Lube.

[Sonic01]

I did, but please note this was on a VSR. The 20fps loss was compared to using silicon oil with a viscosity similar to abbey 35.

 

This is not something you would use in an aeg cylinder as it only lasts about 200 shots before having to be cleaned out & re applied.

 

In all fairness, I use the oil over any grease, specifically because it gives the extra fps, in conjunction with a teflon cylinder.

 

 

Greg.

 

im not familiar with abbey 35 or normal silicon oils, only the spray versions. im guessing the oil is very thick?

[greg]

im not familiar with abbey 35 or normal silicon oils, only the spray versions. im guessing the oil is very thick?

Not very. A little more than the spray.

 

 

Greg.

[Sonic01]

Not very. A little more than the spray.

 

 

Greg.

 

so the thinner the oil the less resistant against the piston and its o-ring, the more compression behind the bb?

[greg]

so the thinner the oil the less resistant against the piston and its o-ring, the more compression behind the bb?

I guess so. But I'm an observer, not a scientist.

 

I have no definitive conclusion why,,,,,,,,,,,,,, it just does.

 

 

Greg.

[AnotherJesus]

I've noticed the same. But unfortunately, the thinner the oil, the less inclined it is to stay in it's position. Grease is meant to stay in place. I use thin grease (lard), because it stays there, and I don't like taking my gun apart if it's avoidable. I think it's a good compromise, and the availability is a big factor as well.

[Kipper]

I'm currently using the maplin silicone grease in the little tube, very impressed atm.

 

Dropped to 1+/- fps after a few games without being taken apart and on the whole im happy with the consistency.

 

EDIT- Bolt pull is lovely and smooth also.

[Travis_2]

Maybe try spreading a thinner coat of grease.

 

I have been using 800wt RC silicone shock oil lately, doesn't seem to be traveling into the hop up yet.

[greg]

It is that compromise between performance & longevity:

 

Sure the thin oils give more fps but they do mean a strip down every 200 shots.

 

You can feel it in the bolt pull if you don't do it.

 

It literally seizes up, real sudden like.

 

 

Greg.

[A Tobias]

im currently out of silicon oil and grease and i was just wondering how mineral oil would work to lube the vsr 10 cylinder

maybe a little on the outside too to ease the bolt pull

or would thi have negative affects that i dont know about?

[greg]

im currently out of silicon oil and grease and i was just wondering how mineral oil would work to lube the vsr 10 cylinder

maybe a little on the outside too to ease the bolt pull

or would thi have negative affects that i dont know about?

It will have to be synthetic friendly.

 

There are nylon parts on the inside & outside of the cylinder & a rubber o-ring to consider.

 

 

Greg.

[Sonic01]

while were on the discussion of lube, what lube do you guys use on your pistols?

 

ive always used silicon spray on mine but it means a lot of maintenance, pretty much in between every days gaming i have to strip down, clean and re-spray to avoid jams/lockups. i know when i bought all my pistols they all had a thicker lubricant in them... but i have no idea what it was. id like to use something longer lasting.

 

what are your thoughts?

[greg]

while were on the discussion of lube, what lube do you guys use on your pistols?

 

ive always used silicon spray on mine but it means a lot of maintenance, pretty much in between every days gaming i have to strip down, clean and re-spray to avoid jams/lockups. i know when i bought all my pistols they all had a thicker lubricant in them... but i have no idea what it was. id like to use something longer lasting.

 

what are your thoughts?

Well, this is another reason why I tend to only skirmish plastic.

 

Metal need a lot more attention in my experience.

 

I tend to pop the slide, brush out any debris around the slide. A little silicon spray which is then wiped off, to remove any dirt the brush missed. Then a tiny drop of the thicker abbey 35 type stuff to help relieve friction on the rails. About 2 minutes work, that's it. Something to do while waiting for the batteries to charge.

 

 

Greg.

[Sonic01]

Well, this is another reason why I tend to only skirmish plastic.

 

Metal need a lot more attention in my experience.

 

I tend to pop the slide, brush out any debris around the slide. A little silicon spray which is then wiped off, to remove any dirt the brush missed. Then a tiny drop of the thicker abbey 35 type stuff to help relieve friction on the rails. About 2 minutes work, that's it. Something to do while waiting for the batteries to charge.

 

 

Greg.

 

thanks as always where do you get abbey 35 or other silicon oils?

[greg]

thanks as always where do you get abbey 35 or other silicon oils?

Abby 35 is in most Airsoft shops.

 

Or, as said, most DIY superstores will sell some sort of silicon, pvc gutter lube. I get mine from the local Wicks.

 

 

Greg.

[Sonic01]

cheers for the silicon oil mate

 

as an experiment i took apart my g17 which was already bone dry since the last game and put a layer of silicon GREASE over every part that moves and makes contact with other parts.

 

i forgot how unbelievably thick and sticky this stuff was! when i first cocked it the slide only travelled have way forward hehe. i cycled it about 20 times with a mag and it started to smooth out. cycles ok now, but its a little slower than usual and the slide has a harder time locking back, it doesnt always manage it.

 

im going to take it to a CQB game on sunday and see how it performs. if it stays tio sluggish after a couple of mags i'll thin it out a little bit with silicon spray.

 

i might try testing this with ceramic grease or teflon grease as well, since they are both thinner than silicon grease.

[greg]

cheers for the silicon oil mate

 

as an experiment i took apart my g17 which was already bone dry since the last game and put a layer of silicon GREASE over every part that moves and makes contact with other parts.

