KWA G23f & G19 - Rocket Valve Replacements

[Sale]

Seems to me from my limited experience that a busted rocket valve won't cause venting problems. If anything, it'll prevent the gun from cycling properly. A thwack of the hammer on the output valve should release the same amount of gas no matter what, unless there's something wrong with the valve, the hammer/spring, or both...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not true. The hammer pushes the valve in and it stays compressed until the slide trips a button that lets the valve close. If the slide doesn't travel back far enough, it just might cock the hammer but leave the valve open -> dumping gas. A busted rocket valve allows gas to flow out of the nozzle when it should only force the slide back. The pressure drop causes the slide to cycle improperly -> valve stays open -> dumps gas.

 

You can check what I just said by taking off the magazinbe and slide, and pulling the trigger. Then cock the hammer by hand. You'll see that the "firing pin" in the mag well will push the valve until you press the button on the left side of the firing mechanism.

 

If you take the barrel out of the slide and look carefully into the nozzle, you might be able to see if the rocket valve is broken or not. Usually the end bit and spring stay inside the nozzle, but the shaft with three fins shoots out of the barrel and you won't find it.

 

-Sale

[Zero_DgZ]

Hmm. Doesn't the magazine have enough pressure to close its valve after the hammer loses its inertia? I thought that was the point of the whole stronger hammer spring... thing.

 

After I recock the hammer on my G18 (took me a bit of fooling to get it to drop with no slide) the little striker below does indeed stay down, but it only takes the most miniscule of touches to knock it back into its resting position. If I don't recock the hammer it's a lot harder to press back in, and holding the disconnector down with the tip of a chopstick (laugh) and shooting the thing off without a slide doesn't immediately vent the magazine, but it will after two simulated shots or so.

 

So I take back what I said and/or thought. Methinks a partial cycle might not, but a total failure to cycle could vent your magazine.

[Sale]

Hmm. Doesn't the magazine have enough pressure to close its valve after the hammer loses its inertia? I thought that was the point of the whole stronger hammer spring... thing.

To tell you the truth, I'm not sure. The point of a stronger hammer spring seems to be that it opens the valve quicker. In some cases the original hammer spring doesn't even have sufficient force to open the valve if there's strong gas in the magazine.

Still, there's the valve lock. It's on the magazine (WA and Tanaka GBB's), or in the firing mechanism (all others). It keeps the valve open even if the hammer is fully cocked after falling on the valve. Once the valve is open, the hammer seizes to have any effect on it.

 

After I recock the hammer on my G18 (took me a bit of fooling to get it to drop with no slide) the little striker below does indeed stay down, but it only takes the most miniscule of touches to knock it back into its resting position. If I don't recock the hammer it's a lot harder to press back in, and holding the disconnector down with the tip of a chopstick (laugh) and shooting the thing off without a slide doesn't immediately vent the magazine, but it will after two simulated shots or so.

Ah the full auto models - there's the full auto sear on the left side of the hammer. Shoulda reminded you of that, since this topic originally was about the G23F.

Are you sure there's nothing wrong with your gun? All my KSC/KWA Glocks hit the firing pin into the magazine well pretty hard, and I can't push them back without cocking the hammer and depressing the small button on the left side of the firing mechanism.

The fact that your gun doesn't vent the magazine immediately is a symptom of a too light hammer spring in relation to gas pressure. Let me guess, stock hammer spring and green gas (or equally strong gas)? The hammer doesn't push the valve all the way in because the spring isn't strong enough. Therefore it doesn't lock. When shooting normally, this shows as a few sluggish shots in the beginning on the magazine. When the pressure drops a little bit, the gun resumes normal firing.

 

-Sale

[Zero_DgZ]

Aye, my upgrade parts haven't arrived yet so it's bone stock and I run propane in it.

 

Edit: Mine allows the retraction of the little striker very easily if I manually recock the hammer without touching anything else. I don't know if this behavior is normal.

[engelbert]

so well. is there a tutorial or a howto to actually replace the plastic one with the metall one, because i cant find one!

[Sale]

For a full auto or semi auto Glock?

 

For the semiautomatic it's really easy. You take one screw out and the GBB mechanism will almost fall out of the slide. Take the loading nozzle off, and push the cross-pin out through it. Make sure it comes out from the side that's serrated on the pin. You can see it from behind. At this point the old rocket valve will come out, just replace it with the new one and assemble.

 

-Sale

[engelbert]

uh sorry i did not mention

i have a ksc glock 23f

so it is full automatik!

[Sale]

Well then, you need to slide the rear sight to the right a little bit. It will reveal a very small (0.5mm) set screw. The gun should have been supplied with a very small allen key. Use that one to loosen the screw a little bit, until the pin in the rear face of the slide falls out. Might need to give it a couple of taps. You should then be able to pull out the selector switch. Watch out for a small ball bearing and spring.

 

From there it's the same as for semiautomatic models.

 

-Sale