McC4rtn3y Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 As of the end of my freshman year of highschool, sports and training for sports has pretty much dominated my schedule, to the point where it has become pretty much impossible for me to make the trip to my local airsoft site to play. However, I have had some spare time to go out and shoot cans in the backyard. Now that my WE dragon has crapped out on me, I've decided that a fun project for the summer would be to begin building a custom pistol off of a TM Hi Capa for display and plinking purposes (perhaps for use in the occasional small skirmish), in addition to the enjoyment of working on something. My priorities are the following (in order): -Pistol needs to run flawlessly and reliably on green -It needs to be accurate and consistent -It needs to look cool From what I've gathered, the stock plastic slide can wear down from the use of green gas over time, so replacing that with a metal one is necessary. I also want to replace the stock outer barrel with a metal one. The stock frame is metal from what I've heard, so that won't be changed out. I'm pretty much a n00b when it comes to upgrading gas pistols, so I have a few questions: - My parents won't let me order from overseas, so I'm unable to get parts from Redwolf. The best selection I've found was at www.poweredgeusa.com, but they only carry Guarder and Shooter's Design metal slides. At half the price of the SD slides, the Guarder slides are much more attractive to my budget. Also, the other Guarder parts are relatively inexpensive, so this seems a good option at first glance. However, "you get what you pay for" is weighing in the back of my mind. What kind of quality can I expect from Guarder parts? Are they a good deal, or will they break/misfunction? In specific, I'm looking at these parts: Slide 150% recoil spring Outer Barrel -With the use of a metal slide, will it be necessary to upgrade the magazine valve, or will the stock valve do the job? If so- guarder or nineball/laylax valves? -On the same note, is it better to use an upgraded recoil spring with the metal slide? Or will the use of green gas compensate? If I upgrade the recoil spring, do I need to upgrade the recoil spring guide as well, or is the stock part fine? -I wanted to use this thing to use this silencer on the Hi Capa. This fits inside the outer barrel, correct? Will changing the stock outer barrel to a Guarder version effect the fit? -In regards to the above, I know that adding too much weight to the outer barrel (silencers, etc.) can inhibit the slide cycle. Would it be better to go with a 100mm silencer or will the 150mm be fine? -Are there any upgrades that are considered "must-haves"? (piston heads, valves, recoil/hammer springs, etc.) Are there any that I don't need that I'm considering using? thanks for all help and input that you guys can give me- it helps me out a ton. Link to post Share on other sites
hkssr20det Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 First off I would go with the SD slide over the Guarder. The guarder requires you to mill the blowback unit sides to fit, and is noticeably heavier than the SD. The SD might require some fitting on the rear sight (my V12 slide did) but the OPS should be OK. I also would steer clear of the Guarder outer barrel, I have heard of problems with the cycling. i would check and see if PE carries the Nine Ball or Tanio Koba. Guarder recoil springs are fine, and you won't need to upgrade the recoil guide rod. The stock one is plenty strong. You don't need to swap to Hi Flows, but the Guarder Hi Flows are good. I find that Nine Ball valves work well, but are fragile. I have broken a few. That suppressor adapter attaches to an extended inner barrel. You can't use it without running at least a 6inch tight bore. In terms of other upgrades I would really suggest the Nine Ball Dyna Piston and Air Seal. Good, cheap upgrades that will help with the cycling. Link to post Share on other sites
McC4rtn3y Posted July 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 I just checked how much it would cost, taking into account what you said, and there's no way I can afford to see this through- It would leave me dead broke, and I still need new cleats... Time to stash this idea into the "big folder of things to do when I have more money". Plus, $450+ for a pistol is well into the 'ridiculous' category. Link to post Share on other sites
hkssr20det Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 I suggest you score the pistol, recoil springs, piston and air seal. Should be around $200 shipped. It will hold up to green just fine, and will shoot great. Link to post Share on other sites
McC4rtn3y Posted July 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 Ok, thanks. I'll definitely look into that. Link to post Share on other sites
TunerGuy Posted July 3, 2007 Report Share Posted July 3, 2007 I suggest you score the pistol, recoil springs, piston and air seal. Should be around $200 shipped. It will hold up to green just fine, and will shoot great. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Seconded. That's a good basic setup to run while you find extra cash for your money pit. I mean... your pistol. Link to post Share on other sites
Curious Posted July 3, 2007 Report Share Posted July 3, 2007 $450+ for a pistol is well into the 'ridiculous' category. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thats £225 right? Somebody introuduce this guy to titelist... Or HBC... Or even my pair of Hi-capas... Airsoft is like a big money black hole. Dom Link to post Share on other sites
McC4rtn3y Posted July 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2007 I'm well aware of it being a black hole... My black hole just absorbs stuff over time rather than all at once. Link to post Share on other sites
McC4rtn3y Posted July 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Alright, I've come up with the following shopping list: TM Hi Capa 5.1 Dyna Piston Head Air Seal Packing PDI 7 inch 6.05 tightbore Guarder recoil spring KM lightweight 200mm silencer comes out to around $250, maybe a little more for a new trigger or something, but right around where I was aiming for. Slide/outer barrel and whatnot will come later. What do you guys think? Link to post Share on other sites
Sledge Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 What's the recoil spring for? And how are you attaching the silencer? Link to post Share on other sites
McC4rtn3y Posted July 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Recoil spring was advised earlier, and the tightbore comes with an adapter for the silencer. Link to post Share on other sites
