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WE G39C GBB

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lol, in your own country, cause if it comes from another continent it will always cost that much for shipping alone...

 

or try to find it somewhere in the EU.

 

but I am afraid you will have to buy it in one of the Asian shops.

tip: buy it with something else...than you can justify the shipping cost....

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If like eHobbyAsia and Ebaybanned they used Airmail, then shipping would be no more than $5!

 

The shipping charges form companies other than the above two are unreasonable at best and absurd at worst. I guess I can live with WE trades on the G39C.

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You can get the HK G36C sticker with $6.50 shipping, just could take forever like EBB...

 

If you like I can order one for you, as im getting a set of gears ASAP.

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LOL, no offence, but to me the most funny question in airsoft tech is: "how to remove the flashider?"

Why is it funny? because its so easy to do + its so commonly asked....

 

I was even so afraid of removing it because of all the topics and questions and heads up about it, that I didnt even know if it would work.

 

But now that I done it, I can say to you planeman, its the most easy "job" to do in airsoft :)

One word: leverage

I have 2 rifles now, and I removed them at the same way, an dit took me just about 30 seconds to losen it. No heat used, no warm water used nothing of all that.

Just plain simple common sence: leverage!!

I used a screw driver, that was thin and long enough, placed it diametrical thru flashhider and just turned......

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Anyone else finding the first 2-3 shots are VASTLY over powered compared to the rest?

 

Still getting the first 2 or 3 shooting about 380, then the rest well under 350. (averaging about 330)

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Used to find that with the Tanaka sniper rifles.

 

I think it's something to do with the speed of gas expansion within the magazine/the shape of the gas chamber in the mag.

 

Skirmish solution? Load your mags, and fire the first couple of shots into a tree/bush/n00b. Rest of the shots were usually ok.

 

Ben.

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Its more an issue with chronoing at the beginning of the day.

 

Had 2 shots over and the rest (about 8 I believe) were under 350.

With a little discussion between marshal's they let it through.

 

So, today did a little experiment with my own chrono (which is accurate to my sites chrono`s).

 

.2`s were quite inconsistent, besides the 2 powerful shots I was looking at a spread between 310-340FPS.

Quite the inconsistent bugger.

 

However, load it up with .25`s and consistency vastly improves, they were going 310 +/- 6fps.

.28`s and it improves again to around 300 +/- 3fps.

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I should of worded it a little better instead of writing one sentence. I know how to remove flash hiders but it seems this one you need to remove the barrel assembly via nut before removing the flash hider. I cant seem to remove the barrel with just regular tools. Is there a way to loosen the nut to remove the barrel?

 

Mike

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Its more an issue with chronoing at the beginning of the day.

 

Had 2 shots over and the rest (about 8 I believe) were under 350.

With a little discussion between marshal's they let it through.

 

So, today did a little experiment with my own chrono (which is accurate to my sites chrono`s).

 

.2`s were quite inconsistent, besides the 2 powerful shots I was looking at a spread between 310-340FPS.

Quite the inconsistent bugger.

 

However, load it up with .25`s and consistency vastly improves, they were going 310 +/- 6fps.

.28`s and it improves again to around 300 +/- 3fps.

 

Had the same issue with my M14, changed the hopup rubber for a Soft Prometheus VSR sealing bucking and the problem disappeared. Since the gun was shooting so good i didn't changed the bucking to the stock one again and check if the problem reappeared though.

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I should of worded it a little better instead of writing one sentence. I know how to remove flash hiders but it seems this one you need to remove the barrel assembly via nut before removing the flash hider. I cant seem to remove the barrel with just regular tools. Is there a way to loosen the nut to remove the barrel?

 

Mike

 

nope, you also dont need to remove the whole barrel assembly, outer barrel or whatever.

 

the flashhider is a part on its own, screwed on to the outer barrel, thats it.....

