Brigg
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Everything posted by Brigg
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Custom gas blowback Colt 9mm smg. Based on a WE and converted to take kwc mini uzi mags. started as a pile of spare WE parts in my closet a few weeks ago. uses a RS colt slicksides upper with 9mm gas deflector and port door as well as a modified RS front sight, buffer tube, stock, grps, etc. I custom machined a new loading nozzle, magazine well block, feed ramp and valve knocker assembly to allow it to use kwc uzi mags. Its currently functional and firing at around 450 fps, though not working perfectly yet. still work to do on it to make it fieldable.
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I did have the hammer break on mine. Right where the hammer strut is connected. Luckily I was able to replace it with one from a busted Maruzen P38. I will say that I dry fired the out of that WE one so Im not overly surprised. But, that should be taken into account. The area surrounding the hammer strut is very thin and looks like its an obvious breakage point.
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Don't those need to be brazed onto the barrel and receiver? With the standard alloy receiver it probably isn't possible to install them (brazing type needed for the materials is different). With that steel kit it probably is, but for the price of the kit you'd better get a professional gunsmith to install it and not someone who'll ruin the whole receiver with poor brazing.
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This happening with a lot of shells straight out of the box. Not used at all.
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So does anyone have any advice on getting the shells to fill correctly? I'm not sure if it's my shells or the charger, but all the gas just leaks out around the shell when I try filling them.
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I would automatically assume a steel catch would damage everything it touches in a WE gun. Which is why I asked about 6061. I don't have a p90 yet but it's not out of the question. So it's worth thinking about these things beforehand. I didn't want to be one of the early adopters for this one, considering its relatively unique features. Chances are when I do get one, the first thing I'll do is start machining parts.
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Would aluminum be a good material for these bolt stops? Or would something like 6061 be too soft as well?
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on a real M870 the ejector spring is permanently installed and replacing it means either expensive gunsmith work, or, more easily and cheaply, a new receiver. So Im gussing its kinda similar on the APS. Probably put in with rivets. Youd have to pop them out and sink new ones using a press, most likely.
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This isnt *quite* finished yet as its been too cold to paint/stain, but heres an Israeli style "Less lethal" suppressed 1022 i made.The can isnt just sleeved over the original barrel like a lot of people do. I actually made a new short outer barrel that the suppressor threads onto. I also added my own touch with a left side bolt release over the mag well. The select fire trigger pack will be going onto a different project but for now its on this one.
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So, I found some used walther P-1 grips for sale for $15 and figured why not give them a shot (Robertrtg.com if anyone else wants a pair). And Im pleased to report that the Real steel grips work fine with no modification. However If you want the heel release to act as normal you do have to file an absolutely tiny bit of the rear locking peg on the inside of the grips. the WE heel release seems to rub on it a little adding a bit of friction. This might be desireable though if you want the mag release to be a bit stiffer. Now that I know they fit, I think I'll order some repro brown bakel
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Figured I'd put this here too. I tried looking for duckbill flash hiders for a while but it seems like no one makes them. So I made my own. Im not sure if its the only one out there, but i imagine there aren't too many. Still needs better paint though. Edut: Also the paint is getting done now. Originally it was painted with Aervoe OD 34087. that was way too light, like how the stock here is: The rest of the furniture is now painted with Tamiya TS-2 Dark Green. Apparently as close a match as youre likely to get to the glossier green 601 furniture. Im still w
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Hah, On my mill vise after a few hours of work =D I ground the fence off a WE A1 lower and reprofiled the mag well (Though that was by hand). Also I machined the duckbill flash hider, and takedown pins from bar stock. The hopup and barrel were machined down, the FCG notched out, and the hopup clipped, drilled and pinned so that everything fit in an unmodified RS upper. been a bunch of work so far. today I finished the 601 "flat" bolt catch too. Still an ongoing project though. I work on it when I have time and interest.
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After lots of waiting and designing and machining, I've finally made progress on my WE Colt 601 build. Still a bit left to do though. Hardest part I think was making the front pivot pin. Im using a large pin SP-1 upper, so I needed an offset bushing to adapt it. But because the lower now has no pivot pin detent, the takedown pin would just slide out. So I came up with this. Its 3 parts that screw together, with the middle being the offset large pin diameter. this way the pin doesnt fall out. And I was even able to make it look just like an original 601 pivot pin externall
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Since theres talk of A1's, Heres my custom WE based Colt 601. Still a work in progress. A lot of the parts I had to custom machine like the duckbill flash hider and an offset front pivot pin so I could use an unmodified colt SP-1 upper. Still needs a paintjob and some finishing on certain parts though.
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When I used to play paintball, air refills were free.but admission was $30 and paintballs were $100 a case ( and weren't allowed to bring your own). So the free air wasn't much compensation.
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Well try out the standard one and see how that works. If it doesn't solve the problem, then you might have any to make sure its actually the valve causing the problem and not something in the fcg.
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If you just need the flute valve that goes inside the plastic nozzle, its the same one in every WE GBBR. So just get one for an m4 or an NPAS. Unless I missed something and it uses a different one? Worst case scenario if you've got some calipers to take measurements with, I can machine you an aluminum one for a few bucks.
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Maybe the hopup bucking is swelled then? Can you take a picture of the nozzle? If its a clone the the nozzle and buckings should be replaceable with WE parts, which should be pretty cheap.
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Try oil first (Im assuming you did already though). If that doesnt help, check the O-ring at the back of the plastic nozzle assembly. They can be swelled sometimes and prevent the nozzle from retracting. Id make sure it isnt that before sanding anything.
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In that regard, I found WE rifles tend to run better with only very slight lubrication ( the m4 at least). Even the lube from green gas seems to be enough. Whenever I've tried "properly" lubricating everything, I've just wound up with a gummed up mess later.
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Keep in mind how long ago development on the p90 started. It's entirely likely that the bolt stop mechanism was designed prior to that of the AK series. It would explain a bit, I think. It's probable that they'll tweak the design in later models to work a bit better, like they did with their AR platform. That also had loads of bolt stop issues initially, but later ones are made of better material, etc, and work well enough. Time will tell, of course, but these issues will likely be worked out. Assuming sales are high enough to warrant it, I would have to guess.
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That's one of the reasons I wanted a silver one. I can make aluminum shine like chrome but I can't replicate that steel grey finish. Which means there's no point in me even trying to make a different barrel.
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Interesting that you have the steel grey version and it shoots 450 fps. Because in the US, its the silver version which shoots hot, and the grey is for cqb, firing 330fps. That kinda stunk for me since I wanted the silver one, but wanted to use it for indoor games. So I had to get the grey one.
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Keep in mind that trick works for all single stack sized mags. I was able to get good shot counts from we lugers and kjw 1911s doing the same thing. I don't know why it works, it just does.
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Wingman, try this. Fill your magazine with has normally then vent all the gas out at a good pace, not all at once but almost. Then immediately fill it again. You should notice on the second fill you should notice it takes considerably more gas. Doing that I was able to get shots numbering into the 40's. Though after the first or second fill of BBs you do need to let it warm up a bit if you want the slide to lock.
