Steyr AUG FAQ and Helpdesk

[DarkLite]

I thought I might as well post up on here:

 

I've got an Aug with a totally buggered motor cage.Where can I go about getting tm spares?

[Hedganian]

Your sidebar says you're in Hong Kong. You shouldn't have trouble finding spares...

 

If you were in the UK, I'd direct you to the link in my Sig where I'm selling the back end of a TM AUG that's in pretty much perfect condition. Other than that, I'd just haunt the Sales section until someone has what you're looking for.

[DarkLite]

Your sidebar says you're in Hong Kong. You shouldn't have trouble finding spares...

You'd think so, but it's apparently a pretty unusual part to fail so no-one stocks it. Most have just pointed me to buying a brand new JG AUG instead, but that's a bit more than I'd like.

[Jibbity]

Well I am back again.... Was thinking about doing some upgrades internally to the AUG. Still would like to get some more range out of it and such. I was just wondering what parts people recommend from experience.

 

Also, is boring up the cylinder worth it and how much of an approvement am I looking to see with that?

 

So far my upgrade list is: M120 Spring, Metal Ball Bearing Spring Guide, Non ported cylinder, Cylinder Head, Air nozzle, Piston head/Piston/O-rings if the compression with the new cylinder is bad. These are the parts I was thinking:

 

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_63_634&products_id=25973&osCsid=54c663602cfb2527513efc9aa9ffed6a   Nozzle

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_611_333&products_id=32455 Spring

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_401&products_id=26876 Spring Guide

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_348&products_id=25869 Cylinder

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_347&products_id=25964 Cylinder Head

 

These were my ideas for Piston, and Piston Head:

 

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_75_393&products_id=26294 Systema Piston

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_75_393&products_id=26499 Guarder Piston

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_74&products_id=26509 Prome Piston Head

 

There is also this stuff.... It is some type of black rubber I have been told people put on the piston head. I know very descriptive but I was also thinking of doing that to.

 

Also does anyone recommend a good 6.01 barrel? OR should I stay 6.03? I am using a Bravo 6.03 right now, it isn't to bad. I want to polish it but I don't know how.

 

All input welcome, thank you.

FPS and ROF targets? That could change part choices.

 

Generally speaking, there isn't need to replace every component in your gearbox. If it ain't broke...

 

You definitely want to:

 

Shim from the bevel gear

Correct Angle of Engagement

- Sorbothane on the Cylinder head provides some shock protection as well.

- remove the 2nd piston tooth

 

Maximize Compression

- polish the cylinder

- piston head o ring (#14)

- new nozzle, I get the best seal with the Classic army ones for the AUG

- make sure you stock cylinder head seals, if not use teflon tape or RTV sealant.

 

Some good, up to date information here:

http://airsofttutorials.com/

 

The shimming tutorial is technically accurate but very very long winded and not all of that applies to V3 gearboxes.

 

Unless you are going for high ROF or FPS your stock gears/piston/motor will all be fine.

You don't need a bore up cylinder, a full cylinder should be fine. I usually get the best seal from polished brass cylinders.

You don't need a 6.01 barrel, in fact it may degrade accuracy. 

For range, install an R-hop or flat hop. Flat hop you can do for pretty much free. Avoid unnecessary internal parts and you can possibly afford a pre R-hopped barrel at Clandestine. 

 

Buy stuff here and save money. Small retailers with great customer service.

http://clandestineairsoft.com/

http://hivemindairsoft.com/

 

*edit* a bearing spring guide is typically a good investment.

[Mike Obrien]

FPS and ROF targets? That could change part choices.

 

 

You don't need a bore up cylinder, a full cylinder should be fine. I usually get the best seal from polished brass cylinders.

 

For range, install an R-hop or flat hop. Flat hop you can do for pretty much free. Avoid unnecessary internal parts and you can possibly afford a pre R-hopped barrel at Clandestine. 

 

Range and accuracy is what I am mostly looking for. FPS to so you can't see it coming and step out of the way. ROF doesn't really matter to me, I use semi only.

 

A bore up would increase your compression chamber size thus more air thus more to push the BB right?  Is that the only point? is there more to it? is it a good upgrade?

