Bullpup AK

[Dan_Breen]

Since you can't get the Smokey's AK470 kit any more, (that I know of), and nobody else makes one that doesn't cost an arm, leg and at least one internal organ, I'm having a crack at it.

 

Thanks to JonL and Froztblade for the inspiration and everyone who has contributed to their threads for further ideas.

 

 

This is what I'm aiming at.

The plan is to leave the motorcage where it is and build that area into the stock. I'll be using resin and twill cloth, (same as HS uses for his masks), to make the stock over a polystyrene blank I've begun to shape. Once the resin is set I plan to use a gentle solvent to disolve the polystyrene and (in theory), leave the resin un/not too badly-damaged.

 

Where I'm stuck is the trigger. I want to use an electronic switch but have absolutely NO idea about where to take the feed off from the motor and how to bypass the existing trigger. Any ideas please?

 

Will get the first pics up when I get home from work.

 

Thanks,

Dan

[spetsnazdave87]

You know someones selling the smokeys AK on this very forum at the moment

 

Tell a lie not on this forum, here:

 

http://zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?t=42012...ight=bullpup+ak

[renegadecow]

Firstly, that stock is waaay too long, unless you're 7 feet tall. That's equal to adding 6" more to the typical length of pull of an AK.

 

For the electronic trigger, you can rewire the entire gearbox to an electronic switch to where the new trigger is located. Basically you just solder off the connection from the existing switch and put them on (extended wires of course) the new switch. With this setup, however, you will only have two firing modes: safe and full auto. To get your semi auto back electronically, you'll need a 3-way switch as a selector (safe, semi, auto) and a custom jobbie burst circuit. When the selector is placed on semi, the burst circuit comes into play and will stop the gun from firing at the given burst setting. Place it on full auto and the burst circuit is bypassed by a direct circuit which stops the gun from firing when you release the trigger.

[ED-SKaR]

 

The "trigger" on an AEG gearbox is INSIDE, and the trigger you can see is a physical switch that trips the trigger, to engage a forward trigger you should use a physical metal bar or similar to push back on with your new trigger that trips the gearboxes trigger.

 

However, if you want to use an electrical switch at the front the easyest way is to just wire a switch at the trigger directly to the battery and motor. You would get only full auto, if thats all you want then there is no problem but people like me frown on a gun not having a saftey selector. Of corse having a second swith to act as a saftey, or building a physical block for your new trigger would be quite simple.

 

Third option is using a mosfet of some type, certain ones are capable of "timing" semi auto shots even when directly attached to the motor.

 

 

 

 

PS I also think the stock is far too long. I would recomend you build the front grips first, with the trigger mechanism, and then once that is done hold it up and judge how long the stock should be. If you do a quick bit of googling for bullpup AKs you will find that the stock pad is generally placed on the back of the reciever, rather than 6" behind it.

 

[Dan_Breen]

ARMS OF AN ORANGUTAN!!!!

 

Seriously though, the blank I started on last night is a bit smaller I think. I think the photos will make more sense.

Thanks for the suggestions on the trigger part though. More thought required.

 

Renegadecow - Don't suppose you have a circuit diagram handy do you please?

 

[spetsnazdave87]

By the way a horse with your name is running at the moment

[Dan_Breen]

You're the third person to mention that as well.

If it runs like I do it'll fall as it leaves the gate.

 

Unfortunately the Smokey's gun that's for sale falls under the Arm, leg, internal organ catagory at the moment, but the pictures the guy has put up clearly shows the rod going from the repositioned trigger to the location of the original trigger which is what I think ED-Skar was getting at. Ideally I'd like to avoid that but if that's the way to get it to work, so be it.

[renegadecow]

Hope paint will do. Easy to understand anyways.

[Dan_Breen]

Thanks.

[Dan_Breen]

OK, some pics of what I've done so far with the blank.

The stock mock up will be changing as it's probably about an inch too long for my arms, plus a bit too tall to make aiming comfortable.

 

- With the AK over layed

 

 

- Areas roughed out

 

 

- First Trim

 

 

- Stock in position with the mag release

 

 

- VERY rough mock up

[Sidewinder-forge]

This is what mine looks like, will hopefully be creating a conv kit in the not too distant future.

 

 

 

SAS

[Tom Andrews]

Dan, if you are using solvent to melt the foam, then the chances are the glass fibre resin will also melt the foam. So you will need to protect it.

 

I have previously used both brown packing tape and cling film as a sort of protective release agent between the male mould and the resin.

 

If you can get your hands on either blue building insulation foam or the tan Celotex insulation foam (building sites usually have large amounts of suitable offcuts, as its very expensive to buy) you will have a better medium for carving out the stock.

[Dan_Breen]

Thanks Tom.

[Dan_Breen]

Tried a smaller version of the stock last night:

 

 

and

 

 

For my arm length I think a stock somewhere between the two will be about right.

Again, trying to hold it as I would when playing, it seems that the foregrip and remaining barrel length might be a bit short to look quite right for me so some monkeying about with the front end will be needed.

[my_plague_666]

theres already a real bullpup AK

http://world.guns.ru/assault/AS68-E.HTM

looks a very easy design to copy.

[mikoyan99]

Theres 3 few I can think of off hand; more are out there:

http://www.dreadgazebo.com/gunporn/wp-cont.../11/type86s.jpg

Norinco type 86s

http://www.rusarmy.com/strelo/images/sgmk_oc-14_groza.gif

OC-14 groza

http://world.guns.ru/assault/VEPR1.JPG

Vepr. This looks the most doable tbh.

Hope that helps,

-Matt

 

Edit: just seen your post plague; wouldn't load before.

[my_plague_666]

Theres 3 few I can think of off hand; more are out there:

http://www.dreadgazebo.com/gunporn/wp-cont.../11/type86s.jpg

Norinco type 86s

http://www.rusarmy.com/strelo/images/sgmk_oc-14_groza.gif

OC-14 groza

http://world.guns.ru/assault/VEPR1.JPG

Vepr. This looks the most doable tbh.

Hope that helps,

-Matt

 

Edit: just seen your post plague; wouldn't load before.

 

would have posted the OC14 or the type 86, but they're really not feasible (at least with a V3 GB, besides who the hell would want a type 86? )

[mikoyan99]

True; not to any degree of accuracy anyway, although gas would work.

Did anyone use the type 86 or was it just a random export gun?

-Matt

 

Edit: export only.

[Dan_Breen]

I'm not great at 100% accurate builds but the Vepr is a good inspiration.

Cheers guys.

[my_plague_666]

to be honest, the vepr looks a tad rough round the edges already. it probably wouldnt be too hard to copy and wouldnt need to look flawless.

[Spooros]

Hows the build going?

[Dan_Breen]

Some more pics to go up this evening.

Some guestimation on the Trigger housing area and some thoughts on Safety switches as I suspect that this will end up as a full auto only build.

Plus soem starting work on the grips.