NonEx Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 Video installation guide: Link to post Share on other sites
Katotaka Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 I think sai use custom wood burning tools for their stippeling jobs. They are more round in their shape than square or these: http://www.brownells-sverige.se/epages/Sverige.sf/sv_SE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/Sverige/Products/00396080061012/SubProducts/080061016 I feel flattered that I got my pic quoted Here's what it produced, close enough for me, TM plastic don't like the heat. ..........some are partial tips with 90° cut into them so they can do edges and corners easily. Hmmmm I need to make some of those now...... You will need a wire brush, to clean the head when you get build up. I put a wire brush in a nearby vice and clean the stippling tip when needed. Also, do it in a well ventilated space or at least have a fan blowing across the work area to disperse the fumes from going directly to you. It'll also help the soldering iron/wood burner from overheating. I will add a piece of kitchen paper, fold it few times to get some thickness and cushioning, put it in a small dish and add water. It helps cool down the burner ( TM plastic don't like the heat! ) and clotting the plastic build up, which in fact easier to clean with the wire brush, than molten plastic. • Take one of those tips with a large circular face. File/sand the entire pattern off it. Take a checkering file and cut a checker pattern into it. This is how I did mine, I also beveled the outer edge of the tip, I found that the molten plastic gets "pushed" outside the pattern if the tip is flat. Beveled tip produces a more blended pattern, like a "soft brush" in Photoshop. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Can we see a picture of the tip you made, please ? Link to post Share on other sites
Katotaka Posted June 3, 2015 Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Scroll up a bit Yes, I made that. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Aaah right that was your image duh! Thanks! Will try to make a bit looking like that myself. Nice stippling! Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Stippling prep done! Unfortunately I need to get a new UAC stippling tool. Before you guys told me about the brass brush I tried cleaning it by using a file, and as such the pattern is all messed up now I tried making my own bits but I suck too hard at that, not happening... Oh well. Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 Couple last minute tips before you stipple: • any area not to be stippled, get it as smooth as you're going to want it to be as a finished piece. Sanding after stippling is a pain in the butt. • do not stipple too far down the grip. That area gets much thinner on the inside at the mouth of the magwell. I would recommend allowing for a 3mm unstippled boarder around the base of the grip. • when stippling look at how the pros stipple and the areas that they stipple. A lot of people stipple the grip without thinking about what is really needed and what is excessive. IF you stipple the beaver tail area that would extend above the web of your thumb/trigger finger, consider giving that stippled area a serious sanding afterwards so you don't destroy the web of your hand and thumb but still have the look of stippled texture. • use thin long strips of masking tape / painters tape to define the boarders of where you're stippling to. You can do it with just a sharpie, but the tape will give you a little better edge. I typically lay down wide painters tape and using a metal ruler and sharp blade cut it into thin long strips. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Thanks for the tips! I plan on doing the SAI style stippling job so beavertail will be clear of stippling so it doesn't hurt my girly hands 3mms at the bottom is too late since I noticed I sanded down that area already, will look like if I don't stipple it. Also some ref. pics of SAI stippling shows about 1,5mm clearance at the bottom, so I will have to #yolo it But yeah, I will be doing proper layout with tape before I get started. But I think it's going to be about 2 weeks before I can start since I just ordered a new UAC tool yesterday Link to post Share on other sites
Katotaka Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 3mms at the bottom is too late since I noticed I sanded down that area already, will look like ###### if I don't stipple it. Also some ref. pics of SAI stippling shows about 1,5mm clearance at the bottom, so I will have to #yolo it Just leave it there, snap a low profile magwell on it and you're good to go. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Not a fan of magwells Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Well, SAI stippling is not going to happen for me in the near future as I gave up making the custom bits, will try doing it again later when I have more patience As for now, I just finished my regular stippling on my g17 gen 4 and the result was pretty good... Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Glock much? Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 I finally did it! Does it look like a pro SAI stippling job? Hell no! But all things considered, I think it turned out OK. God damn stippling those thumb-rest indentations with a square tool, how the FU? Also, mad props to people who can do super clean, uniform and "square" stippling jobs. That is something that is beyond me. But yeah. Not to shabby, eyh? But most importantly, it's super comfortable to grip now Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 What did you do about the threaded barrel in the end? One of those TK adapters and a WE protector? Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Nice stippling job bro, turned up being pretty nice Are you all done with the gun now? Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Yah, I got the TKO adapter and a A1A Glock 17 outer barrel protector. I guess only thing left is the labels on the light. However my OCD is taunting me and I will possibly get another frame and try again And do a better job. lol BTW the stippling is with the UAC stippling tool type A bit. Also, having had a break from it for about a day now, and looking at the pics, even I kind of go "Yeah, that does look pretty good". But, the finger index points are too big (height) and I regret not working out how to do radius corners. And those friggen thumb grooves, HOW DO YOU DO!?!? Also, get this. I free-handed the line around the mag-well with that 1mm border. Pretty cool eh? Notice I finally got the extractor sanded down in the rear. And removed the white putty from the light. And put in the Guarder piston head. The A1A one with Guarder nozzle didn't work. Too fat. Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Cheers. I take it you just took the protector off a barrel and they're not available separately? Astounding no one sells the diamond knurled ones on their own. Link to post Share on other sites
Dj_komodo Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Thats the best you can do with a square stippling tool, only way you can do those radius corners and thumb groves is by making your own stippling bits, a circular one, half a circle and a quarter of a circle. Thats how SAI does it... Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Cheers. I take it you just took the protector off a barrel and they're not available separately? Astounding no one sells the diamond knurled ones on their own. Yeah, I got it from my botched Glock 17 outer barrel to Glock 19 outer barrel "conversion" attempt. I know right, I was baffled when I was looking around.. Absolutely nothing :| Link to post Share on other sites
Katotaka Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 God damn stippling those thumb-rest indentations with a square tool, how the FU? That's why I started with a round tip, file the pattern then beveled 4 sides. As uscmCorps said the "proper" way to do it is using separate tips for corners and edges, but hell no I'm not changing the hot tip from my only burner .....thus the rounded corner tip, it works for me so it's a sweet compromise. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Well sheit... Just tried to dry fire le Glock. Two half stroke shots and then gas vented... WHUUUAT? Upon inspection and doing the thumb at front of nozzle and index finger on the gas route hole, and pushing nozzle back, it would seem that the Guarder piston lid doesn't seal enough because there was zero resistance when doing that. Going to try the A1A piston head and see if that's better. Strange Guarder G18C piston head doesn't work properly on the G18C nozzle? I will have to double check it out though Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 I had to revert back to the original A1A piston head and A1A nozzle to get the best blow back action out of it. Guarder nozzle with A1A piston head was feeling weird and getting stuck 2/3rds of the way back. Suprisingly, Guarder nozzle with Guarder piston head had about as good air seal as a strainer. Not sure how that happened. No go. A1A nozzle with Guarder piston head, same deal, no good seal. Running the A+ TKO valve and spring in it. Kicked nicely and locks back no problem. Now to chrono the thing and set the hop Then,,, PEW PEW PEW PEW!!! Also printed and applied labels to the flashlight. Next up is label and spent casing envelope for the Glock case and this project is dunzoooe! To be honest, after stippling the GEN3 frame, to hell with the GEN4 frame Link to post Share on other sites
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