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Ok, so its 1.2J which puts it around 340-350fps with a 0.2g BB? Cos getting a TM to get that sort of FPS may require a bit more work, and at times unachievable with its stock spur gear breaking and fracturing with a mild upgrade spring. Oh well, I have no intention of getting a Type 89, just interested in its capability thats all. The TM one was accurate as a TM M14 I wonder how the BE one fairs? Knowing the BE HK33 accuracy was very much hit and miss a lot.

How many shots does it last with a fill of propane? Any ideas on FPS?

There are really two main things on AEGs that affect accuracy. One is barrel alignment (whether the barrel is pointed/mounted pointed in the right direction. The other is "straightness" of the barrel, whether the barrel itself is warping. To test the inner barrel/outer barrel for warping one test is the concentric ring test, clean the inner barrel first then, suspend the inner barrel with your fingers one at the front and one at the back, look through the barrel at the circles caused by the reflection of the barrel. If the circles are concentric (one circle within one circle ring

Yeah if you can find a CA25/G&P SR25 piston that should help, as they are 19 tooth pistons. Not terribly expensive but you need to contact a CA distributor or get someone in HK to get it for you as I did. As for the barrel, I will see what I can do, from the looks of it I don't think I can do much since the barrel mounts are welded.

Nah, the barrel is straight, take it apart and clear the barrel, then look down it. You will see that the reflection of the barrel will be in concentric rings, that means its straight. (However the flash sider isn't threaded straight) Its the mountings of the receiver and/or the rail on top that is skewed making the gun shoot left slightly, at least it can be adjusted. Not that I care really, I have seen KA FALs shoot way off their sight picture. For a clone I am impressed that their airseal between the airnozzle and hop unit is good. However, on mine it suffered from t

Yeah I guess I was lucky, my stock battery charged to capacity on the 2nd charge, and fired a good 1000 rounds and still ticking. The motor needed a bit of adjusting but aside from that the gun is good after I modded the semi-auto jamming issue. Since in NZ, we are not legally allowed to use auto, ROF isn't a big issue However, power though needs to be upped a bit. So mine has a M130 in it, works fine with the stock battery or the 7.4v lipo. My L85A1 shoots to the left a bit, so my windage adjustment is half way from the centre to the right. Other issues is piston wear, on the

Funny though I am using the stock battery now, and its powering my spring fine... Its a 1500mah battery thats charging up to 1400mah which is acceptable. I did however remove the fuse and the ROF upped a little.

I would have thought it would be easy to find Lipos in China? I am sure RC shops would have them, else gunnerairsoft.com has them under "element" brand. I swear by my korean lipos as I have had taiwanese ones die on me before. You are looking specifically at 7.4v 1500mah/1800mah/2100mah 16-20C discharge cells that would fit into the foregrip of the L85A1. Else I have seen people using 11.1v on a G&G version but I wouldn't if I were you.

A 7.4v Lithium Polymer is not the same as 7.2v Nicad/NiMH. A 7.4v >1500mah capacity Lipo can power up to M130s with small difference in ROF between a 9.6v 1500mah of the same size and capacity and can last just as long. Its also beneficial to use lower voltages as the oxidising of the motor brushes as well as arcing/oxidising across contacts do not occur as frequently as with using 9.6v batteries. The trick is to use a hi-torque/super hi-torque motor in conjunction with the lipo as well build motors can take the current that the 7.4v Lipo can provide. But in either case the R85A

Well a 7.4v lipo on the R85 pulled it well on an M130, I don't see why a lipo cannot be used there.

