Wege Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 Righto.. well.. here it is. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture039.jpg Take your bog standard 5.1 gbb pistol After removing the slide (please read your manual!) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture040.jpg Please have these tools handy. (maybe a cloth and some silicone spray too actually to wipe clean and lube) First things to remove are the thumb-safeties. Start at this point http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture041.jpg and move the safety up to here http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture042.jpg . Note: the hammer must be in the "cocked" position. To make sure that you do not lose two small important pieces, do as I did, and hold a hand in the way http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture043.jpg . Those pieces are actually where they fell, and have not been picked up from about 2 metres away. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture003.jpg put your punch here, and get ready to press it on through, pushing the pin out like so... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture004.jpg Now then, pull the punch out and you will see this: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture005.jpg Pull the hammer-spring housing out and have a looksie: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture011.jpg . You can see the little brass pin keeping the spring cap and spring inside the housing. This is where you put a 'new hammer spring' if you feel you need to. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture009.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture008.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture007.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture006.jpg Assorted pictures of the 3-leaf-spring and it's placement in the rear of the grip. Not the slot that is in the grip that the spring fits exactly into. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture010.jpg Side note- See this point here on the spring? bend that big bit a BIT further (a hint..a smidgeon, not much, tiny (get the point here?)) to sometimes correct the grip-safety failing. Now the plastic grip itself - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture012.jpg here and here http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture013.jpg are where you need to undo. (Note - use a magnetic screwdriver.... it makes things so much easier when putting screws in, and pulling them out.) It should look like this now http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture014.jpg To take out the trigger, you have to remove the magazine release. Put your flat head screwdriver in, press and rotate (anti-clockwise?). Now the mag release will come out and you can then pull out the trigger and trigger-bar. Note the punch is pointing at the little pin holding trigger to trigger-bar. This is where you attach your new trigger. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture016.jpg IF you want to change the grip over, and nothing else, well, you can stop reading, and do the 5.1 back up. otherwise, carry on. Inner bits: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture017.jpg Phillips head again. Pull the screw out and then you can lift off the side piece like so http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture018.jpg ( I am taking the pics with my right hand, and holding it with my left). This is the easiest way/place to get this piece off of the main part of the receiver. The next show the positions of the hammer, sear, and a part that I don't know the name. NOTE the wear that is present on the sear. Intriguing that this part has gone for a year and has done this. Hmmm... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture019.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture020.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture021.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture022.jpg No bits!.. just silicon oil. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture023.jpg Note the position of these parts. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture024.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture025.jpg shows the spring that you need to remove. Note how the long arm hooks in and underneath that shiny hammer pin!.. That is the hammer pin folks. Take good care of it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture026.jpg pulling off the spring. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture027.jpg pulling out pin. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture028.jpg note the small bit on the firing pin that fits into the groove of the dark metal housing. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture029.jpg slightly different shot again. Unscrew the phillips head screw as you can see, pull of the little piece and you will see something like this: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture030.jpg To put it back in (after cleaning and lubing of course) you will need to hold it like so http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture031.jpg or fluke it like this! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture032.jpg This shot shows where the bits go back into, or how the correlate. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture033.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture035.jpg shows how the firing pin should be able to be moved. You will see two pieces moving. Now, put it all back together!. Note: when putting the metal receiver back together, use the domed head phillps screwdriver, and STOP! when the screwing motion stops. Any further and you will risk stripping the thread. Like wise when attaching the plastic grip to the receiver. Don't give it 'one for luck'. The grip and slide is pretty much the only plastic on this gbb, which I find is pretty damned good. And now put it back into it's home http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture036.jpg (in this case a NATO M12 holster). Any questions? Link to post Share on other sites
Gene Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 Woah! Brilliant! This should be stickied or summat! Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted October 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2005 Should I re-write this? I know I knocked the words together in like ermm. 15 minutes.. lol.. perhaps I should add more arrows to the pictures... Ideally I would prefer to film the beastie... Link to post Share on other sites
willnyc Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 how do you put the "two small important pieces" back in the gun? Where do they go? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v634/weg.../Picture043.jpg Link to post Share on other sites
