uscmCorps Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Double tap Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Well... I covered that in my videos The original screws are *suitcase* quality. One I got with the RMR kit had wonky threads and would not go in. They also look pretty bad. You can't tell it's even a hex head screw because of how they are made. Just very soft in the details. I did try to cut that one down with a Dremmel disc, But the screw was of such bad quality that it became severely deformed from the cutting process and was not usable. But, the better question is, why the hell are the OEM included sscrews too long? Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 By the way the Guarder Glock 19 custom magazines for the TM platform are pretty much a straight copy of the Stark Arms Glock 19 magazines but with better materials and finish. Real Glock baseplates work on the Guarder Glock 19 magazines! Wish I had checked that before ordering the Guarder Glock baseplates :| Or maybe not. Looking at the pics from Guarder they look pretty much spot on to real ones, but the Guarder ones has the extra hole to retain them when pushing the plate out of the way to fill up gas. So I guess that's a plus. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 So I got an A1A Glock 17 barrel for my Glock 19 that I plan to cut down. I've been thinking of a couple of ways but I think the best cut and fit to handle the lateral forces of blowback is something like a puzzle piece, like this: Both at the top and bottom of the barrel. I found that Loctite Metal epoxy is pretty good apparently. Rough up the seams, clean them off and epoxy together. Then slather on some epoxy on the inside of the barrel join as well. Let cure, sand down and then off to Cerakote. What do you guys think ? Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Why not just cut of the end? Or thread it. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 That was my first thought. But the front end has the fake rifling at the front and is also shaped differently. So cutting off the front would leave a pretty awkward looking hole. Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 I'd go with a straight cut and a reinforcing sleeve on the inside. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Mhuh. Yeah I've thought of that too. Easier to do. But would it hold? Probably... Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Could add a few grub screws. Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Look at it this way. Those barrels break where they meet the chamber. That's because there is a shape change in the material that creates a stress riser. The puzzle piece cut looks like a solution but your'e going to create a bunch of corners that can start to crack out. The straight cuts don't have that problem. Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Not to mention the puzzle piece cut approach would be a PITA to do. +1 for straight cuts like a URXII barrel nut and tool interface and an inner reinforcing sleeve. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Could add a few grub screws. How would I do that? The outer barrel is 1mm thick around the walls. Yeh the puzzle cut would be hard to get right for sure... Hmmm Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Like this. You can get really small grub screws (in red) Probably completely unnecessary thinking about it. Scoring up the contact surfaces of the inner sleeve and barrel, having a good tight fit and using some strong adhesive should be sufficient. Likely you'll go to all this effort and then A1A will release one ha ha. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Yeah I figured out what you meant after I posted. Just worried that it will add unecessary weight to the barrel. I asked A1A about a Glock 19 barrel and they said they had no plans for it. So that's why I'm doing this Thanks for the suggestions. I will consider before making any cuts Link to post Share on other sites
Wynthorpe Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Why dont you draw one in Solidworks and then have it machined? Shouldnt be too hard at all, in fact i may draw one up. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Well where would I get it machined without it costing me mucho dineros ? Link to post Share on other sites
vilerk Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 What's the ID of the outer barrel? If it's big enough, how about tapping the inside of both segments and getting a threaded bushing made to connect the two? Link to post Share on other sites
Wynthorpe Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Well where would I get it machined without it costing me mucho dineros ? Let me have a talk with my friend who is an engineer and has access to 6 axis CNC, see how much he'd do it for (probably a case of beer knowing him). Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 One off thing like that would run in the hundreds. No chance it would be viable for £16 or so. But if your friend is in fact crazy, I have some stuff I want done ha ha... Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 What's the ID of the outer barrel? If it's big enough, how about tapping the inside of both segments and getting a threaded bushing made to connect the two? 14 OD approx 12 ID. 1 mm material for the walls all around. Sounds overly complicated and requires machinery. Link to post Share on other sites
vilerk Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Darn, the dimensions are just a bit off to use an M12x.5 tap/die, otherwise it'd be fairly easy, with or w/o a lathe. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Well derp! I just got burned! Got my AirsoftGlobal order in with tons of Glock 19 parts. Amongs other things the newly released Guarder Glock paseplates, both standard and a +2 one. They don't fit on the Guarder Glock 19 custom magazines! Those mags are a straight copy/improvement of the Stark Arms Glock 19 magazines. Which fortunately do take real baseplates. So yeah Guess I gotta get me some more real plates! BTW I got the Guarder nozzle and rocket valve etc. and the hammer mech internals, and a UAC trigger bar Won't have time to try these things out until the weekend though! Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 too bad about the baseplates... my guarder nozzle internals are on its way with the guns modify gold trigger bar (it must match the other gold stuff ) Didn't buy the hammer set as i planned, i bought a new g19 gen 4 instead. I will swap the internals and sell the we g23. That M3 light grew on me so I ordered one as well. looking forward on another unboxing vid NoNex Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 FYI not looking to promising for the Guarder TM steel internals. Will take a closer look this weekend. But hammer does not appear to work without some pretty hefty mods. I think if I can't get all the parts to work then I won't install any of them... I dunno. We shall see Good call on getting a semi only G19 GEN4 DJ Link to post Share on other sites
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