WarMonger Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 (edited) No one sells an SPW heat shield, aside from FN, and they don't sell it seperate from the gun. I can make them now, for the right price... Here it is, my finished SPW, just need star to release that damn 100rnd box. its not exactly like the SPW, but its pretty close. the real SPW has no AR mag port, can't do away with that. And i just can't part with my carry handle. Edited February 10, 2006 by WarMonger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted February 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Great work, WarMonger. I might just have to have you put me on the list for one of those heat shields. But then I'd need my receiver milled too... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hillslam Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Gundrosen, here's the dimensions on the CA's charging bolt slide channel. I assumed you wanted inner dimensions so I measured those. Also length. See attached pic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 I could come up with one that clamps to the barrel like the stock heatshield if your interested. It doesnt neccessarily have to be all just holes either. I could mill slots and whatnot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bloodhound Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 No one sells an SPW heat shield, aside from FN, and they don't sell it seperate from the gun. I can make them now, for the right price... Here it is, my finished SPW, just need star to release that damn 100rnd box. its not exactly like the SPW, but its pretty close. the real SPW has no AR mag port, can't do away with that. And i just can't part with my carry handle. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Great job. Looks just like the real thing. except for the carry handle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
eldelphi Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Yeh Warmonger, that heatshield looks good, man. I can see that u like modifying your gun becasue u enjoy the challenge of doing so. Neccessity IS the mother of invention..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hillslam Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 (edited) i own a star m249 mkII, i've stock spring in l2 position, i'm satisfied with this replica, my mates scares only with his sound... but i've little question, it's normal that a 8.4 1.700 nica battery only shoots for 2500round? also i'm looking for new one, what do you recommend in your experience? 9.6 or 8.4 with stock parts as i mentioned and 3300 or above will be ok? Not sure anyone responded to you yet sabbandija, so I will. I've got a CA, but with your spring in the L2 position the energies should be near same asa stock CA. As I recall (been awhile since I was stock) 2500 rounds on a 1700mah sounds a tad low. I'm trying to recall accurately, since its been awhile since I've used my 8.4v, but it depends on alot of factors: how long your bursts are, how warm out it is, how old the battery is, etc. Regardless, I'd recommend going to a 9.6v 3000mah or more (mah not voltage). I've skirmished an entire day and over 9,000 rounds thru that and the battery showed no signs of dieing (with a spring well over forum limits). Edited February 10, 2006 by Hillslam Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sabbandija Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 ok, thanks for answering, i figure that 9.6v can give me more rof, but i'm afraid about gears.. i don't know if they are reinforced, anywhere 3000mah or above are Nimh type, no problems with this replica i suppose. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Gundrosen, here's the dimensions on the CA's charging bolt slide channel. I assumed you wanted inner dimensions so I measured those. Also length. See attached pic. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thanks, will try to make mine work now That heatshield is looking very nice warmonger, you should consider making these for sale, I would buy one if the price is right Why is this thread moved and the CA thread still in general discussion? It was alot easier when it was in general Quote Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted February 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Hmm, so this is where the thread went. I'm not sure why it was moved either. It's not really a review as much as it's a discussion about every aspect of the gun. The bulk of the thread isn't even a discussion of the review related posts either, it's a discussion of the gun in general. Having it here will only reduce exposure and make it harder for people to find answers, which will probably result in more new threads even though the answers could be found in this one. I also notice my other similarly themed threads remain in the general section. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Hmm, so this is where the thread went. I'm not sure why it was moved either. It's not really a review as much as it's a discussion about every aspect of the gun. The bulk of the thread isn't even a discussion of the review related posts either, it's a discussion of the gun in general. Having it here will only reduce exposure and make it harder for people to find answers, which will probably result in more new threads even though the answers could be found in this one. I also notice my other similarly themed threads remain in the general section. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You should contact an admin and ask them to move it back Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EricthePincussion Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 (edited) Read all 41 pages... *phew* Thanks for the informative and well written reviews and experience with the 249 For those of us who are still trying to decide whether to buy floor tiles or a Star M249 would people mind posting: a) the number of rounds put through their SAW so far, ' state of tune of gun, c) wear and tear owing to a) & ' d) breakage of internals also due to a) & ' e) parts required to fix c) & d) f) damage resulting from "user error" to give us poor sots currently without a SAW an idea of the longevity of the gun. (got rid of my TOP 249 ages ago, best decision I ever made!!!) Many Thanks Edited February 10, 2006 by EricthePincussion Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grum Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Anyone noticed that the motor gives off a large amount of carbon residue? Star's hop rubbers are very soft, my 249 has torn its hop rubber after probably less than 10k rounds..... The gun does make an awesome noise with the springguide pressed further into the gearbox however, with an m100 it made a nice loud pop noise, and brought it up to my local site limits! Although it would appear that the m100 and stock star spring are of the same power roughly, just ones is irregular pitch, the other isnt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Read all 41 pages... *phew* Thanks for the informative and well written reviews and experience with the 249 For those of us who are still trying to decide whether to buy floor tiles or a Star M249 would people mind posting: a) the number of rounds put through their SAW so far, ' state of tune of gun, c) wear and tear owing to a) & ' d) breakage of internals also