renegadecow

You might not want to buy that if intended to be used for more than just a wall hanger. I was saving up for the 2" version myself when Snowman revealed to me how pathetically weak Tanaka designed it to be (read power estimate by Redwolf) and thats for the 4" model.

I always assumed that the rubber band was there to provide return tension for the charging handle if the gun were racked and the bolt held back. On real and the other gbb ar's the charging handle has to be pushed back of the bolt were locked back. OT Any information from the KJW factory if they're also going to be producing the Tanio Koba AK?

Since G&P puts their aimpoints on their WOC rifles, I suppose it would be safe to assume they'd fair just as well on a WE. However I have come across some guys complaining about their old G&P aimpoints not doing well (turning off or losing zero), maybe the new ones are made to be more robust.

The WE wiki page is pretty much the answer to the Tolstoy sized threads. The long threads are more like chat rooms and when something useful is picked up, it gets edited into the wiki. Problem is that the wiki is somewhere else and it doesn't get edited very frequently (I don't know ho to put information in it myself). I suggest to keep the long threads as they are BUT make a single review thread (like a mirror to the wiki) that tackles most of the problems in summary.

Just to input something I've found when asked to "fix" an AGM M4 (I've searched and it hasn't been addressed): I was able to fix the forward assist by simply stretching out the spring underneath the ratchet arm. It was squashed up and making the arm sit too low, barely making contact with the notches on the bolt carrier.

An anxious week of waiting for me then. For now I only have the optics that's going on right. I wish WE makes an A2 upper soon though.

I take it you guys buy from Zahal.org? I've made a test purchase from them yesterday to see if things come through.

You mean modifying the bbu so it doesn't engage the disconnector right? I pretty much think this is how the Marui Hi-Capa Xtreme does it as its short stroked as well and pretty much required for it to work. I'd try peering into the WA full auto prokillers for some ideas. edit: Looking back on slow mo vids of the Marui Xtreme, it seems to be using a different way to do full auto as the hammer falls only after the slide has gone back into battery unlike the bbu/shortstroke mod where the hammer rides the slide. Might want to check on those especially since there a cheap china clone out to

I was wary of this when the first pics of the TSC nozzle came out. Out of experience in trying to make my own restricted nozzle by placing spacers behind part #42, I found that its (the spacer) shape greatly affected the force of recoil as gas has to pass behind #42 to get into the piston. This is precisely why the restriction via a longer operating rod part #39 doesn't seem to affect recoil at all since the profile is so slim it hardly affects gas flow. A weaker recoil spring might work as I would advise against modifying the shape of the locking mechanism of the TSC part, but try to get hold

Are you certain your valve knocker doesn't get stuck? This happening on a GBB handgun usually comes out with half the gas efficiency which is why it comes to mind. It could be that your knocker gets stuck forwards, lets loose a couple or so rounds with the gas continuously purging when it shouldn't, wastes your gas until a third or so shot jolts it lose and closes your valve again.

To the guys having problems with semi-auto, here's how it works on the WE and is surprisingly the same with WA/G&P/AGM which is to say the same with real AR15s. Some guys over the AGM thread kept on babbling about their hammer and sears not working like the real thing and so shouldn't be reviewed by the ATF . My drawings aren't exact, but the principle is. 1 Hammer at ready engaged on trigger sear, selector on "semi" 2 Trigger is pulled and hammer falls 3 Hammer pushed down all the way and engages with part #54 with trigger still depressed 4 Trigger is let go,

Threadlock?

You can start by making a short list of what you have in your gun. All you said is "CO2 carrier". I'm assuming you have the CO2 compatible nozzle on, but do you have the CO2 compatible chamber as well?

I think you have to stress further that your products are anodized as opposed to painted as this difference can hardly be noticed with 600x800 pics. Was pretty clear to me the first time.

Repainted. Bake-on hi-temp paint apparently works wonders durability-wise (used as cheap substitute for alumahyde or duracoat for real guns). But paint manufacturers really shouldn't label their cans "flat black" if they aren't truly, well, "flat". Looks like its been held by some galoot with big, burly, sweaty mitts.

Like I said, I couldn't remember the model of those $500 receivers from before. But now that you say its the exact same thing, I take it the guys who did buy them for $500 back them would be steaming by now?

Does your fire selector work consistently is the gun is used with regular propane?

You could just drill out the holes to a slightly larger diameter depending on your target power.

Heat is pretty much the only way to loosen the threadlock applied on it at the factory. I've tried using a candle and it still wouldn't budge. Ended up buying a complete nozzle assembly instead.

The quantity of the production run greatly influences price on CNCd products. That $500 receiver from before (can't remember now what exactly) was made in limited quantity hence the price. This new receiver, although similar if not the same in manufacturing processes and quality, will be cheaper by a factor of Airsoft 123s definition of "larger quantities".

It's the only thing stopping me from building a Rock River Arms Coyote Carbine.

If I had two of those mini launchers I'd have stuck them on the two side rails.

Just shave down a bit the part of the follower that lifts the slide lock.

File down the tip of part #39 of your CO2 kit. This should open up your valve some but its a trial and error process.

Cw to undo the fh and barrel. Ccw to tighten. I just checked again, twice even.