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Everything posted by CatgutViolin

  1. Sent an email a week ago to ask the status. Was assured it would be shipped by the 24th. Sent an email yesterday asking where it is. No reply. Edit: Teammate reports he just got a ship notification and tracking #. Which is odd, because I ordered two hours before him. Crossing my fingers.
  2. Time for an update. First up, I recorded the process of making more mags (hopefully this should resolve into an embedded video if/when Youtube responds to my appeal, thanks automated flagging) I am now up to five hicap mags, for ~2500-2750 BBs before I need to reload. That seems fine for a machine gunner. Based on shop shop compressor testing, I believe I should be able to get ~8,000 shots out of a full 98/4500 tank. I was extremely skeptical of that level of efficiency until I decided to see just how many shots I get out of a green gas mag, and got 110 before it stopped being a
  3. I thought the video said that the 12 shells were because they got it as a 'deluxe kit'. I've been told the original street price was the equivalent of about $200 USD in China, but the price jumped after the ban. I figured Eagle's price was the 'there are only a few dozen of these in existence, there may never be any more, and we are the only game in town for getting them out of China' surcharge. Also because the price includes shipping, which I have to imagine is not cheap. But yeah I'd be all for a cheaper copy, because that'd be perfect for custom work. Remove the shroud and chop t
  4. The rise of cheap micro dots intended for real steel has helped out airsoft. You can now get a Holosun or Sig red dot for $100-150 USD. I have a couple of Sig Romeo 5s. The Romeo 5 uses a CR2032, but there are also variants that use AAAs. It also deactivates if it doesn't detect motion for some amount of time (not an amount I've run into during an airsoft game) so if you leave it on it won't run dead. Sig also has a good warranty. Otherwise I've had good luck with the C-Mores sold on Aliexpress for around $30 USD. Clean glass, clean dots, easy to adjust, easy to make lens protectors
  5. One of my teammates also ordered one. It's now marked sold out. Crossing my fingers.
  6. If you get gun shows or police auctions in your neck of the woods, both are good places to find old surplus Surefire forends. I got mine for $70 at a gun show, and while the incandescent bulb they come with is absolute garbage, you can buy drop-in LEDs for about $20 that bring them up to modern standards.
  7. My dudes, I have received replies. And when I asked about the US (for any fellow Yanks here): So... They say they have it in stock, I've gone ahead and ordered it, and paid extra for EMS too. This is the page, for those who haven't found it already. I remember Zeta Labs. My buddy got burned by them. But as a shotgun addict I can't pass up this opportunity. Happy to be the guinea pig for you all. I'll report updates as I have them.
  8. I sent a message to Eagle asking if they can clarify- no reason not to. But I don't imagine I'll get a reply for at least a week, given that it's the Chinese new year at the moment.
  9. Don't do that. Don't give me hope. Seriously do report back what you hear, if there's any substance to it.
  10. The DOE carbine is the Colt 633, not the 635. Shorter barrel, different handguard and front sight. It's often referred to as the DOE carbine because referring to Colt variants strictly by manufacturer designation is a pain to keep straight.
  11. I'm not sure I'd put an 11.1 in a Marui or CA that's been effective on an 8.4 NiCd; that greatly increases the risk of breaking something. A 7.4 LiPo will give comparable performance.
  12. I like it a lot. I've owned a bunch of GBBs and a couple of GBBRs over the years and this one is by far the easiest to work on and the best performing out of the box. Recoil is on par with some of the Daytonas, the hop-up works and has lots of aftermarket support, it's quite efficient, and all the functional components (in particular the massively oversized trigger mechanism parts) have shown no significant wear after ~4,000rds fired. It's also a GHK, so while mags are expensive, you have the option to DevilHunter mod them (ie convert to fill with liquid CO2 from a bottle), which helps a
  13. Got a real-steel surplus stock. Looked it over, took some measurements, decided it's not worth the effort to try to convert to airsoft use. Too many differences, and I'm petty and don't like the purple-brown color I got. Also got a real-steel gas block. This was MUCH closer to GHK spec, but had the slight problem of still containing the stub of the barrel within it (like this). Worse, the stub is interference fit, so it is basically impossible to remove non-destructively. Non-destructively. Hah. Austrian precision engineering stands no chance against an American caveman with power to
  14. But Wait, There's More! I feel like the more time I spend on this gun, the less I understand GBBs. This is turning into a full-on GBBR research project. So the T-NT setup is what I'd been doing most of my testing on to date. It produces a consistent ~300fps in the LMG configuration, on HPA, with an unrestricted nozzle. I tried the PDI. It was getting 260fps. Weird. Seems like an air leak. I swapped to my nozzle intended for green gas/propane, which is partially restricted by a grub screw, and filled a mag. Now the T-NT was doing 310, and the PDI was doing 300. The gap between th
  15. Oh yeah, and through judging the pressure drop across a 1000rd burst (80 seconds of continuous full-auto) hooked up to my pancake compressor I determined that I should expect ~6,000 shots from a full 90CI/4500PSI tank, or ~3,000 from a 68CI/3000PSI tank. More mags might be in the cards as I did not expect it to be that efficient, nor to handle the 1000rd burst with no noticeable wear or damage.
