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WE CT25 Colt Junior

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As many people hate on the WE brand, you have to give them credit in releasing the widest range of unique products (not including double barrel versions) with the latest release having the record as smallest GBB pistol: the CT25.

Known as the Colt Junior in real steel, it was originally a licensed copy of the Astra Cub from Spain in the 1950s. It came in .22LR and .25ACP, both holding 6+1 rounds with later produced mags holding 7+1. WE's replica can hold 7+1, comes in black or silver, with or without a threaded barrel and devoid of any markings aside from their logo on the grips. KY Airsoft however offer custom engraved models on their website ranging from the original Astra Cub to Colt licensed (early) and Colt produced (late) versions with accompanying custom logo medallions. I really wanted one of the traded ones at first but importing airsoft guns and even parts have become a pain in my country right now thanks to customs tightening up. Thankfully though one of the local shops brought these in and I quickly picked it up.





It is a freakishly tiny gun, slightly smaller even than the NBB 1908 Vest Pocket Hammerless by HFC and SRC, however this does provide enough space on the frame for a two fingered grip with the pinky under the base plate whereas the 1908 only has space for one (pinky and ring finger under the base plate). Being small, everything inside pertaining to GBB functionality is equally in miniature including the blowback unit so recoil is very mild but pleasantly snappy enough. It has a manual safety on the left side which doubles as a slide catch but does not lock the slide back on empty. Instead, when out of bbs, the hammer falls without firing the gun just like the real one does with the chamber empty. It also has a magazine safety which prevents the trigger from moving when the magazine is out of the gun. It shoots an average of 226fps with .20g bbs at 27C and holds enough gas for 30+ rounds which is nothing short of mind boggling given the size of the mag! The hop-up is adjustable via a screw on top of the outer barrel but is of the AWSS design as conventional Tokyo Marui style hop rubbers are simply too big to fit. The sites are a simple ramp front and notch rear but are low and hard to see; guns this size are more suitable for point shooting anyway. Despite that it shoots relatively accurately (while straining the eyes) grouping 5" at 10m however this was after fixing a problem with the outer barrel which I'll discuss more later. To disassemble, remove the magazine and lock the slide back. Rotate the barrel 90 degrees CCW then pull it out 2/3 the way then rotate it back 90 degrees CW and it should pull out of the slide the rest of the way. Disengage the slide lock and the slide can be pulled away from the frame. The recoil spring and guide are not captive but their ends are tight against each other so the two will want to stay on the slide.



More on the barrel problem, when I got mine about 1 in 5 shots would veer completely to the left. Checking the muzzle showed that the bbs were indeed hitting the right part of the barrel. To keep with appearances, the crown and fake rifling are .25ACP which is just about as big as a 6mm bb and one of the rifling lands probably had too thick a coat of silver plating that it got in the way. To sort this out I wrapped some 800 grit sandpaper around the smooth end of a 5mm drill bit and sanded down the rifling a hair. I had to take the inner barrel and hop rubber out first so I wouldn't have to worry about scratching or dirtying them up.



One more issue that's come up recently now that I've used it some is not having the slide cycle on the last round. It was also shooting a little lower at about 200fps which led me to believe that the valve knocker was only making a glancing blow on the valve. While hardly a deal breaker as the gun still technically spits out the last round, I decided to try and fix it. I figured that the ball-detent inside the magazine had broken in enough (it was the only part that appeared to have any real wear) that it took less pressure from the bb follower to trip the knocker disconnect in the gun. This resulted in prematurely tripping the disconnect function so the valve knocker doesn't get to depress the valve deep enough for the knocker lock/delayer to engage and cycle the slide. To fix it, I cut off about 0.5mm from the top of the bb follower (highlighted in red) where it pushes the silver lever up. You can access the bb follower from the side by removing the plate but be careful of the ball bearing under the silver lever as it's very small. You could also access the bb follower from below by removing the pinned base plate.


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