P226 lower frame and mag strip

[amateurstuntman]

Hello there, this is my second attempt at this thread since my photo hosting has gone caput, I had lost the originals too.

 

Today I dis*albatross*embled and photographed my friend's one.

 

So, starting from scrach:

 

Remove the magazine.

 

 

Field strip

 

Rotate the dis*albatross*embly lever down and push the slide forwards off the frame.

 

 

 

Push the recoil rod and spring forward then pull it out and down to remove.

Same drill for the barrel.

 

Tht will leave you with this:

 

Remove the inner barrel from the outer. It just pulls out, on some aftermarket outer barrels the inner is really stiff but it does just pull out.

 

If you choose to pull the inner barrel *albatross*embly apart to change the hop rubber then it is just a matter of removing these two screws.

 

 

 

Slide

 

To strip the slide you must first remove these two screws that hold on the read sight.

 

Once they are off you then gently pull apart the two sides of the slide and pull the blow back mechanism out of the slide.

 

Be careful, a pin will spring out when you do

 

 

The pin came out of here.

 

This is what it looks like when it is in the blow back mechanism i.e. this is how it has to go back in when you re-assemble.

 

If you wish to dis*albatross*emble the nozzle further then you need to undo the tiny screw on the left of the picture, if you want to change the piston head it is in the right of the picture.

 

Re-assembly is the reverse.

When you re-assemble, the pin that sprung out earlier goes back in like this then you poke it in and push down on the blow back mechanism at the same time.

[amateurstuntman]

To strip the frame we start with the left grip, two screws removes it.

 

You will then see the decocker, it looks like this.

If it does not look like that it is broken.

 

Then you flip the weapon over and undo the two screws on the right hand side.

 

You then need to remove the little spring that holds the trigger bar up into the correct position, this is it in the correct postion.

 

Push up and back on the recoil spring block to remove it.

 

Push the take-down lever through the body to activate the safety then push the detente down with something and push the lever all the way through.

 

Undo this screw.

 

Remove this screw.

 

Push these two pins out.

 

This is them out relative to their holes.

 

Lift the trigger mechanism and hammer *albatross*embly out, watch out for the two circled bits, they have a tendency to jump out.

 

These bits, a spring and the valve knocker disconnector.

 

If the valve knocker disconnecter does pop out this is how it goes back in.

 

 

 

 

Hammer mechanism

 

 

To split the hammer mechanism down you need to undo these two screws.

 

They are different lengths, make sure they go back in the right holes.

 

Next out are the hammer and hammer sear, the correct orientation of the hammer sear spring in in the photo.

 

Once those are out the only bit left in the hammer mechanism is the valve knocker.

It has two springs interacting with it, one inside the mech pushing it down, one outside the mech pulling it back, there are close-ups of each below.

 

 

 

 

Re-assembly is the reverse.

 

 

Trigger *albatross*embly

 

To take down the trigger mech tap out this pin.

 

You are left with this.

 

You can take it down further but remember to put it back like this.

 

 

No real need to but if you need to take the detente out then tap this pin out and look out for the tiny spring.

 

 

 

Big pile of bits.

 

 

Don't worry re-assembly is the reverse with the following exceptions:

 

To put the hammer mech back in, put the trigger mech in first then make sure the trigger bar is in this position.

 

 

Then place the hammer mech in, it won't fit, gently push the slide lock to the side while pushing down on the hammer *albatross*embly then pull the trigger a couple of times while still pushing down on the hammer mech, it will pop in.

Picture.

 

Video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PV0zsTHCGhI

 

Some people find it hard to get the hammer spring back in, the notch in the top of the hammer spring guide fits on to a little pin that goes through the hammer.

Here are some pictures of it to help you find it.

 

 

 

 

 

Hope that helps, as ever, if you need any help. Feel free to contact me.

[amateurstuntman]

Next, locate and undo this screw:

 

That is the last thing you need to remove to take out all the internals.

The trigger group and hammer group will come out at the same time.

 

 

All that remains now is to take out the mag release catch.

Find this plastic tab inside the gun:

 

Pull that up and out of the gun and the mag catch will be free to come out of the side.

