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arivee

Yet another M4A1 clone...Improving the Gene Pool

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I have recently received an M4A1 from AIM. I believe this is the same as the one they are selling with Redwolf and definitely not the boys version sold on WGC.

 

Its claimed to have .9J spring or up to 300fps, these were specifically designed for the UK market (all of this is what I am told or can be read on Airosftmart's dedicated forum page here on Arnie's).

 

I have actually chronoed the gun - it shoots over manufaturers cliamed FPS (min FPS from 5 shots of 0.2g KSC BBs, max was over forum limits). Full auto rate is 10 rounds per second (at this point I would like to thank the crew at Cap't Carl's Paintball for chronoing the gun for me - drop by if you guys ever find yourself in Aston PA - address on the web www.captncarls.com)

 

Some additional descriptions:

- The rifle is composed of metal and ABS plastic parts, similar in composition to what you would find on a TM M4A1.

- The body has a HEAVY feel. The metal components on this AEG alone provides that heft.

- BOTH its front and rear sights are fully adjustable (windage and elevation for the rear, height for the front sight post).

- Removable carry handle reveals a rail mount

- Telescoping stock has 4 adjustment points.

- Included magazine has a 300 BB capacity

- Adjustable Hop Up system

- Claimed to be 85 compatible with Tokyo Marui accessories

- Recommended battery is 8.4 volt 1100 mah mini type battery (Battery not included)

 

Included in the box are:

- AIM M4A1 Airsoft Rifle

- 300 round capacity magazine

- Cleaning rod

- 100 BBs

- Front Sight adjustment tool

- Instruction Manual

 

I have taken a few photos (so this might span over several posts, I hope the admins dont mind).

 

I havent had the opportunity to skirmish with the gun but once I have I will provide feedback.

 

Without further ado - the first few pics...

 

The Box

 

zzIMG0001.jpg

 

Nozzle

 

zzIMG0005.jpg

 

Body

 

zzIMG0006.jpg

 

Buttstock

 

site1010.JPG

 

YIKES! WARNING BIG PHOTOS AHEAD (my apologies in advance - photobucket was a bit finicky, I had to shift to another site)

 

Out of its Box

 

site1012.JPG

 

Muzzle detail w NATO markings

 

site1014.JPG

 

Adjustable height front sigh post

 

site1015.JPG

 

Dust cover open to reveal hop up adjustment

 

site1018.JPG

 

More photos to follow...

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Ya man, gotta respect you putting the time into those pics, but if you could resize them I can get the "big picture" without having to scroll or order a 30" plasma to see it clearly.

 

That looks like a solidly built gun, I too am eager to see how it performs. Looks are only so good on the field ;)

 

Mobaar

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Finally!

 

I was able to resize the pics, I hope this helps - they are about 800x600 in size.

 

To answer some questions:

 

Performance - Manufacturer claim is 300fps on a 0.9 joule spring (that part I hope was still within forum limits) - Chronographed results went higher than that, I will say chrono results over 5 BBs 0.2g BBs was 10% over manufacturer claim. I have postage stamp videos and I will post them once I know how).

 

Trades - aside from the NATO marking, none at all. I don't want to mar the warning label (and that new AEG feel) - but I feel nothing underneath the warning label. Its clean. Someone has suggested that you can put stickers on it - but somehow the Honda sticker I've been saving will not look too good on it (maybe when it loses its new AEG feel).

 

Accuracy - When I tested for range and accuracy there was a tendency for the BBs to shoot down, even when I dialed in the hop up to its extremes. When I pulled the barrel out the window on the barrel where the hop up pushes down on the bucking didn't seem aligned. I will retest and report back.

 

Charging handle - Its made of metal and does pull out and spring back, the dust cover does flip open and a faux bolt will open up to reveal the hop up adjustment (this can be seen in the last photo on my first post). In case you are wondering too the forward assist button can be pressed but does nothing.

 

Known metal components:

- front sling loop

- front sight post

- outer barrel

- the heat shield rear retaining ring

- dust cover

- faux bolt/hop up cover

- rear sight assembly

- carrying handle rail clamps

- mag release assembly

- mag cladding

- trigger

- fire selector switch

- mech box (contents are currently unknown - manufacturer claims reinforced gears and mech box)

 

Everything else I did not mention is ABS (heatshield, muzzle assemble, carrying handle, body and telescoping stock).

 

I could have missed a metal or abs part or two.

