Lone_Bullet Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hi. I noticed my hammer drags along the underside of the cylinder/loading nozzle. Both my KJWorks MEU and 1911 do so, resulting in a sluggish return of said part. I experience no noticeable performance loss from it, but I have replaced the typical red loading nozzle 3 times now over 4 years of ownership. The CO2 makes it burst/crack, but perhaps the drag lines of the hammer weaken it? Is this known and normal? Does TM suffer from the same "fault"? I could fix it by adding material to the cam on the hammer thus positioning the hammer 1mm further down but I don't have the skill to do so reliably. Could a nova ( or so.. ) hammer fix this? Any comment? Link to post Share on other sites
Imperator Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 That is an interesting issue...I have my KJW 1911 for a couple of months now and I wasn't aware of that. I'll definitely be paying more attention to that from now on. Link to post Share on other sites
Korppi Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 I have it too in both of mine. Seems like a design flaw or then intentional to make the slide travel slower a tiny bit. Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted January 2, 2015 Report Share Posted January 2, 2015 Check the leaf spring .. Sometimes the leaf spring slips from it's possition.Reinstall it and will fix the issue.Wolf Link to post Share on other sites
vilerk Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Does your 1911 have a steel or pot metal hammer? I've noticed that the KP06's hammer(steel) has a full cock notch that is deeper than a TM's, allowing it to sit higher, while the KJW and TM sears have identical length "hooks". Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Sounds like a misalignment of the hammer or sear. On every 1911 I've worked on the hammer is held in the cocked position at a level where it doesn't touch the cylinder, it should only touch the raised bump on the BBU, raised to ensure that it cocks properly. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Can you check if your hammer and sear pins are intact? They broke on my Detonics, granted they were plastic, but worked just the same except it brought the hammer engagement higher by about a millimeter and enough to rub against the nozzle. Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted January 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Wolfgeorge: Leafsping is installed fine, oddly enough. Reinstalled it just to be sure on both pistols. Still persists. Vilerk: Both are pot metal. But I definitely thought of the same thing. It's why I thought of adding material. ED-SKaR: Perhaps KJW's tolerances are off then, since both have it and had it from the day I got them ( all broken nozzles have the drag marks ) But I just thought of something: Perhaps the 'ramp' on the BBU should sling the hammer down for a long enough time to the hammer doesn't touch the nozzle/cylinder but the uprated hammerspring for CO2 prevents this for the KJW? Korppi, do you have a stock TM or WE hammer spring? I can't really test my theory. Problem is, the hammersping pressure could possibly not have the tension to open a CO2 rated mag valve. RC: checking now. potmetal alignment holes could have worn out. [Edit] Holes and pins seem fine with a minimal but normal wear. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 Maybe a metal loading nozzle then? Unless you can confirm it's really with the hammer's dimensions and not the frame itself then the same thing is gonna happen to pretty much any other hammer and sear out there. That or rebuild the notch or sear with sheet metal to raise it a bit. Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted January 3, 2015 Report Share Posted January 3, 2015 You could try sanding down the part of the hammer that touches the cylinder, although you might end up wit a gun that doesn't cock properly and slamfires if you mess it up...Or you could throw it away and get yourself a TM... But I just thought of something: Perhaps the 'ramp' on the BBU should sling the hammer down for a long enough time to the hammer doesn't touch the nozzle/cylinder... That's not a thing. Link to post Share on other sites
Korppi Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Korppi, do you have a stock TM or WE hammer spring? I can't really test my theory. Problem is, the hammersping pressure could possibly not have the tension to open a CO2 rated mag valve. I mean mine are both KJW. An older Blue nozzle 1911 and a KP07. Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Huh... Installed UAC BBU and nozzle, both Alu. Works fine.. Just need a stronger nozzle return spring I think. And MAN, what a kickback! Which I don't understand, since it is a much lighter assembly . Link to post Share on other sites
Imperator Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 Lone_Bullet, can I ask were you got it? Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted January 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 Both GBB at airsoftclub.gr a couple of years back The rest at AirsoftMasterpiece.com, at the recommendation of Knuckles, a Cali ( I think ) based Hicapa Tech. Link to post Share on other sites
Imperator Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 Both GBB at airsoftclub.gr a couple of years back The rest at AirsoftMasterpiece.com, at the recommendation of Knuckles, a Cali ( I think ) based Hicapa Tech. Thank you! Link to post Share on other sites
SuperCriollo Posted January 8, 2015 Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 You can strech you nozzle return spring by running a drill bit, screw driver or Allen key through it, and gently pulling both ends. It works like a charm to fix old nozzle springs. I learned this trick from LaZouche xD Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 While I can value this trick for a quick fix, i tend to stick to my main brain malfunction: buying stuf new that was engineered for it instead of a easy mod. Im like that Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted May 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 UPDATE: I have a PDI 1911 hammer and hammer sear in the mail, since I wasn't aware HiCapa hammer and hammer sears don't fit 1911's. While for the moment the MEU shoots just fine, it's still dragging the hammer against the BBU/nozzle. I hope these new steel sears fin it, since after inspection I noticed wear on both original parts. PDI is also TM spec, not KWJ spec. So I hope that since TM don't have a dragging hammer, TM spec parts might cure mt KJW. RenegadeCow: I only now noticed you yellow 'hint' ^^. You funny man you. I love TM, but TM isn't built for CO2 and we both now TM 1911's are a big no-no in winter. That's my reason for going KJW. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 My yellow what now??? Link to post Share on other sites
daloonie Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 I have TM pistols and also suffer from dragging hammer on 1 of my Hi-Capa 4.3 frames. Sear and leaf spring aren't misaligned. And not worn. What I see as the problem is the sear and hammer locking tabs isn't locking the hammer far enough back. Bending the leaf spring on the sear isn't going to move the locking position of the hammer. The issue though is only on one 4.3 frame with stock hammer, but not on another 4.3 frame with a 5.1 hammer. So the hammer is likely the culprit in my case. Solution would probably be to change the sear and more likely, the hammer with a third party one. Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted May 23, 2015 Report Share Posted May 23, 2015 I love TM, but TM isn't built for CO2 and we both now TM 1911's are a big no-no in winter. That's my reason for going KJW. My TM runs at -18°c (air temp) with green gas, I don't see the need for CO2. Point is that I've checked all my 1911s (3 1911 1 hicappa, one parts gun) and with the exception of the frankensteinian parts gun they all hold the hammer clear of the nozzle as the slide cycles. The parts gun sear has been modified (poorly) and that's why it sits higher on that one, and rubs the nozzle. You need a well made hammer and sear set that match. The important part is that they match, so that they hold the hammer in the right place, there is only a few mm of play between the lowest point the cocking bur pushes the hammer down to and the height of the nozzle inside the BBU. Link to post Share on other sites
jv83 Posted May 24, 2015 Report Share Posted May 24, 2015 Had the same problem with a hi-capa. The sear and hammer were Worn down. Got a davidson custom set instead. Worked wonders. Also much easier to use steel for crisp trigger pull. Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 What is the cheapest replacement hammer for a KJW 1911? Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Order a new kjworks hammer from kjworks. Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Order a new kjworks hammer from kjworks. Do they have a email? Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.