 

You do not need to remove the plate and tiny screw from the right hand side of the frame to remove the mag catch. You only need to remove it if you want to switch the mag catch to the right hand side.

There is nowhere for the plate to screw onto on the left side but the mag catch can be put on the right by setting the spring in this position:

 

 

Now you have the main assemblies out of the frame. You can strip them further though.

 

 

Trigger assembly

 

When you pull the two assemblies out of the gun, this spring will probably ping out.

 

You need to put it in a safe place anyway.

Now look for the trigger pin:

 

When you remove this pin the whole thing will fall apart,

 

the trigger has a spring on it and the slide catch is attached though it,

On the other side of the trigger is a pin that mounts into the trigger and receives the safety tab and trigger bar:

 

Here is another shot of the back of that pin when it is in place in the assembly:

 

Be careful to get it in the right position before trying to get the gun back together, it is a bit of a pain and the end of the trigger bar has a bit of a cam shape to it and if you get it wrong you can't just bend it back in the right place.

[amateurstuntman]

The last bits remaining in the trigger group are the takedown lever detente components.

 

Here is the detente from above:

 

And from below:

 

To remove it tap out this pin and the spring will be released, once the spring is free the detente will follow.

 

The parts:

 

Note that the spring is shown here the right way around.

i.e. loop to the top and the edge closest to the plastic bit is the bit that acts on the plastic bit.

 

 

Hammer Group

 

You have the hammer group out and the firing pin release has probably already fallen off but if it hasn't then this is it:

 

There is a little spring in there too, it will ping out so be ready to catch it:

 

Now flip the hammer group over and find the two screws and remove them.

They are two different lengths so make sure you remember which is which (the long one is the front one).

 

Now you can split open the hammer group and remove the hammer sear spring and hammer sear:

 

The hammer will then lift out and you will have access to the firing pin and the firing pin vertical return spring.

 

Pull out the vertical return spring and flip the hammer group over again to get at the firing pin horizontal return spring:

[amateurstuntman]

Now you can pull the firing pin out.

 

Here is what you will be left with:

 

And that is your lot!

Your gun is now in all the components it can be in.

Putting it back is pretty much the reverse.

When you put the hammer and trigger groups back you will need to fiddle with it a bit, they are easier to get in if they go in together.

 

Just in case you run into a problem here is a picture of all the springs in the frame with the part numbers above them.

 

*phew*

 

aaaand relax

 

Stunt

[amateurstuntman]

YOU ARE MY HERO!!!!  Thank you so much for posting this!!!  You  just saved me from having to go the local gun doctor for help!!! 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

No problem buddy, this is what forums are for.

 

Stunt

[hardboiledcop]

Hi stunt,

 

Didn't really want to start a new thread but I don't suppose you could detail how to remove the outer barrel from the inner barrel/hop assembly. (it's a prime barrel if that helps) I need to have the slide and barrel separate to get them anodised.

 

ta.

[amateurstuntman]

It just pulls out, on the Prime one there is just a lot less clearance for bits to move around and you have to give it a really good old shove to get the nub on the left side of the hop unit past the tang on the left side of the barrel.

[PenGun]

Another issue with the Sig is that sometimes changing the mag release to the right hand side of the frame (i.e. for lefties) makes the slide catch less reliable.

The reason is the mag release spring is strong enough to push the entire mag body away from the little protrusion on the slide catch that the magazine follower hits when you run out of BBs.

It might be an easy fix if you have a bit of tape or something inside the magwell to keep Mr. Magazine in position.

Same sort of thing as on the WA Beretta PV. Bit of tape and its fixed

 

P.S. any idea how to get a matte fininsh on a Creation slide? I just want to make it a bit duller or very slightly worn so it stands out against the frame.

 

E.g. this type of thing...

[PenGun]

Another issue with the Sig is that sometimes changing the mag release to the right hand side of the frame (i.e. for lefties) makes the slide catch less reliable.

The reason is the mag release spring is strong enough to push the entire mag body away from the little protrusion on the slide catch that the magazine follower hits when you run out of BBs.

It might be an easy fix if you have a bit of tape or something inside the magwell to keep Mr. Magazine in position.