 

Short of pulling the mechbox apart, I have gone as far as I can to disassemble the rifle.

 

Here are some more photos (lowered in resolution):

 

some more body detail

 

site1016.JPG

site1017.JPG

 

some mag well detail

 

site1019.JPG

site1020.JPG

 

heat shield and carrying handle off

 

site1022.JPG

 

field strip view

 

site1023.JPG

site1024.JPG

 

barrel

 

site1026.JPG

 

hop up detail

 

site1027.JPG

 

more photos to follow...

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Additional pictures:

 

mag well top view

 

site1028.JPG

site1029.JPG

 

mechbox

 

site1030.JPG

 

mechbox nozzle

 

site1031.JPG

 

I will need to muster the courage to attack the mechbox and crakc it open - that will have to come later. I will report in once I've had the chance to skirmish with this rifle.

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The barrel suggests a MIL-4 A3 Olympic arms, or just an Olympic Arms barrel with the highesttwist rate (1x7). The reason I come to this conclusion, is that ONLY Olympic Arms puts thier barrel stats on the exposed section of the outer barrel. So it has an Olympic Arms barrel (MIL-4).

 

Is the mech-box metal?

 

Is it full size?

 

It looks like a wanna be ICS Olympic Arms with a standard fiberate 1st gen callapsable stock.

 

Is the forward assist usable?

 

Does the charging handle lock a round into the chamber (ready the weapon)?

 

On an average, what is the weapon's fps?

 

The pistol grip is standard, the forward assist is the standard button (I forgot the model number), I like it better then the forward assist with a flap, I forgot what it's exactly called.

 

The mech-box looks like a non-trade marked mech-box of the PCR style (without the third generation).

 

 

Nice review, good updates, deserves a +1...

__

Have fun skirmishing!

__

 

 

Zax

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I couldn't sleep with the hop up thing - so I stayed up late, my report thus far...

 

The hop up seems to work (I am testing in a basement 40 ft away from the target, the rifle is steadied using a camera tripod, with extra support from me).

 

When firing, my head is beside the receiver to better differentiate the trajectory at which the BB is going. When I dial the hop up to extremes the trajectory raises and lowers accordingly. I fear that with the FPS on the rifle I may not be seeing an accurate representation with such a short distance (manufacturer rates it at 70ft distance). I guess the next best thing to do is go out on the field for a more accurate test (either that or I buy a house with a bigger basement, donations may be sent to....). Sadly, that wont be happening in the next two weeks.

 

Other things to report:

 

Battery life - using an 1100 mah 8.4 volt battery from a UTG MP5, charged with the accompanying charger - I could only fire off a few rounds before running out of enough juice to pull the spring. You could hear the motor trying to engage (sounding like a solenoid) but did not have enough juice to pull the spring back.

 

I next used a trickle charger, I was able to 'empty' a 300 round mag no problem (empty is in quotes, please see mag notes below). I believe the battery could have taken more but I was only out to test the hop up. I will try to expand the test to the limits of the battery in terms of maximum BBs.

 

Magazine feeding - I have had some full auto use on the mag (on earlier testing) and did not experience a misfeed. My latest tests were only of single shots, no auto. I filled the mag to capacity, manufacturer claim is 300 round mag, I did not bother to count, suffice it to say it was full to the brim.

 

As I was testing the hopup, I fired all rounds I could until the point the rifle was firing blanks. I took out the mag and 2 bbs fell out. I put them back in and rewound the mag. I was able to fire off 2 shots and the mag unwound. I emptied the mag and (this time I counted) 27 bbs were left in the 'feed line' . What does that tell me? The mag could feed 271 on a single wind, if I filled the mag to capacity.

 

I will try to I test for battery capacity on full auto alone and this time I will count the BBs.

 

On a side note - a friend lent me TM and Star mags and they fit perfectly - I did not try firing using those mags (d'oh) because I wanted to see its native mag performance first.

 

I have videos of the chrono done at Capt'n Carls Paintball (thanks again to them). Linkies:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~93delsols/wsb/htm...A1-20Video.html

 

@ZAXAQUAR - ummm...If you mean thats what the NATO markings on the muzzle group, thanks!

 

Yes it is 1:1 scale.

 

Yes gearbox is metal. Manufacturer claims gears are metal reinforced as well.

 

Forward assist can be pushed like a button but nothing happens. Its a working decoration.

