Baddbaz Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Try lubricating the piston o rings and check nozzle for any hairline cracks , chipping , Have also seen cracked gearbox casings / bad quality springs cause similar issues As already mentioned , a spring that has not been decompressed for longish periods could also cause this .. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 I only shoot the rifle on semi, full auto is disabled, so to my knowledge the spring is as decompressed as it gets. I am using prome spring as well. Neither nozzle I have used has any apparent damage. the gearbox casing looks ok, no damage to it. I did actually swap my cylinder out to one I had laying around, it is ported though from a kwa cqr mod 2. FPS went from 300 to 330. I may have swapped the O-ring to accidentally, I don't know, they all look the same but yeah after that swap it did come up a bit.... ever hear of a cylinder wearing out? Link to post Share on other sites
Baddbaz Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 More likely an o ring drying out and loosing its seal on the piston ./ cylinder , regrease ( frog lube ) or try changing the o rings first and see if it solves it ,, Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 That kind of FPS loss is going to be piston head related 90% of the time. Check the piston head seal, possibly the cylinder head seal whilst you're at it. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 the piston head itself looks OK. the O-ring seems ok... isn't to stretchy, no deformities. The cylinder head seal seems solid, even threw on a few layers of ptfe tape to reinforce it. Where can I get new O-rings? Also, what is frog lube? O_o Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted December 17, 2014 Report Share Posted December 17, 2014 So I went to a local auto parts store today and found one O-ring that looked to be the perfect size, just a bit thinner. It has good compression by hand, but once assembled and shot I only had 250 fps. It would seem to me a hand done compression test isn't 100% full proof. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 I know I have brought this up before... but I never got a clear answer so here goes again... The rail that comes on the AUG civ versions, the grooves on the rail are to narrow to fit most optics, I have to grind them out to fit things like my eotech. Has anyone ever replaced the rail with a normal 20mm picatinny rail? I have been googling looking for a 8 inch rail to replace it with but I was hoping someone knows a good functioning product already. Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Odd, that's the exact opposite of most reports I've heard - the rails on the TM AUG "Civilian" seem to be 21mm wide, so they're too wide, not too *narrow*. They also have annoying things underneath in certain places, so that scopes can't clamp onto certain places along the rail, which have to be filed off if you want the entire length of the rail to be usable. I'm sure I've posted pics of this at some point in this thread... Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Yes there are spots on the sides as well that protrude in such a way that will get in the way and limits where you can put things, so that is another issue. But I find as long as you place it in the right spot you can move around them, the issue is the grooves on the rail that go horizontally aren't wide enough to fit most pieces.... I can take pictures of what I did to remedy this and post them, it worked, but it is not pretty and so far I only did it to one spot. Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Ah, I think I get what you mean now. I've never had a problem with the spacing of the 'ribs' and haven't heard anyone report such a problem until now I'd be interested to see your images of the problem and solution. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 3, 2015 Report Share Posted February 3, 2015 That is the problem everyone talks about. That is how I fixed it. In this picture you can see the issue I had and the solution I used, took a dremel to the groove and opened it up a bit. Having another issue though... Any of you ever have the trigger in the gearbox where out? like the plastic parts. I had the spring that pulls the contact piece back break a bit ago, replaced it. Since then the trigger makes a loud click when you pull it, and that contact piece is able to jump up a bit. Seems it has gotten to the point that when I pull the trigger the contact is able to move away, not giving the motor enough time to spin the gearbox and shoot. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 Could be a simple case of putting too stiff a spring causing the switch to reset prematurely. Also check your contacts if they haven't been eaten up as is the case when using high voltage batteries and no MOSFET. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 16, 2015 Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 Well I do use a mosfet and the trigger contacts are OK... The spring being to strong was a possibility... but either way I just bought a whole new gearbox. The old one was 7 years old and from being taken apart and put together so much I managed to strip a second screw on it, so I decided time for a new shell, which will come with a new trigger to just have to wire in the mosfet, swap the gears, spring, etc..... Oh and the new shell has a QD spring Link to post Share on other sites
