-=OGGY=- Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 (edited) Also, BTW, I don't have the gun anymore...as a matter of fact I don't have any AEG's anymore. I decided to go GBB (see sig and avatar) so I really can't answer many more questions about the gun, but from what I remember (i have a pretty good memory) here is my final verdict: Scale is 1-10, 10 is best. Externals: 8 (crappy paint on reciever, good stock texture, nice barrel color, nice trades, some seam lines) Internals: 7 (nice looking parts, no grease, piston head has stress mark, good shimming, I am ignoring my first gun...we will call that a lemon) Value: 11 ($100 stock, $70 body, $75 GB, $75 barrel, $30 hop-up and barrel, $70 scope, $100 RAS = $520....FOR $310!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) Verdict: 8.5ish (nice externals for the most part, glorious value, but poor job in the factory with greasing/OK internals) Edited May 14, 2009 by -=OGGY=- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 I am having this weird problem with my charging handle/body... When you pull the handle back past a certian point it comes out of the track and then it doesn't engage the mock bolt catch. VERY annoying and I can't figure out how to fit it.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
-=OGGY=- Posted May 16, 2009 Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 Oh BTW, I actually have my trigger spring left over, so if you are still looking for one we can work something out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted May 16, 2009 Report Share Posted May 16, 2009 I got a new one for free It appears they are actually just tappet plate(ver 2 tappet anyway) springs.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 I should receive my G&P MK14 Crane Proto Sand version tonight. Gonna post asap after examining it here. B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rang3r Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Can anyone explain me how to disconnect gearbox from the body? If possible, with some pictures showing what to do. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) Which part are you stuck on? Post pics so I can help ya Edited July 1, 2009 by Vercingetorix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
he who hides in bush Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 how solid are the stocks on these because i have had problems with g&g stocks cracking off at the grip Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 (edited) It does creak a bit, but it most definitely won't snap. The G&G/CA synthetic stocks snapping is a common problem with them and most all CA/G&G syn. stocks snap at some point or other in their life. Edited July 9, 2009 by Vercingetorix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
he who hides in bush Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 Also does anyone have the proto version, i ordered one and i dont know what i got into any pics or internal info i can get would be great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
he who hides in bush Posted July 9, 2009 Report Share Posted July 9, 2009 Also does anyone have the proto version, i ordered one and i dont know what i got into any pics or internal info i can get would be great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted July 20, 2009 Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 I wrote this for a airsoft-barracks forum member asking about the rifle: My experiences with this rifle are VERY mixed. Internals wise, stock, it is very hit or miss. I know a bunch of people had great innards, well shimmed and lubed, good compression, etc. I didn't. Compression was alright (better than most clones anyway), the piston was a regular G&P white, but it had G&P's trademark retarded piston weight which has the tendency to kill pistons very early. Take that out and your piston should last quite a bit longer. The gears were the main failing point on mine. 1000 rounds and I SHREDDED the spur gear. I think it was missing something like 8 teeth when I opened her up.... The gears are supposed to be steel. The pinion, bevel and sector gears all were. They were nice and beefy, heavy, bemoaning good quality. The spur was a lightweight potmetal POS. This is only the case on my gun, most others I've talked to got good gears. So again, I dunno what happened there. Another crappy internal part is the spring guide. It is a shiny plastic affair that probably couldn't take an m120. Also, they went cheap and didn't replicate TM's great physical and electrical safety. It is only electrical on the G&P version. This isn't a problem, but TM's was better. I know 2-3 people got hairline-cracked gearboxes from the factory (I didn't, knock on wood). The hopup and barrel and all are fine, and perform alright. The range is decent, as is accuracy stock. The receiver gave me some problems.... Whenever you lock the bolt/charging handle back and release it the charging handle comes out of its track. This is very annoying, and I am still trying to figure out why it happens on my G&P and not the TM, and if I can fix it. Heft wise, yes she is heavy, but not near EBR heavy. It comes with a very nice steel barrel, and other external parts. I tried giving it a socom length barrel and a M14 suppressor but it is just FAR to front heavy and way to long for a DMR gun, so I changed it back to the original long steel barrel which is quite manageable. Lastly, the paint