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Tokyo Marui M9A1

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Thanks guys, I was already doing this but coming from single action only guns, it's a little disconcerting not to have a proper thumb safety, I'm sure I'll get used to it mind you :)

 

Has anyone heard of any possibility of companies making upgrade parts for the m9a1?

 

I'm not looking for a metal kit or anything, as this is now going to be my all-year workhorse, but perhaps a threaded barrel/extended tightbore/silencer combo would interest me, maybe some new grips?

 

That's a good q actually, I assume the grip panels are the same fitment as the m9, I know they are weighted. Anyone tried to fit real steel or hogue-esque grips to their m9a1?

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Thanks guys, I was already doing this but coming from single action only guns, it's a little disconcerting not to have a proper thumb safety, I'm sure I'll get used to it mind you :)

 

Has anyone heard of any possibility of companies making upgrade parts for the m9a1?

 

I'm not looking for a metal kit or anything, as this is now going to be my all-year workhorse, but perhaps a threaded barrel/extended tightbore/silencer combo would interest me, maybe some new grips?

 

That's a good q actually, I assume the grip panels are the same fitment as the m9, I know they are weighted. Anyone tried to fit real steel or hogue-esque grips to their m9a1?

 

I'm fairly confident the grips should be fine - I don't think anything has changed from the original design other than the weights. Perhaps some work with a dremel, but I don't think it'll be a huge task.

 

Tightbore wise, the gun already puts out 305-310FPS on a warm day with Green Gas - Chucking an extended tightbore in it is likely to put it around 350, if not higher depending on the length. 

 

Standard tightbore wise, I'm sure Nineball have probably done one as well, but here ya go: 

 

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Precision_Barrels_GBB_Raven_PDI_Standard_Inner_Barrel_for_Tokyo_Marui_M9A1.htm

 

That'll more than likely chuck another 20FPS on it, and you can also fit VSR style hop buckings now - I've had fantastic results from the AIP tan bucking, which is cheap as chips. There's also the good old purple Nineball or a PDI W-Hold, whichever takes your fancy. 

 

Tightbore it, switch out the hop bucking and put .3's in it - It'll match or outdo your primary ;)

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Yeah, I tend to put my thumb on the back of the slide with everything from a 1911 to a Glock. With a plastic-slide TM 1911, you don't want the safety to deform the slide by jamming it into a bad holster.

 

I'd just suggest kydex instead of cordura though as far as pain-free options go.

 

Also, if you're used to 1911s, I'd still advise you decock, then flip the safety on "fire," and then holster. Rather than leaving the weapon cocked as it's going into the holster.

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Hi guys, I've got one of these heading my way soonish, and as a result I was wondering about accessories, namely regarding torches and the railed frame.

 

A friend of mine got his a few months back and bought an Element M3X to go with it. It fit - barely - and with quite a lot of effort to push the thing on as it was a very tight squeeze. We also tried to mount another torch I had lying around, but that didn't go on in the slightest - the rail was far too wide.

 

Has anyone else had these problems? What torches would you recommend? I kind of want an M3 or similar, but I'd rather not shell out the dosh only to find out it won't fit on.

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Never had a problem attaching any of my pistol accessories onto the M9A1's rail - they went on as easy onto the TM's plastic rail as they did onto the KJW M9A1's, so no hassle there. Some Chinese-made optics can be a little out of spec, and the plastic is not as flexible. You can break them in on metal 20mm RIS rails though, which will help make it easier to attach onto the TM.

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Well what surprised me was that my ACM torch fits on every other rail I have including real milspec ones just fine, but not at all on the M9, leading me to believe that the rail is out of spec as too wide.

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Just a short firing video, it's got a nice amount of kick, however not quite enough for my liking, accuracy is of course, fantastic.

 

Used this pistol at a game a few months back where it was around freezing, actually it was snowing for most of the day. It didn't skip a beat, even after carrying around the gassed mags for a few hours. Even locked back after 25-odd rounds.. 

