WA 1911 SCW2 take down & reassembly guide

[Catman]

This guide is for taking apart the hammer/sear and trigger systems of a Western Arms Colt 1911 SCW2 series pistol and then putting it back together again.

 

This guide is intended to help people put in upgrade/replacement parts - all parts in this guide are stock

 

If you're after a Guide is dissembling the Slide check out this great video from Airsoft-Innovations: http://airsoft-innovations.com/vids/fr_scw_lg.mov

 

 

I'm not too sure if SCW2's transitional hammer system is the same as SCW3 but I'm lead to believe the two are very similiar - so this might be of use to SCW3 owners.

 

**NOTE**

Pictures are externally hosted, pictures shown in this post are thumbnails - click for a larger higher-definition images.

 

Taking it Apart:

Once the slide and grips are off, we're left with the basic frame:

 

 

To get it all apart we need to remove the pin that holds the Main Spring block in, push this out with a screw driver:

 

 

You might need to gently hammer the pin out. Once the pin is out the Main Spring housing will be free to slide out:

 

 

With the Main Spring Housing removed we need to remove the safety grip. In order to do this cock the hammer back and push the safety catch into the "safe" position:

 

 

Now grip the safety catch and pull, you might need to wiggle it a bit. Carful as the pin and spring will fly out.

 

 

The Safety Grip is now free to be removed, so take that out and the 3-spring plate (whatever that's really called):

 

 

Take out the Hammer Pin, this will be quite loose and is normally held in place by the Safety Catch so you should just be able to push it gently through with a small screw driver:

 

 

Now take the Hammer out the back:

 

 

Remove the Sear Pin, this should be just as loose as the Hammer pin:

 

[Catman]

Now four parts and a spring are ready to come out, these are ready to fall out and should come out just by tilting the frame around:

 

 

So now the Hammer/Sear parts are out...

 

 

It's time to remove the Trigger but first the Magazine Catch needs to be removed. Push the Mag Catch in (as if you were taking a mag out):

 

 

Keep your finger pressing on the mag catch, with a small screw driver turn the screw anti-clockwise:

 

 

The Mag Catch is now free to be removed:

 

 

Take the trigger out of the back

 

 

There you go, your WA 1911 is totally gutted

[Catman]

Upgrading the Hammer?

If not you can skip to the next post.

 

Some new Hammers lack a few parts; the bearing and spring can be quite common. Some hammers are missing everything.

 

So it'll be necessary to take apart the old Hammer: You'll need a small screw driver or something to push out the pins on the hammer. In the following examples I used a small Allen Key/Hex Wench:

 

 

Push out the Hammer Strut pin first:

 

 

Now take off the Hammer Strut and gently tap the back of the hammer, the bearing should drop out (make sure you do this so you won't loose the bearing!). You'll most likely need to remove the spring with a screw driver:

 

 

 

I'll leave the rest up to you

[Catman]

Putting it back Together:

 

Take your empty frame and stick the Trigger back in, it can only go in one way:

 

 

Next put the Mag Catch back in:

 

 

And turn the screw clockwise to make the Mag Catch lock into place

 

 

Now we want to put the Sear parts back in place, remember these bits?

 

 

We want the small spring. Place it here on the frame:

 

 

Now get the Part 1 of the Trigger Disengage system (that's this bit):

 

 

And that goes here, on top of the spring we just put in:

 

[Catman]

Now push it down with your finger and get the second part of it (that's this bit):

 

 

You want to place it in this hole (which is the hole on the first part):

 

 

like so...

 

 

Once it's in you can take your finger off, it will spring up slightly to this position:

 

 

At this point it's best to keep the gun flat on the table, move it around will only make the bits fall out.

 

Next take the Mag Valve Release and place it in the gun (that's this bit):

 

 

And that goes in here, it just drops in and sits all on it's own:

 

 

Next up is the Sear:

 

 

Use a pair of needle pliers, keep the gun flat on the table and put the Sear in place:

 

[Catman]

You want the holes to be lined up, once they are let go with the pliers.

 

 

Now drop the Sear Pin in:

 

 

All those parts are locked into place now. You can move the Sear around to it's correct position now, although at this stage it's not vitally important but it's a good idea to do it now:

 

 

Now it's time to put the Hammer in. Get the hammer so it's like this, with the Hammer Strut out like so:

 

 

The Hammer Strut has to go through this gap:

 

 

Once the Hammer is in position put in the Hammer Pin. Check the Hammer Strut is in the right place:

 

[Catman]

Now it's time to put the 3-spring plate in:

 

 

And that goes in like so:

 

 

Getting the gun back together from this point can be a little tricky, the 3-spring plate usually buckle out of position. The best way I've found to avoid this is to partially install the Main Spring Housing block, like so:

 

 

Note: I've not put the Main Spring Housing pin in and you don't want to either

 

Now get the Safety Grip ready:

 

 

And the Slide/Safety Catch pin-spring system:

 

 

Install that into it's housing:

 

 

And put the Safety Grip in like this:

 

 

Now grip the Safety Grip and push it into the back of the gun. Make sure the Main Spring Housing isn't stopping it going all the way in. Also make sure that the Main Spring Housing isn't too far down so that it's not covering the 3-spring plate.

