DFM56

You can probably pick up at LCT gas block on WGC. I know they sell the FS/GB, I think I've seen just the gas block as well.

Great video. I've usually never had any problem with ticks, but this season I've had at least three on me every time I get home from the field. What brand was that organic cream you mentioned? Also, are you going to "pine plains" again this year?

I still can't get mine working properly. The first BB jams every time, even with no hop applied. I've tried marui and VFC buckings with a prommy 6.05 and a stock VFC barrel..

I run an RVG with a KAC handstop about that far in front of it. The added support from the AFG piece looks nice, and it beats trying to find good rail panels that are the right size for the gap I want. I might have to try that if I still have that spare AFG1..

Looks like a Romanian demill to me. Original barrel? and are you building it yourself or sending it out?

Tantal kits are fairly cheap if you want the correct gas block, front sight, and brake, and you can always sell the extra parts. I think you might even be able to use the RSB as well.. As long as you have access to someone with a lathe to turn the AEG barrel down it shouldn't be difficult. The hardest part will be adapting the tantal safety to an AEG I think. I've thought of ways to do it but none of them involve lowering the safety lever axis so it wouldn't be true tantal. None of them are that good, either.. Also, Dan, a plum tantal has been a dream of mine for a few years. Nothing beats

If you're getting strikes on a brake you have a problem bigger than the length of the brake. That all comes from how and how well it's mounted to the barrel. This looks like the barrel is threaded unlike the 74 and 100 series where the FSB was threaded, so as long as the threads are remotely concentric strikes won't be a problem. It's that long because the expansion chamber needs to be large to be effective, and in order to keep it roughly the same volume but make it thinner (iirc they wanted it to be compatible with some rifle grenade standard) they had to make it longer. The '74 brake is a v

What do you think of the MFT grip? It's a shame you can't get nice grips and E93 sling plates on AEGs.. In other news, Texas Weapon Systems is a pretty cool guy. I wish I hadn't just ordered the modular Midwest rail. http://www.onesourcetactical.com/texasweaponsystemskalashnikovhandguard.aspx

Just built the new upper for my SR635; SR635 upper (no forward assist or brass deflector) G&P Knighthawk kit KAC 600m BUIS

Just tried that on mine and it worked pretty well. The cap is very loose now but I don't want to glue it in case it binds again. Also, ranger plates (real steel) fit on them but could use some glue to lock them down. Are there any dedicated ranger plates for these yet?

Mine fed well but I did get one with a stuck follower within 3 fills.. I'll be getting the PTS Pmags eventually both for the extra reliability and capacity. Cheap mags aren't worth it if they fail this fast..

CYMA also has a 14mm threaded barrel and a 24mm adapter.

Airsoft rear sight blocks take real steel stuff just fine. Also, make sure the unit can adjust as much as you need it to. Airsoft receivers are 5mm longer than real ones, they might only have built it to adjust for a very small amount of variation in receiver length. Saiga shotguns take the same length dust covers as the rifles. I don't see how that would work on one, though. At least the ones we get over here since they don't have a traditional RSB..

12.9 oz with the three rail sections added, 11.3 without. Not that much of a difference, but I'm a fan of the slimmer profile and QD sling points. Saves me money on rail covers and a sling mount. Yeah, there really isn't much a difference for airsoft. I like gripping my real steel a bit farther out than I can with the normal handguards, plus the ultimaks get really hot on those!

Speaking of new products, midwest is going to start selling this is a few weeks. And the long version. I'm pretty pumped, I've been waiting for a modular handguard like this for a long time. No more rail than you need, nice and light, QD sling swivel spots.. Ships with 2x 1" rail and a 3" rail, perfect for a light and VFG.

Changing the front sight won't do anything if there aren't 14mm threads under the current piece since the 14mm threads are always cut into the barrel, not part of the FSB. Take the front sight block off and see if there are 14mm threads under it. If there are, you can just cut off the 24mm threaded part of the LCT FSB. If there aren't, you'll need to find someone who can thread the barrel.

It should fit, Redwolf lists the G&G PBS-1 as 14mm with an anticlockwise adapter, so it should do both clock and anticlockwise. LCT barrels (the actual barrel thread, not the larger adapter piece) should be 14mm, you can test that with any other airsoft flash hider you have kicking around.

Seriously?.. The mount and optic I use is probably lighter than just the siderail mount of the kobra without an optic. It doesn't apply to airsoft, but the TWS cover is almost as light as the old dust covers alone! Sure is adding so much weight to the rifle, right? I can get my mount low enough to co-witness, and I dare you to find a sidemount that can do that with a micro-dot or even offers a comfortable cheek weld (god mode, find one centerd over the bore of every rifle you use it on!). It's small and very low profile so I don't have anything to interfere with sidefolders or my body/g

That would look pretty cool, but I need the ultimak for slings and lights every once in a while. Plus, it helps keep the front end rock solid, I'm afraid to even take it apart since I have everything fitting so well together. My saiga did not like the midwest mount at all, so I'm trying to decide if I want to keep it for airsoft or not. I like the optic on the ultimak since it sits lower and I can cowitness, but the midwest mount does look awesome..

Awww yeah. The midwest mount is pretty nice. The diode for the primary arms micro dot is in a terrible place so I can't get it to co-witness though. It's on my real steel right now, and if I don't like shooting with it then it'll get stuck on airsoft duty. Sorry for the terrible picture, this thing really needs some paint and I need a place to take pictures that isn't cold and covered in snow.

Anyone know if the private parts AAC suppressors work with any other brand of flash hider? I have the PPA can and flash hider but I want to be able to put it on a few different rifles without unscrewing the flash hider every time and I can't find the PPA flash hiders anywhere.

Hmm, I figured it would need to be similar to function with the GBB trigger mech. The more you know..

Doesn't the GHK take real steel type selectors?