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G&G L85 reveiw


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nope but one or two pistons going out of how many , now did you have a purpose to posting or just here to abuse ?

 

all guns faulty when 2 of all that we know of had proken pistons ? both by mates ,bought at the same time from the same place !

now try and tell me that can be seen as typical of the series !

especially when no other L85 has had this problem

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Mine came today, and although i had a wee bit of trouble at first(charging handle was jammed showing the hop, and i had trouble putting it back together after field stripping it(i had somehow warped the body so it didnt fit back together) i managed to fix them all within a few minutes using no toos at all(squeezed the body together to get it back together, just shot it with the recoild bolt enabled and the jam was fixed).

That sounds like the same thign that happened to me.

 

It seems like the receiver is stamped out of steel and the tabs in the lower which the upper slides into aren't very well defined. You need to make sure the receiver slots together properly for a little while.

The first symptom of this IS the bolt not sliding properly.

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Unbelieveable! Instead of sharing his "knowledge" to the public, SilentSerpent decided to negrep me for this post!

It's quite normal for almost all batteries to give higher readings on voltage meters if there's no load and they are fully charged. Put a bigass resistor to the poles and check the voltage again.

A quote from the message he left me:

i guess you never learned V=IR, bigger resistor means bigger voltage, not smaller. electrical resistance isn't the same as actually loading the motor. not flaming you, just really peeves me when people don't check stuff! If people go giving out duff advice to do with electrics, it's only a matter of time before some idiot covers himself in hot battery acid.

I know the Ohm triangle quite well, thank you. Maybe you should check your theories in practice? Putting load on a battery (doesn't matter if it's a resistor or a motor) will drop the voltage reading to an actual level. Increasing the resistance ( R ) of a resistor connected to the battery will drop the current ( I ) drastically. There's no way you can increase the voltage of a battery pack by putting a resistor on it! Think about it will you please?

 

Anyways the point was not to call 9.6 V batteries anything else than what they are. Even if the voltage meter shows over 10 volts with no load on the battery. It's misleading, confusing and incorrect.

 

-Sale

 

P.S. I'm quite annoyed by the fact that you didn't share your information with the rest of the people in this thread, and negrepped me instead. A report has been sent.

 

-same

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My HNC in electrical engineering (as well as my Ladybird big book of electrics) tells me Sale is right.

 

To be pedantic, if you put a high value resistor across a battery, NOTHING would happen cos the resistance would be so high that virtually no current would flow. :P

 

However, applying a bit of common sense, bunging a resistor of suitable size and wattage will draw the same current as the motor and, thus, drop the voltage to the true working level.

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If the blowback mechansim/pin/whatever breaks, will the gun still be fully functional, minus blowback if I dont open the thing up to take it out?

 

It's not wise as it would eventually fall into the gearbox. Taking the hook out is no problem though. Decompress the spring. Take out the rear pin and slide the top forward. Undo the cable attaching the two halves. Now, at the rear of the gearbox you'll see a little sliver plate that slides along. The hook and spring are on that. Carefully remove them (making sure they don't fall into the gearbox) and then just do up the cable, slide the halves back together and push the pin back in.

 

It's about a 3 minute job.

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It's not wise as it would eventually fall into the gearbox. Taking the hook out is no problem though. Decompress the spring. Take out the rear pin and slide the top forward. Undo the cable attaching the two halves. Now, at the rear of the gearbox you'll see a little sliver plate that slides along. The hook and spring are on that. Carefully remove them (making sure they don't fall into the gearbox) and then just do up the cable, slide the halves back together and push the pin back in.

 

It's about a 3 minute job.

Dude, will you PLEASE stop telling people to do that?

 

If you do that the blowback follower is left flopping around on the back of the gearbox upper.

You NEED to remove the follower as well or it'll cause damage to the piston as it flops around.

 

Undo the screw at the top rear of the cylinder, slide the blowback follower, c/w hook and spring, all the way back and lift it out completely before replacing the screw.

 

Alternatively, if you are hopelessly clueless, at least stick some duct tape over the follower to stop it moving around.

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the follower should pretty much lock into position if you push it right to the rear , although i would suggest taking it right out (if i actually disconnected my blowback)

It won't lock in position. It'll rattle around as the gun fires.

True, it should always end up in the rearward position because the piston ends its stroke wound back.

I'd be more concerned that it is rattling around randomly when you shoot in auto.

There is a lot of kinetic energy at work when an AEG fires and a loose part can quickly cause damage.

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nope but one or two pistons going out of how many , now did you have a purpose to posting or just here to abuse ?

