Jump to content

Having AEG Second Thoughts

-=OGGY=-

By -=OGGY=-,
in General Discussion

  

42 members have voted

  1. 1. What to choose?

    • G&P WOC M4A1
      15
    • WA M4A1
      1
    • WE M4A1
      11
    • Inokatsu M4A1
      4
    • AEG (Probably Custom MK14)
      11

Recommended Posts

-=OGGY=-

-=OGGY=-

Posted
Posted

OK, for quite a while I have been sure that I want to build a custom MK14 Mod O with many RS parts costing a TON of cash (a few K's). I have put a lot of time into research of the MK14, and I mean a lot, but I am questioning whether or not it will be worth it. If I did go the MK14 route, it would take very long for me to get a complete gun since I would only be able to afford small amounts of parts at a time.

 

All of a sudden I have begun looking towards GBB M4's. M4's are not my choosen type of weapon but I am still a fan because:

 

-they are used widely in the military

-there are very realistic GBB replicas of them

-There are many options in customizing

 

I know the 'which GBB is best' argument has been done to death, but I have a specific set of guidelines that will hopefully make it easy to pick the best GBB for me.

 

-It needs to take green gas/CO2

-It needs to be skirmishable (won't wear down much/any faster than a regular AEG)

-I want it as realistic as possible (possibly ruling out the WE)

-I want it as good as possible (externaly) out of the box (so the one the looks the best and will require the least amount of things to be replaced)(possibly ruling out the WA with it's plastic body)

-I want it to be upgradable to around 400fps with good accuracy (not sure on WE upgrades)(may rule out GBB's all together)

-I want good value (but I am not afraid to lay down some cash as long as it is worth it)(possibly ruling out WA and Ino)

 

 

Also some manufacturer specific questions:

 

-G&P

-what type of finish is on the body?

-how do you fix the wobble between the upper and lower reciever?

 

-WA System (G&P, WA, Ino)

-what are the best parts to replace?

-I was thinking all RA-Tech stuff (hammer, hop-up, ect)

 

 

So I think that's everything, please vote and post your opinions, thanks, oggy

 

EDIT: Also, I don't skirmish that often so that is why I am not worrying about gas prices, ect. I hate to admit that I am a chairsofter. I wish I wasn't, but no one plays seriously where I live; this is partly why I am looking towards the GBB's.

Link to post
Share on other sites
RC-1138

RC-1138

Posted
Posted

If you have the funds and the time, go for the Inokatsu. I would if I had the money (damn thing is so realistic took me a second to realize I was watching someone take apart a TOY)and it fits most of your "requirements" but overall I would prefer and suggest an AEG. I think the GBB will be more fun to use, but for sake of practicality and skirmishability an AEG is best at this moment in time.

Link to post
Share on other sites
renegadecow

renegadecow

Posted
Posted

One of the major drawbacks with a GBB M4 is of course the ammo capacity. A lot of people won't accept it and just dismiss it altogether but if you're happy with it then you're half way there. Next comes choosing which GBB M4. All of them have their quirks, none are perfect out of the box. The WA is made of poo, Inokatsu is very expensive, WE breaks down easily but have cheap and abundant replacement/upgrade parts, G&P have most of the problems of the WA sorted out but it still has some issues inherent to the design mainly massive cool down. All of the above options are equally just as skirmishable as AEGs despite the ammo capacity; its your game style that has to adapt to it unless you won't mind lugging 10 mags just to be at par with 1 or 2 hicaps. Power wise, you have no problem. It takes a lot of dough to get an AEG to shoot at 500fps reliably. Most of the GBB M4s require you to downgrade them first just to be able to play with in a site.

 

-Inokatsu if you have a lot of money

-G&P if you have some cash to spare

-WE if you don't mind replacing some stuff and getting in the gun yourself

-WA if you're a sadist

Link to post
Share on other sites
WatZ

WatZ

Posted
Posted

Ever consider classic airsoft?

You'll have a gun that will last longer then you, out range almost anything on the field(with a properly tuned LRB) and tunable FPS/ROF with a cheap spring or o-ring, maybe just PSI.

 

 

You know the downside and people love saying it.. There's a 4mm hose.. Oh my!

 

If you want to see how bad a hose is, check out my rig:

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp302/W...AAR007x1600.jpg

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp302/W...AAR008x1600.jpg

http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/pp302/W...AAR009x1600.jpg

End result:

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g200/Wat...001x1024s57.jpg

 

The gun and rig connect through QD fittings.. Takes about 1 second to disconnect using 2 fingers and it blocks the airflow so the tank can remain pressurized.

 

It won't ###### you off anymore then your sling does and I hate most slings...

Link to post
Share on other sites
-=OGGY=-

-=OGGY=-

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I kind of half considered classic; the thing that really puts me off more than the hose is simply that they are no longer being manufactured and many of their manufacturers are now no more. I like having the peace of mind of being able to e-mail a manufacturer or order replacment parts direct.

 

About cash, at this point it is not a problem as I have been building up cash for my MK14 project for some time (about $800) and with any luck I should have another $200 set aside in a week or so.

 

My one worry is that I haven't heard much of Ino; it is crazy expencive so I will definatly be checking around to see just how good it is, because I have no problem shelling out cash for airsoft, as long as the gun matches the price.

 

EDIT: Just saw that there are two versions of the Ino; a $750 one and a $1075 one with steel internals. Do you think the steel is worth it or would the $750 with RA-Tech stuff be better?

 

EDIT 2: Is the one at Redwolf http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=25508

the "DX" version (is says "enhanced") or is it the standard?

Also no rear sight?!?!?! that sucks.......can anyone recomend a good sopmod BUIS that I could purchase along with the Ino if I go that road?

