ED-SKaR

I did reply to that a few pages ago, i said that they are smaller than 12 and larger than 20. I have managed to get a 20 brass to feed into my maruzen shotgun, it does not eject though because the brass rim is too small so the extractor dosent touch it. I dont have calipers to properly measure the rims. picture for proof, not that it helps really. http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp129/E...aR/DSC00119.jpg

Thanks for the reply. Thats very good news, a sniper should be consistant after all else. I would be doing 400-450 for it but just knowing the hop is good quality is nice.

I have been considering using one of the single BB shotgun as a sniper rifle that looks like a shotgun. What is your experiance with long distance shots? Is the hop any good?

Yep, it was flipped, I fixed it now .

from what i have heard the Clone M3s have a habbit of breaking the piston assembly so it wont cock at all(the bits the action bars touch break) I have also heard one case of a trigger breakage causing the gun to be cocked and stay that way forever, and more than a few that the spring on the piston isn't strong enough so it misfeeds. They are lower quality than the TM, but they are a third of the price. Either is fair game(i'd prefer a TM but then i am an airsoft snob)

I have considered finding someone/company to make me high impact steel parts for my TM M3. "So what bits do you want made of metal?" "Err.... how about all of them" *starts dismanteling M3 and handing parts over* "Can do" *thumbs up* Its allways just seemed so expensive, i have never gone so far as to get a quote, but i'd imadgine it would be lots more than getting some china'soft company to make 10,000 units of (probably pot metal) full metal m3s.

Here is my pride and joy. An endlesly upgraded Academy SA80. Currently the only problem is i can't access the MP5 hop unit i installed, silly me, i should have thought of that. Real steel saty maglite and chinasoft ACOG (yes its a TA01, i know, i want the other one with the docter RDS, but it costs more than the saty!!)

That lee enfield is making me cry

Mine is still colourfull. Your problem might be you are spelling colour correctly, this forum is buit on a north american code, meaning you must spell words like this wrong for them to work. Colour codes are like this [color=red]test words here[/color] And that looks like this test words here

Dont worry, its because we now have a review section here in the wonderfull land of arnies. Old threads got put here and they seem new and people are reviving them. Its not wrong to talk about these guns still. This one perticularly is a good example of quirkyness.

People have spent forever upgrading GBBs to get the most FPS they can. Well, the reverse is possible too. If you use a low flow setup you get more consistant FPS (or at least that is what i have found. Of corse the simple answer is to just use 134a...

The other thread is in off topic. This really should have a thread in the Load bearing equipment forum. Either that or move the other one here.

Yes, But ONLY if there was another sub forum for GBB longarms. We allready have a subforum for GBB pistols, so i'd say set up another forum for the GBB longs and it will help people find things rather than having to search through the entire technical forum. Saying that this forum has advance recently(in good ways) through creating new sub forums to help people out(the review forums are case in point) so it could do with some attention to the techical discussion. Just my idea but it could look something like this: Technical discussion >GBB pistols >GBB rifles

The term "bore" referes to the inside diamater of the shotguns barrel. The way you work out how big "bore" means you get one pound of lead and split it into equil parts numbering the same as the bore rating. For example for 12 bore you split your one pound of lead into 12 equil parts. You take your 1/12 pound of lead and roll it into a perfect ball. This ball should fit perfectly into the barrel of a 12 bore gun. By this method if you have a higher number, for example 20 bore, you end up with a smaller ball. In this case it would be made of a 1/20 pound rather than 1/12 pound of lead

I have some 20bore and 12bore spent cartrages, and my maruzen shells are allmost exactly in the middle. so i would say 16 bore(i dont have any 16bore to check)

A long time ago that was quite popular, and is what caused the bad reputation for TM shotties breaking. They work for a little whyle with 1j (or more) springs but they tend to die. (i have never done this myself so this is hearsay not first hand fact)

Slightly OT here, but i dont want to make a new thread for it. Does anybody know how to make a 1911 full auto? I have worked out how to disable the semi-cutof, but this means that the hammer will fall when the slide is back and that would damage the BBU and probably mean you need to recock it for every shot(not full auto then). Either that or i shortstroke it so the hammer cant fall inside the slide... but i dont want to do that, Any help appreciated . Here is a picture of the 1911 i am working on http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...st&id=40952

To put it into perspective, the susat from my academy SA80s preforms in the same way as the ares mars (according to the video) however my $50 cheapo acog works just how it should do (bit fuzzy mind). If the gun stays still, then you should be able to move your head all over the place and still have the dot where the bullets/BBs land. Anything that does not do this is beyond useless. End of story!

Its not like you'd need a "main" weapon with that thing:P

There is a way of helping that problem. Draw a "crosshair" on the rear glass, then you aline the dot with the center of the drawn crosshair. It basically turns it into iron sights that use electrisity. I cant believe a "good" company like aries would make such a silly error.

All/ most of the weight is between your sholder and your right hand with the saty (i'd imadgine most bullpups are the same) This means that so long as you keep it sholdered you can move your off hand away (to change mag or signal) without the muzzle dropping due to the ballance beeing forward of your main hand in other guns. Suits me fine ^.^

Can't be "arsed" dosent even make sense.

Its not just a case of "sling a few quid" at the problem, to get a better piece of techno would firstly have a large initial outlay, and then likley a constant streem of cashflow inwards to keep it at that level. I for one am allright suffering it at its current level, as the problem is not so bad. If it gets worse i may change my tune

No it means "Can't be ASKED" as in nobody can ask you do do it.

The way i read the forum is to click on the "view new posts" and go through that page by page. I will open each pages threads that i want to read, then read them all, reply, lol, or whatever, close them all down then go to the next page of new posts. I rarely have more than 10 open at a time, and normally only 2 or 3. To check how many people are online go to the forum home and look at the very bottom of the page.