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Wooly_Booly

WE TA 2015, P90 review

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NEEEEEEEEEECRO

Got one of these in for a few fixes, got everything sorted bar two issues:

1) The internal gas tank will vent out of the top when you change magazines

2) One of the magazines is leaking out of the outlet valve and nothing I've tried so far has fixed it

Does anyone have any ideas?

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1) The coupling valve (gun end) isn't seating well (probably from being mashed). Take the valve out and lightly ream the hole it sits in to give it more wiggle room.

2) The coupling valve (mag end) and its o-ring has very tight tolerances sitting in its brass sub assembly and if it shrinks just a little you get that persistent hiss. What I've found to be a surefire solution is building up the diameter of the recess for the o-ring with super glue. I put enough glue so that the lower meniscus (while still wet) is around 1/3 the depth of the pocket. I apply the glue while it's vertical in the chuck of a drill and slowly spin it for the glue to even itself out. The hard part is removing it from the chuck without disturbing the  glue or you could keep it propped up in the drill until it cures.

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9 hours ago, renegadecow said:

1) The coupling valve (gun end) isn't seating well (probably from being mashed). Take the valve out and lightly ream the hole it sits in to give it more wiggle room.

2) The coupling valve (mag end) and its o-ring has very tight tolerances sitting in its brass sub assembly and if it shrinks just a little you get that persistent hiss. What I've found to be a surefire solution is building up the diameter of the recess for the o-ring with super glue. I put enough glue so that the lower meniscus (while still wet) is around 1/3 the depth of the pocket. I apply the glue while it's vertical in the chuck of a drill and slowly spin it for the glue to even itself out. The hard part is removing it from the chuck without disturbing the  glue or you could keep it propped up in the drill until it cures.

You legend. Absolutely spot on with both fixes.

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I noticed that mine has slower rof and less kick even with new nozzle. When I do the nozzle check I can feel the resistance but also the air going out at the pin holding the nozzle spring. Could that be the problem? I don't have any leak otherwise.

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I know I'm asking a lot here but I have a weird problem. The gun works fine if I'm shooting it empty but if use a loaded magazine the gun goes like this:

1. shots bb, weak recoil - 2. no bb, strong recoil - 3. shots bb, weak recoil - 4. no bb, strong recoil, etc. 

I checked if there is any misalignment but I couldn't find any. Tried different BBs and when I used lighter ones the recoil was still weak but it feed constantly at least.

Curiously I put one BB in the chamber and shot it without magazine and it gave me the same weak recoil.

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Sorry for the late update. I have tried multiple floating valves and spring and it would keep doing the same thing so I bought a new bolt. With it the gun finally shoots normal there are differences in the look but I think the fault was that the pin that holds the nozzle in the bolt became somewhat loose(and the hole it goes into) after hammering it in and out a lot.

Similar thing happened in my WE MP7 which was showing syptoms of very fast cooldown. The bolt was leaking at the nozzle holding pin hole(even tough the pin is all the way in). Just a thing to watch out for if you take the gun apart a lot.

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Playing around with my P90 to see if I can get it to run nicely for CQB, I'm wondering if it's possible to disable full-auto?

Looking at the sears I'm thinking of grinding some material off part number 17: the spot thats in contact with part number 24 (that's also beeing smoothed for a lighter trigger pull). If I remove just enough material, so that nr 17 doesn't get pushed far enough for full-auto, I can put the fire selector on full-auto and it'll just fire one shot, right? Or am I looking at things wrong?

Thanks!

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That won't work. #17 is the semi auto sear and is pushed back far enough to clear the hammer in semi and full. What happens in full auto is #20 disconnector is also pushed back so it won't catch the hammer. Removing the protrusion on #24 that pushes #20 will keep it firing in semi-auto no matter how deeply you pull the trigger. But it would be easier to just add material to the selector so that semi and full limits trigger pull to the same distance and is easily reversed.

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Thank you for clearing that up! :)

I've tried adding material to the selector and triggerbar places, but I still get 2 or 3 shot burst on semi (sometimes 1 shot, but mostly short bursts).

I've checked the trigger parts and part #25 is bent a little bit (but not as much as other users have shown in this topic), could that be the issue?

Also; I'm running it on hpa, and it cycles pretty fast, maybe to fast to engage the sears after just on shot?

Thanks again!

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There's the possibility that the sear or disconnector is beginning to conk out. I remember mine doing that until I eventually replaced it with a steel set. 

Edited by renegadecow
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Yes, I figured it's best to go for a steel set also, and go from there. As it seems the 'sweet spot' for semi or full-auto/burst is getting smaller every round fired :D

Thanks again for the help, I'll update once I have things sorted!

(I'm building a backpack-bb-feeder thingy into the magazine to avoid having to build high-caps or dragging around multiple expensive/heavy mags. If it works I'll share it here.)

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Allright, installed the steel trigger parts: works like a charm! Way better trigger pull and no more burst issues on semi. Looking back I think my trigger was buggy from day one, as this is much much better.

Newly created problem while testing: the nozzle broke.. One side/wing of part #109 gave out, making pin #117 slide out a bit, tearing out the pin-holes on #109 and #110. Have to replace the nozzle or maybe try a fix with new drilled holes and glue it together.

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