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Star M249 Para Examined...


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Ethier thats really big or really small, I cant tell

 

A 4000mah, 7.4v is lower on power (compared to a 9.6v), but got a big gas tank. Li-po's have the added benefit of being lighter and more compact, too.

 

I use an 11.1 v Li-Poly pack in all my SAWs and so far no problems. Been doing it for a while now.

 

Oooooo....me likey. Just to clarify, does that include the Star SAW? If so, about how many rounds have you put through? Stock spring or higher?

 

My concern is ripping up the piston with the high voltage--the rate of fire is incredible, but the gears are whirring so fast that the piston/spring barely have enough time to release the compression before the gears come back to compress the spring again. That's how my AUG piston was stripped--I went full auto for too long, which must mean the piston was still moving forward when the gear engaged to pull it back.

 

I wouldn't mind taking my chances and replacing a piston every now and then, but it sounds like finding a suitable piston that fits this gun might be hard to find (I have to read the threads again to see what others have said about replacement pistons).

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had a no feeding issue today i think due to cold weather was around 15 degres. shot fine right out of the car, but 30 min in the cold it just would not feed and when it did only shot 50 feet wired i wonder what this cold issue is? great gun just not for cold weather

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It's very weird this cold weather problem. I have read a few cases with this now, yet I do not have this problem myself and I live in Norway were I play in -3°C - 5°C.

 

Maybe my upgraded spring helps :P (dont know how it could, but except from my spring everything is stock on my gun)

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had a no feeding issue today i think due to cold weather was around 15 degres. shot fine right out of the car, but 30 min in the cold it just would not feed and when it did only shot 50 feet wired i wonder what this cold issue is? great gun just not for cold weather

 

Read a few pages back. I had the same issue and found out that the problem was with the nozzle. When cooled the nozzle would shrink and it would stop moving properly.

Either replace the nozzle with G36 type (cutting required) or sand/polish the brass nozzle of the cylider head as Wupjak did.

 

Deki

Edited by Deki
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I finally recieved my gun. the Star M249 MK II

I just love it, really great stuff.

 

Only downside is that a small piece of plastic broke of:

post-12294-1140963085_thumb.jpg

 

 

It came right out the box this way.

 

But still the gun is great, it shoots great, looks great.

I can't wait to test it on the field next week.

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11 volts sounds like a really bad idea, why would you need anything over a 9.6?

 

 

I am ordering my Star249 Wendsday, I have decided on the PARA version. My only remaining issue now is, will a 9.6v Nunchuck battery I had made for my UTG MP5 fit in the Box mag? Or will I need to order a Large type 9.6v from Cheapbatterypacks when I order the gun? Thanks alot-

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I finally recieved my gun. the Star M249 MK II

I just love it, really great stuff.

 

Only downside is that a small piece of plastic broke of:

post-12294-1140963085_thumb.jpg

It came right out the box this way.

 

But still the gun is great, it shoots great, looks great.

I can't wait to test it on the field next week.

 

What a shame that the piece was broken off. If it were me I would send it back and request a new gun.

 

It appears from your photo that the broken piece may prevent the magazine connector from properly locking in place. Is this the case? My connector snaps in place, locking on both sides securely. Looks to me like yours may not be able to lock in place properly, due to one side is missing.

The only problem I have had with my gun was on one occasion when it just died. Everything appeared to be OK, but I found that I had not snapped the connector in properly on both sides and the electrical connection was not making contact. I pushed the loose side in and snapped it tight, .......... gun started working properly again.

 

These guns cost a lot, and you really deserve to have an unbroken gun right out of the box.

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What a shame that the piece was broken off.  If it were me I would send it back and request a new gun.

 

It appears from your photo that the broken piece may prevent the magazine connector from properly locking in place. Is this the case? My connector snaps in place, locking on both sides securely. Looks to me like yours may not be able to lock in place properly, due to one side is missing.

The only problem I have had with my gun was on one occasion when it just died. Everything appeared to be OK, but I found that I had not snapped the connector in properly on both sides and the electrical connection was not making contact. I pushed the loose side in and snapped it tight, .......... gun started working properly again.