 

With the Safety Grip in position, push the Main Spring Housing up into the gun - so it's holes line up with the frame:

 

 

Now put in the Main Spring Housing pin in:

 

[Catman]

Grip the Safety Grip again and line up the holes for the Safety Catch:

 

 

Once the holes are lined up drop the Safety Catch in.

 

Note: you won't be able to put the Safety Catch all the way in just yet.

 

 

With a screw driver push the Pin in and push/wiggle the Safety Catch into position.

 

Note: the safety catch needs to go in on the "safe" position, so don't wiggle is too much if you're having a job getting it in.

 

 

 

That's it. Test it all out now; cock the hammer, grip it normally and pull the trigger.

 

Slap the grips and slide on and you're ready to go

[phoenix360mute]

thank god you posted this, it turns out all my problems were from putting the metal bit with the three things (i dont know what its called either) in first.

i love you catman

[Qhs]

o.O I can finally put my 3 year old metal frame to use. Time to get to work.

[Catman]

o.O I can finally put my 3 year old metal frame to use. Time to get to work.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Don't forget to post pics

[Qhs]

 

 

 

 

 

Is it supposed to look like this inside?

 

 

Everytime I try to put just the broken safety bolt through the bezel, I push the bezel in and it gets stuck and also the trigger gets stuck. The only way is to get everything moving again is to remove the broken safety bolt. I folloed your directions 100%. Any ideas? Oh is it possible to buy a replacement safety?

[Catman]

Yeah there's a few replacement Safety Catches knocking around. Sheriff make a few: http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?c...f%20.45%20Parts Did you break the safety just now?

 

Also without the safety catch in there those pins are going to fall right out.

 

That looks ok for the inside but you have to have the slide off and have the hammer cocked back to put the safety back in.

 

Sounds like the 3-spring plate might be twisted/out of position.

 

Did you have this trouble when trying to fit it in a metal frame? Metal Frames are sometimes a pain - mine required some minor filing in places to get it to fit

 

 

My two 1911's:

[n00b3r]

Thank you soo much for this guide! This is going to help me put on my full metal kit for the TLE/RL II. Btw, how's your TLE holding up?

[Qhs]

I really didn't run into major fitting issues. The 3 spring plate is flat against the back grip area so it is fine. I'll buy a replacement and then test it out.

 

Edit

 

Thank you soo much for this guide! This is going to help me put on my full metal kit for the TLE/RL II. Btw, how's your TLE holding up?

 

If you are directing that to me, then it is holding up no problem. Mostly a collector so I don't know about skirmishing. Works great and the blowback is crisp on the WA with 134a.

 

Catman - So I need to take off the slide, hold the bezel, push the safety 1/2 way in, then pull the hammer 100% back? or 50%? And then after that do I let go of the bezel or hold it while pushing the saftey catch pin back and completely pushing the safety in? Also I have to put it in in the "safe" position?

[jordan2139]

Do any of you know how to take the internals out from the slide? Are the sites glude in there?

[Catman]

Catman - So I need to take off the slide, hold the bezel, push the safety 1/2 way in, then pull the hammer 100% back? or 50%? And then after that do I let go of the bezel or hold it while pushing the saftey catch pin back and completely pushing the safety in? Also I have to put it in in the "safe" position?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

yeah, hammer all the way back - in the fully cocked position.

 

Once you've got the safety catch partially into the frame, like in the photo:

 

 

It's then just a case of getting it aligned with the internals it should go in with little trouble, this is the angle you're after for it to go in. The safety only engages when the hammer is cocked back and the safety only comes out of the frame when it's set to "safe"

 

 

 

 

 

Do any of you know how to take the internals out from the slide? Are the sites glude in there?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Right at the top of the page. there's a link to AI's video

[phoenix360mute]

hey catman, where did you get the hogue grips for your gun

[Catman]

hey catman, where did you get the hogue grips for your gun

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

I went to some lengths to get them. They're Pachmayr Rosewood / Rubber Grips. Only prob was they wouldn't ship to the UK so I had to find someone in the US to buy them and ship them over to me then pay them afterwards.

[n00b3r]

Question- Is the front sight glued in or is it held in place by friction?

[Catman]

Question- Is the front sight glued in or is it held in place by friction?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Depends on the model. I suspect they use a little glue though on the friction-held ones.

 

If you're installing a new slide and the front site is friction held I'd still recommend a tiny drop of superglue

[n00b3r]

Question- Do you have the PCG metal kit for the 1911's? If so, did you experience any issues with the firing pin being out of aligment resulting in light strikes? Also, what did you do with that little silver pin which came with the full metal kit?

[Catman]

Question- Do you have the PCG metal kit for the 1911's? If so, did you experience any issues with the firing pin being out of aligment resulting in light strikes? Also, what did you do with that little silver pin which came with the full metal kit?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Yeah Mines the PCG kit.

 

No it's fine for me, that little pin drops into the frame - you should have an instruction leaflet which a rather basic diagram of where it should go. The pin's only function is to provide a nice surface for the firing pin to move over - if you didn't install it that could be the cause of your problem. You insert it in the hole just above the spring shown in this pic:

 

[n00b3r]

Thank you, another +1.

Edit: Sorry to bother you again, but how was the fitting of the metal kit? Did everything move smoothly? Do I need to rake the slide 100s of times to get a smooth action?

[bronney]

Catman, I was about to give you another +1 but the system tells me I need to wait a day before I can do another. And the reason? That PGC pin solved ALL my light strikes problem. ALL!!! You owns ALL my base!