renegadecow Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Got around to making the trigger. Used a grinder to get it into shape. And made the trigger bracket out of stainless steel sheet. Made one first out of galvanized iron but broke it. Cut off the trigger, drilled a hole for the transfer bar to go on and a slotted hole on the trigger casing for it to go through. Still have to make the transfer bar itself which should be easy, but I still need to fine tune the trigger bracket position and shape. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 Looking more closely at the JG BAR-10 mag, I found it possible to make the new mag almost entirely out of the old mag. Basically it's composed of the catch part and the last half section of the bb channel. The original mag is single stack so I widened out the channel to double and used the spring on an MP7 AEP mag. The segmented follower itself is made from the lower half of the BAR-10 mag and the upper part of the MP7. It holds exactly 20 bbs. The spring is held in just by a pin right now and I intend to make a cover for it. Also made the transfer bar. It's just a 1mm thick spring wire and still have to make retention clips for it (out of screws) to secure it but it does the job. Will also need to remove trigger slop with springs and adjustable pre/over travel screws. Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted January 22, 2013 Report Share Posted January 22, 2013 Man you're doing an awesome job.... I have a Sun Project XP100, but not the limited version you pointed out at the beginning of this thread. This is mine, a size comparison with 2 TM Desert Eagles! Along with my SP M40XB Wolf Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Man, that is one sweet pistol (and rifle!). I imagine making a custom wood stock for that would be easier as the mechanism isn't too far from a standard Maruzen APS2 of which I believe they share internals with. It's just sad that so many cool guns were made back in the day (didn't get to reach them) by companies that have otherwise folded up today; Garage Gun Works "Swedish K" AEG, MGC Calico, and Maruzen KG9 to name a few. Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 It is sad that stuff is gone. It's a good rule that if you ever see one for sale to snap it up like a trap door spider. Link to post Share on other sites
Kenworth W900 Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Hey RC, more great progress mate One thing though, avoid scrimping on the internals if you can. I am referring specifically to the sears - having had a lot of experience with them in various forms over the years I would highly suggest that you shell out and buy a 90 degree trigger system. I can't stress that enough. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Really? I'm just running a stock spring in it though and thought a steel trigger sear is enough. edit: Heeey, ACTION zero trigger for only $88! Only I'm not sure if it's gonna fit with the larger front section compared to the original as the XP-100 grip is pretty high. Can anyone provide a pic of the two together, a regular 45 and 90 degree system I mean? Link to post Share on other sites
Kenworth W900 Posted January 23, 2013 Report Share Posted January 23, 2013 Oh wait, if you're running a standard spring, then no worries - I just assumed you were upgrading it. In that case then I am fully behind you sticking with the stock trigger mech because you are now sure that the current setup fits. Whereas an aftermarket set might not. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Well, stock JG spring that is which does about 430fps I think with the brake removed. But yeah, only seen people go with zero triggers for 500 and above springs. Will direct that money into a Laylax scope mount base instead as the stock one looks kinda naff and for some reason is only held in by two screws instead of four. Link to post Share on other sites
jimmiroquai Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Edgi's 45 deg tool steel sears haven't failed me in 3 years heavy usage so that's another option. Amazing job on the mag. That just opens up a whole lot of doors ww2 custom rifle wise. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Got to start on the stock. They're supposed to be 4 layers only I've just finished cutting out 2 for today. Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I thought you were going to mould the whole thing in epoxy/sawdust. Is this the blank? Or are you going to coat this one in the epoxy mix to save weight? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Gonna coat it. I'm just making one so no real need to make molds. And it's with PVA wood glue, not epoxy, but I'm guessing that will work too. Link to post Share on other sites
Ghost-86 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 The only problem with pva is there mite be a chance it would stay white when set if the coat is uneven to be honest i would stick with epoxy it more durable Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 RC it's a nice and unique pistol but I don't know what type are the internals, they are not like the SP M40 that's for sure. The spring is too thin, it looks like an AEG spring. The trigger is the same as the SP M40 so does the cocking handle. I might make a grip for it but for now I have other project in front of me. Wolf Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 The only problem with pva is there mite be a chance it would stay white when set if the coat is uneven It's not gonna be just pva but with a mixture of sawdust in it. Reason I came up with it in the first place is the muck I have to clean off my workbench every so often which is primarily sawdust and wood glue and I find it tougher to get rid of than steel filled epoxy. From tests, as long as I mix it up well it sets even up to 8mm depth but there is the shrinkage issue which isn't all too much a problem as I'll only be needing 1-2mm. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 A bit more work done. Shaped the trigger and made a spring for it, bent the trigger bracket to proper alignment, and put in a pre-travel adjustment screw. You have to adjust the pre-travel screw on the actual trigger/sear casing as well and the one on the new trigger removes slack. I don't think I'll make an over-travel adjustment anymore, but if I did I'd just put a grub screw at the back of the trigger guard. Trigger breaks at about 2lbs with no discernible point when it will break. Just a smooth squeeze and bang. Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Looking very promising... Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Thanks! Got more done today. It's slow progress but I can only set aside 2 hours work a day at most. The other 2 planks cut out and glued to halves and routed out some of the bedding. I'll need to fit it to the action first before gutting out the space for the other inner bits. Link to post Share on other sites
ToaDi Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Looking good so far, but then your projects are always eye openers Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 Thanks! Bedded most of the stock this morning. The tapered section was a pain to fit. Wish I could do more but I forgot this marine plywood kinda burns the lungs (must be the resin in it) and I've been sanding it without a respirator, to which, I need to buy a new respirator and spend the rest of this Saturday on what I should have been doing in the first place (absolutely nothing). Link to post Share on other sites
ToaDi Posted February 2, 2013 Report Share Posted February 2, 2013 The stuff is nasty, and yeah they use a resin to bind the layers together, but you can normally get away with a plain dust mask Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Silly me. I've forgotten that a long time ago I made a cartridge adapter for my GP-5 gas mask for fiberglass work. Put that on and got back on track. Routed the space for the rest of the inner bits. Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted February 5, 2013 Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 Looking nice. Is it to be all wood or will you be adding nylon for the end cap and diamonds or going with paint? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2013 It will all be clad with the sawdust+glue mixture. The end cap will simply be stained or painted black as the real one is just painted which is a cheap way of doing it. Traditionally end pieces on hunting rifles were a separate piece made of horn or ebony. Grip texture I'm not yet too sure about. While I have the tools to do checkering, I'm not sure if the sawdust+glue mixture is ideal for it or if it's just gonna gum up my checkering heads. An alternate would be stippling. The diamond inlay (white) I'm not too sure about either. Traditionally they're mother of pearl. On the real XP-100 I think it's just plastic to which I could probably use a piece of plastic folder. Link to post Share on other sites
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