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dboys aksu second try


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aye just a teeny bit lol all three of the chinese AKSUs need cracked open as far as the UK goes.

 

Id rate this little beastie pick of the bunch. Some folks might reckon the shiny finish doesnt look right for an AKSU but I guess my real ones finish doesnt look right either then :D

 

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Although I'm a big fan of high FPS (live in American and me and the people I play with are all in the 400 FPS range), I'd be concerned with this power in $30 dollar Chinese gearboxes like in these new AKS-74Us, seems like these gearboxes are going to explode pretty soon. And this sucks because I was kind of hoping to get one of these guns and leaving them stock.

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7mm nylon bushings.

 

without access to a bore gauge its kinda difficult to make accurate measurements of an inner barrel but Id go with a standard 6.08 on basis of the unicorn being a 6.04

 

reasons for that?

 

A the maximum difference in measurements with a digital caliper between the two inner barrels is 0.03mm when the caliper is rotated inside.

 

B a drill shank with exactly 5.9mm OD has a teeny bit more perceptible play when placed inside the dboys inner barrel than when placed in the unicorn

 

Ive not had the box on this one opened but going by photos and Ads review over at ASCUK its got your general chinese clone internals XYT gearset polycarb piston cylinder head and tappet plate, and an aluminium ported piston head, motor uses spade connectors rather than hard soldered on wiring and thats about it other than the big chunk 'o' grease the chinese seem to love filling gearboxes with these days. Doesnt sound badly shimmed either.

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The internals look ok (plastic/nylon bushings), heavily greased though. Not sure about the barrel. I put more specific info in my review over on ASCUK which I plan to update with some pics & more info when I have the gearbox open again (should be done in about a week or so as the new spring & spring guide are currently otw).

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Again, excellent review Snorks!

 

Question- I recently 'upgraded' my CYMA AK74 with an Element metal body.....what a PITA- hours of dremelling, etc. Anyway, my next step is to start 'destressing' the gun (you know how we do, ;) ) and as part of that I wanted to shine the body up like a real AK that has been used and abused would be right?

 

But I can't seem to get past the dull matte finish on the Element kit- Have you been able to get that effect on the dboys?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

 

-G

Edited by Guinness
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the dboys is the sort of thin shiny finish that you'ld find on say a star L85 easy to ding and wear at the edges (give whole thing a once over first with a nice wet n dry sanding sponge to cut back a teeny bit of the glossiness)

 

If I was going the whole hog Id parkerize the receiver etc and then coat it with the *suitcasey* black finish that military AKs seem to end up covered in then start weathering that. If i get the internals sorted the way I want them I might go to the effort of doing that.

 

The alloy parts once weathered (barrel trunnion and front sight block) will be a little too silvery bright Easiest thing to do there is to airbrush a little transparent dark grey candy laquer on top to dull the bare alloy wear points.

 

the element finish Ive never seen but sounds more like the stuff thats applied to the AGM MP40? though looking at your other thread you seem to have made a good job of distressing that sort of finish on the MP40 so maybe the element stuff is tougher still? Worst case scenario blast the lot off down to bare metal, then repaint and weather that?

 

I wouldnt consider the unicorn finish accurate for an AKSU but it has to be said that the roughly blued/powdery phosphate finish it has will produce a very weathered gun (that perversely will probably look more like what someone would expect a dinged up AKSU to look like than if you showed them a weathered dboys or a real one lol) It'll give you the sort of finish you see on some middle eastern/african ones where almost all the finish has been worn off to point its almost a completely bear metal gun with just a hint of colour left to it

Edited by snorkelman
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Thank you sir-

 

I suffer from not knowing all that much about the AK family- I've always been a western weapons person. However I was told that a correct look would be more shiny blued steel than the flat dull black it currently has.

 

When I got my G&P M16A1 it had a nice, flat gray-black finish- with the 'oxidized' effect- you know where it looks like if you wiped your finger across the receiver you would get some chalky white residue? Well as soon as I took some steel wool and then a polish wheel on my dremel, it shined right up and now looks like blued steel- .....worn, blued steel ;)

 

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G&P M16A1 and XM177E2- A1 body was originally the same as the XM's

 

 

So my understanding is that is also how a proper AK should look, but I'm not sure if I am going to be able to get that out of the element body. I may try a polishing compound next to see if the cheap paint will buff up at all.

