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Ace 1 Arms Glock slide kits SAI RMR T1, T3, Costa etc. for WE and TM


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That's normal. Just a tight fit. Happens with many GBBs and BBUs.

 

Smack it (slide, with BBU facing downwards) against your thigh a few times with some decent force and it should come loose. Then try to wiggle it out downards moving it slightly both at the front and back.

 

Also, regarding the hammer. I will hold off on final judgement and any potential mods before I get a straight Glock 19 single-fire only lower internals kit to look at. Might very well be that WE changed the design slightly for their FA internals. Doubt it though.

The Guarder parts state they are for TM G17 and G18C, but ya never know.

 

I think the valve knocker, sear and valve reset knocker will fit without much mods or none at all. But ya know, do you really want those being steel if the hammer is not?

 

Also, Guarder nozzle and rocket valve blocker looks good. Fits nicely. I can tell already that the piston head is not peeking out into the nozzle opening like it did with the A1A nozzle.

 

Got an A+ power rocket valve kit and spring too, looks interesting, will try that and see how it affects FPS and performance.

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FYI UAC trigger bar is totally a no go. Not even close to fitting nor working. Same with Guarder trigger bar then I suppose. For WE G23/G19 that is.

 

I will update the separate WE G19 compatability thread when I have tested everything properly.

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Well, just finished doing my puzzle cuts, and while I managed fairly well. I realized something... Getting the barrel to line up straight and flush on all sides, and getting it smooth, will be next to impossible. No matter what cutting method used. I don't have any real tools here so the cuts are as straight as can be made with hand-tools. So yeah, this idea is getting scrapped and going with plan B. WE barrel + WE thread adapter + CCW thread protector.

 

:o

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You know, I was actually wondering the best way to go about your barrel mod without a lathe, mill e.t.c.  I think the best way to do it is get another tube with a near identical inner diameter as your barrel exterior diameter.  That way you can drop the tube over the barrel so it rests on the chamber then drop the cut section of barrel into the tube and no matter how bad the cuts, it will continue on a true line.  Then you just have to cut out a half section of the tube to give you window to apply whatever bonding agent (but not to much so you can rotate the barrel and do the other side) Then just pull off the tube, fill in the joins properly, file/sand down and paint.  Seems really easy in my head heh.

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I don't know man.  You could inquire on the custom parts thread to see if someone could make you one.  Seems like a piece of on a lathe and an appropriately sized ally/nylon/Delrin rod.

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Just chronoed my Glock after installing Guarder piston head, Guarder loading nozzle and Guarder floating-valve kit.

 

Still 265 - 270 FPS. I.e. same as with stock nozzle setup.

 

Gonna try the A+ rocket valve upgrade and see what that gives me.

 

:o

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Right. I forgot something.

 

On this chrono test above, I had installed the Maple Leaf 6.03 precision inner barrel and a Maple Leaf hop-up rubber.

 

However, on the original test I had the stock WE barrel, which I think is also 6.03, and a Nine Ball hop-up rubber.

 

So yeh... probably +/- 0 in differense at the end of the day.

 

I was actually expecting the Guarder setup to give maybe 10-20 FPS more. Just because... :P

 

I got two different valves that I can try now. Will start with the A+ and then the, uhhh, EDC or something it was called.

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I feel kinda bad for turning this into a one-man-show but I gotta do what I gotta do :P

 

So... Turns out the Guarder slide lock lever, i.e. take-down lever, is just a hair thinner than the stock WE one.

 

This causes about a 0.25-0.5mm offset of the slide to frame fit, where the slide is slightly too far forward in the frame.

 

The second thing this does is mess with the trigger staying back once fired feature.

 

This is controller by a cut-out in the BBU on the slides right-hand side which interacts with the top of the trigger bar. If it goes too far forward (slide) it bumps the trigger bar down and releases the trigger forward.

 

Verified by pushing the slide back the 0.25mm space and spanking the pistol a bit and nothing happens with the trigger position. However once the slide is all the way forward, even the slightest touch to the pistol makes the trigger plopp forward.

 

I think this might be fixable (second part) by just extending the groove backwards for the trigger bar cutout.

