Wynthorpe Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Good news about le nozzles. Getting Guarder 18C nozzles and floating valves etc. As for the FA issue. Well, you are still using an FA lower I am telling you you cannot trust those *suitcase* internals. Get a Glock 19 and transplant and be done with it. It's possible your FA internals are worn and wonky already and making the hammer not catch/release properly. Strip it down, clean, relube, reassemble and hope its better. I will order the Guarder steel hammer mech internals for mine shortly and hope those work. I mean, in my soon to come G19 lower internals This seems as though its getting expensive! Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Well... I am telling you, those god danm full auto pistols. They're not worth *suitcase* in my book. I just got the G23 for the full marking GEN4 lower. Nothing else. I knew all along I would get a G19 for the internals. As for the additional steel parts. That's just for fun. The A1A nozzle could probably be modded to work. But by the way mine is shooting fine in single auto with the A1A internals and G23 FA lower. So not sure what's up with DJs. Well besides it not propelling BBs, and then doing it at 140 FPS... lol ! Link to post Share on other sites
Wynthorpe Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Its a damn shame the lower not available on its own. I'll be buying quite a bit internally too, GM Zero Hammer, Trigger bar and a hop and barrel. Link to post Share on other sites
vilerk Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Just want to clarify some things, WE curved mags are old stock. They're from when WE's came with curved bottom nozzles, a weaker "split" BBU, and a non trigger-locking hammer housing, Also, WE G18c nozzles are different from G17 nozzles. Both need modding to work in each others' BBUs. Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 btw nonex, the guarder g18c nozzle has a curved bottom instead of a flat like the A1A one... Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Well *fruitcage*. That might be an issue. Guess you gotta get curved gas route rubbers then. But those are readily available from many companies. But, actually. Since I will be using the Guarder magazines, which are curved, they should work fine with the Guarder 18C curved nozzle. But, what I noticed today when I tried both mags, was that the WE OEM flat gas route rubber magazine gave a few FPSs lower than the Guarder curved one. Even though the nozzle is flat. So I dunno Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 I was thinking, as I already have a we g17 trigger housing laying around shouldn't it be enough with: -GunsModify Zero hammer Set - http://www.boomarms.com/shop/item.cfm?id=GMF-PT-ZEROHS-G17 -GunsModify Reinforced Titanium Coat Trigger Bar - http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/gunsmodify-reinforced-titanium-coat-trigger-bar-for-marui-we-g17-g26-g34-1.html#.VOaAJCyqk1c to convert the g23 lower to a g19 lower? or am i missing something? Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 That's untested as far as I know since we still don't know how compatible the WE Glock 19 is with the 17 model. :| Can't you try without those upgrade parts first and see how it goes ? Link to post Share on other sites
vilerk Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 to convert the g23 lower to a g19 lower? or am i missing something? You'll need to get a G17 hammer spring, also the pins may be different sizes. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Why ? Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Isn't the hammer spring included in the link I posted with the Gm trigger set? I will try it after the Chinese New Year... Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Well I was more thinking that how different is the G17 spring to the G23 ? Link to post Share on other sites
vilerk Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Sorry didn't know they made an actual set now. My only experience with 18c hammer springs are with stark and I remember it permanently deforming when used with a 17 hammer. 17 hammer springs work with 18 hammers though. Otherwise you should be good to go. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Aherm... I have a slightly embarrassing confession to make. It seems that I may have installed the floating valve the wrong way in the nozzle after filing it down to fit and move freely. Which would explain the measly 140 FPS I got. I have installed it the right way around now. Will check FPS tomorrow. I would rather not replace the nozzle and floating valve if I don't have to Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 An little side project, don't know how i feel about the tan gen 4 frame though... Link to post Share on other sites
Wynthorpe Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Just given the G17 a run out and its firing full auto, anyone any ideas?! Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Wynthorpe: What was your base gun? Which parts did you install in the BBU ? Just tested mine again after installing the floating valve the right way. Both WE OEM G19 magazine with flat gas route rubber and Guarder Glock 19 magazine with curved gas route rubber now gives me a pretty consistent 265 FPS with 0.2g BBs, ASG UltraAir gas, 23C and 22% humidity. Would like to try and push it to 300 FPS somehow though. Will probably get a Guarder nozzle kit and try before I do anything else. So yeah. Make sure your floating valve can move freely in the nozzle and it should do "OK". Kick and overall feel felt about same for both magazines so maybe the shape of the rubbers don't matter that much? Would have to do full gas efficiency tests to find out for sure. Link to post Share on other sites
Wynthorpe Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Base gun is WE G17, brand new. I transfered whole bbu unit etc. I solved it by lubing the *fruitcage* out of everything with silicone spray, not sure what issue was. Once got working was shooting really well and doing 280fps on Abbey predator gas with .25, room was 25c. Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 How is the included RMR holding up? I've had 2 lenses flick out of my Glock almost immediately. Link to post Share on other sites
Wynthorpe Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 An little side project, don't know how i feel about the tan gen 4 frame though... Looks good, but im really not a fan of tan pistols at all. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Base gun is WE G17, brand new. I transfered whole bbu unit etc. I solved it by lubing the *fruitcage* out of everything with silicone spray, not sure what issue was. Once got working was shooting really well and doing 280fps on Abbey predator gas with .25, room was 25c. Wait what? Did you not get BBU and nozzle etc. included in your A1A kit? EDIT: Right you got the non-RMR version. My bad Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 The bbu and nozzle is only included in the kits with the RMR slide... Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Pimped my dull HK Glock 19 GEN4 frame with some semi-gloss clear-coat for the logo and markings to make it look more "real". Not perfect, but better than before. It's a bit grainy but, probably just me noticing it Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Here's a bit of a funny update on the hex screws. I bought an A1A RMR sight mount base from A1A. It came with the same type of hex screws the SAI slide kit did. They were in good shape and could be installed. However, after doing so my slide kinda felt a little stiff and jammed somewhat. Required more force than normal. So, guess what. The *fruitcage* hex screws are too long, and go into the BBU, pushing it down and making it jam slightly. Haha, what a joke! But anyways. I had ordered some separate screws to fix my hex screw issue before I got the RMR mount. And I bought 2x MF6S - DIN 7991 A4 M3x10mm screws, and they worked, sort of... First problem of course being that those are the same lenght as A1As screws, and are too long. Second minor issue is that they are stainless. I would prefer them black to not cause any glare or reflections etc. But anyways, the point of the story here is that if you want hex head screws that actually *fruitcage* work properly, get this : 2x MF6S - DIN 7991 A4 (possibly not that DIN number as that would probably be stainless) M3x6mm or 8mm. So right now I am back to the shorter Philips head screws until I cut down the screws I bought and paint them black. Insane Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 If the original screws looked right but we're too long, why not just cut down the original screws included with the kit to the correct length? Link to post Share on other sites
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