is very cheap and wears of merely from racking the charging handle. This isn't really a big deal as a can of alumahyde can fix that up easily, but it is still annoying. In the end I am ambivalent about the gun, as I only bought it for the externals, which are quite good. The stock is great, as is the RAS (great quality), Scope(also great) and barrel. The receiver is decent, but because of the paint problem(this is limited to the receiver, the paint on the barrel and RAR is great) and charging handle problem, otherwise it'd be top notch. Internally, if you get a good gun, it is fine (great GB shell, for me anyway, along with the piston and head, spring, and bearings; the motor is one of the best cost effective motors around). I'd say go for it because even with the internals replaced, the gun costs far less than a TM, but is upgraded and has expensive externals. So if you plan on making it into a high FPS upgraded DMR, yes it is worth it and get it IMO. Eventually I'll write an in depth review. The problem is since it broke and I overhauled it, I can't really give to many comments on stock performance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schaap Posted July 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 Thank you Vercingetorix for your 'in depth' look of this DMR. It has been almost 6 months since the original review has been written. This has given (I think) Vercingetorix and me a chance to have a good look at the DMR. It might not be a bad idea to rewrite it based on our conclussions. My exterior experience is on-par with Vercingetorix (though a steel trigger and safety would have been nice ) Externally, I seem to be more lucky. I have not had any gear failures or disfigured gearbox shell. A friend and I have both played a day at a CQB/Woodland terrain with the M14 DMR; as I now have some "in-game" experience with it, I think it is only fair that I write my experiences down. The DMR is pretty much stock. The pistonhead has been swapped with a bearing version and the hop-up bucking is replaced by a guarder clear one. It chronos at 330-335fps with .20gr. The first day, we used a 7.4V 700mAh LiPo, the second day a 9.6V 1100mAh NiMH. Both give about the same rate of fire (18-19 r.p.s) The M120 motor does a good job at keeping the trigger response high. If you are going to use the M14 on full automatic, I would recommend NOT to use anything higher than these voltages. So how does it play? I. The weight: like said, it is heavy, especially at the front. Unless I have an adrenaline rush, it is hard for me to keep the M14 pointed up for more than a few minutes. But I guess it is not a shame, or even is a part of playing with a DMR, to lay on the ground or support your DMR on branches or windows. II. The scope: the image is absolutely spotless. Unlike some think, a magnification can even be handy in airsoft games. Spotting well camouflaged OpFor at 50 meters can be hard with the naked eye. I found myself using it alot for team recognition. III. Trigger reponse: for a DMR rifle, trigger response is a very important factor. The G&P M120 motor does a great job in keeping this nice. However, I do not think the internal assembly will be able to co-op with a 11.1V LiPo. IV. "Hey sniper...": is what you hear at least a 20 times a day on the field. My team had a lack of true sniper, and my teammates often pointed at the OpFor 70 or 80 meters away, expecting me to hit them. So if you buy this replica, be sure you are willing to live up to the roll of "supporting sniper". V. "The shoosting": at the distances you aim at hitting with a DMR replica, the standard barrel just doesn't do. The spread is just too high. Next to that, it can be frustrating that people ask you to hit someone at 70m because you are "the DMR-guy". But you cannot live up to this due to the low stock accuracy. Unfortunatly, semi-AEG snipers are in a gray area and are not allowed to have a higher muzzle velocity. So if you plan on making it into a high FPS upgraded DMR, yes it is worth it and get it IMO. Agreed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bjorn Posted July 20, 2009 Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 My experiences with the MK14 version are: Under 1000 rounds - broken gearbox shell, broken spur gear, broken 7mm bearings, broken piston due to bad AOE - all stock gearbox parts. Paint flakes off easy, non steel parts are pretty much pot metal, I have broken 2 safety thingies already just by dismantling the gun lol. For the money - it is okay. I still would suggest going the Cyma Socom route. B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted July 20, 2009 Report Share Posted July 20, 2009 Oh yeah, I've been through 3 trigger springs... Forgot about those little buggers Also, with a TM hop-up unit installed, it seems like I cannot completely engage the hop-up for some reason.... As for in game play, with the bipod(Harris BRMS) I find it very front heavy. But I added a lower rail to accommodate a vert grip, and with that addition it is reasonably comfortable to handle. I tried playing with the shorter EBR steel barrel and G&P SEI 7.62 silencer. The extremely long length of the silencer and the fact that it is so far in front of you makes it a *badgeress* to hold, let alone shoulder, so I switched back to the regular old G&P long steel barrel(which is very nice material btw). With all my upgrades in place she shoots like a dream. For some reason the Cratus spring I was testing for the ARS it shoots very low for a DMR gun, only 360fps w/ .25s.... SO I'll be swapping in my Guarder SP150 soon. But with the TM hop-up unit and bucking, along with a DBC barrel and pakayama nozzle, it is pinpoint accurate at 100ft and easily torso sized accurate at 150-170 ft. Not bad for a 360 fps gun..... ONce I upgrade it to the mid to high 400 range I'll be completely satisfied Oh and my systema magnum long type does in fact work perfectly when the aforementioned mod was done to it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iaamagnum Posted July 23, 2009 Report Share Posted July 23, 2009 Great review, gun looks great. ive always wanted a m21, i may have to get one of these. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