  16. While range is something that I feel I can assess pretty well just from observation, accuracy is a lot harder to gauge once it gets better than 'reliably hit a man at 100ft'. So, today I did some objective testing of accuracy on targets set up at 20yds. Don't read too much into the placement of groupings relative to the 'X', as they used different outer barrels and may not have been aligned the same. There was no holdover; all shots were fired with the rifle braced and the 'donut of death' reticle centered on the X. Test candidates: Stock hop unit, stock hop bucking, stock barr
  17. Minor update. I made two more hicaps. It went surprisingly quickly. I then tried painting all my mags in a more FDE color. After some deliberation I decided I didn't like the outcome, so I got out my can of acetone and tested on a discreet area of a GHK mag. It held up fine, so I applied acetone to strip the paint. When I pulled the hicaps out of the acetone bath and noticed that the lower halves had turned to goo, it occurred to me that the TM mags probably aren't made of the same space-age polymers as GHK. So. I broke the mags in half, discarded the TM halves, and thought abou
  18. Be still, my heart. Honestly, I'm pretty well set on getting a Northeast Uzi whenever that comes out, so I'll probably experiment with making a magwell converter for my GHK AUG. If this WE used Uzi-like mags I probably would have bought it to make a Colt DOE carbine and a head-start on the AUG idea. Just an odd decision. I wonder if there was some sort of internal game of telephone- project lead says it'd be cool to make a 9mm AR, designer says it'd be more commercially successful if it used widely-available Glock mags, engineer decides existing Glock mags won't work so makes a varia
  19. Those Glock-like mags just ruin it IMO. I'd be seriously considering one if it weren't for that.
  20. Man, this has been a day. I was going to wait to post again until I got my new parts and could properly test, but I have blown the last three hours trying to figure out the WEIRDEST problem. Okay, so, I now have three nozzles. Previously, I was using a high-power nozzle (~370-380fps on propane when unrestricted), with a grub screw mod to restrict the aperture and bring it down to 300fps. HPA was producing 300fps at ~105PSI, so comparable performance at comparable pressure. I modified the normal-power nozzle to do about 300FPS with .32s on propane. When I plugged in my HPA mag at ~105
  21. Yep, drill-and-tap was my ugly solution. My plan is to (eventually) get a second full steel barrel setup, Loctite the extension, use the grub screw to secure it further, and then fill the grub screw hole with steel-reinforced epoxy and paint to match the barrel. I should think that'll be pretty solid. I did a bit more hop testing today, actually, and two things came of it. First is that the PDI bucking is slowly getting mangled as well and started to leak, so at this point I have very little confidence in using AEG buckings in the stock hop unit and will be retiring it. Second is that, si
  22. Awesome gun, and I'm perpetually envious of that Hexagon H-Bar kit. Is it an AEG, or did you adapt the barrel setup to fit the GHK? Also sending a PM your way about the gas block. Edit: I just found your post on Reddit about it being a GHK, using a cut-down Hephaestus barrel with a variety of extensions- that's a really clever solution! Have you run into my issue where the bipod caused the H-Bar extension to rotate off, or is there something that secures the extension? Small update- I got the Samoon rail accessory, and while I was correct in my assumption that the RMR base was a separate
  23. Well, I haven't gotten around to making more hicaps or even using the thing in-game (thanks, pandemic!), but I was reminded the other day that the open-bolt trigger pack was a thing for AUG LMGs and figured hell, why not give it a try. Does it actually make the gun better? Hell no, it makes it minutely worse, since now it has lock time. Why'd I do it? 1. The real one had it and my relentless obsession with 'getting it right' won't leave me alone, so this is closer to how it should be. 2. More importantly, being open-bolt and full-auto-only are both pretty major distinctions from
  24. I did a brief look and didn't see any storefront or other means to purchase, but if it's available for sale I am all over that. Can those be had for cheaper than ~£10 apiece anywhere, or is that about the going price?
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