being pushed in at an angle, they hit the lip formed by this gap, and won't go in. My solution was to fill this gap with a bit of epoxy putty, then smooth it out with sandpaper. Now I can load shells in at a steeper and less awkward angle. These two changes make the gun much easier to load and fix the main problem with using the gun. Another issue is the power. It's pretty lacking. Thankfully the hammer spring is easy to get to and can be bent or shimmed to give it a bit more power. Piece of cake. And lastly, the shells. Initially I was going to talk about how shells aren't sold separately, but it seems that in the last day Evike has added a 5-pack of shells for $18 to their site (despite telling me last week that they had no plans to do so), so the issue is now less the unavailability of shells and more their cost and 3-BB capacity. Although $3.60 apiece is cheaper than any other airsoft shell I've seen, getting a decent combat load of 30-50 represents an expensive investment, and again, 3 BBs apiece, so might as well just get a tri-shot. My options were to use a drill to open out the stock shells, or to build new ones from scratch. I opted for the latter. These shells are composed of 5/8" ABS tubing, 20ga shotgun hulls, an assortment of steel and nylon washers, and rubber O-rings. They're extremely easy to make, feed and cycle as well as the stock ones, hold 9 BBs apiece (woohoo!), and only cost about a dollar in materials each. If anyone's interested I'd be happy to detail the materials and construction process. Stock and custom shell comparison: And in the gun: One last shot, the final result: A lot of people see shell-ejecting shotguns as unskirmishable gimmicks, but personally I've never had any trouble with my Maruzens, and I'm feeling confident that with these modifications this gun will be a serious contender in CQB. I intend to get some shooting footage as soon as I have the opportuntiy in the next couple of weeks. Hope this was helpful!
  8. APS CAM870 AOW (Picture heavy) Also known as the Serbu Super Shorty, RS made of either a Mossberg or a Remington 870. This airsoft replica looks mostly like the Remington cause of the safety button, but the front grip is wrong either if its a Mossberg or Remington but I understand why they had to make it like this. Ordering Ordered it from Airsofttiger111hk, easy ordering and about 9 days waiting from it left HK til it was at my door. I payed 422$ for the gun and shipping. The gun alone on that site cost 355$. The Box I do not have the box to show, they flipped it around so it looked like a regular cardboard box on the outside and the real box inside and so much damn tape I ruined the box opening it but I have to say, it looked just like a Umarex box for some reason It comes with the shotgun itself and a shell catcher, 2x shells, 50 wads and paper, and the tool to fill the shells with gas. First impression Its so damn small, Its really heavy for its size but not to heavy, it feels good in the hand and its really maneuverable. No wobble except the front grip (and that was expected) but it doesn't feel weak in any way. The front grip is spring loaded, just pull it down to flip up or down. Cocking the gun makes a really nice sound, its a little hard in the beginning but I guess it will get easier over time. Loading the shells into the gun takes no effort, It got room for one shell in the chamber and two in the mag tube. Bought a couple extra shells, the two blue are in the box and comes with the gun. Not much of trademarks other than on the left and right side of the barrel: The gun also features a thread protector in the front. One thing I found strange that disappointed me was that I had bought a 2" flash hider for this, it says on APS's website that the flash hiders are for any 870 shotguns as long as they have a threaded barrel but my didnt fit, it's about 1-2mm to big to catch on the threads on the gun. I have emailed APS about this. Final thoughts I love it, I first thought it was way to expensive but I still ordered it and I cant say I regret it at all. It is well worth the money. But is it skirmishable? If its CQB only and you have enough shells I think one would get a lot of fun with this. Sins the barrel is so short and theres no inner barrel I am really curious about the performance, I'm in the middle of moving so I couldn't test it out today unfortunately. I will update when I get an answer from APS about the threaded barrel and the flash hider not fitting. This was my first overview so I'm sorry for anything wrong , I'm not that good at english
  9. DangerWerx

    TS-Rail 3

    From the album: Recent Uploads

    © Dangerwerx.com

  10. DangerWerx

    TS-Rail 2

    From the album: Recent Uploads

    © Dangerwerx.com

  11. DangerWerx

    TS-Rail 1

    From the album: Recent Uploads

    © Dangerwerx.com

  12. DangerWerx


    From the album: Recent Uploads

    © Dangerwerx.com

  13. DangerWerx

    Dangerwerx Tri-Shot Rail

    From the album: Recent Uploads

    © Dangerwerx.com


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