 

As for R-hop and Flat Hop Mods, I think I will go ahead and take a shot at an R-hop. It is pretty cheap, and seems to be the best. The R-hop patch looks to literally just be a cut piece of small tubing, usually clear. as for a nub, I guess I could get some sorbo, or even find an eraser laying around somewhere and cut a box. Only thing left to research is that glue stuff... CA they abbreviate it as. As for the hop window on the barrel, you can work with it the way it is, and that is an R-hop. extending it and having a modded hop window it becomes an ER-hop. I may try that one day but I am not comfortable dremeling my hop window at the moment.

 

As for shimming and gears and such all of that is done for me by a gentleman who goes by oldman. So shimming and such isn't my issue. I am aiming for higher compression cause as far as I have researched the better and the more you compress the more range you can get out of it. Right now as is I do get perfect compression with the stock cylinder, piston, o-ring, and piston head. But I want more:D

 

So other then the R-hop, will what I mentioned and what I wish to upgrade give me better range? and are these parts people have used and liked? or has someone used something else they felt was better?

[Baddbaz]

A bore up kit is only any good if you have the barrel length to use it . Mine uses a psg 1 length barrel so it is viable . On a shorter barrel it is an expensive and uneccesary upgrade . . If you are after accuracy . Spend the time and effort to pack the barrel in tightly to reduce resonance and movement.. Also use ptfe tape to seal every air leak you can find fps , consistancy between shots is what you need . The shadow aug ( search it ) had this done and its range and accuracy was exeptional . . If you do go down the long barrel route you will need a h bar or phantom kit to enable it to fit .

[Mike Obrien]

A bore up kit is only any good if you have the barrel length to use it . Mine uses a psg 1 length barrel so it is viable . On a shorter barrel it is an expensive and uneccesary upgrade . . If you are after accuracy . Spend the time and effort to pack the barrel in tightly to reduce resonance and movement.. Also use ptfe tape to seal every air leak you can find fps , consistancy between shots is what you need . The shadow aug ( search it ) had this done and its range and accuracy was exeptional . . If you do go down the long barrel route you will need a h bar or phantom kit to enable it to fit .

I don't want to modify the length of the AUG for I like the way it looks like as is. If anything I would put a suppressor on it cause I think it looks cool but Im sure someone on here is going to make fun of me The inner barrel is actually really snug on my aug, probably because the Bravo Barrel is a little thick, but I can try to put some tape or something in there. And call me stupid but... what is ptfe tape?

[Bloodsword]

Google is your friend. Ptfe tape is thin teflon tape which is used for thread sealing, can be used in other sealing applications too.

[Baddbaz]

If you are going to fit a suppressor to it you can use it to hide the longer barrel . As they do in the phantom and shadow versions .

The short phantom kit is only a minor length change but the full length additional part makes the aug into a hockey stick in length.

[Mike Obrien]

Google is your friend. Ptfe tape is thin teflon tape which is used for thread sealing, can be used in other sealing applications too.

Yeah google was my friend I just forgot to edit it sorry

 

If you are going to fit a suppressor to it you can use it to hide the longer barrel . As they do in the phantom and shadow versions .

The short phantom kit is only a minor length change but the full length additional part makes the aug into a hockey stick in length.

Yeah I know I could use it to hide it but I don't know if I want to do it yet. I don't like long guns, why I went bullpup in the first place. I wanted to range of a long gun, but in a smaller package.

[Mike Obrien]

Range and accuracy is what I am mostly looking for. FPS to so you can't see it coming and step out of the way. ROF doesn't really matter to me, I use semi only.

 

A bore up would increase your compression chamber size thus more air thus more to push the BB right?  Is that the only point? is there more to it? is it a good upgrade?

 

As for R-hop and Flat Hop Mods, I think I will go ahead and take a shot at an R-hop. It is pretty cheap, and seems to be the best. The R-hop patch looks to literally just be a cut piece of small tubing, usually clear. as for a nub, I guess I could get some sorbo, or even find an eraser laying around somewhere and cut a box. Only thing left to research is that glue stuff... CA they abbreviate it as. As for the hop window on the barrel, you can work with it the way it is, and that is an R-hop. extending it and having a modded hop window it becomes an ER-hop. I may try that one day but I am not comfortable dremeling my hop window at the moment.