 

all guns faulty when 2 of all that we know of had proken pistons ? both by mates ,bought at the same time from the same place !

now try and tell me that can be seen as typical of the series !

especially when no other L85 has had this problem

Wtf?

 

When did I ever 'abuse' you? Honestly, do you read?

 

Or just imagine things in your head to suit you?

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Pariahwolf, do you own a G&G L85 or intend to buy one?

Do you have any interest in buying one?

 

You've made your opinion about the gun pretty clear. Unless you have anything new to add I can't really see any point in you continuing to post in this thread.

 

You don't have any solid information to offer. All you have is a prejudiced opinion which you've already made quite clear.

Butting into the thread at random points just to drop "So, this gun sucks, then?!" thread bombs isn't really very useful or helpful, is it?

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Could someone post a guide (with pics) on how to remove the little silver plate that the blow back hook sits in?

As already posted SEVERAL times....

 

Simply remove the allen-headed screw at the top rear of the gearbox.

Slide the follower (the silver thing) backwards and then lift it out.

Replace the screw.

 

You don't really need pictures do you? ;)

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After closer inspection no. I couldn't find the screw you were talking about before.

*sigh* :(

 

Carefully examine the attached picture.

Remove the highlighted screw.

Slide the blowback gizmo backwards.

Lift up upwards.

Replace the screw.

 

blowbackfollower.jpg

 

Any questions?

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Well... Did you really do it yourself, and did youi really only remove that one screw?

 

In that case you'd have to flex the gearbox quite a bit, can't be good...

 

I had to remove the four screws, slide off the plate on top, and take apart the shells. Throw the alu block through your room, and reassemble.

 

Or am i such a retard, and could have removed only that screw....

(Did it when i removed the busted piston)

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two quick things.

pedantic really.

1. one of the functions of the real steel isn't carried throught to the G+G, the button on the left side of the TMH to release the bolt catch is a dummy on the G+G. Someone said they all worked.

 

2. Another person said that the piston problem is caused by stripping the gearbox incorrectly. I stripped mine correctly in every case and I believe it was using the 9.6 volt battery against G+G's reccomendation that killed mine.

 

my rail was a bit wobbly too, I took the 3 bolts off, put a dab of super glue on it and torqued them up, no wobble any more.

 

Stunt

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Unbelieveable! Instead of sharing his "knowledge" to the public, SilentSerpent decided to negrep me for this post!

 

A quote from the message he left me:

i guess you never learned V=IR, bigger resistor means bigger voltage, not smaller. electrical resistance isn't the same as actually loading the motor. not flaming you, just really peeves me when people don't check stuff! If people go giving out duff advice to do with electrics, it's only a matter of time before some idiot covers himself in hot battery acid.

I know the Ohm triangle quite well, thank you. Maybe you should check your theories in practice? Putting load on a battery (doesn't matter if it's a resistor or a motor) will drop the voltage reading to an actual level. Increasing the resistance ( R ) of a resistor connected to the battery will drop the current ( I ) drastically. There's no way you can increase the voltage of a battery pack by putting a resistor on it! Think about it will you please?

 

Anyways the point was not to call 9.6 V batteries anything else than what they are. Even if the voltage meter shows over 10 volts with no load on the battery. It's misleading, confusing and incorrect.

 

-Sale

 

P.S. I'm quite annoyed by the fact that you didn't share your information with the rest of the people in this thread, and negrepped me instead. A report has been sent.

 

-same

admittedly, i didn't think that one through too well, i'll add the rep again. but it doesn't change the fact that what you said was entirely wrong. my father (physics and maths degree) is convinced that adding a massive resistor to a simple battery circuit will do absolutely nothing to the voltage, and even if it did, it will certainly not simulate the motor being loaded in any way at all. so we were both wrong, but i didn't post my findings until i was sure, that's the difference.

 

SS

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Okay, so due to some fierce debating at the moment. I'm going to release my reivew of the L85 prematurely. I'd wanted to wait until after sunday to skirmish it properly. So I won't discuss its specific performance in skirmish here until I get a chance to really test it properly. But for now;

 

First Impressions:

Upon opening the 6 layers of bubble wrap AW put on it (excellent service from them BTW) I was confronted by the best looking airsoft box I've seen yet. Properly offset litho colour printed, embossed and shiney it shows the union jack with images of the L85. Very attractive and it adds to the collectable nature of the gun. The box encompassed the whole thing, its not just a cover for a polystyrene case like most TM guns. This had caught my attention and I had high hopes. Upon opening the box up and sliding out the very chic grey and white polystyrene I see the gun. Its stunning. No other word for it. It literally winded me, I had high hopes for it but it was way better than I thought it would be. Equal to or better than the STARs finish. It looks very realistic, down to the gas assembly in the upper front handguard.

