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FarEast

Vega Force Company FN SCAR Light Gen. III

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Lose Ambi with a Systema Mechbox? Are you talking about a regular Systema Mechbox or the Revolution? You won't be able to use the Revolution at all but a regular Systema Mechbox should fit in fine as it has the holes and grooves for the ambi. I've even had one in my VFC SCAR before. Here's how a Systema mechbox looks like :-

 

http://hokiku.com/images/systema_mechbox_v2_1_mp5.jpg

 

As for a front wiring, I think you're gonna find it tough. There's no notches or grooves for the wires to go to the front but I guess you can always file away to create some space somewhere.

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I was thinking Revo, why else go to that much trouble for just the other shell ( I know, I know). I bet you could come up with some sort of custom selector plate/disc/lever and get things running.

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ahadsz question wasn't very clear as to which Systema mechbox (I've got both). The Revolution won't go into the VFC. It's more than just selector plate customisation, 'cos the PCB is quite big. Therefore you can't drill the ambi hole or more precisely create the circular cavity for the selector gear since the PCB holding the micro switches for the selector plate is quite big. I don't think I'd wanna be drilling through the PCB :D.

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/popup_image.php?pID=8631

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Well I guess i meant revolution hmm, darn hey i know this is a little off topic but what gun would be best for putting a systema gearbox and like a termor kit to have that blowback feature? And is it possible for me to make a hole in the SCAR or not at all?

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ahadsz question wasn't very clear as to which Systema mechbox (I've got both). The Revolution won't go into the VFC. It's more than just selector plate customisation, 'cos the PCB is quite big. Therefore you can't drill the ambi hole or more precisely create the circular cavity for the selector gear since the PCB holding the micro switches for the selector plate is quite big. I don't think I'd wanna be drilling through the PCB :D.

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/popup_image.php?pID=8631

 

What if you put the PCB on top of the gearbox, and then created a physical stop so you couldn't run the fake bolt all the way back and knock it off? That's what I'd been toying with for putting a Trigger Master MOSFET onto mine. Then you'd retain the stock QD wiring for the rear battery.

 

Quick, someone send me a revo box (as hot as possible please), I'll see if I can make it work. If I can't I'll give it back, and if I can I'll keep it, but I will post pictures!

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Well I guess i meant revolution hmm, darn hey i know this is a little off topic but what gun would be best for putting a systema gearbox and like a termor kit to have that blowback feature? And is it possible for me to make a hole in the SCAR or not at all?

 

!?!? U'd lose your folding stock if U did that. Also I believe the Tremors kit is not fully compatible with the Revolution (well possibly at least the spring guide portion since the Revolution uses different type of springs).

 

What if you put the PCB on top of the gearbox, and then created a physical stop so you couldn't run the fake bolt all the way back and knock it off? That's what I'd been toying with for putting a Trigger Master MOSFET onto mine. Then you'd retain the stock QD wiring for the rear battery.

 

Quick, someone send me a revo box (as hot as possible please), I'll see if I can make it work. If I can't I'll give it back, and if I can I'll keep it, but I will post pictures!

Errr...that PCB holds the micro switches for the selector switch. I wouldn't put it on top of the mechbox :D. However, you could move the micro switch PCB in front of the trigger hole and have a custom selector that'll trigger the micro triggers further forward - that'll give you more room for the ambi hole/cavity to be drilled.

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I get you, I though it was that black casing by the plug with the board but it's that item right below the selector plate. I bet I could get that in, I might need a mule lower receiver first just to test out where to grind.

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This was a very fantastic review on the VFC scar I must say. It narrowed my 100,000 questions down to a mere 1 or 2. I actually am going to purchase this gun once it becomes available at my local air soft vendor. One question that I have been asking around a lot concerning this AEG is the battery capabilities. So anyway...

 

1. Do you believe that this gun can take a 7.6v or a 11.1v lithium battery using stock internals?

 

2.Do you think that there are necessary upgrades for Lipo battery use? A lot of people have told me that the gun out of the box can handle lipo batteries, and others have said that they needed to make modifications.