Same sort of thing as on the WA Beretta PV. Bit of tape and its fixed

 

P.S. any idea how to get a matte fininsh on a Creation slide? I just want to make it a bit duller or very slightly worn so it stands out against the frame.

 

E.g. this type of thing...

 

 

Steel wool scare the bejesus out of me...

[Wege]

Hmm. I would guess clearing all the paint that is on there at present, and then look at painting it in a dark dark grey, and then baking it (the paint) onto the slide.

 

That is such a nice look.

[hardboiledcop]

looks to me in that picture that the slide has also been rounded off at the edges.

 

Also, in that image, the controls all match the matte grey slide.. don't know whether it would look as good if the slide was the only part which was off-tone.

[hardboiledcop]

hey guys, I had great difficulty stripping my 226 the other day and I thought I'd ask for a little advice.

 

the two parts I had trouble with are as follows..

 

1) the tiny screw which holds the plate covering the mag release.. it just wouldnt budge, even with my watchmakers screwdrivers(they weren't phillips heads btw)

 

2) the large pin holding the hammer mech. I was able to remove the small one using a hammer and small pin.. however the large pin I had great difficulty trying to remove, I actually gave up in the end and reassembled..

 

So, is there any special way to remove the large pin with a small tip?

[amateurstuntman]

Well all I can think of is that it helped me to take the hammer spring out first and that you have to knock it out right to left, left to right won't work.

The pin is a really tight fit in my prime frame, so much so that I filed the inside of the hole and the outside of the pin.

Then I had to whack it really hard with my pin hammer.

 

It isn't held in by anything special, just friction.

[hardboiledcop]

so the most likely cause is that Un probably didn't file it down at all, hence stuck

[davedawg123]

The pin was a pain in the *albatross* to install on my Prime kit. I think it had more to do with the hole being slightly off-center than it being too small, but I could be mistaken. Take a heavy hammer and steel pin punch to it.

 

As for the mag release plate screw, I was able to use an eyeglass screwdriver (perfect fit) to undo it. If it's not budging even with firm pressure applied with the proper screwdriver, perhaps you should email UNCo and ask if they applied loctite on it.

[Tion]

Hi, could someone tell me what i've done wrong in this picture?

 

I'm sure something is wrong with how i put the decocking lever back on.

And now when i go to put the grip on theres a small gap at the top about 3 or 4mm and it wont sit flush, plus when using the lever to decock, the lever only goes bac half way to the top, until i fire and it springs back...

 

I dont't understand

[amateurstuntman]

The spring is utterly knackered.

 

Look near the top of this post to see where it is supposed to go but you will either need to re-shape it or get another.

[Tion]

OK,

where does it need re-shaping?

and where would i go about getting one?

 

Thanks for the reply.

[Romulus]

I tried to do that one time . Didn't work very well.

 

As for sourcing a new one last time I looked Uncompany has a pretty good selection of KJW Sig P226 parts and my guess, maybe someone else could back me up, is that they would be compatible.

 

I do sort of wonder why they put that hole there though. Seems like it is just begging for this to happen.

 

Good Luck

[amateurstuntman]

Uncompany or leonardinjapan@hotmail.com for replacements.

The spring needs to go in the notch between the hole you have put it in and the hole where the bottom part comes through the top part.

Just re-shape it with pliers until it looks like the one in my picture.

[Tion]

Ok i will give it ago. I can't beleve they put a hole there thats practically made for the spring.

 

And because when i took the hand grip off the spring flew across the room i didn't see where it went properly, i had a 'quick' look at stunts pics and thought i was right to put it where i put it.. i thought it was a bit hard to force in there..

 

bad TM

 

I'll give re-shaping the spring a try and see how that works out.

 

Cheers for replies.

Tim.

[Xander Bolanos]

This thread is pure win thank you for this. I searched online in the States for a guide like this and came up empty handed. Thank YOU!!!!

 

 

[Gooner]

Tnx for this, u saved my life with this thread.

Planing to repaint the lower frame of my p226.

[amateurstuntman]

One post and you used it to thank me

 

Thank you.