kevdon75 Posted May 8, 2015 Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 Can you get flash mags for AUGs I have been looking but no luck. Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 The mags with lights in for tracer BBs? No, never seen any for the AUG. You'd need either a barrel-mounted tracer unit or an M4 mag conversion.Guess which one would be easier...? Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted May 9, 2015 Report Share Posted May 9, 2015 I think he means the pull cord winding mags. No non for the Aug. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 So for awhile my AUG dmr was a a1 model and recently decided to switch to an a3-esque type set up so I could mount a better optic. Now with the ris style I have found that the ris just floats around the outer barrel so I was thinking... to further solidify the set up and remove vibrations/movement I wanted to stabilize the outer barrel with the RIS. Anyone ever tried this before?Edit: hehe... so I started going back through the pages and found someone has done this before... AND I WAS THE FIRST ONE TO RESPOND ..... though the part he used to stabilize the barrel is 3d printed and I do not have access to such a thing.... Link to post Share on other sites
imprzaWRC Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 I did it by stabilizing the front end of the barrel to the ris. But the problem lies in the design of the AUG (floating hop up to a floating gearbox). In my tests, it doesn't add any significant improvement, but it is less wobbly when handling it. Sent from my SM-N910H using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Ah yes you are the one that I was referring to in my prior post. I see that post is on shapeway for around $13.... I may grab it just for a more solid way to stabilize it. As for the floating gearbox and barrel.... I tried to stabilize the barrel in the upper receiver but I found it didn't allow it to line up to the gearbox as nicely. The gearbox/barrel is pretty solid in the stock I find.... not much motion... but if you could dampen vibrations I feel like it would make a difference. I tried sorbothane to reduce the sound and vibrations... I can't say if it helped vibrations at all but it did help quiet it.... I find the AUG rather noisy. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 What is the best way people have found to stabilize and reduce vibration in the barrel system? I tried one layer of ptfe tape on the inner barrel before inserting it into the outer barrel but when I attempted to insert it into the outer it bunched up and the barrel was stuck. I have tried HSA shim kit as well to no real avail. Link to post Share on other sites
imprzaWRC Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 If I rememberred correctly, it's a 2-parts outer barrel with differing diameters (mine's JG AU3G). Had a combination of 1 layer of masking tape for the front and 1 layer of ptfe tape for the back. Sent from my SM-N910H using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 when I tried to put the ptfe tape on the barrel it wouldn't even slide in... I guess I will have to try again... Masking tape towards the front though? the gap in the front section is larger... definitely worth a try. Also weird occurrence figured I will just throw this in.... JG AUG 375 w/ .32g bb.... 509mm 6.03 prome barrel that has been lapped using HSA kit. My grouping was overall kind of terrible. I swapped to a 509mm stock aug barrel (6.08 I believe), no lap just cleaned. My grouping greatly improved out to 200 feet+..... My fps also went from 375... to 370? a 5 fps loss with .32g bb? to add to that I then used .28s and found I did 415 with the 6.03 barrel and 400 with the stock aug barrel. Link to post Share on other sites
imprzaWRC Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 The lost in fps is due to the wider bore diameter of the stock inbar. More air volume escaping pass the bb as opposed to a tighter inbar. Sent from my SM-N910H using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Jibbity Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 I use scotch tape on the end of my inner barrel to stabilize it in the outer. It slides nicely without bunching as long as you cut it nice and clean, aka use scissors instead of the dispenser. As far as the differences in the barrels go, it is really hard to say as there are a number of factors that can impact accuracy. What other variables are involved? Bucking, nub, etc... Are they Rhopped? Was the lapping done correctly? Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Barrels tested normal hop and flat hop using the same modify flat hop bucking, same hop up unit, and all parts involved, only thing that changed is the barrel. As for the lapping, I followed hunterseekers written instructions and video to the T. cleaned the barrel, did crown enhancer from 20 microns to .5 microns, cleaning it thoroughly between each step, then to the full barrel lap again 20 to .5 cleaning between each step again. Also used the crox solution after the crown and after the full barrel lap. I also had the prome barrel R-hopped prior to the lapping, the grouping was poor hence why I lapped it. Which it improved but it is not as good as this 6.08 brass barrel so I'm at a bit of a loss as to the logic here. Link to post Share on other sites
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