 

These guns cost a lot, and you really deserve to have an unbroken gun right out of the box.

 

I've mailed Safara airsoft (where I ordered the gun) about the piece that broke off, but so far I've not recieved an answer.

 

The magazine connector stays in place, but it can losen itself a bit. So I need to puch it back in sometimes.

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I am ordering my Star249 Wendsday, I have decided on the PARA version. My only remaining issue now is, will a 9.6v Nunchuck battery I had made for my UTG MP5 fit in the Box mag? Or will I need to order a Large type 9.6v from Cheapbatterypacks when I order the gun? Thanks alot-

It'll work, as long as it has a mini tamiya connector (if not, you'll need to make an adapter or change the connector on the gun). Space isn't a problem, in fact it will be pretty loose. You may want to stuff something in there to keep it from rattling around. Also keep in mind that you can use 1650mAh up fast in the M249, if you use the gun as intended. Though, it might be just enough to get through the whole box mag, or at least most of it. You probably should get a large high capacity battery when you can, depending on how you're going to be using the gun.

Edited by staticzero
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11 volts sounds like a really bad idea, why would you need anything over a 9.6?

The reason behind using the 11.1v is to go for the ROF, which if you think you had a bb hose using 9.6, the 11.1v will scream. Birddog mentioned his SAWs holding up to the 11.1v, but having experienced the stripped piston myself in another gun I'm hesitant to break anything in my new SAW right away.

 

Unfortunately, the voltage levels of lithiums are not as versatile as 1.2v NiCad/NiMh cells. Each lithium cell packs 3.7v which means you have a choice of 7.4 (2 cell) or 11.1 (3 cell) if you choose to use them in airsoft.

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I've mailed Safara airsoft (where I ordered the gun) about the piece that broke off, but so far I've not recieved an answer.

 

The magazine connector stays in place, but it can losen itself a bit. So I need to puch it back in sometimes.

 

I guess your good as long as it works, but it looks like that part should be easy to glue back on.

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It'll scream alright, as it blows itself into oblivion.

 

ROF is about 1200 rpm with a 9.6, do you really need anything higher? ask yourself is it really worth the risk?

Keep in mind the gun is designed to be used with an 8.4v battery. 11 volts is just begging for trouble. I've already broken my gearbox with a 9.6 and a PDI 150%, an thats not even a very big increase over stock performance.

 

maybe i just got unlucky, but i know that putting an 11v battery in any stock AEG will spell doom for the gearbox. If everything else holds up, the motor will live a very short life.

 

Whats wrong with using a ni-cad or a nihm??

Edited by WarMonger
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Well just received my m249 and straight away i have a problem, z1 have forgotten to put the box mag in the package, so i have a very nice m249 sitting here but without any means of using it, hooray.

 

Not overly concerned because they have informed me that they will send on at the next available moment. Until then i have nothing more to report apart from my misfortune plus a laugh i had to have once i noticed this.

 

 

Cheers

Dan

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Anyone having (or had) feed problems with their mag?

 

When test firing today, the mag wasn't feeding. The gun was firing, but the bb feed mechanism in the mag wasn't turning on, and I checked to make sure the mag was pushed all the way into the gun, but still nothing. After tinkering with it I concluded it has something to do with the four contact pins. The funny thing is when I slightly disengaged the left tab on the mag, the feed mechanism started working again.

 

I took the mag completely off and noticed some clear grease in the concave cup of the metal pins. Is the grease meant to help conductivity, or is it there for some other reason?

 

Anyway, I'd be curious to know if anyone is having mag feed problems.

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Hi guys,

 

Unfortunately my M249 is currently out of action, I originally received mine in November last year and until this weekend everything was working great.

 

Basically the box mag was not feeding the BB's into the Gun, box mag motor was not turning and after a small investigation. checked contacts/wiring etc and tested the box mag on another Star I can say that the actual problem appears to be with the gun itself. As far as I can make out the issue is some where in the trigger, as the piston fires with no problems. All I can think of is that there's a problem with a contact for the box mag.