due to a) & ' e) parts required to fix c) & d) f) damage resulting from "user error" to give us poor sots currently without a SAW an idea of the longevity of the gun. (got rid of my TOP 249 ages ago, best decision I ever made!!!) Many Thanks <{POST_SNAPBACK}> A) I'm guessing I'm somewhere around 30 000 rounds. New more powerful spring(slightly above forum rules) C) None so far D) None so far E) Dont think anything is required to fix, everything holds up, but I have replaced my grip(didnt like the stock one), handguard(CA), heatshield(CA), rear sight(if you plan on using the sight of the gun I recommend buying a CA rear sight as the stock one is non-adjustable) and I have a stock waiting to be installed(a gulf-war RS stock which needs modification) F) My gas collar broke of when I fell with it. I will have to replace it with a metal one as the old one broke in two and I lost one of the parts Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EricthePincussion Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Carbon residue will have come from the motor brushes (I hope!), and if the motor is standard and not a custom one, it should be straightforward to replace them when they wear out. Is the motor the same size as the TM/Systema short type motors? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grum Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 As far as i know yes its a standard short type motor, anyone tried the replacement metal gearboxes yet? just wondering if they sound any different? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jnr4817 Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 quick Q. someoen posted earlier about not using irregular pitch springs in there gun, because they didnt like them. there was no reason ever given whyit is bad to use irregualr pitch springs. i was wondering does it have to do with the cpmression of the spring. if so, will l1 vs l2 on the star have an effect of the spring performance? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 i could use some opinions from you guys. what do you guys think is a fair asking price for this heatshield? i'm no buisnessman i really can't decide. keep in mind, and ANGS metal heatshiled is like 125 bucks. and mine is handmade, i can't just stamp them out in a factory. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bloodhound Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 i could use some opinions from you guys. what do you guys think is a fair asking price for this heatshield? i'm no buisnessman i really can't decide. keep in mind, and ANGS metal heatshiled is like 125 bucks. and mine is handmade, i can't just stamp them out in a factory. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Heres some help. 1) how much did the materials cost 2) How many hours did it take/ how much effort Tell me these and I can judge a fair price, knowing that its home made it will be more expensive. You dicide the price though im just offering some help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 First of all, who the hell moved this thread, they ought to be *badgeress*-slapped, it took me forever to find it!!! this is bull-*beep*!! well, mine took three trys to get the heat shield part right. Drilling all those holes in straight lines was a pain in the *albatross*, it took several tries. It also took a lot of time to get those tabs to fit right. of course with all the trial and error out of the way, I could make more much easier and faster. I'd say i spent a good 5 or 6 hours messing around with it. I bet i could finish another one in about half that. I have a supply of materials at work, it wouldn't really cost me anything except my time and effort. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bloodhound Posted February 11, 2006 Report Share Posted February 11, 2006 (edited) First of all, who the hell moved this thread, they ought to be *badgeress*-slapped, it took me forever to find it!!! this is bull-*beep*!! well, mine took three trys to get the heat shield part right. Drilling all those holes in straight lines was a pain in the *albatross*, it took several tries. It also took a lot of time to get those tabs to fit right. of course with all the trial and error out of the way, I could make more much easier and faster. I'd say i spent a good 5 or 6 hours messing around with it. I bet i could finish another one in about half that. I have a supply of materials at work, it wouldn't really cost me anything except my time and effort. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I would say $90 - $120 range. Because it sounds like it was hard to get it just right . If you had it clip on like the heat shield the gun comes with, people would probobly buy it more because they wont have to drill their gun. Edited February 11, 2006 by Bloodhound Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 i can make them like that too, I've already thought about how i'm gonna do it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bloodhound Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 i can make them like that too, I've already thought about how i'm gonna do it. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> cool Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deki Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 Well, since no one found the solution for m249 not working in cold temperatures i decided (finally got some free time) to take a closer look by myself. I suspected the gearbox to be the issue so i took it out and placed it outside for one hour to cool down to 0˙C Luckily i found the problem right away. What I found out is that nozzle was not moving at all! I pushed it in (simulating the cycle of the gears) and nozzle stayed in that position. It took a lot of effort to pull it back with my hand. After 10-20 moves in and out, the tappet plate spring was able to do that movement forward. That was the cause of low fps of first 20-50 rounds in cold temperature I replaced stock nozzle with Guarder G36 one (had to cut it for about 1mm, to achieve the same lenght. I also wanted to replace the cylinderhead (prometheus v3), but i found out that the tappet plate is wider, so no new cylinder head for my 249. I tested it on field yesterday and it worked like a charm (approx 1˙C outside). I finally got a chance to defend the whole flank with my M249 Hope this helps star m249 owners with the same problem. The rest of you not having that problem, just check if your nozzle is moving freely. Deki Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 What I found out is that nozzle was not moving at all! I pushed it in (simulating the cycle of the gears) and nozzle stayed in that position. It took a lot of effort to pull it back with my hand. After 10-20 moves in and out, the tappet plate spring was able to do that movement forward. That was the cause of low fps of first 20-50 rounds in cold temperature <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Interesting. I found this to be the case on my 249 as well and wound up lightly sanding and polishing the brass nozzle on my cylinder head to reduce the outer diameter slightly. The end result allowed the plastic nozzle to move freely on the cylinder head's nozzle. Sounds like you approached it a different way. Good work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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