teetee Posted January 26, 2006 Report Share Posted January 26, 2006 (edited) Lesson time! HELPFUL STUFF! My anemic post on the subject of adding a rail: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...51entry571751 <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Now if only I had known of that earlier. Many thanks static, so much easier than going page by page using Ctrl-F. Still much to learn at only 250posts on Arnies Edited January 26, 2006 by teetee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sure Shot Posted January 26, 2006 Report Share Posted January 26, 2006 I just got finished mounting my rail.Its a rail from a m4 flat top receiver.Its pretty simple and basic.Below are the pics.Sorry but my camera sucks at taking close up pics.But you should be able to get the idea.Perfect of rth aimpoint I ordered. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted January 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2006 G&P M249 RAS Installation Please note, this mod is not for the faint of heart. You will be irreversibly modifying your (rather expensive) gun. If you screw up, it's on you (not me) and you will be sad. Only attempt this if you are confident and fully understand what you're doing before you do it. If done properly the results are very good in my opinion, and well worth the sacrifice. Parts needed: G&P M249 RAS Kit 3x M6x30 Screws Tools Needed: Dremel or Saw Appropriate File(s) Vise or Clamps Screwdrivers/Allen Keys Note: I believe the G&G or CA RAS could work but you would need to toss their mounting 'hooks' and fabricate up a mounting plate to get the best result. You can get aluminum strips from many hardware stores (or on the internet) so I'm sure you can come up with something if you're devoted to one of them or can't get a G&P kit. More work will be involved of course, but with enough time and effort and skill (and money) you can do anything really. G&P RAS Kit. Included is the RAS itself, the mounting plate, four screws, two KAC style grip plates, and a KAC style vertical foregrip. Here's the RAS and the mounting plate pictured with the screws lined up and oriented with the holes. Note the second from the left is smaller and goes in from the bottom. Guess what? We won't be using these screws so set them aside. To get started, take off the existing grip panels using a small philips head screwdriver. You can see the screws here. I'd take the barrel off and the gearbox out while you're at it. All that is discussed earlier in this thread. However, if you can't figure out how to do it on your own, this mod is probably not something you should be trying anyway. Here's the body with the grip plates removed and the mounting plate and RAS pictured. Were going to remove that whole block that extends below the main body and replace it with the RAS. This is IRREVERSIBLE. Be sure you really want to do this before continuing. Use a dremel or saw or other appropriate tool to cut the bottom block off. I used a combination of my dremel and a small saw and followed up with some filing. Even with the block removed the body feels very solid. Here's what it will look like when you get the block cut off (still rough, haven't filed it yet). Here's the mounting plate held up to the hole. It's going to go inside the body, it and the RAS will 'sandwich' the body holding the RAS in place. Here is the RAS test-fitted to the body. It's pretty snug, the mounting plate won't have to do much to secure the RAS in place. Here is a view inside the body. We'll need to reduce the height of the middle crosspiece to the height of the forward one. Here's the mounting plate in place (sort-of). It's too wide, we need to file it down a bit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted January 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2006 (edited) We can see the RAS through the hole in the bottom. It needs to be lined up such that the holes are clear of the crosspiece. We don't care about the hole for the smaller screw, only the large ones. The mounting plate clamped in my vise. Using a file, I carefully removed material evenly and equally from each side. The holes need to stay in the middle. Measure first (twice) and mark the plate so you have a general idea how much to take off (so you don't go too far). Take off material a bit at a time, stopping to test fit along the way. You must remove only what is necessary for this to work the best. The plate is going to serve as a structural component of the body once installed. It should be a snug fit from side to side in the body. The body after I finished filing it down. A close up of the body. Test-fitting the plate The plate in place. The plate in place as viewed form the bottom. The screws in place. I had to slide the plate slightly forward to clear the center crosspiece. Don't over-tightern the screws, you'll deform the plate. Just tighten them 'enough' and do so evenly. Use blue locktight if you feel the need. The plate is only on two crosspieces, the front and center. If you wanted to you could file down the back one and adjust things to utilize it. It isn't necessary in my opinion though. All that's left is to put the pannels and grip on the RAS. All done! I chose to leave the mount tube off the gun as you can see. I also removed the carry handle assembly and the heat shield for the time being. I'm also using my harris bipod with KAC QD mount rather than the normal bipod as you can see. That's it! I've used the gun in a skirmish since installing the RAS and I'm very happy with the result. The vertical foregrip helps the ergonomics immensely in my opinion. And, there's just enough rail space to comforatbly mount the grip and my bipod. The RAS/body connection is very sturdy, the gun still feels very solid, and really aside from the irreversibility of the installation I see no downside to it. I was worried that I'd need to go to extreme measures to ensure the integrity of the body to my satisfaction after removing so much material but I really didn't. If you want an RAS and have the skills and tools (and balls) necessary to do it, it will work great. Larger versions of the photos can be found in my album here. Edited January 27, 2006 by staticzero Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 27, 2006 Report Share Posted January 27, 2006 Very nice guide, but I dont think I will try this myself anytime soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted January 27, 2006 Report Share Posted January 27, 2006 i really should get off my *albatross* and make that SPW heat shield. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