willnyc Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Ok nevermind I figured it out but I lost the "important spring" shown in the pic, can anyone verify that this would be a suitable replacement: http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i..._cat_WA%20Parts Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 "Part that I don't know the name" be a disconnector. Thanks for the guide! I know my way around various guns and it's not a problem for me to learn to disassemble a completely new model myself, but a detailed guide always makes life easier. Hammer and sear by Carom and hammer spring by Guarder coming up in the mechanism of my Hi-Capa later this week. EDIT: Just looked at the last pic. You have the same holster as I do! Not the best one available but the price was decent (about 50 USD) and it protects the gun well. I've been thinking about getting a thumb break for it instead of the flap. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted May 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Yeppers. I have an enhanced recoil spring, as well as enhanced hammer spring(i think both are 150%...).. Meh.. I wouldn't bother. It played havoc with the smooth cycling, and also made cycling inconsistent at times to. I DO recall seeing someone saying that hammer OR recoil spring was to be used in conjunction with a metal slide. Yep.. Bianchi holster = good. I like that 'silent' option. I have that as default anyways. Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Hammer and sear by Carom and hammer spring by Guarder coming up in the mechanism of my Hi-Capa later this week. -Sale <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I want to hear all about how that turns out. My sear looks a little ragged on my older hicapa. Post your results some where, or PM me. Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted May 6, 2006 Report Share Posted May 6, 2006 Well I haven't used my Hi-Capa much so I don't think the original parts are worn at all. I expect the Carom bits to be a drop in fit and last as long as I live, as they are stainless steel. Simple as that. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted May 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2006 The parts on mine are going nicely. I think that what I thought was wear on mine, was infact how it was supposed to be. Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 Okay, installed the parts. I put the original hammer and Carom stainless hammer on a letter scale (?) before installing. TM: 10 grams Carom: 13 grams Green gas and Bioval 0.2g's were used for testing. Biovals typically give a bit less muzzle velocity. Maybe they are a bit heavier? Well, I used the same BB:s for the test so it doesn't matter. Stock condition except for PGC piston head. Most of the time it was giving 81-82 m/s. After installing the hammer and sear, 85-86 m/s. Funny? I think so too. The new hammer is heavier so that must be the cause for this. You could try this by putting some weight in the hole of the original hammer, but the weight distribution would be different so results might vary too. The trigger pull is also better with the new parts. It's a wee bit heavier, but much more like breaking a glass rod. I measured the pull with a Lyman scale and it's 1080 grams. Exactly the same as on my real SIG Sauer X-Five. Insalling was drop in, and the parts provided a better trigger pull, more muzzle velocity and the hammer is finished nicely. Looks much better than the old one, which was actually awful to look at. I give Carom 5/5 points. This made my day. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted May 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 Any chance that has worked with the TM Grip-safety annoying issue?.. Sometimes works.. sometimes doesn't? Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 Any chance that has worked with the TM Grip-safety annoying issue?.. Sometimes works.. sometimes doesn't? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Usually, a little tug on the leftmost leaf on the leaf spring will fix mine right up. Good to know the Carom stuff is good. I got a GREAT new job, so I'll have a little money this summer.... Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted May 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 welll yep. I know that.. I was hoping that there had been some progress. Sigh Link to post Share on other sites
primussucks Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 Sale, Where did you get those parts? Id like to give them a try. Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 I bought them at DEN when I was visiting HK in March. I'm pretty sure the other brands aren't bad either. I just noticed that the slide has a little bit harder time going over the hammer on the way forward than before. I might file the part of the GBB mechanism right behind the loading nozzle to get a more smooth return cycle. I got a plastic slide and stock recoil spring so it has to be really smooth to be reliable. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 Updates again. I installed a Guarder 150% hammer spring to give the heavier hammer more speed. It revealed the hammer problem more obviously: Now it was even jamming on the way forward. It also dragged against the loading nozzle, which in turn refused to move smoothly. Double feeding and other fun stuff. I filed a good deal off the hammer and now it's working again, plus the hammer looks really wicked. (I'm really good with a file even though I say it myself.) While I had the sandpaper out to polish the filed hammer again, I polished the widest parts of the frame right around the top of the grip. It's a relatively small detail compared to polishing the whole frame, but goes extremely well together with the devilish hammer. Gotta post pics if I can get them hosted somewhere! -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
snowman Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 I tried a Guarder 150% hammer spring on a TM P226 - It was the most horrible thing I've ever encountered in airsoft, especially on D/A. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites
Glenn Posted May 12, 2006 Report Share Posted May 12, 2006 I used a 150% spring in my hicapas, and I love it. Smooth cycling, more power, as long as you use green. 134a combined with the heavier hammer spring can get a little funky. I guess that hammer and/or sear was a little out of spec, letting the hammer ride higher when in the cocked position. Good thing SS polishes up great:D As my hicapa wears, I've had to file the hammer a couple of times now. It is slowly creeping up as the sear/hammer interface gets deformed. Link to post Share on other sites
Sale Posted May 13, 2006 Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 I tried the Carom hammer with the TM sear and it had the same problem so obviously the hammer was to blame. While filing the hammer I noticed that it's not hardened at all. The file (although it's a good one. I hate bad tools) bit through it like the fat guy through a turkey wing on thanksgiving. Well, the sport shooters who wear out these parts are guys who practice just dry firing several hours a day. Maybe I don't have to worry about this, and even the softest steel is harder than the original pot metal bits. Snowman: You should try a Digicon Eagle with a Hidakaya 200% mainspring before you can talk about hard trigger pull in DA mode. -Sale Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted May 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2006 Or a silly little Marushin M1910. gosh.. that is heavy. Link to post Share on other sites
canizzle Posted June 11, 2006 Report Share Posted June 11, 2006 Someone help me. When the hammer is back, I pull the trigger and nothing happens. The hammer still stays back. Please help! Link to post Share on other sites
canizzle Posted June 11, 2006 Report Share Posted June 11, 2006 Tell me whats wrong and Show me which parts to do Link to post Share on other sites
allizard Posted June 19, 2006 Report Share Posted June 19, 2006 Pull the sear out and set your leaf spring correctly. Link to post Share on other sites
Laike Posted June 22, 2006 Report Share Posted June 22, 2006 Is there something I'm doing wrong? For some reason, my hammer won't pull back and lock, it snaps back forward. I figure by taking it apart and adjusting the 3 leaf spring, it might fix it (am I correct on the assumption?). the problem is, I can't push the thumb safety pushed up farther than it should go with teh slide on, and I can't cock the hammer to see if that would make any difference. It's a WE Hi Capa btw. Am I even using the right fix? Link to post Share on other sites
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