 

 

 

Oh and please forgive the existence of Armalites in an AK thread- :rolleyes:

Edited by Guinness
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the russians put a lovely blued steel finish on their pistols

 

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on my makarov its nearly jet black and super shiny/smooth

 

on the rifles though the finish Ive personally come to associate with them is a black painted finish

 

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slightly orange peel-ish and after a bit of wear it can look like this

 

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quite shiny smooth (glosy but without any real depth) with wear like this which is the one that fits in best with the dboys

 

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or this sort of even more textured finish as per 100 series again its a 'sticky' gloss finish that just hasnt had much work done underneath it to smooth it out or give it any sort of depth

 

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whereas this very even matte textured 'perfecty applied' style finish Ive only really come to associate with reworked collectors pieces

 

For the element Id have thought the best bet from what you describe is just to flatten it with some 800 or 1000 grade wet n dry with plenty of water to flatten the surface and then cut it to a hard semi gloss with some sort of car paint polish like T-Cut?

 

alternately blow it over with some satin black spray paint cut that to a semi gloss finish and then weather it by going thru to the flat black coating of the element underneath rather than going al the way thru to white metal?

 

to be honest though when it comes to AKs just about anything goes if you're happy with a particular effect then hunt around long enough and you're sure to find at least one real steel AK that matches it :)

Edited by snorkelman
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Although I'm a big fan of high FPS (live in American and me and the people I play with are all in the 400 FPS range), I'd be concerned with this power in $30 dollar Chinese gearboxes like in these new AKS-74Us, seems like these gearboxes are going to explode pretty soon. And this sucks because I was kind of hoping to get one of these guns and leaving them stock.

 

I believe the gearbox from this boyi will last long even with a spring upgrade (except for sp140/150 and up of course). Alot of ppl in my country and I, use china V3 mechboxes (cyma,jg). And these chinese made V3 mekboxs can handle upgrade springs well (up to 500++fps). I think 400fps won't be a problem for this gearbox, also considering that spring alone is not the only factor that affects muzzle velocity. :)

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I believe the gearbox from this boyi will last long even with a spring upgrade (except for sp140/150 and up of course).  Alot of ppl in my country and I, use china V3 mechboxes (cyma,jg).  And these chinese made V3 mekboxs can handle upgrade springs well (up to 500++fps).  I think 400fps won't be a problem for this gearbox, also considering that spring alone is not the only factor that affects muzzle velocity.  :)

 

 

 

Too bad that whole discussion is against forums rules :waggle:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

 

-G

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Revarnished the grips on my AKSU a few days ago & fitted a Guarder SP90 spring and Systema bearing spring guide. Grips turned out quite nicely I think (maybe a little too glossy, although the varnish was supposedly "semi-gloss"... I expect it will fade with wear though), the gun is putting out about 325fps with the new spring & spring guide.

 

Think I'll fit a tightbore barrel to this, I forgot to check while I had it apart though. Anyone know the barrel length used for this gun?

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Edited by Ad_
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Got mine croned today....390fps!!! Not good for us UK peoples, but i was able to put my VFC gearbox (Which has dropped to 270fps (WTF!)) in it over lunch and able to use this great gun. The battery is one of the worst clone ones i've handled, bad rate of fire and caused the gun to fire a low of 320 and a high of 390 :S

 

I'd write a full review in the review section but my intranet wont load it properly <_<

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Got mine croned today....390fps!!! Not good for us UK peoples, but i was able to put my VFC gearbox (Which has dropped to 270fps (WTF!)) in it over lunch and able to use this great gun. The battery is one of the worst clone ones i've handled, bad rate of fire and caused the gun to fire a low of 320 and a high of 390 :S

 

I'd write a full review in the review section but my intranet wont load it properly <_<

 

Mine chrono'ed at an average of 410fps so think yourself lucky :P Battery in mine is fine though and works really well (almost as good as my component-shop battery); it's one of the best cheapsoft batteries I've had so far...

 

There is no way the battery alone can affect the muzzle velocity though - only the rate of fire. The main factors affecting the power of an AEG are the spring and how good the seals are in the piston/cylinder assembly. With power varying as wildly as you say I'd strongly suggest stripping the gearbox and checking the piston/cylinder assembly.

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