 

Any way its being sent back to Z1 tomorrow so hopefully have it back so.

 

I'll let you know what the problem was once Z1 have looked into it.

 

 

Derfal5x5

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Each lithium cell packs 3.7v which means you have a choice of 7.4 (2 cell) or 11.1 (3 cell) if you choose to use them in airsoft.

 

A Li-Poly 2 cell pack has a rated voltage output of 7.4 volts but in reality is 8.5 volts +/- 1 volt. I have yet to see one with less than 8.3, which is perfect for stock or lightly upgraded replicas.

 

Anyone who races 10th scale touring cars competitively will tell you Li-Poly is much more versatile than NiMH or NiCad. LiPoly packs use 3.7 volt cells which are somewhat limiting in their granularity of output, but they have capacities in excess of 6000mah. They're also relatively inexpensive in lower capacities, with a 3000mah pack being had for $50 USD or less.

 

Assembled LiPoly packs are flat & rectangular which limits their use to certain physical configurations, but they're still much smaller than a stick Sub-C. I've got several LiPoly 4500mah packs that are slightly larger than a pack of cigarettes.

 

The only guns I have that won't use LiPoly are my CA CQB's. Everything else gets LiPoly in 7.4 or 11.1 configurations. SAWs, SG1, M14s, G36, they all run well (and long) with LiPoly.

Edited by birddog
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11 volts sounds like a really bad idea, why would you need anything over a 9.6?

 

Your statement that it sounds like a bad idea leads me to believe you've never actually tried it. I have, and on a stock or upgraded SAW, a high-voltage, high-capacity LiPoly pack provides a high ROF and a long run time in a small package.

 

A 7.4v or 11.1v LiPoly pack fits perfectly in the foregrip of my CA PARA and will run all day with a flat discharge curve (and I have to add the CA 249 is light years better in durability, ease of upgrading, & overall quality to a STAR M249 - yep, I said it : ).

 

Keep in mind the gun is designed to be used with an 8.4v battery. 11 volts is just begging for trouble. I've already broken my gearbox with a 9.6 and a PDI 150%, an thats not even a very big increase over stock performance.

 

maybe i just got unlucky, but i know that putting an 11v battery in any stock AEG will spell doom for the gearbox. If everything else holds up, the motor will live a very short life.

 

I keep hearing that and used to believe it, but a lot of guys at my RC car track run high voltage packs on can motors and get quite a bit of life out of the motors.

 

Part of the misconception that AEG motors are a limiting factor with higher voltages is the fact that most players neglect to properly maintain their motors. Sure, they wrench on their gearboxes, but many players never consider the affect proper maintenance can have on the life & performance of the motor and gun. And the motor is the power plant that runs the whole show.

 

Players at my field have been using 10.8~12volt packs in stock & upgraded guns for a while now with little to no ill effects. Sure, they're going to have some accelerated wear, but who cares? I want to squeeze every bit of performance I can out of my replicas and upping the voltage and output current is one of the best ways to do it up to a certain point. And it takes me 2 seconds on the trigger to spit as many BB's as your 5 second burst : )

 

Regarding the affect of high voltage and the resultant increase in RPM of the gears, since I started work-hardening and breaking in my gearboxes before installing the springs, I have had no issues with gear failures while using high voltage packs. None. I have had a piston failure but that's it.

 

An example is my stock CA Para. I run a 11.1 volt LiPoly in it with no problems. The only difference being that it's been reshimmed and lubed with good lubricants as opposed to a gun that's been pulled out of the box and shot as-is. It runs like it has a HSG in it and runs well. When the motor or gears go, I'll replace them. Parts wear out anyway so I consider it part of the cost of ownership.

 

Remember, these guns aren't ran continuously like an RC motor. And I think in some cases where high voltage packs are used, gearbox failures can be attributed to poor quality upgrades using substandard parts or poor practices.

 

FYI....I use a FET for high voltage applications where the guns are upgONe raded.

Edited by birddog
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