 

lol dont make it complicated when its easy :)

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I dunno if its just the lighting in those most recent pictures, but those mags look terrible

 

yeah I know, its cause the paper is on the outside, it should be on the inside

 

 

SO, a tutorial of the dissasembly of a WE G39c magazine would be helpful and nice for us all.

I will share a pdf file (if I find it back) of the magazine bullet prints, so you all can have that look (but better than mine)

Than we all could have cool looking magazines with the prints on the INSIDE :)tongue.gif

 

Anybody knows how to dissasemble those magazines....?

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Its more an issue with chronoing at the beginning of the day.

 

Had 2 shots over and the rest (about 8 I believe) were under 350.

With a little discussion between marshal's they let it through.

 

So, today did a little experiment with my own chrono (which is accurate to my sites chrono`s).

 

.2`s were quite inconsistent, besides the 2 powerful shots I was looking at a spread between 310-340FPS.

Quite the inconsistent bugger.

 

However, load it up with .25`s and consistency vastly improves, they were going 310 +/- 6fps.

.28`s and it improves again to around 300 +/- 3fps.

 

 

Had the same problem with my AWSS M4. Chronoing at the beginning of the skirm with .2 give me the next results :

269 fps

371 fps

361 fps

Replica taken aside by the organisation... (in Belgium there's a 350 fps rule with a 10 fps marge...)

I thought that it was my NPAS was broken, but if you guys have the same problem with the "open bolt" G39 and M14, it could be a "problem" with the mags... Good to know that I can't fully fill my mags with gas...

 

BTW I suppose that you all are using propane/green gas to get these results and that no NPAS system has been installed?

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As far as I can tell removing the shell is as easy as previous mags.

Slip off the bottom part of the mag.

Remove the single screw holding the shell to the innards and push the innards out. Voilà.

 

Not done it myself (no need to) but that is all there appears to be.

 

Installed a Firefly Hard bucking also, consistency has improved and hop is pretty sensitive to change now.

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Has anyone taken down the mags far enough to see if they can fit into RS shells?

I've got a bud who keeps asking me if he can use those snazzy new Magpul Pmags for G36's.

 

 

Are those out yet? I've seen photo's, but can't find them in any shops.... Personally I'm hoping WE comes out with some 10-rounders (the shorter SL8 magazines).

 

Fired about 5 magazines or so through the gun today at a target in my basement I had set up (~20 feet away). Words cannot describe how fun this gun is to shoot. Was able to use a Tokyo Marui speed-loader to great effect (w/ the GBB attachment added onto it of course).

 

Distance wasn't long enough to need to adjust the hop-up, but the thing was shooting lasers the entire time. Also, never had a failure to lock back on the last round.

 

Thus far, I've got to say I'm extremely happy with this purchase.

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I seem to have problems in automatic mode, the hammer gets stuck behind and I have to recock the gun a lot for it to shoot again.....

 

in semi, its perfect

Edited by Riko

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The problem that you're experiencing is due to you "cocking' the gun while the selector is in full-auto. My terminology is going to be way off here, but I'll do the best I can do illustrate what I mean:

 

(it helps to have the lower disassembled and in front of you so you can see exactly what I'm talking about)

 

-Basically, when the selector is set to "semi", there's a little notch on the back of the hammer that positively engages on a corresponding notched part within the fire-control-group (FCG).

When the hammer is cocked whilst the selector is on "semi", you can move the selector to any setting and the gun will function correctly.

-However, when the gun is "cocked" while the selector is on "auto", the notched-piece within the FCG is pulled further back, and the notch on the back of the hammer isn't able to engage with it. This instead causes the hammer to catch on the bottom of the plate held together between the selector-switches. In order to re-seat the hammer, all you need to do is change the selector from "auto" to "semi" (you should hear a small pop, that's the hammer being let forward from off the plate).

 

 

*I'm going to attempt to scan the parts-diagram from the manual in and use specific parts-numbers to better show what I explained ^

 

If you need further clarification on anything just ask.

Edited by -Clover-

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