WE AK PMC Shattering BBs

[Sturm]

That spring is visibly broken. It lacks almost the whole leg

Bloody hell...

 

Well, at least *suitcasey* Evike stocks replacements for it, so I don't have to pay 20$ to ship a 3$ part from Hong Kong.

 

Once I get a new one, how does it install? The same as I found it, albeit with a longer leg on the other side?

[Dimitri MdP]

yup

[renegadecow]

Interesting.

I believe that sear was never part of the AK47, but was added to the AKM trigger mechanism to slow the rate of fire. Ancedotal evidence suggests that it doesn't.

But it has a usefull function in the GBBR.

Who woulf have guesed?

That's an entirely different part which replaces the right side hook of the trigger.

[Sturm]

Okay, so after a few nerve wracking hours, I actually managed to put that pot metal piece of *suitcase* together again.

 

Anyways, yeah, I'm still *fruitcage*ed. The gun won't shoot now, because the firing pin is loose and not actuating. What the *fruitcage*?!!! The fun never ends...

 

In the video, near the end (around 12:00) when he puts the second piece of the box on, I have tried, it is practically impossible to do it. The only way I was able to do it was preinstall the firing pin (which I probably did wrong, but it looked alright to me), and insert it, and then press everything down and drop the trigger, which makes the 'wall' piece go flush and be able to be screwed in. I suspect this is what caused the firing pin to be installed incorrectly. I'll have to take it apart again, and somehow manage to install the firing pin again. It now literally behaves like the disconnector. No spring tension at all. It just slides around if I hold the gun at an angle. UGHHHH.......

 

And, to make matters worse, all of this *suitcase* was completely unnecessary. I didn't need to gut the trigger box to get at the disconnector and the disconnector spring. The latter is held in by a bucking-like pin. It is very hard to see (as it is found in what otherwise looks like a screw hole), but it can be taken out, and the entire disconnector removed just like that. If only I knew...

[DrAlexanderTobacco]

Honestly man just pay some money to take it to a tech. When he fixes it get him to show you how it was done.

[Sturm]

Honestly man just pay some money to take it to a tech. When he fixes it get him to show you how it was done.

I'm really stubborn, if you cannot make that assumption already.

 

I have no clue where I'll find a tech. I live in a snowy tundra. Airsoft is not really a thing. Besides, the techs that exist are probably AEG techs. They'll not be able to work in a GBBR.

 

I need to do this myself. I am just a bit lost. I need some guidance, lol. A lot of it.

[Dimitri MdP]

If I find the time this weekend, I'll open my AK and make a video and some pics. Probably. 

The firing pin spring should be pretty easy to put back in place. Just put the hammer first, then insert the 90º leg of the firing pin spring into the only hole where it can fit, and slide the firing pin in making sure the long leg of the spring goes trhough it. Then goes the *whatever is called that little piece that pushes up the firing pin when mag is empty*

Reinstalling the left part of the housing is really tricky. Did it a gazillion times, still struggle an curse all gods every time. You should press the valve locker down as you are reinstalling that part, and fiddle everything until it magically drops in. 

[Sturm]

If I find the time this weekend, I'll open my AK and make a video and some pics. Probably.

The firing pin spring should be pretty easy to put back in place. Just put the hammer first, then insert the 90º leg of the firing pin spring into the only hole where it can fit, and slide the firing pin in making sure the long leg of the spring goes trhough it. Then goes the *whatever is called that little piece that pushes up the firing pin when mag is empty*

Reinstalling the left part of the housing is really tricky. Did it a gazillion times, still struggle an curse all gods every time. You should press the valve locker down as you are reinstalling that part, and fiddle everything until it magically drops in.

 

Oh snap.