 

Thanks again, this was possible the best review of an air soft gun I have ever seen!

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Yes, the latest VFC SCARs do not have trades; at least the ones I've seen in US retailers don't. Depending on how much of a stickler you are, it could be a good or a bad thing since the trades that they used weren't correct anyway.

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Im really just looking for the best externals plus EGLM. At some point something inside will break so its not a concern of mine. By the way to the OP. This is one of the best reviews for ANY product I have ever read.

 

Oh yeah one other question do the US versions come in the case? I know it's not made very well but I was just wondering.

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I have an issue with my VFC SCAR-L that I hope someone can help me resolve. I replaced my inner barrel and bucking with a Prometheus 6.03 tight bore and Prometheus purple soft bucking. The bucking was very tight and when sliding the hop up unit over it caused the bucking to stretch and some of the material protruded where the plastic collar clips on over the inner barrel and hop up unit area. I trimmed it out, snapped on the plastic collar and put it back together.

 

After reassembly it would shoot 2-4 bb's and they would roll out the end of the barrel. I disassembled it again and noticed that there are two grub screws, one on each side of the outer barrel that when screwed in hold the hop up unit and inner barrel to the outer barrel. There is much play to set the hop up and inner barrel in the outer barrel, forward and back. First I had it pushed all the way in compressing the little spring on the hop up unit, into the outer barrel then tightened the grub screws. I took it as this was not getting a good air seal from the hop up and air nozzle.

 

Next I loosened the two grub screws and left them just snug where the hop up and inner barrel could have some movement in the outer barrel, to push against the nozzle. I reassembled and it shot great. I shot about 15-20 rounds and everything seemed fine. Two weeks later at an OP I went to chrono it and the same thing. 2-4 bb's rolled out the end when I shot it chronoed like 120fps.

 

My question is. Is the Prometheus bucking the problem, is it too thick? Is there a specific place the hop up and inner barrel have to be set in the outer barrel, then the two grub screws either tightened all the way down or just snug where the inner barrel can still move in the outer?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

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the VFC hop rubber is one of a kind. I *think* Systema rubbers work. But I tried the same as you 2 years ago. I tore one after another. They're just too fat. Common problem though.

Suggest you leave the VFC rubber and upgrade to H-nub?

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I've run Systema, Guarder, and Madbull hopup rubbers in my VFC SCAR. The H-bubs never worked in the stock low FPS setup though; no hop or jams and nothing in between.

 

The inner barrel/hop up chamber need to be held snug by the grub screws but the do need to move so you can't white knuckle them in.

 

I would go backwards and undo your changes to see if the performance improves.

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Thanks for the input all.

 

I took it back apart and I had a small amount of gap with the hop up rubber in the hop up, meaning I didn't seem to have the rubber pushed all the way in the chamber(no pun intended). I also loosened the two grub screws a little more. Now the grub screws just barely touch the outsides of the chamber, but allow the chamber to move back and forth easily. I shot a complete hi-cap with no further issues. Semi shots and full auto.

 

Just to confirm, I guess the two grub screws act as more of a guide for the chamber to move back and forth while assembled in the outer barrel? I don't recall when taking it apart the first time at what state they were in.

 

Another note, when I bought mine at my local airsoft store, it chrono'ed 420fps with .20bb's! I put a PDI 140% in it and it's around 370fps now.

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I know I've got a SCAR H but I wanted to ask this someplace that gets attention. I recently had the stock piston die on me and I replaced it with a Guarder one, now about 3/4 of the way through the piston stroke the piston jams and will no longer travel, however when I go to release the anti-reversal latch the piston flies forward, and the gear all rotate as the should. I would like to say it seems like the spring is getting jammed between the piston and the guide rod, but it dosen't seem to be the case, I've been trouble shooting this for hours and haven't made any progress.

 

Anyone ever had this happen before, anyone have any suggestions?

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Ok i understand this is for the Scar Light but i hae a question on the Scar H, hoping someone ca help me with.

 

Is there a tappet plate that is better then the stock one? All ready had to replace it after three games.

 

Thanks

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