 

You might be thinking real steel or springer type but to answer your question - no it doesnt chamber a round (havent seen an AEG do that, but if you know of oneplease point me to a website or resource where I can see it, it sounds interesting)

 

FPS is over forum limit (I sort of described it in my second post above I believe.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by a non trade marked PCR style but the mechbox has no markings if thats what you mean, I cant even tell you what generation it is -but I would hazard a guess that it is a gen/ver/type II similar to that of TM.

 

WOW pluses - thanks, never thought I'd get one of those!

 

*YAWN* thats it, I'm sleepy...have to sleep...enjoy

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ZAXAQUAR,

The markings on the outer barrel mean nothing. My CA has them and my mates G&P has them as do Marui's, I believe, if I remember rightly. This gun is nothing like an ICS gun you can see that from a cursory glance at the photos.

Guns with 'flap' on the forward assist: M16A1, M653, M655 etc basically all AR15 series from 1967 up until 1982 when the M16A2 came on the scene with the circular assist your familiar with.

What does this mean, "The mech-box looks like a non-trade marked mech-box of the PCR style (without the third generation)."? What, specifically, do you mean by third generation?

 

As JC1415 has stated it is a Marui clone i.e. two piece hop, small grub screw for motor adjustment and no doubt a similar outer barrel attachment method. Everything except a plastic body.

 

Arivee,

Can you do some pics with the hand guards off to show the quality of the hidden outer barrel and attachment method to the receiver.

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Hey guys, my friend got this gun quite a bit ago. In the states, it shot around 370 fps out of the box, which is amazing for its price tag. The plastic is not HIGH quality, but it is bearable. We modified the gun with Systema wiring, and the ROF went straight through the roof, and attached a Tokyo marui full stock. This gun is REALLY good for its price.

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Hey guys, my friend got this gun quite a bit ago. In the states, it shot around 370 fps out of the box, which is amazing for its price tag. The plastic is not HIGH quality, but it is bearable. We modified the gun with Systema wiring, and the ROF went straight through the roof, and attached a Tokyo marui full stock. This gun is REALLY good for its price.

not really David....remember we drop in a spring guide has bearing? it can increase at least 30FPS as the bearing work as a spacer, I think the stock power is around 350

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@ Tommygun

 

As requested attached below are what I call the heatshield retainer rings (if I have the term wrong, I'd like to know what the right term is.

 

Outer barrel. I believe the outer barrel is retained using screws or bolts that require allen wrenches.

 

site1032.JPG

 

The muzzle group is retained by this metal band with allen wrench type bolts.

 

site1033.JPG

 

The rear retaining ring (or are they called D rings?) assemble is made out of metal

 

site1034.JPG

 

@specialistCQB

 

I dont know if its removable, if you can point me to a guide that shows how to take down the butt stock I will try it. That buttstock looks nice, although I was thinking more along the lines of a crane stock - but for practical purposes.

 

I took a picture of the joint where the receiver meets the butt stock. Again, if you can point to me the way to disassemble the butt stock, I will and I'll even take pictures (providing its not too messy to do :) ).

 

site1035.JPG

 

@david and bernie

 

If you guys got the gun from evike it might have been version 1, if it shoots at that fps then all the more for me to think it is 1st gen. This was shooting at more than the rated 300fps but not as high as yours.

 

Not owning a TM - I actually dont have anything to compare it to, but I have been told that it had a good fit and finish.

 

-= Somebody get me to a field to skirmish with this thing! =-

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@ Tommygun

 

As requested attached below are what I call the heatshield retainer rings (if I have the term wrong, I'd like to know what the right term is.

 

Outer barrel.  I believe the outer barrel is retained using screws or bolts that require allen wrenches.

 

site1032.JPG

 

The muzzle group is retained by this metal band with allen wrench type bolts.

 

site1033.JPG

 

The rear retaining ring (or are they called D rings?) assemble is made out of metal

 

site1034.JPG

 

@specialistCQB

 

I dont know if its removable, if you can point me to a guide that shows how to take down the butt stock I will try it.  That buttstock looks nice, although I was thinking more along the lines of a crane stock - but for practical purposes.

 

I took a picture of the joint where the receiver meets the butt stock.  Again, if you can point to me the way to disassemble the butt stock, I will and I'll even take pictures (providing its not too messy to do :) ).

 

site1035.JPG

 

@david and bernie

 

If you guys got the gun from evike it might have been version 1, if it shoots at that fps then all the more for me to think it is 1st gen.  This was shooting at more than the rated 300fps but not as high as yours.