 

That must be why my firing pin is all wonky. I didn't put any spring into it. In the video, the guy just says to put that spring on top of the hammer. He never said it was supposed to mount in a spot in the firing pin. That must be why it is not working. Or is it a different spring I am referring to? There is an indent in the firing pin that clutches a certain spring, but I do not know if this is the one you are referring to. If that is the correct spring, I did install it correctly to my knowledge. It just glides on the spring though. It does not apply any tension...

 

I shouldn't need to drop the hammer to get everything flat, right? If I am installing everything correctly, the side piece should eventually, tediously, fit back on again?

 

Another perspective would be really useful, since I am really unsure of how effective the methods the video showed were. I am certainly not expecting anything from you. If you have the time, a video would be great!

 

I also emailed RA Tech (AST), and asked if I could possibly buy a pre-upgraded trigger box from them. I suppose, absolute worst case scenario, I could get another one that already has the RA Tech trigger set installed.

 

Also, can you maybe get a picture of how your disconnector and disconnector spring is seated?

[Dimitri MdP]

My camera is not working now, it would have made this whole process much easier.. 

Anyway. there are 2 springs that interact with the firing pin.

Part #101, which goes on the outside of the trigger box, in a groove that perfectly matches it, and fits above a cutout in the firing pin to pull it back down after you got the "click" from an empty magazine



And Part #93, which iirc goes around a sort of pin, fitting the 90º arm in a hole. You just let the long leg rest on the hammer temporarily, then insert the part I don't know how it's called, and finally when putting the firing pin on, the long leg of spring #93 should go through that square cutout in the middle of the firing pin. This is the one that actually resets the firing pin after each shot.




hope that helps.

[Sturm]

My camera is not working now, it would have made this whole process much easier..

Anyway. there are 2 springs that interact with the firing pin.

Part #101, which goes on the outside of the trigger box, in a groove that perfectly matches it, and fits above a cutout in the firing pin to pull it back down after you got the "click" from an empty magazine

And Part #93, which iirc goes around a sort of pin, fitting the 90º arm in a hole. You just let the long leg rest on the hammer temporarily, then insert the part I don't know how it's called, and finally when putting the firing pin on, the long leg of spring #93 should go through that square cutout in the middle of the firing pin. This is the one that actually resets the firing pin after each shot.

hope that helps.

Yeah, so #93 was not installed correctly. The video I think completely skips it. It does not mention putting that spring like that. It only mentions propping it up on top of the hammer (the long leg).

 

 

Will you still possibly make a video? Not a big deal if you do not have the time, but I really think a better video would be useful.

[Sturm]

I managed to install the *bramston pickle* right this time. It's all good now besides the disconnector. Mostly.

 

The firing pin springs itself back now, as it should. However, if I attempt to fire, and cock the gun, it will not shoot.

 

If I cock the rifle before I insert a magazine, I can fire completely normally. What gives? I've noticed that when I insert the magazine and rack the bolt, the firing pin does not travel as far back as it should, meaning it prevents it from firing. If, on the other hand, I rack the bolt and then insert the magazine, the firing pin acts normally and I can fire. Why is this happening?

 

*fruitcage* hell. Why do I have such *suitcase* luck? Whenever I fix one issue another one manifests. When will it end?

[Sturm]

Here is a video of what I'm describing above:

 

https://youtu.be/1m4-Cxj1zZU

 

What the hell?!!

[Dimitri MdP]

Probably spring #101 out of place. Or something missaligned in the firing pin and valve locker assembly

[Sturm]

Probably spring #101 out of place. Or something missaligned in the firing pin and valve locker assembly

I did place #101 in its respective cutout. Its long leg is sitting in the firing pin indentation that applies tension to it. I cannot recall anything being misused.

 

The valve locker to my knowledge was installed correctly. I guess its spring could have gotten loose during the tedious installation of the 'wall' piece of the trigger box. If that did happen though, I don't think the firing pin would have stayed in place. The firing pin itself appears to be acting as it should, except when a magazine is inserted before the hammer is armed. What does this imply? A problem with the firing pin installation, or another part that interacts with the firing pin?