 

The Carry handle and foresight come seperated. These take a little bit of work to get on. Read the manual first before doing this else you may scratch them up or even break them. The magazine is of the ICS 450rd style type. Its as large as a real steel STANAG magazine (TMs, G&Ps, MAGs, etc. are smaller). But like all airsoft guns the mag doesn't sit as high in teh gun. The effect of this is that the mag protrudes about a half inch more than usual. Although this isn't that unusual as at one point there were ~40rd mags available for the L85. Although only a few were ever purchased and I only ever saw one in the armoury at RAF Odiham. TM mags fit it fine and sit perfectly in it. The mags wont fall out like the real steel A1. The spring is much tougher and the fit around the mag is much tighter. Remember how real steel mags used to wobble in the mag well? this doesnt happen at all. its very tight in a good secure way. Not too tight as to not be able to get the mags in though.

 

FROM FRONT TO BACK...

The Barrel

A very nice metal barrel, machined in two pieces. The flash hider end and the cylindrical body end. Nothing too fancy but it does mean there is no 14mm thread. Its like the FAMAS flash hider with an allen key removal. Still, very nice and I can't see why anyone would want to be fiddlign with teh barrel anyway except to fit a tracer unit. And I suspect an adaptor in the existing kit probably for the FAMAS will fit it. Though don't quote me on that.

 

The Foregrip

Made of very nice good coloured green plastic. Roughly as thick as the real thing and as strong. it feels very similar to the real thing and the slightly rough surface finish is very realistic. Not like the shiney plastic foregrips we're often used to seeing on other guns, namely armalites.

 

The Body

The body is very realistic. If it werent for the fact G&G Armament. Made in Taiwan. Was stamped on the rear of the lower reciever it would be very very hard for even a soldier to tell the difference between it and the real thing. The only other sign its not real is G&G is written in very small writting on the foregrip in the identifier area. The finish in black is very nice and I've noticed mine scratches like the real thing to. Its going to look a little odd at first with just a few dinks in it, but after a while it will 'weather' like the real thing. Decide for yourself whether you like that or not, personally if it has to dent and scratch at least it'll look true to form. Infact the thing that really gives it away as not being real is that the surface finish is too good!

 

The Sights/Rail

These are an area of some confussion. Let me clear it up. They are not standard. They are dovetail not pictinny, but are 19.9mm wide. I suspect this was done not so it could take standard optics, but rather so the STAR SUSAT and Real SUSAT wouldn't fit it, thus preventing people buying the STAR SUSAT befoer G&G release theirs. Which to be honest I would have done if I could probably. The carry handle itself is very nice, finished in black and attaches as the real steel does. It complements the body nicely. Mine wobbles slightly but I can tighten it up from the inside later.

 

The Bolt and yes...the Blowback

The bolt and reciver are very realistic. It makes a good noise when it closes. I didn't fire mine with the blowback on and heres the bottom line: No other AEG has blow back as standard yet like this. You are privillidged ot have it and not have to pay another £50 for a kit! If your afraid of it breaking DISABLE IT! If you don't your an idiot if you then complain later when it breaks. Its rather like not buying a car for the fear one day you might get a flat tyre. I've said it before and I'll say it again...

 

Airsoft guns are complex mechanical devices with a violent action. With or Without Blowback. Thats why all the parts are replaceable. Breakage is inevitable.

 

edit: and to everyone who says "du'h...but the breaking blowback bolt destroys the gears!" Let me use my car anaolgy again... if your car has a flat tyre at 70mph on a motorway the ensuing crash will probably write off your car...it might even kill you. The two situations are directly comprable. if you don't want to risk death don't go in one. If you don't want to strip some gears disable the blowback mechanism.

 

Moving on, the bolt locks back nicely in a similar way to the real steel rifle. This allows you to adjust the 3 piece HOP Up. The HOP initially seems good and accurate though I will confirm on sunday.

 

Overall Impressions/Conclusion

 

This is a beautiful gun. G&G have echoed the design philosphy of british designers, especailly those who made the L85. Form has no place in this guns design, but through the perfection of its ergonomics and design it achieves an attractive form. In the same way a spitfire or challenger II does. Its a machine of warefare not a work of art. Its an innovate piece and seems to perform well. If you want an L85 buy this not the STAR. The key thing is, everything about this gun says "Wow, I got this for £300!", whereas with STAR its a case of "hmm, well i wanted an L85, i guess £400 is just what I'll have to pay". I'm in love with this gun, its brilliant. I hope it lives up to my expectations.

