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Drill and Tap help please!


DarkLite

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Righto, need some advice.

 

I'm making a custom silencer for someone, for a standard AK beta.

 

I need to know the tap I should be buying - I know it's 14mm, but is there any other specifics that I'm missing?

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There are some good guides out there i used for doing my A level design coursework.

 

http://www-mdp.eng.cam.ac.uk/nagty/resourc...ng/tapping.html

 

Drill the hole to the correct tapping size.

 

http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/tapdrill.html

 

Get the tap, with some cutting compoud on it and put it into a pillar drill to start it off. With the work underneath, turn the drill by hand a few times to stop the tap going in "drunkenly." When its made a start, take the tap out of the drill and use the tap handle on the tap.

 

You want to be turning 1/2 turn forwards, then 1/4 turn back all the time. Try not to let the tap get right to the bottom of the hole as they can snap, which is a right pain.

 

As for the tap, as well as 14mm, you'll need to know whether its CW or CCW - right or left hand turn.

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You will need a thread guage to determine the proper pitch of threads to cut. Taps and dies have two numbers associated with each one, the diameter (14mm) and the pitch (how many threads per inch/mm), you also need a tap for negative threads.

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Ok, so 14mm negative.

 

Makes sense - but for a stock TM (and I assume pretty much everything else, as that seems to be the airsoft standard) what kind of TPI pitch am I looking for?

 

I'd imgine it's rather small...

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The thread would be M14x1 LH. The 1 means that the pitch is 1 mm per turn. Taps like this are usually special order only, and will cost more than a ready made silencer by King Arms.

 

You'll also need a lathe to be sure the thread and can are aligned. You can't eyeball it.

 

-Sale

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Yes, so in short, 1mm pitch thread.  Completely non standard pitch.

Well it does follow a standard, just not the most common one.

 

DarkLite: Building around an old flash hider is a good idea, as long as you're careful with the alignment.

 

-Sale

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Can I just point out, the longer the proposed silencer(s) the more accurate you need to get the thread alinement right. On a short silencer 1/2 degree won't make a lot of difference, on a long one, that is enough for a bb to clip the exit.

 

So the pillar drill wil work fine for a short silencer, but you really do need a lathe for bigger items.

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Thanks for the link!

 

Problem is though, as others have pointed out, I need a lathe, and in HK, heavy machinery (and the space for them) is as rare as rocking horse *beep*... not to mention horrifically expensive.

 

Case in point - cordless DREMEL is $110USD here... the same one they sell for $60 in the US.

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