 

As for the Guarder slide lock lever, 0.25mm is noticable and so I might just go back to the stock one...

 

Also, I was thinking, I have heard of people loosing the trigger lock back feature on stock WE guns too. Perhaps this is when the slide lock and BBU housing get slightly worn and the slide goes that 0.1mm extra forward?

 

 

On the plus side, I am pleasantly suprised by the extended slide catch lever from Guarder. What a difference. Now it can actually be used as a slide release :P

And it's not as clunky as I thought it would be once installed.

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Don't feel bad bro :) I read and enjoy everything you write and put on YouTube :) I just received my we g19 and will swap the lower internals and my guns modify trigger bar. I have my a+ rubber and 6.01 a+ barrel on its way. The extended slide release is a must on every glock I have nowadays. As for the triggers I prefer the guns modify ones instead of the ace 1 arms.

As I'm not as good as you in indesign, I bought the stickers for my m3x light from: http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=CRUS-ACC-MTL-S&search=special&rs=Vfc%20sticker&catid=&cat=&view_choice=a

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Is the hammer and trigger mech significantly different from the G23? Mainly the hammer I guess.

 

Hoping my Guarder G17 specific parts will work in a WE G19

 

Nice about the stickers. But those are for M3X, I have just an M3 :P

 

Still working on getting myself a trademarked WE Glock 19. Going slow :o

 

You got a GM trigger bar to fit?

Is it G18C spec?

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D4FRhN.jpg

 

G19 on the left & G23 on the right

 

I just swapped the hammer housing from my G19 to my traded G23. No more full auto :D

As you see its a big difference between the G19 & G23 regarding the trigger housing and trigger bar.

I'm almost sure that your g17 specific parts will fit your g19.

Damn, you're right about the stickers, i got the m3 light too. But looking at pictures, the trades on the m3 light is engraved :/

Ehobbyasia is selling the element M3x light now, and its not a big difference between them i think...

The GM triggerbar is G17, G19, G26, G34 compatible so your trigger bars will fit the g19, no doubt...

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Cool, looks like it might work in the G19 then!

 

Yeah M3 light is embossed markings, but can't make those so gotta go with stickers :P

 

BTW I removed the auto-sear on my G23 just to be safe and it works as expected in semi still!

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haha.

 

Sure:

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B85pTFS-CoRJUXJyV1hvYUVYaUU/view?usp=sharing

 

Print settings:

 

A4 paper

Actual Size

Edge to Edge print

Black & White

Highest quality

 

Fits pretty nicely once cut.

 

I found that a 5mm radius corner cutter gets you pretty close to getting the perfect edge on the ends if you trim both sides. That's extra work though :P

 

It's kinda based on the M3 text but M3X'ed just because that's what looked better, if you know what I mean :o

 

Also different alignment on the top 3 vs bottom 3 for the Tactical Illuminator text. Whatever you prefer.

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Update!

 

Guarder nozzle + A+ TKO valve + spring = ~275 FPS

 

Guarder nozzle +EDS valve + Guarder spring = ~265 FPS

 

Stock A1A config = ~260 FPS

 

Guarder nozzle + Guarder valve + Guarder spring = ~265 FPS

 

So yeah, not really much happening on the FPS front of things.

 

I am using the A+ config now as that's what got me the highest FPS.

 

Not sure why I am so hung up on boosting the FPS :P

 

Also, trigger straying back once fired not working can be fixed by filing on the BBU on one of the edges.

 

Videos covering this coming later.

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Got the A+ 6.01 precision barrel with the rubber installed and with the guarder nozzle assemble and Puff Dino Green gas I got a maximum of 280fps and 275 as average. Not so bad, I will give the A+ TKO valve a go later on... The only thing left upgradeable is the GM trigger assembly, but that is something that has to wait for another day...

Another thing that maybe can boost the fps a little is a new high output valve for the mag...

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Another thing that maybe can boost the fps a little is a new high output valve for the mag...

Something you could try is loosening the release valve by say 1/8 of a turn (or more), in theory if that doesn't cause it to leak then it could increase the power because the valve will be opened more.

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