Headhunter3 Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 Yeah, after looking up the HK416 a bit, I am starting to think about making a Blackwater USA kit. Some 5.11 pants, a MOLLE vest and a pair of shooting glasses and I am off to a good start for a pennysofter. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yeah you could do that, and, rumor has it that D*L*A and some other invisible units have adopted the HK416 as well..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pingpong Posted March 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 (edited) heres mine. simple and easy to use. just need some sort of optic... and rail covers or ribs. External: G&P crane G&P SPR Grip G&P Troy Flashider Knights armament Vert grip Edited March 22, 2007 by pingpong Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Headhunter3 Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 very nice, i like the flash hider. ive been looking to change out the standard one as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pingpong Posted March 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 yea its pretty nice.. i can beat some heads with it. nice n spiked =] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-[K!LLA]- Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 (edited) Well, after installing a Systema siwtch assembly (and a ball bearing spring guide, metal bushings, Duracon ball bearing piston head and a KA selector plate) I thought that everything would shoot normally (no more siezing in full-auto). Amazingly, my HK416 doesn't sieze up in full auto, but unfotunately, when I switch it into semi, the gun decides to shoot full auto. Thankfully, auto shoots auto, but here's the wierd part: When I flip it to semi, I can shoot it in semi as long as I don't pull the trigger all the way back. If I pull it all the way back, it fires in full auto. I'm thinking it has something to do with the cut-off lever possibly not making good contact with the sector gear and/or the switch assembly. So what should I do/replace? P.S. This is really frustrating because 1) if you pay $490 for an airsoft gun, it should come perfect 2) if you purchase upgrade parts to fix previous problems only to be greeted by new problems, it starts getting ridiculous. At least the externals look good...especially with an M68 Aimpoint Thanks! Edited March 26, 2007 by -[K!LLA]- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AirRage Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 (edited) Updated Pic with Gaurder High Mount! Edited March 26, 2007 by AirRage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
0nslaught Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Heh, it looks like you got two HK416's , nice gun Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Headhunter3 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 very nice. the crane stock looks good. i really want that front sight on mine..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pingpong Posted March 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 nice. someone needs to get a pic up with a EOTech hah Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge133 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Hey everyone, after looking up the G&P stock I found it takes Deans connectors. But how would I go about charging one of these babies? I use just a normal wall charger if thats any help. If I need to get a new charger for it, please remember I am VERY pressed on money for this project as is. As in, MAYBE being able to spend $20-$30 on something like this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pingpong Posted March 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 G&P gives u an extra connector + wires so u can convert ur charger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Headhunter3 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 nice. someone needs to get a pic up with a EOTech hah <{POST_SNAPBACK}> ask and you shall receive...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge133 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 So...I'd have to cut the Large bit of my charger off, and soldier (sp?) on the Deans? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Headhunter3 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 if its like what i have. the other side of the deans has a large connector that connects to the battery part and then deans connects to the deans on your battery Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pingpong Posted March 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 So...I'd have to cut the Large bit of my charger off, and soldier (sp?) on the Deans? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yup.. just Cut, solder and shrink wrap (or E-tape.. ) Headhunter3: i didnt wish for a bushnell... jk haha.. Nice gun! hmm.. now what optics should I get... i guess imma wait a few months.. im broke right now.. heh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge133 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Well, now all I have to do is wait. I am waiting for my birthday so I can use the $400 I have saved and get $300 from my relatives. Why cant April hurry up? I want this gun so bad! You guys have no clue how envious I am of you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Headhunter3 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Headhunter3: i didnt wish for a bushnell... jk haha.. Nice gun! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> LOL.....sorry, its all i got. i spent all my money on the hurricane kit.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HKG36 Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Aalright guysI'am going to be ordering a Systema Low Resistance Switch Assembly and I'am wondering how do I install it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 (edited) I just replaced my switch - worked beautifully. What I did was: I took the VFC switch out, which if you're familiar with a V2 gearbox at all, shouldn't be a problem - it's just one screw holding it in, after you get the wires all out of their channels. Then, I unscrewed the face plate from the VFC switch, and carefully removed all the contacts and wires. I then did the same to the Systema switch, and transfered everything from the VFC to the Systema - this way, I did not need to get a Systema selector plate. Now, the newly assembled switch was a little too big vertically to fit back in, so a little sanding took care of that until I was able to fit it in. There were also a few little nubs on the back that are not present on the VFC - again, sanding them off took care of that. Buttoned it back up, and now the gun shoots beautifully. However, for the life of me, I could not figure out a way to wire it to the stock, there was not nearly enough room to route the wires back through the gearbox, and the body is sooo tight around the mechbox that externally routing it didn't seem to work either. Those of you who have rewired it to the stock - did you snip the round plugs off the gearbox and solder it to new wires? Did you keep your fuse? What's the best "channel" to get the wires to the rear? I've seen several methods discussed in this thread, but none of them worked for me at all for some reason, and I spent hours on this yesterday... Edited March 26, 2007 by n00bTard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HKG36 Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Ok what kind of switch assembly do I need to use,the one meant for the M4A1,XM177,CAR15, or the one meant for all ver 2 gearboxes except the M4A1,XM177,CAR15?Also howox before and Ii hard is it rewire as I have never opened a gearbox before and I'am debating if I should just have a shop do it for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 The only difference between the two, is that the one is designed to route the battery connection wires forward to the handguard, the other routes them back to the stock. Here's my findings: You'll need a systema selector plate, unless you swap the wires around within the plastic switch assembly like I did. But, then if you do that, you're definitely still routing the wires forward to the handguard, and not back to the stock. Also, you end up still using the round VFC connections to the fuse. You could snip and solder these to longer wires and different plugs though and route it however you like. This is what I was going to try, but could not find a route that I was comfortable with that wouldn't crush the wires. If you keep the systema switch and wires, they have more universal connections that you can use with whatever wiring you like, or solder straight to some tamiya connections. Either way, the systema switch "casing" will need some mods to fit. If you get the one meant to route to the stock: once in the gearbox, I found the channels to route wires waaay too small to try and route the wires through the box and out the back. If anyone has accomplished this, please let me know how you did it! If you're comfortable with V2 gearboxes, it's a very simple fix. However, getting the gearbox out of this gun I've found to quite a PITA. I would not recommend this for your first experience taking an M4-style gun and gearbox apart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 (edited) Holy doublepostingdouchenozzle forums Batman. Edited March 27, 2007 by n00bTard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alpha54 Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 If you've never opened a gear box before, I'd recommend having the shop do it for you. The switch assembly you need is the version for the M4A1, XM177 and CAR15. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HKG36 Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 Hmm I think I will go with the Laylax Type-E battery box as I won't have to rewire the gun.Also since I'am going with this instead I should use the one meant fot the M4A1 correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
n00bTard Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 That is correct Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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