evil Posted January 28, 2006 Report Share Posted January 28, 2006 Just a couple of pics for all you M249 lovers...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 28, 2006 Report Share Posted January 28, 2006 Just a couple of pics for all you M249 lovers...... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Looking good, but I dont really fancy the laser Quote Link to post Share on other sites
powelly Posted January 28, 2006 Report Share Posted January 28, 2006 Does anyone know how much the spare gearboxes are going to be? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wupjak Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 this one's on wgcshop. http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...49RGB_srch_star m249&PHPSESSID=798ef32168ab41c781b393c36bdd7707 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 it doesnt look like those complete gearboxes are even listed on thier site anymore. Maybe they realized the Stock gearbox is quite sufficient and decided to move on to other things. I wish they would move on to the 100rnd box mag, which has now moved down to the bottom of the list under all the hideous l85s, and the complete line of HK weapons. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boonie Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 this review made me buy the gun and i am more than happy, but a few questions static, would the ras screw into the sides of the gun without modding the receiver, and does the ras let the use of the original bipod the only thing i want is a vert grip for handling cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 What precision barrel will fit a M249 PARA? I am thinking of getting a PARA flashider and stock and use my M249 as a PARA when I'm using my norwegian kit And when it is a PARA I want it to be more accurate, to make up for the short barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BakaBox Posted January 29, 2006 Report Share Posted January 29, 2006 it doesnt look like those complete gearboxes are even listed on thier site anymore. Maybe they realized the Stock gearbox is quite sufficient and decided to move on to other things. I wish they would move on to the 100rnd box mag, which has now moved down to the bottom of the list under all the hideous l85s, and the complete line of HK weapons. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> But the Star gearbox is perfect for custom models... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sure Shot Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 (edited) Ok I finally got a chance to skirmish with it today.There were 2 SAWs on the field today,Mine and a CA.The CA died in the first game.Mines worked the whole day(got a few kills under its belt). I did have some problems and this is where I need help. When I arrived,I got out and started shooting and the bbs were just getting lobbed,but after about 30 shots it picks up to its regular range(this happened all day,every time I stopped shooting for more than a few minutes).Can anyone tell me why? Also(These two may be related to the same problem)No matter how much I adjusted the hop-up theres no change in the bbs flight path,once again can anyone tell me why? I also tried to take out my gear box to look at the hop-up,I took out the two screws and tried to slide it out but it only moved about a 1/4 inch,and again does anyone know why? Any help is greatly appreciated $ure $hot Edited January 30, 2006 by Sure Shot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 (edited) Ok I finally got a chance to skirmish with it today.There were 2 SAWs on the field today,Mine and a CA.The CA died in the first game.Mines worked the whole day(got a few kills under its belt). I did have some problems and this is where I need help. When I arrived,I got out and started shooting and the bbs were just getting lobbed,but after about 30 shots it picks up to its regular range(this happened all day,every time I stopped shooting for more than a few minutes).Can anyone tell me why? Also(These two may be related to the same problem)No matter how much I adjusted the hop-up theres no change in the bbs flight path,once again can anyone tell me why? I also tried to take out my gear box to look at the hop-up,I took out the two screws and tried to slide it out but it only moved about a 1/4 inch,and again does anyone know why? Any help is greatly appreciated $ure $hot <{POST_SNAPBACK}> others are having this same problem, people are thinking because of the cold weather, but i have no idea. If you feel brave enough, maybe you can take apart your gearbox and clean all the stock lube out, and use some good stuff that covers a wider temperature range and maybe solve this mystery for everyone. About the hop-up, the screw turns very tightly i'm sure you noticed, it also takes quite a bit of turning (clockwise)until it comes into effect on a brand new star, keep making quarter turns and shooting the gun and you should eventually notice it start working, if not its probably defective. You may just not be tightening the screw enough. Also when it does finally come into effect its very sensitive at least on my gun. don't turn it too much. As for the gearbox, Theres a small metal trigger lever on the bottom, you must hold down the guns trigger while sliding the gear box back or you'll bend it, possibly break it. I didn't realize this and bent mine a little, now my gun still fires with the safety on because the trigger is so sensitive now. Just slide the gearbox back far enough to get the nozzle out of the hopup chamber then lift it out the top. Also make sure you hold the trigger while pushing the gearbox back in. Edited January 30, 2006 by WarMonger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sure Shot Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 About the hop-up, the screw turns very tightly i'm sure you noticed, it also takes quite a bit of turning (clockwise)until it comes into effect on a brand new star, keep making quarter turns and shooting the gun and you should eventually notice it start working, if not its probably defective. You may just not be tightening the screw