 

Overall, very impressed, however my hand didnt agree with the beretta grip after so many years using 1911s almost exclusively..

 

Cheers.

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Hi guys, I've got one of these heading my way soonish, and as a result I was wondering about accessories, namely regarding torches and the railed frame.

 

A friend of mine got his a few months back and bought an Element M3X to go with it. It fit - barely - and with quite a lot of effort to push the thing on as it was a very tight squeeze. We also tried to mount another torch I had lying around, but that didn't go on in the slightest - the rail was far too wide.

 

Has anyone else had these problems? What torches would you recommend? I kind of want an M3 or similar, but I'd rather not shell out the dosh only to find out it won't fit on.

I've had that happen with an Element M3 on a KJW M9, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's the torch, not the weapon's rail.

 

Personally, I'd just try to get a better light. The Inforce APL is about $110, the Streamlight TLR-1s have dropped below $100, at least for US consumer. Surefire is probably still a bit out there as far as prices go, but IMO, the M9A1s look better wearing the TLR-1 and x300 than the Insight M3 copies as well.

Edited by John_234

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I've had that happen with an Element M3 on a KJW M9, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's the torch, not the weapon's rail.

 

Personally, I'd just try to get a better light. The Inforce APL is about $110, the Streamlight TLR-1s have dropped below $100, at least for US consumer. Surefire is probably still a bit out there as far as prices go, but IMO, the M9A1s look better wearing the TLR-1 and x300 than the Insight M3 copies as well.

I actually hate you right now for showing me that Surefire tac-light...I'm about to be poor :(

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I've had that happen with an Element M3 on a KJW M9, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's the torch, not the weapon's rail.

 

Personally, I'd just try to get a better light. The Inforce APL is about $110, the Streamlight TLR-1s have dropped below $100, at least for US consumer. Surefire is probably still a bit out there as far as prices go, but IMO, the M9A1s look better wearing the TLR-1 and x300 than the Insight M3 copies as well.

 

Aye, it's as you say. After it arrived, I had a play with a variety of different weapon lights, including three different brands of M3 and M3X, and all bar the ACM one fit. No skin off my teeth as I wanted a new torch anyway.

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I actually hate you right now for showing me that Surefire tac-light...I'm about to be poor :(

 

Aye, it's as you say. After it arrived, I had a play with a variety of different weapon lights, including three different brands of M3 and M3X, and all bar the ACM one fit. No skin off my teeth as I wanted a new torch anyway.

 

Again, the Streamlight is great as well and in the US you can snag them for less than $100.

 

One thing about the Surefire - the x300 seems momentarily discontinued due to some kind of product revision, leaving only the pricier x300 Ultra, so I'd probably wait on that.

 

I really personally love the Inforce APL, which uses one CR123A instead of two, making for a thinner gun. Priced just a tad more than the TLR-1, itsalso polymer bodied and shorter than most lights, which makes it lightweight, and a perfect fit for guns like the Glock 19 I use as well as the somewhat bulky 92 family.

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Decocker on mine now only works if I use the lever on the right hand side.

 

Any ideas? Literally only takes a tiny press on the right hand side to decock if I use the left hand lever first.

Edited by Krydel

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Decocker on mine now only works if I use the lever on the right hand side.

 

Any ideas? Literally only takes a tiny press on the right hand side to decock if I use the left hand lever first.

It's probably one of two things:

 

- the hex screw that unites the two-pieces of the safety decocker  is a bit loose (don't overtighten it).

- The piece that the decocker on the slide depresses is worn.

 

Did you by any chance rack the slide with the decocker down?

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I imagine I have probably done that at some point - what would that do? Hex screw doesnt seem to be loose if its the one you see move when you use the decocker?

 

Edit: Hell, ive done it a bunch of times. Is it a part I can replace easily?