 

I've basically had enough of this . RA Tech can get me a trigger box and install the upgraded trigger set for 110$ bucks. I'll give it a few more days, but I am so tired of all these bloody 'issues.' All I want is a functional gun...

[renegadecow]

Is your trigger box still intact? With the RATech bits in I'm thinking the knocker is snagging on something (like a broken section) so it won't reset all the way back.

[Sturm]

Is your trigger box still intact? With the RATech bits in I'm thinking the knocker is snagging on something (like a broken section) so it won't reset all the way back.

Yes, the trigger box itself is intact.

 

The valve knocker spring has a very small section partially uncoiled. I don't believe it was previously like that, but it occurred as a result of my installation. I tend to force the valve knocker in under the pressure of the spring below it, and part of the spring lodges itself upwards, which I then push back down. This might have caused that slight deformity. Could something like that snag on the valve knocker?

 

Should I just give up? Every time I take it apart I screw another thing up. Should I just fork over the 100$ dollars to Airsoft Taiwan so they can ship me a new trigger box with the RA Tech trigger set already installed?

[renegadecow]

Wait, how is your knocker spring jumping upwards? It has its coils anchored on a peg.

[Sturm]

Wait, how is your knocker spring jumping upwards? It has its coils anchored on a peg.

Does it? I'm not sure to be honest.

 

Either way, that is how I installed the knocker. Maybe I should have used different words to describe it. Basically, I just forced the valve knocker in, and sometimes, but not always, the spring in its space below would go in between the spaces left open. I would then just push it back in and the valve knocker would be seated correctly - to my knowledge.

 

Really though, should I focus on procuring a new trigger box with all the TCG upgrades pre-installed?

[Dimitri MdP]

Think you're mixing "valve knocker" (which is the firing pin) with "valve locker", that is the part with a compression spring that goes in the left side of the trigger housing.

Anyway, check if the problem persist when inserting a magazine with the switches set to dry fire more. (upper switch back, rear switch down). Or with the mag actually loaded. If that fixes it, then it's failing to reset the firing pin down after the anti dry fire mechanism is engaged.

BTW, If what you want is a working gun, I would have avoided RA-Tech in the first place. Probably all of this started by an out of spec full auto sear and/or hammer, or bad installation. 

---------

You should not give up. And definitely spending $110 to and go with RA-Tech again is a stupid decision, with all due respect.  Just look at the gun with the parts list and take your time to understand how everything works there. Open the box again and check the status of every spring, replace with a spare from Evike whichever you deem dubious. 

I'll be making a disassembly / reassembly video this weekend, probably in Spanish with English subtitles so I can use it in my channel... but if you don't have it fixed by then, I think it will help.

[Sturm]

Think you're mixing "valve knocker" (which is the firing pin) with "valve locker", that is the part with a compression spring that goes in the left side of the trigger housing.

Anyway, check if the problem persist when inserting a magazine with the switches set to dry fire more. (upper switch back, rear switch down). Or with the mag actually loaded. If that fixes it, then it's failing to reset the firing pin down after the anti dry fire mechanism is engaged.

BTW, If what you want is a working gun, I would have avoided RA-Tech in the first place. Probably all of this started by an out of spec full auto sear and/or hammer, or bad installation.

---------

You should not give up. And definitely spending $110 to and go with RA-Tech again is a stupid decision, with all due respect. Just look at the gun with the parts list and take your time to understand how everything works there. Open the box again and check the status of every spring, replace with a spare from Evike whichever you deem dubious.

I'll be making a disassembly / reassembly video this weekend, probably in Spanish with English subtitles so I can use it in my channel... but if you don't have it fixed by then, I think it will help.

In that case, yeah, I messed it up. I was referring to the valve blocker when I was talking about the spring.

