Hedganian Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 The TM High Cycle is a fairly accurate replica of the A3-XS, which is the 9mm version of the A3, but with the 5.56mm magazine. With a bit of work, you could base an A3 on it, I'd you could make the longer rail. I've seen an AUG adapted for the STANAG magazines, I think Treadhead might have made it, but don't quote me. Could have been someone else. It was posted on here, maybe look in the AUG Pictures thread. Link to post Share on other sites
Baddbaz Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 I had one a few years back that I sold on . It was ok but a bit rough around the edges where they had frenched in the Stanag magwell . , it was so much easier to use with the Stanag mag availability and choice . Really miss it !! Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Personally, I prefer the non-stanag mags for the AUG and G36. Although the new P-mags in a long way to fixing most of the shortcomings. I heard a rumour that the AUG had, at some point, biodegradable mags sent out to the troops pre filled and intended to be discarded when empty. But they were too expensive, so normal reusable mags were used instead. Don't know how true that is. Link to post Share on other sites
Baddbaz Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Maybe its my love for using flash mags with everthing I own .getting lazy in my old age !! Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 So where does the tm high cycle and shadow aug sit ?? Are they non models as such ?? When are the manufacturers retailers going to clock on to the model that would have the highest demand . The Stanag magged / reciever aug !! It is soul destroying knowing you can order a receiver for them on the real steel site . But no manufacturer has tried to copy it .. Would sell like hot cakes . As for retailers clocking in on stanag receivers and such... Though the AUG is gaining popularity a bit, it still isn't that popular for companies to get that into it I feel. BUT as hedge said someone on this forum has constructed a Stanag receiver... its a bit of indepth mod, but it is doable. Personally I agree with hedge though, I prefer the AUG mags, and I own so many already.... No. The A2 is completely different. It has the curved cocking handle, a two part receiver where you can swap from the scope to rail without removing the barrel or receiver from the stock, and other internal changes that don't affect the airsoft copy. TM and the various clones are all A1s. What TM call the AUG Military is the standard A1 with built in scope. The flat railed version is the A1-SR (Special Receiver). The A3 and A3-SF are very different again. To make an airsoft one would be very difficult indeed based on what is currently available. You'd be better off custom making the external parts using a 3D printer, the tough part would be getting the specs. So I am right in calling it an A1SR and not an A2 awesome. Yeah I know the A2's difference, hence why them calling it an A2 never really made any sense to me. As for 3d printing the parts... other then the fact it would be all polymer, unless you will shell out money for a C&C machine, What you could do is take the real steel parts and use a 3d duplicator to copy it, then just submit it into the 3d printer program... unfortunately all this stuff is in the range of... 2000 USD? Or more. Though someone could really corner some of the airsoft market areas if they started mass producing and selling this stuff... Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 I didn't say it would be cheap, just that it might be the best way If I win the lottery, it'll be one of the first things on my list of things to do. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 I am noticing a common flaw and air leak on AUG's is the nozzle... my JG's stock one seems to have a good length, but no o-ring so I leak there, because of this I have a fps variation of about 10, to much for my liking. After checking leakage by my cylinder/piston head; cylinder/cylinder head and know that is good, I know I leak by the cylinder head/nozzle. So far I have tried guarder, and JJ airsoft aluminum off of airsoftcart.com, both seem to be to short. the JJ definitely is, guarder I am going off just by measurements. a lot of companies out there that have aftermarket ones... I was about to buy like 10 different ones and see if I can find a good one. Then I remembered that g36 aegs tend to have a long nozzle as well... so I wondered... anyone ever try to use a G36 nozzle in a aug? or is it not a good fit? I noticed two new companies on evike... avenger and hawk... Can't find any decent reviews on them. That or I was going to try SHS.... On this topic... anyone ever take an exact measurement with a micrometer of their air nozzle? Just added two more to the list... Core and Lonex make nozzles as well.... BUT so far the 2 reviews for each I have read say the leak everywhere.. AND ANOTHER THING I think I have asked this before... I average about 315-325 fps with my AUG on .30 BB's. With that I can hit a torso sized target at 200 feet easily, don't know past that, never had a chance to measure it, but that for me is "flat line" trajectory. What is everyone else performing at? Wondering cause I want to know if I am under par here. Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 Strange that your nozzles are short. AUG nozzles are the longest in the marui designed guns (excl G&G or A&K) I have had the marui, systema, Guarder, JG, CA, all seal air fine. The question is whether the tappet plate front is resting forward enough. There are two reasons why it would not stop forward enough: - The sector gear shaft is stopping it from resting forward, a common manufacturing issue, leading to breakages of tappet plate. - The tappet is too thick in the front, requires filing. You can get it to rest forward by either filing the front of the tappet, or dremeling the tappet where the sector gear shaft touches the tappet. The other issue is the backplate getting loose, from the vibration of the mechbox, which results in the mechbox moving backwards and deforming the backplate. Gluing a 2mm hard rubber onto the back plate will ensure the mechbox is pushed forward at all times. I managed to get my CA to shoot 450fps on a M120 spring, 410fps on 0.25g, on a 55m lasered figure 12 (prone target) hit rate is 100%, point of aim at 55m (rifle is zeroed at 25m so BBs float high beyond 25m and then is on pont of aim at 60m) Link to post Share on other sites
Baddbaz Posted August 21, 2014 Report Share Posted August 21, 2014 Rearward gearbox migration is a known fault on the Augs. . Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 I don't have the gearbox migration issue, already cured that. So it could be my tappet plate? It has never broken, and it has well over 10000 rounds past it, not even sure how many. I was planning to change gears to high torque gears soon, maybe change the tappet plate while Im at it? any recommended? Going to be adding SHS 32:1 gears.... going up to a 135 spring. Not sure what I should expect with this type of increase. Going to have to only use lipo's though if I want any type of trigger response. Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 I think if you are worried about airseal you need to check it against a rated spring. Most M120s will clock in around 400+- 20fps on .20gs. If your Steyr can't seal air then it will shoot under that by around 30fps or more. The fix could be as simple as changing the hop rubber, rather than the nozzle. There is an optimum match of nozzle to rubber to hop unit to barrel so have to test for that too. If your tappet is fine then test other things. I would have the mech open, nozzle and tappet installed and put the barrel against the mechbox to test whether the nozzle is reaching the hop rubber. It should, as AUG nozzles are excessively long. If it reaches, then its just a matter of finding the right nozzle to the right rubber for the right barrel. I would change rubber first. Test FPS change at each change of rubber. Buy a variety of hop rubbers for testing, if the rubbers aren't making a difference then buy a whole bunch of nozzles for testing, then if that doesn't work, buy a bunch of hop units, then if that doesn't work buy a bunch of barrels. Usually the rubber is the culprit, or the hop unit, then the nozzle. Though Steyrs I haven't really had much issues with airseal at all, but yeah getting rid of the stock barrel usually helps. M14s however are a PITA. Link to post Share on other sites
imprzaWRC Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 Another mod you can try is to add heat shrink to the nozzle (can add thickness and also length, so can get better fitment between the nozzle and the hop rubber). Once testing is done, the heat shrink can be glued to the nozzle. Link to post Share on other sites
Jibbity Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 JG stock air nozzles are longer than Marui spec, so most of the aftermarket ones will be shorter than stock. The blue Classic Army ones are pretty close. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Ok so what FPS variation are you guys experiencing on a good day? Currently I have a prome 6.03 with a prome purple soft bucking and it is flat hopped. (had an R-hop, found it was more of a pain in the *albatross* and I got the same results from the flat) The nozzle is stock JG so is the tappet plate. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 I don't get why the edit button disappears... anyway.... So I checked my nozzle to bucking seal with the light test, and it appears to seal quite well. So the only location I think can still leak is nozzle to cyl head.... as it has no O-rings. I will have to swap nozzles out do the light test and see how they handle. Rather not buy every nozzle on the planet though. (for those that don't know what the light test is, you take out your gearbox, pop your anti reversal latch so the nozzle is at its forward position, reassemble the gun and then shine a light through the feed nipple and look down the barrel, no light, no leaks.) Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 It isn't fool proof. Best do a blow best instead. Same idea just blow at the muzzle end and listen/feel the leakage instead. Then there is the more destructive blow test whereby you use a battery with the lowest voltage that would turn the gun over, place a tissue paper over the BB feeding unit, and block the muzzle with your finger. Fire one shot. Assuming all other areas have no airseal issue, If the tissue paper moves then the air is leaking from the nozzle to hop rubber interface. To identify the cylinder head to nozzle airseal issue you have to ensure the piston head to cylinder has no issues first then perform a blow test with the nozzle fully forward and listen/feel for airleak. To fix it is even more simple. To get a good airseal we merely want to thicken the plastic inside of the nozzle to match the diameter of the cylinder head. So easy fix is using super glue as a way to add extra layer of plastic. - Clean the inside of the nozzle to remove all grease. - Clean the cylinder head nozzle to remove grease. - We are using the cylinder head nozzle as a cast to get the thickening right, so we don't want super glue to bind to the cylinder nozzle. Spray some oil based lubricant on the cylinder nozzle. - Apply thin layer of super glue to inside of air nozzle - Place it onto the cylinder head - After 30 sec, remove the nozzle. - Check cylinder nozzle for super glue, scratch off if necessary - Wait about 3 minutes for super glue to set in the air nozzle. - Put airnozzle back onto cylinder head and test fit and airseal. - If loose, repeat process - If too tight (i.e. airnozzle does not move freely on cylinder head), use circular file to remove thickness of super glue inside air nozzle, This mod should be a perfect fit and will last indefinately so long as no oil/silicone based lube is used in the piston/cylinder, and will seal air very well and runs very clean without lube affecting accuracy. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 So get the nozzle to its forward position and then shoot air into the feed nipple then listen/feel for air coming out of the barrel? I've done the paper trick before where you cut out a small square of paper and place it over the feed nipple and shoot, if it goes flying it leaks. When I do it it generally just shifts around from shock of the gearbox moving, doesn't fly away. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Wait one question... you said it will seal indefinitely so long no silicone/oil based lube is used in the piston/cyl, but isn't silicone grease what you use to lube the piston o-ring? Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Yeah I run all my AEGs dry in the piston so my hop/barrel is always dry and never requires cleaning. Most manufacturers use lube around the piston O-rings to compensate for the poor fitting O-ring to cylinder dimensions. Once you remove the oil/grease you will find that the O-ring is either poor sealing, or slightly too large for the cylinder which increases in the friction between the piston and the cylinder wall, hence why the liberal application of lube. I just so happen to have a number of O-rings from various manufacturers which are all just varied in sizing hence I nearly always find the right sizing O-ring for the right cylinder. Superglue "should" be ok with most oils and organic solvents, but it does react and loosen over time with exposure. I also do not use silicone oils because it coats rubbers and make them harden over time, such as hop rubbers and O-rings making them ineffective. One of many reasons why car wheel shiners uses a very mild silicone spray rather than regular silicone oils as it makes tires crack. Link to post Share on other sites
imprzaWRC Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 Anybody has the newer JG AUG A3? I got mine 5 months ago and it seemed to have a different gearbox than all the youtubes I have seen. I'm having a problem disassembling the gearbox. The top part where it houses the dust cover won't slide off. All youtubes I've watched seemed to have a very easy way of removing it. In youtube, it seems to have silvery colored gearbox body. Mine's anodized black. Cannot seem to find anything locking that thing. Link to post Share on other sites
Deve Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 The top plate on v3s are normally held on by ribs on the case fitting into the small slots on the plate (the ones near the back). If it's stiff, try and pry the end up with a flat bladed screwdriver and then push forwards. If this fails, a bigger flat blade screwdriver and hammer and try to tap it forward until it clears the rib. Link to post Share on other sites
imprzaWRC Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 Thanks for the advice. Got it out safely. Took some imagination to get it out (flat head didn't work). Needed some hammering. Link to post Share on other sites
Deve Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 Good 'ol hammerin'. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 So I have read on a few forums through my googling that the SHS G36 aluminum nozzle is the same length as a JG AUG nozzle.... And it's O-ringed.... Taking a leap of faith here, going to try it out. Also apparently there are a few guns that have VERY long nozzles... Anyone ever try a cut to fit? Link to post Share on other sites
wupaa Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 So I have read on a few forums through my googling that the SHS G36 aluminum nozzle is the same length as a JG AUG nozzle.... And it's O-ringed.... Taking a leap of faith here, going to try it out. Also apparently there are a few guns that have VERY long nozzles... Anyone ever try a cut to fit? Cutting down an oversized nozzle for your gun is a mod by itself wich is awesome for perfect air seal. Link to post Share on other sites
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