 

Don't buy this if your new to airsoft, and I'd advise you don't buy it unless you've some experience with either the real steel L85 or L98. Its a bit complex by comparison to an armalite or HK gun. Its really too complicated for a newb, like the real thing it'll need a fair bit of post skirmish TLC to keep it in top condition. And although it strips easily, getting it back together can be tricky. Removal of the blow back bolt is very easy but due to the stripping I doubt a newb could do it properly, and may damage the TMH trying to get it back together.

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Pariahwolf, do you own a G&G L85 or intend to buy one?

Do you have any interest in buying one?

 

You've made your opinion about the gun pretty clear. Unless you have anything new to add I can't really see any point in you continuing to post in this thread.

 

You don't have any solid information to offer. All you have is a prejudiced opinion which you've already made quite clear.

Butting into the thread at random points just to drop "So, this gun sucks, then?!" thread bombs isn't really very useful or helpful, is it?

If they sorted the blatant problems I may buy one.

 

Solid Information? On What? That the blowback design is ######? That there are various visual problems? That several pistons have stripped? What are you on about?

 

Prejudiced opinion? Why is it prejudice, because I have high standards?

 

I was posting to reply to 1st Commando's previous posts, it wasn't random.

 

And finally, I don't care if you think I should be posting, it's public forum.

 

@Prolific: Ergonomics? Ever used the gun? The cocking handle is awefully placed, the foregrip is flat bottomed, it's all angles and it weights quite a bit after a long tab. Ergonomics barely entered into the design.

 

Is there really no thread under the flash hider?

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Pariahwolf, do you own a G&G L85 or intend to buy one?

Do you have any interest in buying one?

 

You've made your opinion about the gun pretty clear. Unless you have anything new to add I can't really see any point in you continuing to post in this thread.

 

You don't have any solid information to offer. All you have is a prejudiced opinion which you've already made quite clear.

Butting into the thread at random points just to drop "So, this gun sucks, then?!" thread bombs isn't really very useful or helpful, is it?

 

i love it, 'predjudiced opinion'. i really would love you to point out to me an opinion on this page, or for that matter anywhere, that isn't predjudiced. by definition, an opinion is someone's own personal predjudice towards a particular subject, lol. just because his predjudice leans the other way to yours doesn't make it wrong, there are just as many people raving about the apparent perfection of this gun as there are raving about it's shittyness, and IMO they're both wrong as i've expressed.

 

to be fair, there is a bit of a 'this gun is *beep*' feel about what you're saying Pariahwolf. try and give a more reasoned argument, then people can't get self righteous about it.

 

SS

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Sorry Pariah, i'm not one for forum bashing usually (honestly!) but you were set agains the G&G L85 before it came out...now its out and you don't like it. You don't even own one. Come on man, your making yourself look uniformed and biased.

 

Ergonomically its a good gun. Infact its a brilliant gun. The cocking handle is perfectly placed if you use your left hand over the top of the gun to slide it back, let it slife forward following it with your hand and then tap (forward assist) it afterward. it takes a second if that. Or holding it tight to your should let go of the pistol grip with your right hand and use it to pull the bolt back, let it slide foward following it with your hand and tap it once its located.

 

Its weighty, but a british soldier has good upper body strength. I'm puny...literally and it never bothered me using it. Even after running. If your having trouble I suggest the gym is in order, not a redesign of the gun. The foregrip and pistolgrip are a little uncomfortable to hold for long durations but the idea is if your not shooting with it you don't grip onto it hard. Let the sling take up most of the weight and just keep a loose hold on it to stop it swinging and so you can shoulder it quickly if nessessary.

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That the blowback design is ######?  - Its being fixed. In the mean time disable it.

 

That there are various visual problems? - Only thing I can find is the mag catch being the wrong colour and the G&G trades (not that bad)

 

That several pistons have stripped? - Isn't it 3 so far? And due to not following the insturctions. Compare that to the motors in the STAR.

 

What are you on about? - I'm going to ask you the same thing.

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i'm sorry Prolific, but i have to ask, have you used the gun, because both myself and (i believe) Pariahwolf have used it extensively, and in a combat situation, nothing is where you want it to be. the cocking handle really is awfully placed, i mean, come on, you have to reach over the gun to get at it. the AUG is an ergonomic gun, cocking handle brilliantly placed, balance is ok but not great, shouldering is good, foregrip is good, weight is excellent. the L85 gets an average at best in all of these factors.

 

the fact is that the L85 was rushed into service, and is therefore more like a prototype made field ready, that a finished product. now the EM2, that was a gun...

 

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