Chris North

Found out what the problem was with the new valve. Apparently the inner diameter of the new nozzle is a bit bigger than the old (stock) one. The quite obvious result of this is that the valve (which is also a bit larger OD-wise) will not fit into the nozzle properly and so will not close. Luckily I ordered another gas/nozzle assembly so I just stuck the power restricting valve in there. Quite weird that they would change that, but I guess I could see some advantage. The other change I noticed is that the valve spring is also slightly larger at one end (not sure what that's called).

If you don't mind me asking, how did you discover Krytox lube, Otto? Outside of ebay (which doesn't really have what I want in the quantity or price I want) I had to get it from a major industrial supply company through my dad. Have to wait a few days before I get it though... Anyway, has anyone else received and installed their power-down valve yet? I just got mine today, but It doesn't seem to be working. When I fire the blowback is extremely weak. I haven't spent much time on it yet but it looks like the valve is too large and doesn't close.

I realize I'm a bit late with this, but thanks. I was looking into making my own with an old phonebook, but I'm not sure how well that would turn out, if it even did. Sorry about the lovely ###### quality of these pics (not sure what happened, as they all came out like this), but here is my current storage setup: Very basic, of course, but that's good in my opinion. Both cases cost cost me $30 each on sale, but only the second case feels cheap-ish. They both just barely fit under the bed: So take that all you fancy-pants Pelican case people!

I'm curious, why replace the original hop in the first place?

None of that helped? The WE really does seem to need to be held tight for the bolt catch to catch. For some reason if you try to absorb the recoil in a fluid motion it won't work (on mine at least). I think some thing similar also happens on real firearms. If things get really desperate you could probably file and bend a few parts of the levers in the mag for the catch, but I wouldn't recommend starting from there. Too much force on the catch seems to be able to slow the bolt down (but only on an empty mag). Otto: The followers might be because the little nub that press

Maybe they're even smarter and have developed their M4s to work out of the box with no major design flaws that show until a good 40,000 rounds have been fired.

Probably the best place to look first. Otherwise try pressing lightly on the bottom of the bolt catch and dry fire. If it locks back it might just be that the little nub that presses to engage it isn't popping up all the way, so what I've found to work well is to take the mag shell off and lightly lube the levers and parts with oil. If it doesn't lock back try manually pulling the bolt back via the charging handle with an empty mag and see if it engages. I've also had it fail to lock back if I try to move the gun with the blowback. It seems to need a solid jolt to engage.

You'd still have to take the valve/nozzle assembly apart as the power down valve kit isn't sold as one unit. But if I were you I'd get the whole setup in addition anyway. There's a few small parts that could get lost or damaged and for $16 you can't go wrong. I'll be getting one myself. Having two also gives you the benefit of swapping power settings with a basic field strip and removal of a screw.

That's part #122 (the piston head o-ring). A few people have had trouble with that. You cou8ld look through the last 15 pages but I doubt they'll tell you anything super-informative that I won't tell you now. Basically, you could buy a replacement from Airsoft Buddy for $5 a pack plus $5 shipping, and that is pretty much guaranteed to work for at least a little while. Some people (myself included, but not all) have had great success replacing the o-ring with a #83 one that should be available at your local hardware store or probably definitely available at Home Depot (if you can stomac

He's being sarcastic. Looks nice though. Edit: Gah beaten to it by a few seconds. What is that vertical grip? How do you like it? Was looking at getting a stubby grip myself.

Depending on the kit it may require work to fit properly, and it may affect operation if incorrectly fitted. They still require taking down the entire gun and shoving the parts into the kit, no matter what. They also cost a lot. I've only installed two slides myself but neither one seemed to be noticeable heavier (in fact I think one was lighter) than the stock slide so they didn't really affect gas mileage. You seem to be missing something there. Nice looking kit none the less.

It's only the nozzle pulling out of the chamber bit. It's normal unless it really requires a solid yank to move. You may want to try lubing the outside stem part of the nozzle a bit if it's just a little stiff. Edit: I think it should only require a fraction of the force required to move the bolt back past the halfway mark, where it rides over the hammer. AB now has a list of parts seen here. I think he probably has more than this in stock, but you'll have to do the old fashioned email and wait to see what and for how much. Sorry if I missed some one mentioning this, bu

Aren't PTW receivers ungodly expensive? Edit: Apparently the're not as bad as I thought, but still the cheapest are above $100.

I'm not sure, but I think Chinese New Year may delay shipping for a while.

Indeed, thanks Sale.

In semi, after a round is fired my trigger clicks on the way back to the ready to fire position. Apparently the clicking is from the hammer moving up 1/8-1/4 inch. Is this normal? I don't recall it happening before, but I'm not sure.

I can honestly say that I agree with you on most points. Airsoft guns in general are just *suitcase*. Either you have a company that produces $150 plastic guns that are pretty much guaranteed to work if you use them as intended or you have a pot metal gun that might not work. The WEM4 seems to be one of the few exceptions. Like most, it does have it's problems. Most of which are easily and cheaply fixed, but they are problems none the less. It's made of pretty decent materials and is pretty cost efficient, and although some parts break even when the rifle is used as intended and some

My hop, loading nozzle, magazine, and metal body seems to be holding up fine so far, though.

Thanks. Here is a photo of what I used. It's probably not the most ideal but it seems to be making due. I think the rifle might be shooting a little less hot, but no chrono to confirm. Basically all I did was: -Find a suitable nail in the drawer, one with a head that looked about the diameter of the original valve and a stem that would fit into the long thin part of the nozzle. -Make a few modifications to the nail (basically just cut the stem down a little). -Epoxy a small bit of spring to the head of the nail, to prevent it from sliding backwards past the opening for the g

I was actually thinking about doing that. Probably going to try to use a nail with an o-ring as the valve and spring guide (something like the KSC Glock rocket valve), but I doubt it will work well, if at all. Edit: It actually looks like it's working! Not sure exactly how well or for how long though. I'm going to work on it a bit more when I have some more time.

AB said he didn't have that part ATM. I asked him when he thought he would, but I think he misunderstood me. I did ask a machine shop dude if he would be able to help me out, but apparently I'm not worth a response. I think I'm definitely going to look into getting a new one made, possibly with more little bars to make it stronger. Edit: Also got my parts Tuesday, so I'm good with that now. Was the new charging handle supposed to be steel, or just a better aluminium? Edit 2: Like I mentioned earlier I did manage to plug the barrel gas route of the nozzle so that I can dry f