 

As for shimming and gears and such all of that is done for me by a gentleman who goes by oldman. So shimming and such isn't my issue. I am aiming for higher compression cause as far as I have researched the better and the more you compress the more range you can get out of it. Right now as is I do get perfect compression with the stock cylinder, piston, o-ring, and piston head. But I want more:D

 

So other then the R-hop, will what I mentioned and what I wish to upgrade give me better range? and are these parts people have used and liked? or has someone used something else they felt was better?

 Reposting this cause I don't think anyone noticed due to the page change. If it is an issue a double post I then just delete it please, not looking to get in trouble here

[Jibbity]

As much as I love my AUG, it really is a pretty poor DMR platform. There are too many parts and too much movement in the barrel group. A lot of which can only be fixed with heavy modification. That being said...

 

A longer barrel will not really do anything for you but provide more FPS in combination with a bore up. But you are better off (way cheaper) just putting in a heavier spring.

 

If you are going semi only, a neo-magnet torque motor can increase your trigger response dramatically in combination with a good Lipo. Some JGs come stock with the JG Blue motor which is a good choice. 

 

CA is super glue

 

Compression is just making sure that you have good airseal and should be checked from the piston all the way to the barrel. This is where I have always had issues with my AUGs, it is pretty difficult to get perfect nozzle to bucking compression.

 

You don't need even half of those parts that you listed.

[Baddbaz]

On mine I found out the bore up kit allowed me to use a weaker spring due to the increase in compression . Which increased my trigger response and upped my Rof without having to fit a high speed gear set .. As said a neo motor will also do this and give better battery life .

A MOSFET I can highly reccomend as it reduces trigger contact wear massively . And also increases trigger response.

Also advisable is fitting a small bit of rubber shrouding around the inside of the trigger well , as bbs seem to be magnetised to jamming up inside this bit and obstructing the triggers movement till shaken out.

Classic army Augs seem to be prone to the body cracking around the trigger unit . Have seen half a dozen or so with this problem now .

If you can find an all metal bodied hop unit it solves a lot of airleak problems on Augs . Otherwise ptfe is the only decent cure .

Also another bugbear is rearward gearbox migration which I found the only permanent cure was to fit a metal plate to replace the plastic one found inside the butt plate end of the gun . Once the gearbox is wedged permanently forward and can't move rearward airseal improves quite a bit

[Jibbity]

Also advisable is fitting a small bit of rubber shrouding around the inside of the trigger well , as bbs seem to be magnetised to jamming up inside this bit and obstructing the triggers movement till shaken out.

 

Hahaha, yeah...This is one of the main reasons I converted over to a micro-switch trigger and BTC Chimera. I got to throw out that trigger bar and seal up the magwell properly, no more rattling AUG. On the downside I will have to source a new tactical maraca to join the band at the after party.

[Baddbaz]

Hahaha, yeah...This is one of the main reasons I converted over to a micro-switch trigger and BTC Chimera. I got to throw out that trigger bar and seal up the magwell properly, no more rattling AUG. On the downside I will have to source a new tactical maraca to join the band at the after party.

Never thought of it as a tactical instrument lol .

I didn't realise the chimera MOSFET / unit could be used to micro switch the trigger ! Does semi auto use remain intact with the micro switch ,??

[Jibbity]

Never thought of it as a tactical instrument lol .

I didn't realise the chimera MOSFET / unit could be used to micro switch the trigger ! Does semi auto use remain intact with the micro switch ,??

The Chimera has data cables that connect to the trigger board with the trigger,cutoff, and selector switches. I spliced wires into the data cables from a microswitch for the trigger and a microswitch for the selector (have the modded sector that pushes halfway for semi). It would be even easier to put two microswitches on the trigger to preserve the dual stage trigger.

 

Photos:

 

 

[Baddbaz]

Giving me ideas now , thanks for the photos makes it easier to get my head around the installation .

