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Everything posted by renegadecow

  1. With BOG's kit and a sling mine weighs 3.08kg.
  2. The stiffer floating valve spring works great! I didn't need all that much of a boost so just modified mine instead of buying after market ones. Stretched out an extra 30% in length and retempered yielded a good 10% increase in muzzle velocity, just enough so the bbs aren't as easy to dodge at a distance.
  3. Late reply but I think it's to provide consistent output in case of 1 or 2 barrels not being loaded. The valves will shut allowing sufficient pressure to build up in the barrels that are chambered.
  4. Much thank! Meanwhile, I made Waffen SS sniper veils.
  5. I made a thing. Also selling them on Etsy
  6. Thanks. I use a metal rod as a mandrel with a vise grip holding one end of the spring and a flat piece of PVC with sized holes and a screw on the edge as a wire guide. I turn it by hand, going slowly to make sure the coils get the proper tension and negative angle so they're compressed tightly against each other. After the needed number of coils is reached I reverse is slowly to ease off tension then cut the ends. For compression springs I stretch it out by hand, sometimes using a rod or screwdriver shaft as a spacer towards the ends then temper.
  7. So I tried lowering my ROF today by making a new spring instead of cutting coils. New one on top just shorter by 3-4 coils, but made of 0.8mm wire vs 1.0mm on the original. ROF dropped to 660rpm and so did muzzle velocity to around 300fps, but I also encountered occasional light strikes and a very strange condition where it would consistently disconnect the sear in full auto making it fire in semi unless I put forward and upward pressure on the handguard while firing. I put the original spring back and it was shooting normally although the magazine valve got stuck forward. Opening the valve ap
  8. There's the possibility that the sear or disconnector is beginning to conk out. I remember mine doing that until I eventually replaced it with a steel set.
  9. That won't work. #17 is the semi auto sear and is pushed back far enough to clear the hammer in semi and full. What happens in full auto is #20 disconnector is also pushed back so it won't catch the hammer. Removing the protrusion on #24 that pushes #20 will keep it firing in semi-auto no matter how deeply you pull the trigger. But it would be easier to just add material to the selector so that semi and full limits trigger pull to the same distance and is easily reversed.
  10. Posted at a local FB page. Seems the barrel breaking isn't an isolated case anymore.
  11. I drill/tap the top of the trunnion for a grub screw. I put super glue too but if it works itself loose (recoil's a *badgeress*) I can access it through the rear sight block.
  12. You mean this part sheared off the outer barrel?
  13. It's a fairly simple compression spring with lots of tolerances so finding a suitable replacement won't be too hard. You can also insert a smaller diameter spring inside it to bring the tension up, maybe from a ballpoint pen. One other modification (if you could call it that) which I now remembered after going over my internals is polishing the top and edges of the disconnector (#62) where it engages the trip (#67).
  14. You might be on to something with the weak sear spring. As for the mechanism for select fire, it has a disconnector that's tripped by the bolt.
  15. The track for the spring is on the slide so keep the slide upside down and tilted a bit forward while reinstalling the BBU while making sure the nozzle is held back.
  16. Best to contact them about it. It might be listed as a whole sub assembly or under a different name. If they don't have it I'm sure they can sort you out since they have a direct line with WE.
  17. I'd check the nozzle for cracks and the piston cup for tears. 2nd is to check proper function of valve knocker and knocker lock.
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