Sledge Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 I'll take your word for it on the tightbore. Whoever told you to get the recoil spring was talking out of their *albartroth*, though. Link to post Share on other sites
Hudabon Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 If he's getting a new piston and air seal for increased fps, the increased recoil spring will aid in keeping the cycle of the action as or as close to stock as possible. The recoil spring is something to buy now and have for when he gets newer parts, such as a heavier metal slide, and it will help for the time being with the new piston as well. Link to post Share on other sites
Sledge Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Really can't see how it's gonna be needed. The Hi Capa stock is not exactly known for sluggish recoil. I'm a big believer in the "test the gun, THEN see if you need to improve other bits" philosophy. Link to post Share on other sites
hkssr20det Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 I think the 5.1 could use a little help. It is snappy on green stock, but an upgraded recoil spring really helps the cycling. My personal view. Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Don't mind Sledge - our local Capa-Conservative. True enough, a Guarder recoil spring in a metal slided Hi-Capa is, hmm *thinks for a while* friggin awesome!!!1 But you may want to chicken out and add a 4.3 style recoil buffer to the base of the recoil rod, or you may eventually need to have shrapnel from the exploded rear sight surgically removed from your eyeball(s). And sharp slivers from the detonated stock recoil plug removed from your regular ball(s). SD slides do come with a fairly nice stainless steel plug though. Link to post Share on other sites
Sledge Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 I believe in the "if it works, don't spend money on it" approach. Personally, if you feel the Hi Capa needs a faster cycling speed, probably best to wait until you've got a metal slide. Oh, and won't a stronger spring increase the tension on the rearward stroke? So the slide will come forwards faster, but go back slower? Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 I believe in the "if it works, don't spend money on it" approach. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> An approach not shared by many in the world of airsoft. Oh, and won't a stronger spring increase the tension on the rearward stroke? So the slide will come forwards faster, but go back slower?<{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's what logic and good common sense tell you. What really happens, when you pull the trigger on a metal slided, hammer springed, hi flowed, 150% recoil springed, non-recoil buffered Hi-Capa, is (insert H-bomb test archive footage here) then you staring at gun in disbelief, then (insert H-bomb test archive footage here) (insert H-bomb test archive footage here) (insert H-bomb test archive footage here) (insert H-bomb test archive footage here) (insert H-bomb test archive footage here) (a couple seconds later) (insert H-bomb test archive footage here) (slide locks back, you fetch pair of pliers from toolbox, in order to remove Hi-Capa rear sight from forehead) Link to post Share on other sites
morb Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 Sorry for hi-jacking your thread mate.. I just purchased myself a TM Hi-capa 5.1 But, in order to adjust the hop up i would need to take of the slide. How do you do this? There's a small 'button' on the right side of the gun, i press this so you can take the pin out on the other side but it won't budge! I'm afraid of breaking it if i use some force on it so that why i'm asking it here first I also have a new 9 ball hop up rubber lying here somewhere, should i change this with he stock bucking? I also have a high flow valve from guarder, how do i replace this? Can i just screw this out of the mag or do i need to disassemble the mag first ? Cheers! Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 look for any M1911 take down thread/post on google/altavista/yahoo/dogpile http://www.sightm1911.com/ http://www.m1911.org/stripin1.htm http://www.marstar.ca/AssemblyColt1911.htm Link to post Share on other sites
duos2k Posted July 29, 2007 Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 Any one here have problems with BBs sometimes rolling out, double feeding OR sometimes not feeding at all AFTER installing the guarder recoil spring? My gun is completely stock. I added the guarder hammer spring and that seems to improve it a bit. Now, when I install the guarder 150% recoil spring, my gun have problems with BBs rolling out sometimes, misfeeds, OR double feeds. When I put the original spring back in, it works like a charm. I really like the hard recoil of the guarder spring, so how do I make it work with the guarder spring? If there is no simple fix to this, I'm just going to use the original spring and call it a day. Any suggestions? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
Eskimo_Magic Posted July 29, 2007 Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 lube your loading nozzle? (it might be keeping stuck to the hop up unit i know mine did this for a while) use a stronger gas? (if the slide isn't cycling properly. Or even, cjeck to see your hop up rubber isn't ripped or broken, my M9 had the rubber ripped off and bb's used to fall out and all weird sorts. Link to post Share on other sites
duos2k Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 lube your loading nozzle? (it might be keeping stuck to the hop up unit i know mine did this for a while) use a stronger gas? (if the slide isn't cycling properly. Or even, cjeck to see your hop up rubber isn't ripped or broken, my M9 had the rubber ripped off and bb's used to fall out and all weird sorts. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I tried lubing it already, it'll only help for the first 5-10 shots. After that, the problems comes back. I put the original spring back in, the problem is not worht the trouble. Thanks though Link to post Share on other sites
Hudabon Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Check the return spring on the top of the loading nozzle as well, that may be coming loose or undone. Link to post Share on other sites
Carbine Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 Quite often the Guarder 150% recoil springs are too strong and cause mis or double feeds. I had to cut one down on my M1911 to make it work and swap another for a 120% in my P226. The stock hi-capa doesn't need a stronger recoil spring anyway, since it's already super fast cycling stock. Link to post Share on other sites
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