Also for anyone using ptfe tape , it is available in two thicknessesand types . Standard is normally used for winding around threads, and wrapping washers , metal flanges etc to stop leakage finding its way around the threads etc . Gas fitters ptfe is double the thickness and gas / water proof it is ideal for sealing gas mags , barrels , and anything that uses a higher pressure . It is also stronger and has marginally different property's to the thinner version . It does not tear or rip as easily in use and it expands slightly when put in contact with gasses or water.

The main plus is that you have not got to do wind after wind to reach the thickness you require on mags etc . Its downside is that it can be harder to remove , usually requiring a sharp blade to cut through it .

Hope this helps you guys out .

[Jibbity]

Giving me ideas now , thanks for the photos makes it easier to get my head around the installation .

 

 

It was well worth the time and money investment in my opinion. The trigger is sooooo much nicer. In fact, you can even set your microswitch so that it activates after the semi/full trigger detents and get a simulated trigger break. Plus you get all the benefits of a computerized mosfet,

[Hedganian]

As much as I love my AUG, it really is a pretty poor DMR platform. There are too many parts and too much movement in the barrel group. A lot of which can only be fixed with heavy modification. That being said...

 

A longer barrel will not really do anything for you but provide more FPS in combination with a bore up. But you are better off (way cheaper) just putting in a heavier spring.

 

 

 

Get an H-Bar. Perfect DMR or Squad Support weapon. If you want to go DMR, get the railed receiver and stick a nice scope on there. Like this:

 

 

The eagle-eyed amongst you may notice the 42-round magazine. Shiny.

 

Also - on mine, at least - tuning the H-Bar to the maximum FPS you want results in a slight drop in FPS when using the shorter barrels. 350 FPS with the H-Bar barrel gave about 335 with the standard length and about 315 with the really short Para/Commando barrel.

[Mike Obrien]

So uh guys, haven't upgraded anything yet, haven't changed anything yet. But today I was at a airsoft game and a chrono was available. I decided to chrono my AUG and I am still slightly caught in shock and awe at what I found.... First shot 323 fps.... second shot 323 fps.... third shot 323 fps.... fourth shot 323 fps.... shall I keep going? Not once did it change, it was a constant 323 FPS. (oh using .25g) I first thought the chrono was broken so I chrono'd three other guns, all varied there fps, one was really bad going from 300 to 290 to 140 back to 300. Anyway not important... my question is... is this really possible if so how have I done this? and will installing a full seal cylinder+ ER-hop affect it?

[Jibbity]

Madbull chronos are notorious for falsely repeating values, so it is in the realm of possibility that they were faulty readings.

 

Both of those things will affect your airseal. Well...not the ER hop itself, but the installation process as you will have to refit the bucking and such.

[Mike Obrien]

It wasn't a madbull chrono that much I do know. I think it was this one: http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_134&products_id=24664&osCsid=9fe8532a997c7cd20fb5942360b3a62d

 

As for the two things I mentioned I figured it would.... Well hope I can maintain that if it really is what I have. Does 323 sound low for .25s? Only major upgrade that would affect FPS would be a 6.03 and I guess the prome bucking and nub.

[Hedganian]

It's always better to chrono with .2s to ensure a fair comparison.

 

Using 0.25g BBs with an FPS of 323 works out to approx 361 FPS with 0.2g BBs, giving an estimated range of 163 feet.

 

361 with 0.2s would be over UK site limits, but since you're in the US, you should be fine. It's also pretty impressive for a non-upgraded gearbox, even with a tightbore barrel...

[Mike Obrien]

It's always better to chrono with .2s to ensure a fair comparison.

 

Using 0.25g BBs with an FPS of 323 works out to approx 361 FPS with 0.2g BBs, giving an estimated range of 163 feet.

 

361 with 0.2s would be over UK site limits, but since you're in the US, you should be fine. It's also pretty impressive for a non-upgraded gearbox, even with a tightbore barrel...

Only thing done to the gearbox is a shim job. other then that stock internals.  so my estimated range is 163 feet with .2s? is that straight line or lobbed?

[Hedganian]

No idea, data from http://www.gamepod.com/fps_calculator.php