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The Mosfet Thread


crackisbad

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Got 3 of the IRL2203N Mosfets today, Still need to get the resistors though,

 

Couple of questions though

Whats the best way to wire it?  Some guides say to cut off the Drain pin and use a bolt through the hole others say to solder to the Drain pin? 

Whats the best size to use for the big resistor? Some guides say to use 22K, some say 30K and one says 2.2K?

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Soldering all the way. The bolt method is both bulky and a bad electrical connection.

Here's my effort before putting on some heat shrink to encapsulate the whole thing:

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/161764-the-mosfet-thread/page-28&do=findComment&comment=2490788

 

I used 30kOhm and 100Ohm, ¼Watt resistors for my setup, works a treat.

 

Tom

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  • 1 month later...

Got the mosfet built and put into my G36c, I used the IRL2203N mosfet and a 22K for the big resistor,

with all the other upgrades its firing at 19 rps and the trigger response has increased :)

 

Here are a couple of pics

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww107/bluestripe93/DSCF3075_zps572ad3ea.jpg

 

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww107/bluestripe93/DSCF3082_zps42939a69.jpg

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Well done on completing the project, however, I have to criticise your work.

The soldering is very poor and should not be patchy with gaps, peaks and troughs. It should be a slim, all enveloping capsule of solder completely covering all components.

You can cut the legs right back to save space. The contact point between the leg of the Mosfet and the resistor, at minimum, needs to be no less than the cross section of the resistor wire. That's small.

Heat shrink is meant to be an electrical insulator. You have it covering the resistor body but not the important bit, the legs. Use some heatsink all over the resistor right up to the solder joints.

Heatshirink all possible electrical conductors.

 

Tom.

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The 1st one is always rough, the 2nd one is better! I should try and get some pics of what I did with my G36. I soldered the motor wires coming directly down (so I could fit heat shrink) and then bent it in the shape of a sock to run it back up one side and looped the other around the base and so they both rang up the same side of the hand grip.

 

Alpha Eco wire has a thinner casing than silicone (2.06 mm vs 3+ mm) and still quite flexible - airlab appear to have it if you wish to try some out.

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  • 4 months later...

hi all,

 

I have been looking into this thread with allot of info about mosfett i really want to make my own but there are some really big diffrences in used parts. Are there people that actually tried some of those self made mosfett's and actually work? If so which one did you try and succeed. Sorry for the question but i like to ry things myself before spending big money :) ..

 

 

cheers

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  • 1 month later...

Hi all, been out of airsoft for quite some time and was hoping someone may be able to recommend a suitable off the shelf mosfet for what I need.  

 

I have a prowin V2 gearbox and it always overruns slightly after every shot, now the last time I messed around with it was well over a 18 months ago but I remember trying all sorts with the cutover lever and trigger assembly but failed to sort the issue and came to the conclusion I needed a more advanced mosfet setup.

 

Any recommendations? just needs something that is functional.

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  • 10 months later...

I am old school and still using Infected mosfet since there inception.
 

All my AEG's, which my son is using now have this mosfet.

I still have the original Extreme Fire Panther and Cheetah and only use them for my Semi Locked AEG based DMR.

IMGP3024.jpg

 

My son used my AEG last Sunday and the Infected Mosfet didn't turn him down.

We primed if first in the AM game with 7.4V 20C lipoly, and used 11.1V 20C Lipo in the afternoon.

 

And they still works. 

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  • 3 months later...

no. it's a common issue with V2 gearboxes however it should be lessened by the fet. Typically it's because power is lost before the cycle has been completed. ie the piston is almost all the way back before power is lost but there isn't enough ampage from the battery/motor doesnt have enough torque to pull the piston that little bit more to release it.

It could be a fet issue, a motor issue or you not pulling the trigger all the way to the "bite" point (again, the mosfet unit should prevent this last one assuming that the fet is the standard type not the naff plug n play type)

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no. it's a common issue with V2 gearboxes however it should be lessened by the fet. Typically it's because power is lost before the cycle has been completed. ie the piston is almost all the way back before power is lost but there isn't enough ampage from the battery/motor doesnt have enough torque to pull the piston that little bit more to release it.

 

It could be a fet issue, a motor issue or you not pulling the trigger all the way to the "bite" point (again, the mosfet unit should prevent this last one assuming that the fet is the standard type not the naff plug n play type)

 

The mosfet is an airfet with braking. I dont know if this is related but now on full auto it seems to fire at different speeds when I do bursts of fire I dont think something is jelling quite right in the gearbox?

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