 

i forgot how unbelievably thick and sticky this stuff was! when i first cocked it the slide only travelled have way forward hehe. i cycled it about 20 times with a mag and it started to smooth out. cycles ok now, but its a little slower than usual and the slide has a harder time locking back, it doesnt always manage it.

 

im going to take it to a CQB game on sunday and see how it performs. if it stays tio sluggish after a couple of mags i'll thin it out a little bit with silicon spray.

 

i might try testing this with ceramic grease or teflon grease as well, since they are both thinner than silicon grease.

Please do, don't forget to post results.

 

 

Greg.

[greg]

Can't remember which post I put these details in, but it weren't this one & it should have been:

 

A tip was posted recently on silencing the annoying 'ting' signature associated with upgraded vsr's. It involved teflon tape on the spring guide. An alternative suggested 'greasing' the spring guide.

 

I took this up, being on the teflon grease, & smothered the spring guide in 'Finnish line teflon fortified grease'.

 

It worked, no more annoying 'ting'.

 

& it stayed working.

 

But, i ran into a very odd problem. The bolt pull remained smooth as silk, but after about 500 shots, pushing the bolt forward became almost impossible.

 

Long story short, the nylon bushes on the 'Zero' type piston were binding on the inside of the cylinder. The grease was causing a hydrolock! this had to be broken before the cylinder would move forward.

 

I gave this some thought & came up with a few 'engineering' solutions.

 

But, rather than re machining the bushings, I decided to return to my old abbey 35 type lube for the cylinder walls.

 

As the teflon grease does not seem to transfer from the spring guide to the cylinder walls, I have kept with that.

 

So, I now have the best of both worlds, the silicon on the cylinder, gives higher fps (although has to be replaced every 200ish shots) & the teflon grease, on the spring guide removes the 'ting'.

 

 

Greg.

[Sonic01]

Please do, don't forget to post results.

 

 

Greg.

 

lol i forgot how thick and sticky this stuff was. i literally greased every part the moved and touched another part, even where the outer barrel touches the slide towards the front. also took the loading muzzle out and lubed that all the inside bits that touched and the piston head. did the slide rails too.

 

i had to cycle it about 20 times for the slide to start coming forward properly.

 

so how did it do at the game? well i used about 5 or 6 mags through it during the day, as i used it the access grease started to wear out, most of it being visible forming on the front of the slide where the muzzle comes out.

 

the gun started off a bit slow but after 5 mags it was working pretty well still a TINY bit slower than if it had silicon spray in it but i have no fear of it drying out during the days playing. in fact i think this will last quite a few games like this.

 

im gunna do a chrono test at some point just to see if the grease in the muzzle and piston head had any effect on fps as well, not that i think it will im just curious.

[greg]

lol i forgot how thick and sticky this stuff was. i literally greased every part the moved and touched another part, even where the outer barrel touches the slide towards the front. also took the loading muzzle out and lubed that all the inside bits that touched and the piston head. did the slide rails too.

 

i had to cycle it about 20 times for the slide to start coming forward properly.

 

so how did it do at the game? well i used about 5 or 6 mags through it during the day, as i used it the access grease started to wear out, most of it being visible forming on the front of the slide where the muzzle comes out.

 

the gun started off a bit slow but after 5 mags it was working pretty well still a TINY bit slower than if it had silicon spray in it but i have no fear of it drying out during the days playing. in fact i think this will last quite a few games like this.

 

im gunna do a chrono test at some point just to see if the grease in the muzzle and piston head had any effect on fps as well, not that i think it will im just curious.

So, all in all a thumbs up?

 

 

Greg.

[Sonic01]

So, all in all a thumbs up?

 

 

Greg.

 

well im not planning on taking the grease out so i guess so! as for the slide locking back at the end of the mag im not sure because ive started carrying less ammo so i check the front of the mag more and switch it out when theres less than 3 rounds.

 

in my manual tests it did lock back most of the time.

 

ill try it again when i play at our game this coming week greg

[greg]

when i play at our game this coming week greg

You know, I am so up for next weekend. I've been looking forward to it since March.

 

Fingers crossed there is a good turn out & the weather is in out favor.

 

No wind or rain & about 100-a-side will do nicely.

 

 

Greg.

[Samm]

ive always used silicon spray on mine but it means a lot of maintenance, pretty much in between every days gaming i have to strip down, clean and re-spray to avoid jams/lockups. i know when i bought all my pistols they all had a thicker lubricant in them... but i have no idea what it was. id like to use something longer lasting

The main problem with GBB slides is that they are exposed areas and liable to attract any dirt /dust in the air or where you leave them. The same alpplies to any external moving parts on anything in airsoft.

 

Gearboxes and cylinders are fine for viscous greases because they're mostly contained and not much ###### can get in there.

 

One good application for rails on a GBB is molybdenum disulphide. It's used as a safety stopgap lubricant in high pressure/high temperature jobs to prevent accidental damage or seizure. Being that in airsoft there isn't any immense load bearing issues this stuff is more than adequate.

As it's a dry lubricant (looks just like pencil lead but works better than graphite) it's perfect for external use as it attracts no dirt, it's like liquid teflon.

 

Definitely overkill for the intended use, but it's as cheap as any other lubricant and has very unique and useful properties for airsoft.

 

 

It's quite hard to find as a pure and dry form as it's usually mixed with lithium for gearboxes and clutches.

 

The stuff you want it the Molyslip RAM Air Drying Film of Mos2 lubricating paint;

 

http://www.crewchiefspitstop.com/acatalog/Aerosoles.html

[Sonic01]

interesting info,

 

ive got silicon, teflon and ceramic based lubricants atm and i dont feel like buying any more now, i'll make do with what ive got

 

but cheers for the info it may come in handy in future