 

I double checked and put the bugger back together again. Everything seems to be working, except the firing problem still remains. I think I have an idea what is causing it however. On a side note, dry fire and non-dry fire does not make any tangible difference. When the magazine is put in and the charging handle pulled and hammer armed, the firing pin does not 'spring' itself back to the length it should. I believe this is related to a piece that is situated on the same pin / bar that #93 is. For whatever reason, this part seems to block the firing pin in this scenario.

 

I do not know what the part is called, but the left side of the receiver hosts a piece of pot metal that is below the firing pin. This piece is blocking the firing pin from resetting / springing back properly when a magazine is inserted before arming the hammer. I think it is located too far below the top of the magazine that it is not working correctly. If I insert the magazine, pull the bolt back, release, and see that the firing pin / valve knocker is not back completely, and release the magazine, the firing pin will suddenly go back into place correctly. It is hard to explain. I think I know what is causing it, I just cannot fix it. I'll upload another video. If I do the exact same thing, and fiddle with the magazine as it is locked in the magwell, I will eventually get the firing pin to reset back fully.

 

 

[renegadecow]

Don't get the complete trigger box because if and when that gives, as many would agree can be caused by poor RATech hammer tolerances, you'll need to root in there again either to do the epoxy reinforcement/fix or drop in a new casing.

[Sturm]

Don't get the complete trigger box because if and when that gives, as many would agree can be caused by poor RATech hammer tolerances, you'll need to root in there again either to do the epoxy reinforcement/fix or drop in a new casing.

I thought RA Tech is generally pretty reliable? What's the deal?

 

Yeah, I'll try to fix it first, but at some point I need to consider other options. What do you think is going on? Anything specific shown in my videos above?

 

I've usually heard criticism of the stock WE internals. Did not know RA Tech has a bad reputation. Don't most agree that the RA Tech trigger set and assembly are basically essential in the WE AKs?

[Dimitri MdP]

Nope. Having upgraded more than 10 WE AKs, I can say without a doubt that RA-Tech is the worse of all upgrades available. 

A steel FCG is certainly needed, but WII-Tech, WE's own steel CNC fcg, and Hephaestus (in that order in my experience) are easier to fit and more reliable than RA-Tech. I would take a stock pot metal WE over a RA any day. If I had a dime for every time someone breaks their gun from going to RA-Tech "upgrades" when there was really no need for such thing, I would probably have much more WE guns

[renegadecow]

Sorry, but your vid was pretty hard to watch with your phone constantly moving on/off the gun and in/out of focus. Would be better to post really clear stills.

[Sturm]

Nope. Having upgraded more than 10 WE AKs, I can say without a doubt that RA-Tech is the worse of all upgrades available.

A steel FCG is certainly needed, but WII-Tech, WE's own steel CNC fcg, and Hephaestus (in that order in my experience) are easier to fit and more reliable than RA-Tech. I would take a stock pot metal WE over a RA any day. If I had a dime for every time someone breaks their gun from going to RA-Tech "upgrades" when there was really no need for such thing, I would probably have much more WE guns

Well, there is little point in going back now. I need to get that RA Tech stuff to work. You know, I always thought RA Tech made decent stuff. Don't they have at least an okay reputation?

 

I do own one WE steel upgrade part. The fire selector. I haven't seen a need to replace the pot metal one yet though. It's not really much of a concern.

 

I need to make the RA Tech trigger set work. Can I do that? What is making the firing pin behave as it is with a magazine in the gun? Are my videos clear enough for you to get anything out of them? Once I fix this bloody problem, then it is just the remaining matter of installing a new #103 disconnector spring. I ordered two from Evike yesterday. Hopefully it'll be over soon. What an ordeal...

 

Edit: This is the part that I think is causing issues - http://www.wiitech.com.hk/product-detail.shtml?product_id=602&path=57_152

 

I installed it the way the guy in that video a few pages back did. I don't believe I did anything wrong. However, it still basically blocks the firing pin from resetting completely when a magazine is in and the hammer is armed.

 

Are these WII Tech parts good?