woz Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 My barrel came jammed with something that resembles cosmoline. Jams up, especially with this hop up on. Anyone have any detailed take down instructions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 How far are you looking to take it down? And my whole gun was saturated in that oily gunk ######. And I still haven't figured out my re-occurring 100 fps loss. All the seal I checked were spot on, the spring is definitely a hard shooting one(as tested in a 249), so what gives? I'll have to try the gb in a TM body and see what happens. *suitcasey* G&P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aliensexgangchildren Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 where did you guys order yours from that sent it covered in grease? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
woz Posted November 19, 2009 Report Share Posted November 19, 2009 where did you guys order yours from that sent it covered in grease? It was only the inner barrel that was coated in some weird green funky stuff. If the inner barrel is brass it may have even been tarnish. What ever it was it made the gun very inaccurate and jam up in single fire mode. I bought it from WGC. I'm looking to dismantle it enough to take the barrel out and really clean it... that and yesterday's dissasembly didn't go to hot (just one of those days ) so I will also need to take off the safety switch to replace it (suggestions on where to buy one are welcomed). It looks like I'll have to rethread the front retaining set screw too, the one right next to the gas bolt. I promise I was careful, it was just a bad day lol. Proper instructions will help immensely. Thanks guys Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted November 20, 2009 Report Share Posted November 20, 2009 Ouch, I've had bad days like that before too. They suck. In fact, every time I work on this gun is a bad day, it never quits being a *badgeress*. I've spend literally over 30 hours on this build and probably in excess of 6-700$ in parts alone and I still can't get it to compress worth a damn Frekin POS. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
woz Posted November 22, 2009 Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 Will this work on the gun? http://echo1usa.com/English/index.php?main...c3ff928e2a641b7 Also I found this video. Is it applicable? Thoughts, comments? He stops just short of removing the inner barrel. Does it just slide out of the "upper receiver" near the end of the video or is there more disassembly required? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVn2MIWPwFg...feature=related Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 Yes and Yes. The video is applicable and decent, though not great. If you need any specific help with any part in particular, PM me about it and I'll help you as best I can (god knows I've been into M14s WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too often lately). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fracsid Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Thinking I'm gonna pick up one of these as a parts/backup gun and a new chassis for my Marui M14 DMR project. A problem that's bugging me with my Marui is that the thin metal piece that goes next to the charging handle to (presumably) hold it into the rail/indent thing was too short, so the charging handle couldn't go all the way forward. Because of this and my tendency to rack the charging handle like a moron, it broke; does the G&P DMR have this problem? Also, I know that large batteries are an extremely tight fit in a standard M14 stock, will they fit at all in the DMR stock? Could you put up a link to an HK416 style battery so I know what shape I'm looking for if I pick up a custom battery? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fracsid Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Thinking I'm gonna pick up one of these as a parts/backup gun and a new chassis for my Marui M14 DMR project. A problem that's bugging me with my Marui is that the thin metal piece that goes next to the charging handle to (presumably) hold it into the rail/indent thing was too short, so the charging handle couldn't go all the way forward. Because of this and my tendency to rack the charging handle like a moron, it broke; does the G&P DMR have this problem? Also, I know that large batteries are an extremely tight fit in a standard M14 stock, will they fit at all in the DMR stock? Could you put up a link to an HK416 style battery so I know what shape I'm looking for if I pick up a custom battery? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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