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NEW KJW/GUARDER CUSTOM CZ75 SP01


CZFan

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much nice as borat would say. So much better than oem kj. Trades are very deep, much deeper than on aplus' previous etchings. I wonder if that's due to them actually putting more effort or changing something in the production process.

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Works very well with CO2.  DA trigger pull is very heavy and grainy, but once you get going it's all very smooth.  If I were Non-Ex I'd take it apart and polish something, but as it is...  Very good initial groupings, shooting slightly high and right.  No complaints.  The manual doesn't cover the tiny grub-screw at the base of the trigger (visible in photo #2 above) where you can adjust pull travel.

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like so:

 

you pry the left one out all the way, then rotate the right one to disengage the notches and pull it out of the frame. Be careful of the ident and spring that will likely fly out never to be found again. I suggest doing this in a plastic bag so you can catch them.

 

also its very easy to scratch the finish. alternatively you can use a pair of pliers and some tape to protect the finish and just grab the ridge of the safety and pull.. but still, one slip and the paint is gone. trick is to pry out as close to the pivot as possible.

 

Gp8oB3e.jpg

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Very nice. Im already bookmarking parts despite me saying I don't want another p09 like project....

 

I never use DA on KJW CO2 "ready" guns. I actually disable it if I get around to it. KJ's trigger bar is soft alloy and it bends and chips away with the strain of DA

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Hmm so I had some spares. CZ P09 guide rod is a direct fit. Throw that horrible plastic glock thing out of there, even if its accurate (real one ships with it too). For best results you either need to drill a pilot hole in the rod or remove the nub on the hop up chamber. Either way would work.

 

Pro tip. If you have one of these you will notice the barrel is a *badgeress* to get out. And the plastic rod has to be bent to come in/out and to facilitate the barrel removal. Well.. just unbolt the blowback housing. It's 1 screw and the nozzle spring is captive so you wont have to worry about that. With the bbu out, its a snap.

 

9NUOHwa.jpg

 

iE8tpLh.jpg

 

forgot to mention. that's the polished stainless guide rod from Cajun gun works. I kept the plastic buffer since the spring is too weak without it. Im going to dig around for a suitable 1911 one. Those seem to be my  go to springs for KJ  CZs lately

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Some guy posted here:

http://www.wargamehk.com/cgf/viewthread.php?tid=153998&page=5#pid1221326

 

4835F7BF-7472-4739-BC5F-F345EFCF47F2_1.j

 

He says RS sights fit without modding the dovetails, the guy also says a minor mod would help DA reliability later in the page.

 

Hey CZfan.  Looking on the internet, the RS rear sight cuts seem to be different for the 75, the SP-01, the Shadow, and the Tactical Sports, as they specify fit for one or other of the models.  Also, there are different designs of adjustable rear sight.  What do you think the guy in the thread fitted to his?

 

p_100016365_2.jpg

 

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Also, what exactly is the function of the two small hex-head screws in the rear sight of the KJ Shadow?  I tried removing them, and the rear sight didn't budge at all?  Does the BBU need to come out too, in order to remove it?

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You need SP/SHADOW sights. early 75s use an LPA cut. The tactical sport uses another cut.

 

There are overlaps. Late model 75s use the same as the sp and shadow, though those are now pretty much the standard cut and referred to as 75 cut.

 

P9/p7 (aka omega platform) use their own.  Not sure about the rami. never played with one.

 

The screws are set screws (p07 like). They push the sight into the dovetail securing it. To pop the sight out, loosen the screws a few turns, secure the slide in a vise and using something like a tape wrapped WIDE punch/rod hammer it out. It is real gun tight on there almost so use caution or you will dent the surface (if you don't care for it just hammer it out with a basic punch).  Insertion is the same way, starting from the side you hammered it out from.

 

The BBU does not need to come out. There is no interaction between the slide and sight other than the dovetail cut.

 

hard to say what he fitted, as I generally don't pay much attention to that (since what i'll end up using will be different). Don't forget to check out official CZ sights. They have a bunch as well, not only the aftermarket shops like Cajun and czc. Actually most of the time CZC resells CZUB sights.... sometimes they modify them a bit. So do check the official store for more designs.

 

 

 

yNI2cCF.jpg

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Thanks!  Enormously helpful.

 

KJ really seem to have taken the RS inspiration to heart.  The checkered rubber grips that come with the KJ look very very like the rubber grips on CZ sites.  Wondering if you've checked on the threading of the grip screws.

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I just did for you. CZ is 3.37MM DIA (off size, could be SAE and not even metric, though I want to say its for a  3.5MM DIA hole) and KJW is metric 3MM screw (2.87 actual DIA of screw). Pitch is the same. they will screw into the real frame but too loose to tighten.

 

Length is the same

 

Now we just have to make sure that 1. ratech makes a steel set for it and 2. they don't *fruitcage* it up like with the p09.

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Fitment of RS SP-01 Shadow style metal grips.

 

1. The top pin (that can be seen in the photo below) needs to have both tips cut/ground off.  As supplied, the pin protrudes both sides of the grip frame, and engages with locating holes in the back sides of the rubber grips supplied by KJ.  With the more radically sloped/shaped RS metal grips, this pin is only just covered by the grips, and obviously these grips have no corresponding hole on their underside.

 

2. RS grips are not an absolutely perfect fit.  On one side, the hole in the grip aligned pretty well with the threaded hole in the mainspring housing.  On the other side, I thought I might have to ease the hole in the grip to get the screw to go through, but with a bit of jiggling it worked.  (If you can get the screw to engage with the threading, as you continue to screw it will pull the grip into alignment.)

 

3. Confirmed that the RS screws supplied with the RS grips are a different size (larger) and don't fit KJ threading.

 

 

8D4EB024-A85E-4AF4-872A-56537AD1E686.jpg

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Yep that top pin.. same as with all KJ 75 series. I've always taken a hobby knife to the grips and carved a bit on the inside to make them work. But I see how that wont really work too well with metal ones.

 

Mine are enroute. What color you went with?

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Some more less-than-perfect photos.  Without flash, the grips come out looking dark bronze, rather than olive, which is what they are.  In the second one, you can just see half of the head of that top pin peaking out from behind the side of the grip.

 

IMG_2871_zps6cgk9vcr.jpg

 

IMG_2872_zps4yp7bkj9.jpg

 

Lubrication continues to ooze from around the two safeties...

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Not a fan of the pistol but I certainly appreciate what you guys are doing here :D

 

Could they not have gone with a more BOOOORING screw for those grips, lol :P

 

If the RS screws are bigger at least you can then drill and tap the hole in the gun to use RS screws if you wish.

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I went with purple.

 

And while I wait, old school CZ97 trigger. Fitment is a bit like the P09.. you need to remove the KJ inserts, drill some holes out, press in some new inserts etc. Couldn't put it together because I was 1 drill bit size short.  I have it, but no way I can find it. So I ordered another one. Meanwhile, tested it and it works with my punch pin :) As usual CZ trigger spring will be put in as well.   Those are almost drop in, you just need to clip one of the prongs shorter

 

JJ10wKO.jpg

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