Edited by Krydel

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Not really unless you have a friend in japan willing to contact marui for the part.

 

For now I'd suggest just decocking with the right side.

 

Cheers.

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It's probably one of two things:

 

- the hex screw that unites the two-pieces of the safety decocker  is a bit loose (don't overtighten it).

- The piece that the decocker on the slide depresses is worn.

 

Did you by any chance rack the slide with the decocker down?

What exactly does charging the slide with the safety on do? It's a rather routine thing to do to the gun...

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What exactly does charging the slide with the safety on do? It's a rather routine thing to do to the gun...

With the safety...yes, with the decocker....no.

 

The decocker on the slide-mounted decocker of the berettas has to push down a small part, not really designed for racking the slide with the decocker down.

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You see the black part on the right of the frame rails that looks like it can be pushed down? (looking from the rear) that's the part that decocks the hammer.

 

As you can see it's squared off in the rear meaning it's going to have trouble when the slide comes forward with the decocker down.

 

If you have racked the slide a fair bit with the decocker down, that part should show a fair amount of wear.

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With the safety...yes, with the decocker....no.

 

The decocker on the slide-mounted decocker of the berettas has to push down a small part, not really designed for racking the slide with the decocker down.

 

 

You see the black part on the right of the frame rails that looks like it can be pushed down? (looking from the rear) that's the part that decocks the hammer.

 

As you can see it's squared off in the rear meaning it's going to have trouble when the slide comes forward with the decocker down.

 

If you have racked the slide a fair bit with the decocker down, that part should show a fair amount of wear.

The safety IS the decokcer on the 92F.

 

I just ask, because in real steel, you'd want to put on the safety as you unload the gun and such, so it's a relatively common thing to do. Kinda odd it wears down the gun so, but I guess I'll have to avoid it when I get mine.

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The safety IS the decokcer on the 92F.

 

I just ask, because in real steel, you'd want to put on the safety as you unload the gun and such, so it's a relatively common thing to do. Kinda odd it wears down the gun so, but I guess I'll have to avoid it when I get mine.

I meant it as in a frame-mounted safety that are just safeties (think of the 5-7, usp,  or even the sig p938).

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I meant it as in a frame-mounted safety that are just safeties (think of the 5-7, usp,  or even the sig p938).

Well, the safety is also the decocker on the USP... The Taurus PT92 Beretta clones also have a frame mounted decocker/safety.

 

You get the idea though. The decocker being on and the gun being racked is kinda normal in real steel, hence the surprise.

Edited by John_234

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My point exactly, the decocker  on the usp springs back up so you cannot really rack the slide with the decocker on.

 

The way marui did the decocker on both the px4 and the m9a1 is very sensitive to tolerances, for example the play on my ShootersDesign px4 slide allows a bit too much space between the slide decocker and the piece I mentioned so it doesn't really work well. This also means that warped plastic slides and worn out decockers may cause trouble on the long run....

 

If I ever get my hands on one of those m9a1 with faulty decockers I'll try to fix it and report my results.

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My point exactly, the decocker  on the usp springs back up so you cannot really rack the slide with the decocker on.

 

The way marui did the decocker on both the px4 and the m9a1 is very sensitive to tolerances, for example the play on my ShootersDesign px4 slide allows a bit too much space between the slide decocker and the piece I mentioned so it doesn't really work well. This also means that warped plastic slides and worn out decockers may cause trouble on the long run....

 

If I ever get my hands on one of those m9a1 with faulty decockers I'll try to fix it and report my results.

On my Marui PX4 I never had problem cocking the weapon with safety on, however after I installed the Crusader slide it won't return fully(it stucks almost at the very end of its travel) with safety on because the slide is closer to the frame.

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See what I mean when I said "very sensitive to tolerances"?

 

Oh well. The px4 decocking system is a bit more tolerant with racking the slide with the safety on since it's kind of rounded on both ends.

 

I still wouldn't recommend it.

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