enough. Also when it does finally come into effect its very sensitive at least on my gun. don't turn it too much. As for the gearbox, Theres a small metal trigger lever on the bottom, you must hold down the guns trigger while sliding the gear box back or you'll bend it, possibly break it. I didn't realize this and bent mine a little, now my gun still fires with the safety on because the trigger is so sensitive now. Just slide the gearbox back far enough to get the nozzle out of the hopup chamber then lift it out the top. Also make sure you hold the trigger while pushing the gearbox back in. I tried turning the screw as much both ways and there was absoutly now difference. Thanks for the gear box info. I`m gonna try switching the hop up with a guarder bucking.I saw Statics review on how to take out the inner barrel and hop up.I got all of the top stuff off but is there something in the front that has to come off?and does the gear box have to come out to do this also? Sorry for all the questions,Im just trying to get every thing right to extend the life of the gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 (edited) You don't HAVE to take out the gearbox, but it might be a good idea just to keep the nozzle from possibly being damaged. If you have all the stuff off the top of the gun, you can pull the four screws out of sides and bottom of the gun right behind the gas regulator on the front, and pull the whole barrel assembly out. Edited January 30, 2006 by WarMonger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grum Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 Gundrosen, did you managed to fit the CA rear sight? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gundrosen Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 Gundrosen, did you managed to fit the CA rear sight? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Still hasnt arrived, it was sent on friday because a mistake. Should be here today or tommorow Will post pics when I get it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ColDaz Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 Hmm, after reading the above post by staticzero; is there no RIS/RAS kit out there that will fit the STAR M249 easier? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WarMonger Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 (edited) Hmm, after reading the above post by staticzero; is there no RIS/RAS kit out there that will fit the STAR M249 easier? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> nope, you've got to cut that box section off the bottom of the reciever with either g+p, or the g+g kit. Its really not that bad, the material is really nice to work with, just gotta be careful not to overheat it and melt it too much while cutting. Edited January 30, 2006 by WarMonger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sure Shot Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 (edited) If you have all the stuff off the top of the gun, you can pull the four screws out of sides and bottom of the gun right behind the gas regulator on the front, and pull the whole barrel assembly out. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Im sorry,im still a little confused.I did exactly what it says to do on the airsoftGI review on how to take out the hop up but thats all I did,Nothing else.And it still didnt move so what else has to come off to remove the outer barrel/inner barrel/hop up?Im thinking the pin in the front sight? Thanks again $ure $hot Edited January 30, 2006 by Sure Shot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted January 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 (edited) static, would the ras screw into the sides of the gun without modding the receiver, and does the ras let the use of the original bipod the only thing i want is a vert grip for handling cheers Dan <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You could screw it in to the bottom block I suppose. It would look wrong and any vertical grip mounted to it would be well below the plane of the pistol grip, I don't think it would be too comfortable. You can still use the bipod with the RAS when installed my way but there is no retainer to keep it up included with the G&P. Even if you had a retainer you couldn't use it with the pistol grip in place, you have to use the zip tie slider method. Refer to Thrasher's post here: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...ndpost&p=515134 Personally I think the Harris bipod on a QD mount is a better solution regardless, especially on a Para. You'll see these pics which illustrate this method: http://web.axelero.hu/szlejer2/249-spw.jpg http://web.axelero.hu/szlejer2/249-slide2.jpg http://web.axelero.hu/szlejer2/249-slide.jpg What precision barrel will fit a M249 PARA? I am thinking of getting a PARA flashider and stock and use my M249 as a PARA when I'm using my norwegian kit And when it is a PARA I want it to be more accurate, to make up for the short barrel. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> An M4 length inner barrel would be appropriate. Go with a Prometheus. Hmm, after reading the above post by staticzero; is there no RIS/RAS kit out there that will fit the STAR M249 easier? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Nope. Im sorry,im still a little confused.I did exactly what it says to do on the airsoftGI review on how to take out the hop up but thats all I did,Nothing else.And it still didnt move so what else has to come off to remove the outer barrel/inner barrel/hop up?Im thinking the pin in the front sight? Thanks again $ure $hot <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You need to remove the fake barrel release lever, then the screw under it, then you remove the screws on the sides (one on each side), then the feed cover and the block it attaches to can come off (my guess is this is probably what you didn't do), and then finally the barrel assembly can be pulled forward and off. The inner barrel/hop up unit simply slide out of the barrel assembly after that. Edited January 30, 2006 by staticzero Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sure Shot Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 Yeah Ive got all that off.Do I need to remove the pin in the front sight? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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