Also any other places to buy the DX version?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
RC-1138

RC-1138

Posted
Posted
I kind of half considered classic; the thing that really puts me off more than the hose is simply that they are no longer being manufactured and many of their manufacturers are now no more. I like having the peace of mind of being able to e-mail a manufacturer or order replacment parts direct.

 

While I'm no fan of classic airsoft, that's hardly a reason to not consider them. For the record... when has a manufacture ever supplied parts? I've had things break on CA's, TM's (I'm in the US before you say anything), G&P's, and Star, none of whom would supply parts directly. All of them, except Star, who wouldnt even email me back :rolleyes: (I still love their gun) all forwarded me to other companies. In short, don't worry if the company who made the gun doesn't exist cause they probably wouldnt help you anyway. To be honest you'd be fine with Classicsoft since there's a HUGE community dedicated to using them who would probably, in the odd event you needed a new part, be able to fix you up no problem.

 

That said I still think the Ino or a sueped up AEG is your best bet. And it's your money but I can't see why, when you're already spending $750, take the hit and get the all steel internals for a few more $$'s, one less thing you have to worry about right? Then it's really the few plastic parts you'd have to worry about and if Ino's are all that their built up to be, pun not intended, that shouldnt be an issue either.

Link to post
Share on other sites
-=OGGY=-

-=OGGY=-

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is nothing wrong with classics I would just rather have a product that.....i really don't know how to phrase it......is more supported? what I am trying to say is right now the WA system is mainstream, with manufactures making all kinds of parts (internal external) all the time; While the classics are long past their prime and have definatly fallen outof the mainstream. That is realy the best way i can explain it.....i have the thought in my head, putting it into words is proving to be a bit of a problem :)

 

Anyway I am really leaning towards the Ino, and I think someone over there really f***ed up because I can find the DX version for $790. A little turn off for a perfectionist like me. however is the moldline in on the front (magwell) of the receiver. I guess it looks kind of uniform in a way and I am assuming that RS M4 may have it as well (since the Ino uses the same manufacturing process as RS).

Link to post
Share on other sites
WatZ

WatZ

Posted
Posted

Well I won't try and convince you but classics are still in their prime.

There are a few classics that had problems but with the right ones, all you'll ever need to replace is a 3 cent o-ring.

 

 

Good luck in cold weather btw.. Even Co2 won't help..

I noticed mine can probly work around -25F - +250F :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
RC-1138

RC-1138

Posted
Posted
A little turn off for a perfectionist like me. however is the moldline in on the front (magwell) of the receiver. I guess it looks kind of uniform in a way and I am assuming that RS M4 may have it as well (since the Ino uses the same manufacturing process as RS).

 

If it makes you feel better, as someone that uses real steel M4's with a decent regularity, I can say their FULL of imperfections, scratch easy, have lines in places inside and outside the receiver, and quite frankly most airsoft receivers are "nicer" looking than anything one would ever find on a battle rifle.

Link to post
Share on other sites
tanpanther

tanpanther

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty much sure I will get the G&P WOC GBB, but there's one thing I'm not so sure about. Many WOC users have reported that there is a little problem when you reload your gun. They say you have to charge the hammer before slap in another fresh mag to the gun. By charging the hammer does that mean I have to pull the charging handle for every reload?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Magsz

Magsz

Posted
Posted

Do not use o-rings to fix receiver wobble.

 

First off, the wobble does nothing for a real gun, it shouldnt have any negative affects on the airsoft version either.

 

Using an O-ring on the front receiver lug can wear your receiver holes oblong.

 

Do NOT do this.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Firefly0

Firefly0

Posted
Posted
I'm pretty much sure I will get the G&P WOC GBB, but there's one thing I'm not so sure about. Many WOC users have reported that there is a little problem when you reload your gun. They say you have to charge the hammer before slap in another fresh mag to the gun. By charging the hammer does that mean I have to pull the charging handle for every reload?

 

That is only need for the first magazine if the hammer is in uncocked position, i voted G&P WOC.

Link to post
Share on other sites
xerxes

xerxes

Posted
Posted
Why oh why can't a manufacturer produce a classic already. It takes a cottage manufacturer, a guy who has access to a machine shop and some spare time on his hands, in order for it to be produced. Ridiculous.

 

Because very few skirmishers are willing to pay over the odds for a weapon that uses a hideous tube / tank setup to power it? A lot of people are looking for realistic operation of their skirmishing kit. Short of simunition, gas in mag GBBs are the only way to fly currently.

Link to post
Share on other sites
mcnuggets

mcnuggets

Posted
Posted

Okay, CO2 mags is a step in the right direction. However you're still contending with unregulated CO2 oppose to regulated HPA.

 

And TBH there's something environmentally irresponsible about releasing HCFC's and unburnt propane, which both have many times the global warming potential of CO2, into the atmosphere. I feel guilty enough that I've stopped using gas guns that rely on these propellants.

Link to post
Share on other sites
renegadecow

renegadecow

Posted
Posted
How can you tell whether the hammer is cocked or not?

If you can't put the selector to "safe" its either cocked or broken. Chances are its cocked.

 

And TBH there's something environmentally irresponsible about releasing HCFC's and unburnt propane, which both have many times the global warming potential of CO2, into the atmosphere. I feel guilty enough that I've stopped using gas guns that rely on these propellants.

You might wanna read up on this.

http://www.geocraft.com/WVFossils/greenhouse_data.html

While the GWP of propane and "assorted" petrochemicals are much higher than CO2, the sheer concentration of CO2 overshadows this by a ginormous margin. This is why my conscience has led me to use a 100cc motorcycle instead of a car when I have to travel by my lonesome.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.

  I accept