Hard to explain without some diagrams. Normally this is how the semi works: 1) semi-auto cutoff/disengager is DOWN 2) as the trigger is pressed, contact block is pushed forward via a sear (starts firing), sliding over the disengager while its DOWN 3) as gears rotate, disengager is pushed UP 4) contact block is pushed up, and slides over the sear back into off position (back). Basically the lock up on most AEG occurs because: 1) The gear stops over the position that pushes the semi-auto cut-off/disengager UP 2) contact block is not pushed forward, gun is not firing

R85A1 already comes with: Metal bushings Strengthened bearing spring guide High torque motor (pulls an M130 on a 7.4v lipo at 700rpms) One way piston head Really what more is required other than a new spring? Well perhaps a new tightbore? The R85A1 comes with a 6.08mm barrel. Piston wise, I shaved off half of the 2nd last tooth. I have fired 2 mags from it and it seems to be fine, no wear at the moment. The only issue I had with it was that the hop up unit was not fitting the hop rubber properly, deforming the lip of the rubber slightly and causing occasional j

Isn't there the option of the 19 tooth CA25/G&P SR25 piston?

Anyone tried shooting airfin rounds out of the KAR98 to increase the range?

When you make the spacer make sure when it fits into the mechbox that the gears mesh with it so it doesn't grind on the first 2 teeth. If the spacer is too thin, it will break/grind down the rear tooth. If the spacer is too thick it will grind down the 2nd and 3rd teeth.

The body flex on the TM SG552 is minimal to none compared with say a TM SG550 and even the SG550 the body flex is not enough to affect accuracy when bipoded. But on the TM SG550/SG552 there is still a little movement. The HurricanE body gets rid of the tiny movement but was difficult to install as the two halves had one area where they misfit and normal assembly of the SG55X would be impossible. So yeah a lot of playing around when you disassemble them. I would highly recommend NOT to take one apart. But I am keen to see a JG or a Warrior SG552 some time, given this review

I think that this gun shouldn't be put down so quickly, its really not all that bad. I have owned WA 92FS PV WA 92FS INOX PV KSC M9 Black HW KSC M9 INOX HFC M190 compensated version, KJ M92FS compensated plastic version KJ M92FS INOX FMV KJ M9A1 CO2 version and now I got an extended "borrow" of this new KSC M9 FMV. In the feel department, the new KSC M9 FMV feels better than all of the models I have owned up there. The dense lower receiver makes up for it. Its feels and balances like a RS Beretta loaded. Next comes the WA M9s and then the new KJ M9 FMVs c

Er.... Have you guys seen KJW Glock mags? It has its fair share of casting marks. I think internet should not be serious business Best to buy one and have a look Can you chrono it, and perhaps tell me how many shots per gas fill? Or do an accuracy test?

Damn thats the barrel locking mechanism. Sold out too at uncompany. But the gun will shoot without it, I just removed mine to test.

No worries. Just remember, what you are trying to get rid of is the ragged constriction of the inside bore of the hop rubber, before the hop up nub area. The goal is also not to enlarge the breech end of the hop rubber with the dremel as that seals the gas from the blowback chamber. To bore it, take out the hop bearing and barrel and just sit the hop rubber inside the hop adjuster. Then bore from muzzle end of the hop rubber. When you drop a BB from the breech end it should fall straight through (where normally the hop rubber's constriction will prevent this from happening). NO

The hop up fix is simple: dremel and a 6mm circular sanding bit. Get rid of the jagged constriction before the hop up rub. Works on the new KSC M9/SPP/Glocks. Then realign the barrel with packing it with cellotape towards the point of aim. Since the new M9 is similar in blowback unit to the SIG I might get the SIG for a tutu...

Yeah, thanks for that. I might give it a go, I have decided to part with my TM P226, but I still want a P226 to fill the void. I had been considering a RAM 226. Yes kick is hard, very loud, but totally inaccurate. The KSC, if its accurate and consistent enough may be it.

Well I am an owner of a TM P226 and I am looking for something different. The TM P226 is superb in accuracy, more so when I installed a cheap metal frame onto it. However, the TM lacks many a things, power and gas efficiency. I have upgraded the hammer spring and recoil spring (up to 290-300fps 18*C) at the expense of recoil and gas efficiency (just over 1 magazine with FPS decreasing quite steadily). Without upgrades its 255fps at 18*C gas consumption is just under 2 mags. I am wondering if the KSC P226 would yield better power and gas efficiency over the TM?

Missing the BE HK33.

Pot Metal "is" an aluminium alloy