doopydoo Posted March 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 Also, I thought of another design idea. Should I make a backstrap(like most pistols have, 1911, Beretta)? You know, the lip under the hammer that makes it so your hand doesn't slip vertically? Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted March 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2007 And if no one objects, I think I'll cut it out WITH a backstrap, not shown. If I don't like it I'll cut it off. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted March 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2007 Wheeee quad post: I see much sanding in my future. By the way, that's 1/3 the thickness, and that's a half inch right there. This is going to be thick. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted March 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2007 Sorry project on hold- I was making a bow, two actually, both snapped before full draw. I gave up. So anyways, I haven't really done anything, except design the internals, but I want to know what coating I should have. I'm going to give it walnut finish and then I need a protective coating. I had used polyurethane before, but I lost my can of it. What should I get? Link to post Share on other sites
massacreman Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 well this looks amazing, think i may have to give this a try, if i can gather the funds that is Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted April 14, 2007 Report Share Posted April 14, 2007 polyurethane if your hands sweat up real profusely. clear varnish for regular handling and furniture oil/wax if you like polishing it by hand every once and a while. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted April 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 Ok good, I got polyurethane and tested it out on a wooden knife. My hands are pretty sweaty too. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted May 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2007 Sad news, folks. Prototype 1 will not work. I drilled the holes for the trigger/hammer so that it's skew. the three layers of wood are about 2-3mm askew. Also, I made the gap where the trigger spring fits into the grip in the wrong place. This is because the trigger pivots at a very high angle, and the spring will just bind up. This version fails. However, I may make another one later, and I'll be sure to put the trigger farther forward, and drill it perpendicular to the wood. Also 1.5 inches is kind of thick, I'll make the next version thinner. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted February 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 REVIVAL TIME I had 3 epiphanies: I can fix the trigger axle I should attach the layers with nails I need to change the spring tunnel And I did all that. The receiver is in one piece and the trigger mech works. Check it out. Instead of safety, I just have a very very tough trigger pull, at least 3x a normal trigger. I used two springs. There's 6 nails being used as pins to hold the body together. I still have a long way to go but this time hopefully I can finish it. Link to post Share on other sites
Sturaiku Posted February 19, 2008 Report Share Posted February 19, 2008 Lovin' your progress man, keep up the good work. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 For anyone who cares: Contoured grip, quite comfy now Two hinges for maximum strength, and it's fairly sturdy now And yes it does look awesome I contoured the grips, built the break barrel mechanism, reinforced it, took out the other spring so it has lower trigger pull, and contoured the trigger and firing pin. It works completely except for a barrel locking mechanism. That should be easy, and then all I have to do is stain and finish it. I'd say about 80% done. Link to post Share on other sites
Chubbmaster Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 doopydoo I hope you dont mind, but I'm building a 6 shot revolving grenade launcher off your trigger mechanisms. Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 That is truly awesome! Kinda has a "cartoon" chunkyness about it... Like Yosemite Sam would wield a pair of them or something! I was contemplating using one of those disposable compressed air confetti cannons, slightly modified with a foam rocket as a LAW style fire and ditch thing... Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 doopydoo I hope you dont mind, but I'm building a 6 shot revolving grenade launcher off your trigger mechanisms. Sounds good, just have to let me see it when you're done. That is truly awesome! Kinda has a "cartoon" chunkyness about it... Like Yosemite Sam would wield a pair of them or something! I was contemplating using one of those disposable compressed air confetti cannons, slightly modified with a foam rocket as a LAW style fire and ditch thing... I wasn't going for cartoonyness, but I guess when you look at it like that I can see it. LAW sounds good, ditching it is realistic but I wouldn't actually do that, most of us can't afford to buy a new one every time... Link to post Share on other sites
Chubbmaster Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 which spring did you remove? top or side? And what type of wood did you use? Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 There's only one spring in there, the trigger spring. It's in the pic a few posts up. There's two in the pic, now there's one. I used poplar as the wood, and so far it's working well and I like the grain, but I'm worried about durability. Link to post Share on other sites
Chubbmaster Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Yea, but is the single spring the one that fits to the right of the trigger or more on top. Whats wrong with the durability? I was thinking of using oak. Oh btw, great job on smoothing out the contours of the handle etc. Did you use a sander? Nvm, oak is hella expensive. What wood to use.. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Yea, but is the single spring the one that fits to the right of the trigger or more on top. Whats wrong with the durability? I was thinking of using oak. Oh btw, great job on smoothing out the contours of the handle etc. Did you use a sander? Nvm, oak is hella expensive. What wood to use.. Check Home Depot, for another project (bow, as in bow and arrow) I bought some for cheap, but it didn't end up so well, as oak doesn't have a lot of elasticity. It would probably be ok for this project, but the grain is bigger so you can't do as precise woodworking. I'd say maple would be best if you can afford it, but that stuff is really expensive. I'm using it for making a bass guitar and it's good stuff though. I used a dremel knock off for the contours, it's like a 220 piece kit on amazon for $23 or so. Really good deal considering a brand name kit that big would be like $80, and it works just as well. The spring is on top of the trigger, the other hole is there because I misjudged how it would pivot. The thing with poplar is it's a softwood, so it's naturally not going to be as durable as a hardwood. The pin holes and screw holes might enlarge over time and be unusable, or the hinges might break off, or who knows what else. All that is a lot less likely to happen with a hardwood. Link to post Share on other sites
Chubbmaster Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Hmm... I have everything down, even the mechanics of the revolving cylinders, but at this point, I'm trying to determine if oak can be precisely cut enough for this project. Also, What did you plan to do for barrel locking? I was planning a bolt. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 A lot of the answers to your questions are already in this thread. Read it over and ask anymore you have. Link to post Share on other sites
Chubbmaster Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 thanks, your bolt system won't work as I have a 3 piece system. But if i build another one that uses hinges, ill be sure to use it. I'll have to revert to my old system. POPLAR IT IS, though I have to ask, where did you buy it? I can't find that. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Orchard Supply Hardware. I got two 6" x 2' sheets and cut them in half to make 3 layers, one extra. Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 I wasn't going for cartoonyness, but I guess when you look at it like that I can see it. Its probably just me, or maybe its cause I don't get a sense of scale from the pics, but I'm imagining it as a mahoosive pistol! LAW sounds good, ditching it is realistic but I wouldn't actually do that, most of us can't afford to buy a new one every time... This idea of using the disposable air-powered confetti cannons to power a basic weapon comes from me having next to no money to spend on little projects like this... They throw paper shreds (no mass, lots of air resistance) a fair distance, so I wanna know if they'll throw a little rocket! Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Its probably just me, or maybe its cause I don't get a sense of scale from the pics, but I'm imagining it as a mahoosive pistol! This idea of using the disposable air-powered confetti cannons to power a basic weapon comes from me having next to no money to spend on little projects like this... They throw paper shreds (no mass, lots of air resistance) a fair distance, so I wanna know if they'll throw a little rocket! You're right, It's really a mahoosive pistol, 15" from tip of barrel to end of grip, but it's very light and doesn't look oversized in my hand, except for the barrel. I still think building this is more monetarily responsible if you use it more than 3 times in it's life... The wood cost about $12 and another 10 for the hardware, and a 10' length of pipe was $5, and I can make many more out of that one pipe. It also probably looks a bit more professional, bar the cartoonyness, but that's another issue. Link to post Share on other sites
doopydoo Posted February 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 I'm almost to polyurethaning it. I have Minwax gloss and semi-gloss, which should I use? I'm leaning toward semi - gloss... Link to post Share on other sites
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