 

Not owning a TM - I actually dont have anything to compare it to, but I have been told that it had a good fit and finish.

 

-= Somebody get me to a field to skirmish with this thing! =-

 

 

Yeah, i'm really a noob so I would have no idea about that. Maybe it should just twist off? I know some do because I've seen people swap out the M4 stocks. You could try a hacksaw and super glue the new one on ;) just kidding :P

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@david and bernie

 

If you guys got the gun from evike it might have been version 1, if it shoots at that fps then all the more for me to think it is 1st gen.  This was shooting at more than the rated 300fps but not as high as yours.

 

Not owning a TM - I actually dont have anything to compare it to, but I have been told that it had a good fit and finish.

 

-= Somebody get me to a field to skirmish with this thing! =-

It is Gen.1, the gears are really easy to strip, it has been strip twice already......I heard the new on has better gears

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So the one they are releasing on evike at 3/10/06 is going to be gen.2 (all problems fixed???)

 

That is what I understand it to be.

 

I believe I have version 2 as evidenced by the chrono videos I took (they were shooting more than my chrono results).

 

The only way to really find out is to take this out and skirmish with it.

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The outer barrel is essentially a Marui copy and is in no way comparable to a CA G&P etc with true one-piece outer barrels. This one is very thin with multiple parts which can only lead to a likelihood of barrel wobble i.e. separate collars, Allen bolts etc.

However, what is an improvement on the Marui model is the barrel nut (nut with the star teeth running around it) which is true to the real steel and to release it you really need a proper spanner - see CA or Guarder tools. You can use a monkey wrench but you are likely to damaged it plus it is tricky.

The spring collar around it, that holds the fore-grip/hand guards in place, is known as a Delta Ring and in this case appears very shiny. I personally call the front retainer cap the 'end cap' or 'fore-grip end cap' etc.

 

To remove the stock just grab hold of the adjuster catch bodily and pull down vertically as far as and pull off the stock. Simple as.

If you do get a Crane stock you may well have to change the buffer/stock tube. In which case after removing the original stock remove the tube end cap(see small Allen bolt below rear). Then once taken off get a long Phillips screwdriver and undo the bolt that is down inside the tube. Once undone the whole tube, bolt and tube washer can come free.

 

Remember if you thinking of utilising the batteries in a Crane stock your going to have to re-wire the gun to the rear - but that's for another day.

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The outer barrel is essentially a Marui copy and is in no way comparable to a CA G&P etc with true one-piece outer barrels. This one is very thin with multiple parts which can only lead to a likelihood of barrel wobble i.e. separate collars, Allen bolts etc.

 

Tommygun - I am interested in the barrel wobble issue - are you saying that outer barrel will wobble? Or would that happen over time?

 

How do you detect that and how do you fix for it? Is it as simple as tightening the bolts again?

 

I'll try to take pictures of the outer barrel from the rear (through the upper receiver) and see if that makes a difference.

 

Thanks for the info on the collar and butt stock!

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Essentially the more bits that go into making something the more room there is for movement. Marui style outer barrels are made up of many parts and small screws which are not ideal when subjected to bending forces i.e. holding the foregrip etc. CA & G&P guns have solid one piece extruded barrels which look and work exactly the same way as the real steel except for the obvious.

You might or you might not get wobble, you might get a little which can be fixed by tightening various screws/bolts or it might go belly up. It all depends how much you use it and how rough you are with it but the design is not ideal for our skirmishing purposes.

 

If you do get any wobble then it usually originates at the point where the outer barrel joins the upper receiver but since your outer barrel appears to be made up of multiple pieces then movement, not necessarily wobble, could occur anywhere.

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@Tommygun - Thanks for the info on the wobble. I took some more pictures of the D ring portion of the barrel. I looks like a solid connection to me, but then again I haven't taken this gun out onto the field and time will tell if, when and how any wobble would occur.

 

D Ring/upper receiver detail

 

site1036.JPG

 

Rear receiver view of outer barrel

 

site1037.JPG

 

D Ring close up

 

site1039.JPG

 

I tried taking off the allen screws on for the nozzle group but I either had one of my allen wrenches bigger or smaller for the screw that was in there.

 

As for the stock - I got it off and...

 

site1040.JPG

 

End cap removed

 

site1042.JPG

 

Buffer tube removed

 

site1044.JPG

 

Save for removing and disassembling the mech box, this is as far as I am willing to go without proper guidance...

 

site1045.JPG

 

Cheers!

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